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Audio/Headunit: Frequently Asked Questions! Have A Question? Look Here First!
For anyone living in Central Florida (or willing to drive), I'd be happy to give you face-to-face help with your car audio problems/upgrades. PM me.
Speaker sizes & specs: base radio:
Front mounting depth (Base and Bose system): 3" safe, about 3.125" to glass (distance to window glass. deeper speakers can probably be mounted with a baffle) What parts can I replace? (Bose and non-Bose): Non-Bose system: Anything. Any of the speakers or the headunit may be replaced with any aftermarket equipment without any special precautions. Bose system: The front tweeters, center speaker, rear 6x9's and headunit may be be replaced with any aftermarket equipment. The front 9" woofers in the doors and the rear Bose amp cannot be replaced alone with aftermarket. Head unit: Stock car harness is J-01:
- Common problems with the Metra kit Clock does not keep time, runs slow, runs fast: This is a common problem that Metra acknowledges. The firmware of the axxess box needs to be updated. This can be done by sending the Axxess box to Metra for them to update free of charge, or you can purchase the small update cable online and update the firmware yourself. However, the cable is known to run about 50 bucks. Older versions of the Metra kit had a poor piano black finish on the faceplate. Here's a picture. As you can see, the finish has pretty bad orange peel. This was corrected in their newer kits. No model numbers were changed so we have no way of knowing how old the kit is until you buy it and see for yourself. Many users have reported problems with various features of their HVAC systems after installation of this kit. Sometimes it's the rear defroster, or recirculation, or A/C button, etc etc. No end-all fix has been found. Some people solve their problem by simply exchanging the Axxess box for a new one. Others seem to have their problem fixed with a simple firmware update (explained above). And still others just live with it. - How to remove headunit. Headunit removal. Obviously ignore the IceLink stuff if you're not installing an ipod module. Another headunit walkthrough Basic Installation: Amp installation:
How to properly splice existing factory wires. Those replacing factory speakers READ ME!!! Front speaker installation:
Door/system wire colors:
- I want more bass. What are my options?
-List of RX8 specific subwoofer boxes - Adding an aftermarket amp to the factory headunit (Bose and without Bose) / What is a line output converter (LOC)? So you want to install an aftermarket amplifier, but your factory radio does not have RCA connections. What do you do? You use a line output converter. Also commonly called a source level converter. Features and build quality aside, all line output converters (LOC) accept a regular speaker wire input and convert it into an RCA connection. Now it's as simple as plugging your RCA cables into the LOC and then into your amplifier. But which LOC should I buy? What's the difference? Basically, we can split LOC into two categories: powered and non-powered. Powered LOC require a separate +12V source be ran to it for power. Non-powered does not require this. A majority of LOC on the market are the simple non-powered design. If you walk into a car audio store and ask for a line output converter, you'll be getting a non-powered one. They are cheap and are generally effective. Prices usually range from about $15-$35. Here is an example of one. http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...42LOC80-F.jpeg As you can see, it just requires that you splice into your existing factory speaker wires to "hi-jack" the signal, to which it converts into RCA connections on the other side. Almost every LOC will have two or more potentiometers on it to allow the user to increase or decrease the signal strength being output to the amp. For those users only looking to add subwoofers to their factory stereo, these non-powered LOC's are the perfect choice. For a slightly more elaborate setup involving replacement of the factory speakers/amp, using a powered LOC is recommended. These quality products generally offer many useful features such as adjustable crossover points, equalizing options and signal summing. The RCA signal output from these are generally much stronger than what a non-powered LOC is capable of. Here is an example: http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/pro...LC6iG-f-1.jpeg The above picture is the Audiocontrol LC6i. Some other options are the Rockford Fosgate 360.1 or 360.2 and the JL Audio Cleansweep. For those with the Bose system, it is to the users advantage to "hi-jack" their signal prior to entering the Bose amplifier in the rear of the car. The Bose amplifier adds some wild EQ curves to an otherwise smooth output from the Bose headunit. For those just adding subwoofers, this many not be an issue. However those replacing all Bose speakers and using all aftermarket amplifiers will want to have an even frequency curve to input into their aftermarket amps. The very best way to do this is to purchase one of the powered LOC mentioned above and tap into your factory speaker wires prior to them entering the Bose amp. Most of those LOC will "add" or "sum" all the signals on each speaker wire together, then split them up into separate RCA connections for Front, Rear, and Subwoofer out. For those people using a non-powered LOC, it is best to tap AFTER the Bose amp. The signal coming