Attack

Hi Folks -

Just finished installing the V1 wired directly into the RX-8 and thought I'd share instructions. This message will contain the written instructions and pictures will follow.


This is really a pretty simple procedure, took about 30 minutes without directions and me figuring out which wires to use, etc.

I chose to wire directly into the home-link power in the rear view mirror. I prefer to have my detector shut off and on with the car, but instructions are also here for wiring with the detector constantly powered (you turn it on and off yourself)

What you'll need:

* A V1 Direct-wire kit, comes with the V1 or you can order another from http://www.valentine1.com
* A philips screwdriver
* A nut driver
* A pair of sharp-tipped cutters for cutting insulation around a bundle of wires that you don't want to damage

Steps:

1. Open the sunglasses holder and remove the two philips screws on the roof of the car. This took some muscle to get them going, especially the driver's side one

2. Pull the map-light/sunglass holder/sunroof switch unit out, pulling down from the windshield side at first, then pulling down to ease the unit out of the headliner.

3. Disconnect the power to the map lights and sunroof switches and set the unit aside. (Simple connectors that snap apart)

4. Disconnect the wire assembly from the back of the rear-view mirror. (Snaps out)

5. Slide the top wire cover above the rear view mirror off. Just slide down and pull toward you.

6. Pinch at the bottom of the lower wire cover to remove it.

7. Pull the rear-view-mirror wiring harness up through the headliner and down through the map light hole that you created by removing the unit above. This will allow you to work on the wires more easily and hide your work completely when you're done.

8. *Carefully* cut away the plastic surrounding the wires as close to the roof as you are able, exposing the 4 wires inside the bundle.

9. The all-black wire (or maybe it has a brown stripe, my eyes are getting old) will provide power only when the car is turned on. The red/black wire is constantly powered. From the V1 kit, attach the blue wire clip to the wire that will give you the behavior you desire.

10. Feed the red and black ends of the wires from the V1 kit through the front of the headliner where the rear view mirror wires pass.

11. Attach the red wire to the blue wire clip you just attached.

12. Attach the black wire to one of the hex nuts you see at the top of the map light comparment.

13. Position the plastic V1 power unit where you would like it... I attached it directly to the windshield with the supplied velcro attachment.

14. Pull the extra red and black wire up into the headliner, and feed the rear view mirror power harness back down to the rear view mirror.

15. Reassemble the rear view mirror by attaching the power cord and re-installing the two plastic pieces, they just snap back on.

16. Re-connect the map light and sunroof power connectors to the map light/sunroof unit. Remember to push the large block to the side before pusing the unit back up into the headliner, or there won't be room for the sunglass holder to operate properly.

17. Push the unit back up into the headliner

18. Replace the two phillips head screws in the sunglass holder

19. Mount your V1 on the windshield (or wherever you plan to put it) run the cable to the aux power box, and you're set.


You could alternatively fit the V1 power block into the headliner itself, I think, and just have a wire decending to the V1, but I haven't tried to see if it fits comfortably yet.


Hope this helps some of you...

Matt

MaRX8

could you post a picture of what your final installation looks like, I'm very curious..

Attack

The screws to remove

Attack

Removing the sunglass holder/map light/sunroof unit

Attack

Wiring harnesses to detach

Attack

Removing the plastic pieces that dress up the rear-view-mirror wiring harness

Attack

Removing the wiring harness from the rear view mirror

Attack

After removing the insulation, the four wires exposed

Attack

Blue splice clip attached

Attack

Two wires attached, (one red, one black), and the wires run through the front of the headliner

Attack

The power port attached

Attack

The completed install

Hercules

Wowzer, thanks!

I'm not going to use that unit though, instead I'll get a length of telephone cable and use that to directly wire the car... that jack is really an eyesore :\

MrWigggles

Attack,

Thanks very much for the pics and instructions. It takes a lot of time and effort to do a post like this.

-Mr. Wigggles

Spin9k

I did something like what you did, but just put the double RJ11 jack thingy up inside the headliner. So all that came out was a thin flat telephone wire I constructed about 6" long (in silver of course). Makes a nearly invisible install.

