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GB Interest? ProPower High Output Alternator

Old 08-07-2006, 11:11 PM
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GB Interest? ProPower High Output Alternator

Hey Guys

Mechman is considering a group buy on their ProPower line of alternators for the Rx8. We have power levels starting at 150 amps all the way up to 225. Note: all parts are new, nothing is reworked or reused.

Whats included in this purchase?

150, 175, 200 or 225 amp ProPower Alternator (hot rated)

Custom made adapter bracket for the Renesis 13b

Adapter plugs (plug and play, no wire splicing or guess work)

Positive/Negative 0GA cabling cut to size with ring terminals

A serpentine pulley

1 Year Warranty


A $150.00 dollar non-refundable deposit would be required.

Pricing will be between $430 for a 150 Amp to $685 for a 225 Amp depending on the number of people who sign up for this. If you desire polishing it would cost extra.

Please direct any and all questions my way and I will be as prompt as possible to answer them. Please feel free to visit http://www.mechman.com/home.html for more information, but all inquiries or interest must be expressed in this thread until we know if we have enough to pay the GB fee and formally begin one.

Here is a link to some pics of our alternators http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=523557

Thanks
Chris
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Old 08-07-2006, 11:49 PM
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Does the RX-8 have an alternator? I thought that it was a generator that was controlled by the PCM??
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Old 08-07-2006, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dannobre
Does the RX-8 have an alternator? I thought that it was a generator that was controlled by the PCM??
nice touch... did you point your toes???


beers
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Old 08-08-2006, 10:03 AM
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Thanks for your concern here guys, but I have approved this feeler thread too. If you're interested, speak up here!
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Old 08-08-2006, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by dannobre
Does the RX-8 have an alternator? I thought that it was a generator that was controlled by the PCM??
The Rx8 alternator shares many of the same characteristics as the Rx7 alt. The fitment is basically the same, only difference is the regulator. Half of the regulator is in the ECU and half is in the alternator. The "P" "D" designations are as follows: The "P" is a designation for "Stator" and is a special kind of stator connection. The "D" is for "Driver" which means the driver transistor for the rotor. Generators do not put out near enough power for any company to use one. Although some vehicle dashboards still have the word "Generator" on them or the vehicle manual will refer to the "Generator indicator", it is still an alternator.
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Old 08-10-2006, 10:43 PM
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Yes I would definately be interested in a group buy.
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Old 08-14-2006, 08:47 AM
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Same here, thanks!
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Old 08-26-2006, 01:30 AM
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Sorry but I have to take myself off the list. Good luck and thank you for your quick responses and help.
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Old 11-23-2006, 11:34 AM
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i'm sure they work great, but $4-600 for an alternator??
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Old 11-23-2006, 02:34 PM
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Question Options....

Went to your site and looked over all the options/models/prices and it's all there EXCEPT the one option I need -

How much is the "polished" option ?

O.K., flame away, yes I'm a ricer, but if I pay over $500 for an alternator, it's gonna LOOK like a $500 alternator!!!

S
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Old 02-07-2007, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by StealthTL
Went to your site and looked over all the options/models/prices and it's all there EXCEPT the one option I need -

How much is the "polished" option ?

O.K., flame away, yes I'm a ricer, but if I pay over $500 for an alternator, it's gonna LOOK like a $500 alternator!!!

S
I apologize for not checking this thread lately but the response was virtually nothing, so I dropped the idea of moving forward with the GB.

To answer your question, polishing is an extra 70 bucks.

Thanks
Chris
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Old 03-29-2007, 11:06 AM
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upz...

Originally Posted by Rotorlutionary
I apologize for not checking this thread lately but the response was virtually nothing, so I dropped the idea of moving forward with the GB.

To answer your question, polishing is an extra 70 bucks.