from the stock Bose headunit is low level. It is simply not strong enough to use without a powered LOC. A great thread discussing this So to recap, powered LOCs tap in before the Bose amp. Non-powered LOCs tap after the Bose amp. How to properly splice existing factory wires. Those tapping into Bose wiring READ ME!!! - iPod integration modules available. Many of the following modules require that your factory headunit's firmware be greater than 9.55. To find out which revision your Mazda RX-8 has, make sure the radio (FM) is turned on, then press and hold "TEXT." Then, also press and hold "1" at the same time for a few more seconds. The LCD should then report your firmware version. Walkthrough on how to install ANY of these integration modules XCarLink (formally AudioLink) = Retains steering wheel controls, charges iPod, options available for USB, mini-jack, video, bluetooth, and iPod connections. No song data displayed on RX8 readout above headunit. Will not work with below 9.55, 9.81, or 10.01 firmware. Dension IceLink DICE Electronics = Pretty much identical to the XCarLink but the R2 kit advertises that it will show song data on the RX8's screen above the headunit. Axxess = Biggest advantage of this module is that it connects via the MiniDisc/Tape port on the rear of the factory headunit vice using the Satellite Radio port that every other one uses. So if you have the Satellite Radio option, you can now have iPod too! Displays song data on RX8 display. Retains Steering wheel controls, etc. Neo Prolink GROM Audio = Identical to the XCarLink. They also offer a USB style connector. Mazda DOES offer an iPod integration kit very similar to all of these. AuxMod will work with any firmware version CD hack - iPod mod will work with any firmware version Beefed up version of CD hack - iPod mod to include more control and works with any firmware version. |
- Making adapter plates for front Bose woofers
The front door speakers on RX8's equipped with the Bose system are 9" woofers. They are also very shallow for a woofer of that diameter. This is a very uncommon shape for aftermarket replacements. It is recommended that one install a 6.5" component set in it's place. The 6.5" woofer will install in place of the 9" woofer and the tweeter will replace the factory Bose tweeter. Adapter plates must be made in order to mount the new, smaller, woofer in the door. DO NOT make the adapter rings out of wood. Moisture will enter the door panel and warp/ruin them over time. Plexiglass or Lexan is recommended. These items can be found at Home Depot or Lowes. They are commonly sold in the window department. Do not attempt to use the thinnest sheet they sell. (0.094 I believe) That stuff chips, cracks and crumbles to bits between installation and daily vibration abuse. The next thickness up is about 0.224. This is much stronger and highly recommended. Once you have the proper materials, it's pretty obvious what we're trying to do. You need to cut the product into a circular shape roughly 9" in diameter so it can be mounted using the screw holes the 9" woofer used. Then cut a smaller hole in the center of it just large enough to mount your new 6.5" woofer in place. Measure twice and cut once. I found a jigsaw to be easy to work with. Use a fine tooth blade. It helps greatly to slowly pour ice water over the blade/cut as you are cutting. This keeps the blade and plastic cool and helps prevent the plastic from melting and rejoining right behind the cut you just made. When drilling holes, start with the smallest drill bit you have as a pilot. Do a quality job the first time so you won't be tearing the door apart again later. - Front Bose speakers cutting out? No bass from Bose system? DIY: Bose speakers in the doors not working? $1.67 relay fix. - Can I install the factory navigation system from another RX8 into my non-navi RX8? Is it possible? Yes, it has been done. Is it worth the labor? Absolutely not. The factory navigation is dated and never was as user friendly as anything aftermarket. In addition, the installation of the navigation pop-up screen, gps antenna, navigation dvd player, touchpad, wiring harnesses, etc makes it a lose/lose. It's simply not worth all the effort and cost, to install an inferior navigation system. It is recommended to simply replace the factory headunit with an aftermarket double-din unit with built in navigation or purchase an outboard stand alone GPS such as one made by Garmin or Magellan. - I removed and re-installed my factory headunit and now certain buttons/amber display doesn't work! The actual face of the factory headunit is a separate piece from the actual CD player hardware. Like aftermarket faceplates, the connection is made with a set of male/female push pins. If, while pushing on the center of the faceplate, your display/buttons work again, this is certainly your problem. If pushing on the face of the headunit doesn't help, it is still advised to remove the headunit again and ensure the faceplate is tightly secured to the CD hardware. The top amber colored display gets its info from a ribbon cable. This is another thing that is commonly bumped lose during headunit removal. Remove the headunit and A/C vents and ensure the ribbon cable is secure. - What are some recommendations on brand names? This list is by no means designed to be all inclusive, but rather to help those that may be just starting out or have been out of the hobby for a number of years. Also, some brand names make many lines of equipment from low-end to high-end. Price