Just use the "Attach file" option. Maximum size 200kB.

 

Or you can email them to me and I'll host them on my imagestation.. PM me if the attaching doesn't workout..

thanks

 

Got it; thanks for the help. I had forgotten that approach.

 

And:

 

Also:

 

And finally:

 

I had the V1 closer to the windshield before, but the way I have it now, closer to the steering wheel, makes it easier to hit the controls. I might install my remote display unit on my steering wheel, and relocate the main unit, but I kind of like this simpler approach for now. I just wish I could tuck the wire into the dash somehow. Any ideas?

The bundle of wires gets tucked into the little opening above the fuse box. The wire leading up to the V1 gets tucked into the door weatherstripping. The V1 power pick-up clips onto the fuse adapter, which I bought at Pep boys for about $8. The pick-up ground wire screws onto any metal screw under the dash. If Valentine won't sell you the remote adapter, maybe I can order one for you since I have an account with them, but I think it's specific to the V1, since it uses phone jacks for the power outputs

Number of cut wires: Zero
Number of modified OEM parts: Zero
Amount of OEM insulation damaged or cut: Zero
Damage remaining after removal: Zero

 

Sweet.. I'll give it a try this weekend when I get the car back.. I already bought the Escort hardwire kit which is pretty much the same thing. So we'll see..

Thanks!

 

You're very welcome. Please post pix and any suggestions for improvements.

 

When all said and done how many total amps are on the fuse adapter. (What is the amperage of the 2 fuses you put on it)

Bought the wrong size adapter by mistake.. doh.. heh.. Guess I'll try this tomorrow..

 

All done.. I put mine in the center of the car and shoved the wiring behind the windshield air vent.. Not too bad..

Thanks for the help!

 

Here it is..

 

Good information here. I just wish I had taken the time to look before I did my V1 hard wire. So, as a result, I have a few differences too.

I more closely followed the changes Hard 8 described. But I removed the trim piece right above the fuese box. Found a great ground spot there, a place to store the direct wire “plug” and was able to keep the wires from being pinched or showing. See pic. I also installed my unit right next to the rear view mirror. The wire runs under the interior liner. So the only spots where the wire is exposed are right by the V1 and across the base of the A pillar. Didn’t want to force it between the airbag and dash. Just didn’t seem like a good idea. But all the rest of the wire is hidden.

Thanks to all that contributed to the info in this thread.

 

The A pillar cross over

 

... and the install next to the rear view - well within reach.

 

Woah, dems some big pics. Looks good tho, nice and clean.

 

Moderator huh? What a swell way to meet ya!

Seriously, it was very late when I posted these pics. I scaled them back (originally from a 5 meg camera) to meet file size requirements, but didn’t bother to look at dimensions of other pics on the thread. So I moved them back to 800 wide. I think that fits better. Not that you asked me too, but I think it makes better viewing as well. I’ll try to do better in future posts … like getting to them earlier!
:D

Oh! And thanks!

 

I was driving down I-95 Thanks Giving morning into VA.. Since Radar detectors are illegal in VA , I removed my detector that was hardwired into the Homelink power in my mirror... Well I probably should have pulled over but I didnt. All of a sudden ALL the power in my car went out and nothing worked except the hazard lights..

Apparently, one of my wires were loose and I shorted them together.. Home-link is directly connected to the ignition fuse, so I was able to replace it with a spare..

Anyway this is info/warning to anyone using the home-link power..

 

I thought I would add a pic of the fuse box and the trim piece above it to show the wiring ...

 

Nah, not bein critical, just editorializin... :D

Nice to meetcha.

 

Sorry, there is one good man (or girl) that explain me what the V1 Radar Detector do????
thank a lot!!!!

 

Check out the Valentine One website for a nice demo of its features.

 

The web site is certainly the best spot for info as Speed Racer point out. But here's my opinions on the subject.

The V1 is a radar detector. In industry tests it either shows up on top of the results way above all the competition or listed as overpriced and falls from the top. The biggest differences are :

Direction arrows to let you know if the radar is in front of you, behind you or on the side. May not sound like much but once you have it, you really can’t go back. I don’t think any other detector has this feature.

A counter to let you know how many radars it’s showing. The idea being that sometimes radar is hidden in know false alarm area. With the counter, you can know it’s there. I believe a few detectors have this feature as well.

You can upgrade the unit. Unfortunately, the upgrade price is about the same as a low end unit. I don’t think other detectors have this feature.

There is a big price difference on this unit. As in it’s one of the most expensive.

Hope that helps

 

Thanx attack for posting such a detailed installation.

But Im a little concerned with the position of ur radar.
I've been studying on radar detectors at www.radar-detectors.com, at one part it says that the radar should be mounted to the dash board as close as possible, since most cops will point the radar at ur license plate.

Is this true? Or is actually mounting it near the rear view mirror fine?

Thanx

 

No problem at all mounting it near the mirror. By the time the radar actually strikes your car, the beamwidth is significantly large enough to encompass the entire vehicle. The advantage of mounting it higher allows you to potentially "hear" the radar when it's being used against other vehicles ahead of you by letting it look farther out. Laser gets aimed at the license plate or headlights to get a good reflection (it's light, after all), but radar in and of itself doesn't need that reflective of a surface because the beam isn't nearly as precise.