The other, and I think maybe easier part, is I didn't take apart, and use the mirror wiring. I instead used a large black wire coming out of the (larger) connector on the side going to the overhead assembly (***see the bunch of colored wires RIGHT IN FRONT in ATTACK's 3rd pic above w/big arrow pointing at it***) There are two black wires in there. To make sure you've got the right wire you can just use a voltmeter there to check what's live (red voltmeter lead to choosen connector wire, black to car chassis) while turning the key off/on.

Didn't have to strip anything, just clamp the V1 inline connector on it. Then plug and play! Works great. Sorry no pics of that, it's all back together.

Attack

This is great, I will definitely move the block up into the headliner since it fits. It looks like you're hooking the detector to your visor with the clip rather than to the windshield with the suction cups. Have you figured out a way to level out the detector? Looks like the rear-facing window is aiming at the roof rather than the back windscreen because of the 10 degree or so pitch of the sun visors. Maybe a little wedge of foam or napkin in between the detector and the sun visor does the trick?

Spin9k

Well, sorta. I just make the V1 level by moving the visor itself.

When I used the suction cups it was so far into the windshield, you could see it way to easily, but I was more afraid of heat from the sun cooking the thing.

On the visor it is a compromise. When it is dead level, it points straight out front OK, but it also points straight back too, BUT that means it also points a little into the headliner above the back window. I haven't noticed that is affects it any, seems to work from the rear OK, don't know about laser, but then ... can laser get you going away? I don't know.

I have to put a bumper on top of it it like you mention, cause with the visor mount it rattles over big bumps against the visor. Other than that I like it there!

MVCalypso

OK, it must be that time of day where I ask what may be a dumb question...

When you mount the detector to the visor, doesn't that intefere with using the visor as a visor?

It seems to me that I'd want the visor to remain functional - why is this not an issue to you?

Spin9k

Not dumb... Life IS full of compromise.... when it comes to RDs.

IOW that's why God gave us hands... to use as visors while the other real ones are busy holding RDs.

Spin9k

Last V1 RD on visor update. Last time the problem was RD alignment level w/road, plus as a result, having to have visor pulled down somewhat, rather than being up in its normal position. Result: unstable position, rattling over bumps.

Found the solution, little black rubber tips at Home Depot. Check the pics, perfectly level now. Sees out the front, sees out the back. Visor clip is now under expansion pressure, no rattle whatsoever. Detector is well hidden from view, detector is out of direct sun heat/rays.

Hercules

I have heard that the radar's detection gets cut down signifgantly if you put it into the 'glazing' that's on top of the front winshield.

That's why I mount mine UNDER the rear-view mirror. I take it off when I'm not in the car and it's parked so it doesn't get stolen... so it's not a big deal to me.

Spin9k

You are likely right, I've heard that too. This install may not appear that way in my pic, but from outside and in front of the car, it has a clear shot, actually it is just below and maybe 3" to the right of the bottom line of the 'shading' behind the mirror. From the passenger side front the mirror itself obstructs, but I have found there is so much radar scatter, if you're within target range, the V1 knows instantly no matter.

I'm too lazy to take mine apart each time I leave the car. To me that would be major inconvenience.

Zonker04

I bought a fuse adapter from Pep Boys for about $8 and plugged it into the 7.5 amp accessory fuse in the left-had footwell fuse box. I attached the V1 power cord to the fuse adapter wire and ran the black V1 (phone type) cord up inside the A-pillar weatherstripping across the dash to a spot near the windshield, directly in front of the speedometer, and used the V1 suction cups to attach the V1 to the windshield down low.

Took me about 10 minutes, I didn't have to cut or splice into any OEM wires, and it looks pretty clean except for the black V1 wire on my dash. I don't need the remote display since the V1 is in muy line of sight. The downside is that my body may block some radar signals and laser signals from behind, and the V1 is more visible to people outside the car, including the local constanbulary. But it's easy to remove and store for secure parking. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it.

FWIW

nt5k

Zonker, Any pics of what you did to the fuse box? I will probably go this route when hardwiring the Escort. (Valentine refused to sell me the hardwire kit for the V1, since I'm not a customer.. weird.. )

Hard 8

I'm trying, NT5K (I'm now Hard 8--I like this name better), but I can't figure out how to upload a picture. It seems to want me to post a URL, but I just want a direct upload. Is that impossible now?