being your big clue obviously. Additionally, some brands may produce one piece of equipment very well and other pieces not so much. Great headunits for examples, but low quality speakers or amps. I'll try to note those where I can. Though everyone may not agree on my suggestions, this is just a ballpark. Top tier: Focal, Diamond, Rainbow, Morel, CDT Audio, Arc Audio, Boston Acoustics, MMats, Zapco, USAmps, Polk, RE Audio, JL Audio, Image Dynamics, JBL, Infinity, Digital Designs Mid tier: Diamond, CDT Audio, Boston Acoustics, Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, Kenwood, Pioneer, Sony (headunits), Polk, RE Audio, JL Audio, Bazooka (subwoofers), Image Dynamics, JBL, Infinity, Soundstream, MB Quart Bottom tier (avoid): Jenson, Pyle, Pyramid, Rockwood, Dual, Sony (everything except headunits), Visionik, Volfenhag, Crunch, Soundstorm, Lightening Audio, Bazooka (everything except subwoofers), Boss, XO Vision, Audiovox, MTX (sorry, it's true), Eclipse (sorry, it's true) - Satellite radio connection options for the stock headunit
- What's a CarPC? How can I install one in my RX8? A CarPC or Carputer is simply a custom computer that one builds and integrates into the car to control all A/V functions and possibly engine parameter monitoring. The main computer is usually hidden away in the trunk, glove box or under the dash and the monitor is either mounted in the factory navigation location or using the Metra headunit replacement kit.
-What gauge power wire should I use with my aftermarket amp? Before selecting what gauge power wire you should use, it is important to understand that not all wire is created equal. Generic brands generally use thicker insulation and less copper to make it appear to be the same size, when in fact it's not. Also note that some use a large mix of aluminum and copper (maybe 90%-10% mix) rather than pure copper (98+%). This lowers the total amperage carrying capacity of the wire greatly. Now, we need to calculate the maximum possible current draw of the amplifier(s) in your system. Most every aftermarket amplifier has one or more fuses along the side of it. Add up the fuse values for all amplifiers in your system. For example, your subwoofer amp has two 40 amp fuses and your cabin speaker amp has three 20 amp fuses. Your total maximum possible current draw amount is 140 amps. Take that number, along with the total length of the main power wire run, and find your wire gauge on the table below. (note this is for 100% copper wire. If your wire is mixed, bump up one size) It is also important to use the same size ground wire and you use for power wire. http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/6202/71193402.jpg -Where should I tap into in my fuse box to get power? https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1285507866 - How to remove the rear seats : https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1244834808 Pull straight up on the front of the bottom cushion (point A). Sometimes it's a little stiff, but give it a solid jerk upward. Now remove the bottom cushions from the car. Remove the two bolts from the bottom of each seat back (total of four bolts). Push the seat back straight up towards the car's headliner. As you can see in the above pic, each seat back has small little "hooks" that clip in similar in the way the seat bottom clipped in. Once they're unclipped, remove the seat back from the car. Install in reverse order. Ensure both seat parts and actually clipped down into place. Give them a solid push downward until you hear/feel the snap. - How can I disassemble my cloth seats? - What Optima battery should I use? If you want to install an Optima battery (red or yellow top), the Optima 35R is the correct size to use with the RX8. You will also need the height adapter tray that is often included with the battery (although I've seen them sold without the tray too). The "R" stands for reverse. Meaning the side post terminals are on the opposite side from normal. Without the reverse terminals, you would be forced to extend your battery cables in order to connect them to the battery. Although some owners have recently reported success with the non-reverse Optima red top. The yellow top is rated at 650 CCA and the red top is rated at 720 CCA. The red top is a high quality battery that is maintenance free, vibration resilient, and can be mounted in any orientation. The yellow offers these same features, but also has a deep cycle ability. This means that it can be drained completely dead and then recharged without any adverse effects to the battery. This can be done repeatedly. In more common terms, the battery has no memory effect like most other car batteries do. If you plan on playing your system/having electronics on without the car running, by all means, the yellow top is the better option. If you never have any electronics on once the car is turned off, you will not notice any advantages of the yellow top over the red top. In fact, the red top offers a higher CCA rating and is less expensive. It would be the better choice in this situation. - Hardwiring radar detector / Mounting radar detectors Essentially you're just wiring +12V accessory (power only when key is on) and ground to the radar detector. One note though, some radar detectors run off +12VDC and others off +5VDC. You should either buy the hardwire kit specially made for your specific radar detector OR you can wire your ACC and ground connections directly to the cigarette lighter plug the radar came