Thanks
Chris
upzz....
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:38 AM
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Not to **** on the thread or anything, but I bought a 275A alternator for my denali for under $300, brand new in the box with an output plot, warranty, etc. I think I did have to pay another 30 bucks for the appopriate charge cable, though.
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Old 08-01-2007, 10:15 PM
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Yes but it is a completely different concept. Same actions I bought a 325 custom made one for my cavalier for 500. It is different for all cars.
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Old 09-24-2007, 01:04 PM
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ahhh i just replaced my alternator. 325 bucks for a new one from mazda.
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Old 09-24-2007, 01:06 PM
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just kinda curious, what is the output rating of stock Alternator
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Old 09-25-2007, 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by uncivilracer View Post
Yes but it is a completely different concept. Same actions I bought a 325 custom made one for my cavalier for 500. It is different for all cars.
It's not all that difficult to do an alternator swap. Most bolt on with 2 or 3 bolts and have one main charge wire and 2-3 smaller wires. It's just a matter of doing a little grinding here or add a spacer or 2 there to get the pulley offset correct. Sometimes you have to make a custom pulley, sometimes you can modify your stocker to fit the new alternator. I know some FD rx7 guys with GM alternators on there because of the better availability and lower cost.

If alternators for this application are truly going for this much and still don't put out a whole lot of amperage, then I would say it'd be well worth it to do the modifications needed to custom fit a better alternator at a lower cost.
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Old 10-07-2007, 12:23 PM
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I'm in for a 225 polished. Is this going anywhere???
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Old 10-07-2007, 02:23 PM
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I might need a new one. Anyone know what our stock Alternators put out and why we should up grade?
Thanks,
-Gil
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Old 10-07-2007, 03:46 PM
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stockers are 100amp. There is only a need to upgrade if you have lots of aftermarket parts on the car like lights, stereo, etc. You can get an idea of the extra draw these items put on the car by adding up their fuses. The stock system should be able to handle 30-40 amps over standard, provided you have a healthy battery and good connections.

Really high amp alternators require larger charge cables between the alternator and battery, also. I have a 2gauge cable between my 275A alt and battery on my truck.
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Old 10-07-2007, 03:49 PM
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btw, I can powdercoat any of you guys' stock or aftermarket alternators to look better than polished (and never require any repolishing).

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/kl...tfiles/PCwork/

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Old 10-07-2007, 09:58 PM
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Dam that looks good. I was just going to paint mine. I'm going to get my sock alternator tested at Autozone on Monday. If I need a new one how much to replace the oem?
BTW that large oil cooler your useing, are you runing any cooler with that set up?
Thanks
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Old 10-07-2007, 10:52 PM
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I want to upgrade my stock Alt a bit ... cuz my HDD NAV install, everytime I press the Windows up or down, my Gauges will darken a bit, yeah just a bit. but hmm. it could be my battery not strong enough (stocker, replaced under warranty about 1 1/2 yr ago)

but the price is just too steep .... and Im lazy to fab my own brackets.
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Old 10-08-2007, 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by DOMINION View Post
Dam that looks good. I was just going to paint mine. I'm going to get my sock alternator tested at Autozone on Monday.
Why, are you having charge problems?

If I need a new one how much to replace the oem?
Why are you asking me?

I would guess from mazda, several hundred dollars, or aftermarket reman (autozone etc.) somewhere in the $100-200 range. Or you could always take it to a local alternator/starter rebuild shop and perhaps get it slightly upgraded for more amperage.

These alternators appear very similar to previous versions found on 89+ rotaries and other models, and I've always been told there is a pretty limited amount of upgrading that can be done to a stock alternator case due to internal size limitations...something like 25-35 extra amps can be had in most cases.


BTW that large oil cooler your useing, are you runing any cooler with that set up?
Thanks
Hell if I know, I dont have any aftermarket gauges in the '8. It's just one of those no brainer's. The FD3S auto and base models only had a single oil cooler, the FD3S R1/R2 models had the dual coolers, and the FC3S had the single big cooler on all models which is known to cool better than either of the FD's setups. I know rx-8 owners dont want to hear about it, but the chassis and front end layout borrows heavily from the FD3S and the oil cooling is basically identical, thus I would expect the same results...the FC oil cooling setup is an improvement versus the small stock cooler(s).
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Old 10-08-2007, 11:53 AM
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Well when I roll up my winders or turn my wheel left or right my lights go dim then right back to norm.

I never had to replace one on this bad boy before. Fig you did seeing how you did all that fancy

IMO; Thing is that larg cooler looks like it gets hit with more air. But all in all it = the same size. Just chop the 2 oem's and putem side by side. Still, Looks cool. Good job.
Thanks,
-Gil
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