Only because I have seen three people with aftermarket seals puke up an apex seal and have heard of stories of others.

 

That isn't quite as good a deal as you think There seems to be corner seal issues with doing that above 300HP...although there is other problems up there with the whole thing anyway

 

Just swap with a REW, done. lol

 

I will see what kind of 1/4 mile time Hoss puts down when he is tuned and then I will see what my next plan of attack is. But right now I am happy with my car.

 

Last I heard this was the way to go... Where did you see the above 300hp mark thing?

 

I am sure he experienced that himself. He tried nearly everything before going REW.

 

The corner seals became very easily broken with the deeper cuts for the FD corner seals. If you have a look at the way the seals sit in the rotors and the positions of the side seals you will see what I mean. The high compression rotors also take away from the safety margin that there is no room for error
the 300 limit is more of a "ping safety" limit in my mind. You can survive a small ping there...but pings at 500 are a different story and stuff breaks

I really tried to stay Renesis...just couldn't stomach the failures any more.

There is a big difference between having a well sorted streetable RX-8 and one that gets beat on continuously at the track

I figure that the amount I run the car...that it is in the endurance race schedule type scenario...only at 500HP. I'm having to come to grips with the failure rate even with an FD engine. My latest failure is bearing related from running Conti slicks without a dry sump. I tried different oil pan baffles and other means with the wet sump...and still lost a bearing on my favorite track that sees a long R sweeper at about 1.5G on slicks. The NT01's were OK....not sticy enough ...but the change to slicks cost me a front stat gear bearing and a motor. Currently doing a dry sump setup and waiting for the lightened rotors and balanced rotating assembly to build a motor that I hope will last

 

So you were using FD apex and corner seals? Or FD corner plugs with Renny Apex seals?

Petit didn't seem to have any issues with their cars thats the only reason I am asking.

 

Exactly !

 

That's partly where my 300HP limit came from They seemed to be OK at that level. Problem was pushing it another 20-30%...seemed to be too much

Like the REW's...someone will figure out a recipe that will allow max output with minimum risk...I just couldn't stomach the cost to experiment with it any more myself

 

Yeap me either.. I bought an S4 and kept the 8 for a project car.

 

f1xr3d

 

LOL, you assume I am talking about local builds. Of the locals, the only seals that "failed" were the Atkins cryo's and that was more of a manufacturing issue than a strength issue.

 

IDK we will see. I may be able to hit my power goals without pushing past 10psi. It will be intresting to see how this kit works out.

I am assuming engine will see less exhaust back pressure then the average greddy baised kit and it may help with engine longevity @ that 20-30%.

No matter im not going to push the limits untill i have a second engine on hand.

 

what are the specs on your turbo Hoss? I looked but couldn't seem to find what I was looking for. Maybe I over looked it

 

From turblown:

 

Will be very interested to see how the spool-up compares to mine (BNR upgraded greddy) . Mainly because it is the reverse . IE large compressor wheel with smaller turbine and turbine housing.

 

It seems like it will be quick. I cannot ramp up my load much at this time but it seems to build boost quick if I'm not careful.

What i am really hoping for with this set up is very little back pressure. With the Big AR and large 50mil WG the engine should not see much back pressure.

 

Well i see 10psi by 4100 in 3rd .... see what yours does when you can .
As a reference my old setup with the 57trim wheel and same Greddy turbine saw 10psi by 3500 . A significant difference.

 

For me (upgraded Greddy 54lb/min supposedly) getting to 8-10psi is almost instantaneously depending on how much throttle I throw at it, the issue for me all along has been holding boost in the upper revs. I will be addressing that soon.

 

Mine as well (BNR upgraded Greddy) boost pretty much shoots up instantly to 10psi. And then the longer I stay on it, the faster I go, the boost starts to creep up. I've seen 14 psi at redline in 5th gear.

 

You are playing with fire.

 

That says nothing definitive about how fast it spools .
Do a test in 3rd gear from 2500 full throttle , set EBC alarm to 10 psi , plant your boot and watch rpm . when you hear the buzzer note the rpm .

With that info you can make a comparison.

 

I can do that, I have multiple boost gauges with alarms,

 

I kind of feel that way sometimes 9krpmrx8... It seems like I'm running more boost then the 'usuals' around here. But also, my engine is built up more than most so I'm not sure what to think. Doing good so far----crossers fingers.

And as far as being able to spool up, I know there have been times where I have bogged the engine down going up a hill in 4th gear and I look at my boost gauge and surprised to see 10-11 psi at very low rpm. I will have to try what you said when I get a chance to give you an exact comparison.