with. +12V on the nipple or tip of the plug and ground to the outer pressure plates on the sides. Stash it all under the dash and run the radar power wire to wherever you have the radar mounted. The cigarette lighter plug steps the +12 down to +5V. It's exactly the same as if it were plugged into the cigarette lighter. How to hardwire your radar detector and mount near center windshield Country Joy Crafts super solid radar detector mount. There are two mounting sizes offered. RX8 owners have debated about the correct sizes for certain year RX8's. But it IS confirmed that Mazda has used both size mirror posts in the RX8. So you will need to measure your rear-view mirror post with a tape measure and find out yourself. Blendmount is anther option for mounting your radar detector. - Headlights dimming with bass? Charging system upgrades/ High Output Alternators The stock alternator is rated at 100amps. When shopping for a high output alternator, it is of the utmost importance to find out the amperage output AT IDLE. I have run across many alternators that are labeled as high output, which in fact are, but only at 2k RPM and above. While sitting at idle they actually output LESS amperage then the factory alternator! A complete waste of money for the car audio world if your headlights dim everytime you're stopped at a streetlight. Irragi Alternators the RX8 is not specifically listed in these, but the owner has been contacted and says they can make them. Price quoted was $419-$459 for 180-220amp. I have personally used their alternators in past vehicles of mine with many years of great success. Another option for the 8 is the ProPower alternator. The group buy may be over, but the alternators are still being made. So it's another option. Ohio Generator also has been making quality H/O alternators for years. Give them a call and I'm 100% positive they will be able to provide you with an alternator that will fit into the RX8. - SAFELY installing remote start on a manual trans RX8 AND operating with factory keyfob! - Auto window up/down with the factory keyfob - Installing sound deadening in the RX8 - How to remove door panels - How to make your windows have one-touch down AND UP! - No heat? No A/C? This may be your fix! - How to remove your headliner - Navi System FAQ - Replacing interior and exterior bulbs with LEDs - How to replace red LEDs in factory headunit Another one - Replace the red LEDs behind your factory dash cluster - DIY Footwell LEDs for $10! - How to code a NEW KEYFOB yourself! - How to fix center armrest slanted/broken button |
reserved for future postings due to character limit
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Subscribed for later so I don't lose it. I'm going to bed now but I want to read this later. Thanks for the write-up seems very informative.
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to get the firmware version of my 2004 RX8, (my version is 9.53) I press the text button along with the "1" button. Are there any other hidden features of the audio system? I tried pressing text button as well as "3" button and the display changed and caused my audio volume to shoot up... Not sure what function invoked... Please help
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Ex son in law stole the cable that connects MP3 player/iPod....where can I get a replacement?
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w00t- excellent write up! :bigok:
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Hey guys been looking around for the answer to my question but can't seem to find it. I have a navone LOC and found all the info needed on tapping the speaker wires but can't find any info on where to tap the power and ground for the LOC ? Getting ready to do my install today but need my question answered first. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Get it from anywhere you want. Under "Amp installation" above, there is a section for remote turn on leads. These are simply wires that are hot only when the key is in ACC position. If you don't have the Bose system, then you're left with the rear cig lighter. You can get the ground from the cig lighter if you want, or just chassis it out.
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Thanks for the response, I have the Bose system....can I tap into the Bose amp wires for the remote, power or ground ?
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Did you read under "Amp installation" like I said? Must not have...
Also note that the pink/black and yellow/white wires on the Bose amp inputs are hot only when ignition is on. |
One more question, are the rear speaker wires that are behind the back seats preamp ? Or can I tap into those ? Seems hard to tap into the wires coming out of the speakers since they are pretty small.
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Does anyone know the dimensions of the bose amp? I would go out and measure them, but right now I'm living at my house near my school's campus and do not even have a ruler here :/
I plan to get an amp that will be able to be mounted in place of the bose amp. |
Originally Posted by Stars25
(Post 4173278)
Does anyone know the dimensions of the bose amp? I would go out and measure them, but right now I'm living at my house near my school's campus and do not even have a ruler here :/
I plan to get an amp that will be able to be mounted in place of the bose amp. https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/subwoofer-enclosure-build-inside-213721/page5/ |
Thanks!
When I install my Kappa four in place of the bose amp, would I just be able to use the power, ground, and remote turn on wires that are already there? I know the Kappa four "says" 4-gauge wire is required for installation but I figured I could just get away with not having to run all new wires. |
Unfortunately no. You must run a much heavier gauge power and ground wire to the amp. Factory Bose wiring is, what, 12 gauge??! I would recommend just running the 4 gauge and be done with it. Here's a great website for wiring.
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Does anyone have any detailed info on the H/F Tel Mute pin? Any voltage or signal info that is transmitted to the factory Bose radio would be great. The aftermarket radio has a push button switch that has to be used for the pust to talk features of the radio. It is a simple switch with two wires. One for positive and one for ground I would assume. I am researching the radio side to make sure. Just wanting to utilize that button if I can. I don't think Hands Free button is recognized by an Axxess but could be wrong.
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Guess maybe I'm not understanding exactly what you're trying to do, or what you're really asking. Are you asking which wire in the stock harness is for the Tel Mute? Or what type of signal travels on that wire?
Any any aftermarket radio that has a button you push, and then speak certain commands, should mute the music by itself. |
Originally Posted by firebirdude
(Post 4176906)
Guess maybe I'm not understanding exactly what you're trying to do, or what you're really asking. Are you asking which wire in the stock harness is for the Tel Mute? Or what type of signal travels on that wire?
Any any aftermarket radio that has a button you push, and then speak certain commands, should mute the music by itself. I want to use the factory push to talk button on the steering wheel instead of the aftermarket remote button. I thought that that wire would be the H/F Tel Mute, pin L for the push to talk for a bluetooth connected phone. Am I wrong with this? If it is that pin, I am after what signal or voltage is at pin L or exactley what it does. If this is not the ptt, is there a pin for that feature that tells the bluetooth to answer the phone? It appears that my head unit, a Kenwood 9980HD, looks for a ground when you push their external push button. I have yet to verify this myself or with anyone of knowledge but am in the process. |
Now this is hiw all threads/post should be Excellent job OP!
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Im new to this thing, how do you post in the archive for everyone to see. i Have a question about my RX8 but dont know where to go to post it?:Drooling_
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First, you use the search feature to see if your question has been answered previously. If not AND it's not answered in this thread, you click the "new thread" button right above the link for this thread.
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Originally Posted by bhammer
(Post 4176915)
Sorry, it was perfectly clear to me when I posted it. :naughty: Let's see if this helps you any with my search.
I want to use the factory push to talk button on the steering wheel instead of the aftermarket remote button. I thought that that wire would be the H/F Tel Mute, pin L for the push to talk for a bluetooth connected phone. Am I wrong with this? If it is that pin, I am after what signal or voltage is at pin L or exactley what it does. If this is not the ptt, is there a pin for that feature that tells the bluetooth to answer the phone? It appears that my head unit, a Kenwood 9980HD, looks for a ground when you push their external push button. I have yet to verify this myself or with anyone of knowledge but am in the process. Okay, I have done some more digging in to this. Our steering wheel controller is a resistive type. The exteranal controllers are looking for a certain resistance. I sent my DMM and oscope out for calibration right after I set my gains. I have to get them calibrated annually. They should be completed early next week. When I get them back, I'll get the specific resistance of each. I am sure there is a way to be able to look at a resistance and with a certain point, set a switch to ground. More digging and then I'll bet Paimon can help explain what I would need to do. More to come. |
[*]Both HUs output differential speaker-level signals. Do not hook the HU signal directly to an amp's line-level/high-level inputs. Instead, connect to a line output converter first. Otherwise, frying of HU may occur.
Hi Firebirddude, Thanks for the great posts. I have a question, you mention above not to hook up the prebose straight to an amp. but in the thread https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...s-19906/page3/ G8rboy runs for 5 years without any LOC and had no issues. Do you really think not usings an LOC is an issue? Also the ZX kicker line of amps boasts "Differential inputs also make KICKER amps compatible with any factory or aftermarket radio." Do you think you would be able to use these without an LOC. Thanks. |
Originally Posted by ChikaFreak
(Post 4322437)
I have a question, you mention above not to hook up the prebose straight to an amp. but in the thread https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...s-19906/page3/ G8rboy runs for 5 years without any LOC and had no issues. Do you really think not usings an LOC is an issue?
I would like to point out this post by G8rboy:
Originally Posted by G8rboy
(Post 1167679)
Yes, that's the way you should do it, but I didn't... I just made an RCA-to-line-level cable by cutting a standard RCA cable pair in half and stripping the wires, and used those stripped ends to tap into the pre-amp speaker signals coming from the head unit, and plugged the RCA's on the other end into my amp. It's been working for my Alpine for almost two years now...
I have, however, done several installs in 8's. I have tried connecting the LOC before the Bose amp, listened to it for about 30 minutes, then moved the LOC to after the Bose amp. Much louder. I didn't notice any problems with blending/adjustment that G8rboy mentions. Though he's a big proponent of the Audiopilot, which I hate. So maybe that's the difference there.
Originally Posted by ChikaFreak
(Post 4322437)
Also the ZX kicker line of amps boasts "Differential inputs also make KICKER amps compatible with any factory or aftermarket radio." Do you think you would be able to use these without an LOC.
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Thanks firebirddude,
I have been reading your posts around the forum and you are a really smart guy and this forum really is A+ because of guys like you :bowdown:. I dont know a ton about car audio but i love to DIY and I love to learn new skills. One thing i do know about sigals and audio is that the more processing etc. that you do the more likely you are to get quality issues. So by cutting out using a LOC i am just trying to cut out "over processing" and buying something i dont need. For now I am just looking to add a 10 or 12 to the bose system (who knows what the future will hold) Do you have any amp speaker combos that you would recommend given your professional car audio status? I read somewhere about your idea to buy a box off ebay and properly tune and port it. Did you ever do that? Sounds like an interesting project to me. Thanks much! |
Preciate the kind words. I do what I can with what I know. I'm no guru, but have done my time installing car audio professionally. And I always keep up on the latest and greatest stuff out there. Just a hobby.
I actually did make the ported box. I bought the Zen Enclosures box with one 12" hole on the left side. Then I bought a huge 4 1/2" hole saw, cut a hole in the right side and installed some 4" PVC. I painted the inside black to smooth out the look a little (sorry no pics). Worked pretty well, but the expense added up. The hole saw was like $25 and 4" PVC isn't cheap either. All in all, I probably wouldn't recommend it. There's just other easier/cleaner options. I used it for a little over a year, then bought the two 4080 boxes. Much cleaner look. More storage space. There's actually an eBay seller selling ported RX8 boxes now. I have no clue how they perform. Some crude calculations shows a reasonable tuning frequency(~28Hz), but I'd be worried about port noise with those tiny ports. My recommendations are going to depend on your budget and personal preferences. If you just want to increase the amount of low-end from the Bose system quickly and cheaply, I'd probably recommend an amplified sub system, such as the Bazooka tube. They're cheap, clean, easy to install, easy to temporary remove for the track and add plenty of bump. For 200 bucks, it's a solid offering. If you're a bit of a basshead and want more than that, a pair of 12"s it is. Which subs should you buy? Which amp should you buy? All depends on your budget. The bare minimum you should be looking to spend on a setup like this is roughly $400 + labor. A solid mid-range setup would be more in the $600 range. Of course, the sky is the limit, so think about where you want to head long-term. |
Mazda RX-8 DVD Player, Mazda RX-8 Navigation System, Mazda RX-8 GPS DVD, good choice for your car
I was wondering if anyone here has had some experience with this one? does this need the axxess box that a Metra Kit comes with? this seems to good to be true, any help would be appreciated |
Thanks for all the info firebirdude, you've saved me hours of searching around with the information you've provided!
I was wondering however, what sort of options I had if I wanted to upgrade the Bose system on a Series II, while still keeping the head unit? My rear amp recently stopped working and it's been tough finding a replacement, but I'm unsure if I should actually replace that one part, or the entire system itself. Although if possible, I'd like to keep the headunit. |
Thanks firebirddude,
When using second skin on say a door, is it better to use a door kit (single sheet) or to use multiple smaller sheets in a bulk pack? I assume that ease of install would be the smaller sheets, but is there a noticeable difference in sound quality? Also NVX vs. Dynamat vs. GTMAT vs. FatMat; is one better? |
Get small packages and use sparingly. The recommendation from the pros, and I'm not talking about the BestBuy guys, is cover 25% with a skin to stop resonance. More is not better. Take a look at Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information and do some reading. You can also head off to DIYMobileAudio and read. I have a complete build thread and I cover skins and sound deadening as well. It's here on RX8 as well as at Hammer's 2009 Mazda RX-8 Build - DIYMA Car Audio Forum
I'll have to go back and look at the final results but I was able to reduce cabin noise 7dB. If you are looking for road noise reduction, you are looking for CCF and MLC |
Though I think the whole 25% rule is a little extreme, I understand the theory behind it. I don't think I'd use the term "more is not better", but rather beyond that is simply a diminishing return. Valid points are raised in regards to adding a ton of unnecessary weight or making specific areas of the vehicle hard to access. I just don't want to promote the thoughts that too much MLC is exactly counterproductive.
I'll post more later. Gotta run. |
Factory Navigation install
Hey guys,
Anyone have a wire diagram for an 04 8? The navigation system isn't working adn I think it has something to do with the other owner. The previous owner put in a cable for an iPod/phone/Pad/etc. with an on off switch. I don't have an i products anymore and want to see if I can get the Nav working again. Any ideas how to test it or see if it just might be some re-wiring? I am a novice when it comes to audio installing, but can figure things out pretty quick. Thanks for any guidance!! |
hoping someone has come across this issue before.
I have a issue with my stereo install as to subwoofers barely pumping or moving. I know everythings hooked up fine so for me id think everyone that has done an install usually runs into this issue but didnt care to share. (Or i couldnt find searching) Ive noticed from transfering my system from my old car to this car there seems to be an issue with how much sound is being delivered to the sub-woofer. Ive tried different RCA's & their connected to the SW port and the settings are correct within the deck (from what i know) Ive double checked everything & i keep coming back to how somehow the stock stereo with bose amps is too powerfull I think. My system pumped hard in my old car & now in this car it will barely pump at high volume & gains way up. i have an Alpine IDA-X305 ( http://support.alpine-usa.com/produc...DA-X305_EN.pdf ) Im not sure what im doing wrong but i know for sure everythings hooked up correct. One thing ive noticed is soon as I turn the volume knob theres decent high level sound coming from the bose speakers. In my older car the volume had to be a 1/4 up for the volume level to match what the RX8's seeing. any suggestions are much appreciated. Thanks Edit: I connected another car up to mine. Ran just speaker wires off the amp = Working fine. Ran just RCA cables from the other cars deck = Working fine. Has to be my Deck. OR something to do with the Bose stereo |
In the future, make a new topic. Rather than posting in our FAQ thread...
Sounds like you're well on your way troubleshooting. You've narrowed it to the headunit. Ensure the RCAs are connected to the SW RCA output (the bottom pair on your specific headunit, if I remember right). Make sure the RCA output is set properly on the headunit (turned on, crossover, etc). That's all there is to it man. The Bose system has absolutely zero to do with your sub amp. You have an aftermarket headunit supplying an aftermarket signal to an aftermarket amp which pushes an aftermarket subwoofer. The Bose system is out of the equation for the subwoofer. |
thanks for the info, going to have to look into that damn deck some more.
i appreciate people that have knowledge & help others. & sorry for the post in here. Usually people get shit on by the lifers on the forum so i was scared to make another topic. rx8 owners must become moody down the road. :) |
My 8 has the stock Bose System, and I was looking to upgrade. I received a quote from a professional car audio specialist that told me a good option to improve the quality of my sound was to replace the front 9" speakers in the doors. However, you said that this cannot be done. Is this so called "specialist" not as professional as I thought, or is there a way to actually replace the front 9" speakers?
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If you'll read, you'll note that the factory 9" speakers are 0.5ohm. The vast majority of aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm, some being 2 ohm. Regardless, the increase in impedance to the factory Bose amp means about 1/4 the power output, best case. Though maybe he's thinking he can install a pair of 8" woofers in there that have dual 2 ohm coils (few and far between, but just what if). Well that's still a 1 ohm final load and then you're going to run into SERIOUS depth issues. Your "specialist" evidently doesn't specialize in the RX8.
If you're looking for a basic upgrade without ripping out the entire Bose system, either replace only the factory headunit or search Jedi's stereo upgrade (Replacing rear 6x9's, front tweeters, and adding a real subwoofer). |
Thanks a lot! I was about ready to take my "specialists" advice, but thanks to you I just saved myself $700+!
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I live in Central Florida. If you, or anyone else reading this, wants face-to-face help, PM me. I'll also put this up in the first post.
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Sorry to bring up an old thread but I'm really struggling here after countless nights of searching and reading.
I have no headunit at all but want to power my factory amp ONLY when the key is turned to accessories. If I was to connect for example an iPod directly via Line out to RCA in to the speaker wires that were originally going in to the back of the headunit via harness. Would that signal be enough to power the amp? My setup will be... Bluetooth Receiver (Constantly on and power via cigarette lighter when ignition is on.) --> RCA/Phono Connections to Speaker harness that used to connect to the old headunit --> factory bose amp --> factory bose speakers. |
Theoretically it can be done, sound quality will be sub-par. Also RCA's are not needed.
Still waiting for someone to show me where everyone is thinking the Bose amp receives its signal from RCA's Bose amp uses high output inputs (aka a direct connection to a single output from the head unit via the speaker wires in the radio wiring harness) RCA's are low level outputs, they are common in the aftermarket but unless you get a top dollar (audiophile quality) receiver RCA's just can't swing the appropriate rail amplitudes on the OP AMP. Thusly increasing interference and signal distortion Theoretically you will need to power the remote wire located in the factory wiring harness. From there you will need to take the 3.5mm headphone jack and splice the stereo signal into the speaker wires you want to power. The more wires you connect the lower output you will receive out of the speakers. I doubt it will be very loud, and it might not work at all. As the typical output for an IPod/IPhone is in mA. You may need a signal amplifier in between the two components. It can be done but you will need to research the appropriate components needed. It will be much easier and better quality if you just purchase a receiver. |
1 Attachment(s)
Thanks for the quick response!
I'm wondering if I've worded it wrong or used the correct terms. Here is what I have and was planning to connect to the corresponding Left Rear, Left Front, Right Rear, Right Front wires which used to plug in to the original headunit. Attachment 288794 Am I correct in saying that all I'd need to do is connect the remote wire that used to go in to the back of the headunit in to a 12v source that only comes on when the key is at accessories? If this was the case, and the ipod was left in the car playing music but the ignition was turned off. Would this be a drain on the car battery and cause the amp to stay on even with the ignition completely off? Cheers, Danny |
Yes, the remote turns on the amp. Thusly if the remote is not turned on the amp will not be drawing power. Meaning you can supply any signal you want to the amp without any inverse effects on your battery.
You will need a signal amplifier as your device will not be able to provide a strong enough signal to the amp. You will need a small power amplifier. I have no idea what would fit your application, as I have not researched it. |
Any idea on how high of a signal I need? If I send too high of a signal will I fry the factory amp?
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Like I said you will need to do a lot of research, and if you don't have a good understanding of electrical and audio principals then this is discouraged.
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Originally Posted by bhammer
(Post 4427174)
Get small packages and use sparingly. The recommendation from the pros, and I'm not talking about the BestBuy guys, is cover 25% with a skin to stop resonance. More is not better. Take a look at Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information and do some reading. You can also head off to DIYMobileAudio and read. I have a complete build thread and I cover skins and sound deadening as well. It's here on RX8 as well as at Hammer's 2009 Mazda RX-8 Build - DIYMA Car Audio Forum
I'll have to go back and look at the final results but I was able to reduce cabin noise 7dB. If you are looking for road noise reduction, you are looking for CCF and MLC Here is the link to my Protege5 build log with SDS: SDS install log on the SSA Mazda - Build Logs - SSA Car Audio Forum |
Originally Posted by Astral
(Post 1090774)
How to tap into accessory plug[/url]. (The Bose amp has no remote turn-on available, only constant battery voltage.)
I have removed my headunit completely and now my amp doesn't turn on. It still shows the 12V constant from the battery but it isn't turning on with ACC. Is this because it only turns on when it receives a speaker level signal? |
Who are you quoting?
Thats not even from this thread. YES! the Bose amp has a remote, anyone who tells you differently needs to seriously consider removing themselves from this forum |
Sorry, I have about twenty thousand threads open about this as I'm stuck trying to power this Bose amp without a head unit. I had the original thread open (of which the quote is from) too from before it got swapped over to this sticky. Sorry about that.
Does anybody know which wire going in to the Bose amp is the 12v remote wire? I've obviously located the constant 12V White/Red wire. Without a head unit it's difficult to locate the remote wire as the remote signal goes through the head unit (which I don't have.) |
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