Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

I have two questions regarding slider pins for the brakes. One is, does the knotched pin (the bottom pin in the picture below) go in the top position or the bottom position on the caliper? Second, does anyone know where to get the rubber boots thats you need with them? I had mine seize up on me and Im trying to order new ones, but seems places dont sell the rubber boots. Thoughts? Picture attached for reference.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The boots come in the rebuild kits for the calipers.....

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

Ah, I see now that Autozone sells them in a pack, thank you. Do you know which position the knotched bolt goes in? Top or bottom? I assume there is a reason it is knotched?

poacherinthezoo

If my memory serves me right - the top one goes in the top and the bottom in the bottom (as the bottom on is threaded at the end, allowing you to "unscrew" it and swing the caliper up to change the pads).

The best way to know for sure is to look at your brakes when your taking your them apart (if you haven't already).

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Just changed my slider pins, pretty sure they only fit one way....

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

Ok, then I did it correctly (knotched bolt on bottom). I was stupid and pulled them both out without taking note of which went in what position. Thanks.

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

Sorry, more brake related questions. So i changed my brake pads to Hawk HPS and I had a local shop do the bleed for me. Now the pedal feel mushy and squeshy. If I pump the brakes without the car on it firms up and seems fine (which I have read means the master cylinder is ok). Now when I put my foot on the brake with the car on, the pedal will eventually go close to the floor. Brake performance is OK, but not what I was hoping for from the Hawk pads. Anyone have any ideas?

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Yes, you either have a leak somewhere, which should be obvious, or more likely, you have air in your system.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

You should only bleed your brakes if you have to change something that would allow air into the system.
I often open the bleeder screw when compressing calipers, and don't bleed the system.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Leaving this here as more will see it.

Diagnostics Time

Symptoms:

Car cranks but wont fire, if the ignition is left on to long my interior starts going nuts. I see door and dome lights flashing and here relays clicking in all corners of the car.

Key out of the ignition I have two dash lights on, headlights and door adjar lights

No codes are read, all grounds and connections seem good. Car is getting fuel, no doubt by now its flooded I will have to pull the plugs and see. I do not think it is getting spark. Brand New BHR kit, good ground right to the battery and still nothing.

I am kinda stumped here, never seen this one before, its always my luck to have electrical problems which I hate more than anything.

CRO8TIA

Man, a guy with the exact same problem, down to the word,just posted in the BulletProof N/A Build section 11 minutes after you did. You guys should get together to work it out

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Apologies about the double post, I know a lot of the guys who can help are subscribed to this thread and might see it after it has left the live feed.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

I know Fungster had a bunch of electrical issues and posts about it recently, but I don't know if he got it fixed.
There may be some clues there.

Jazzmeson

iTrader: (5)

I've been hearing a strange metallic rattling noise upon acceleration in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear around 2000 - 3500 RPM lately... It is definitely coming from the front. Changed the transmission fluid and differential with OEM fluid around 36,000 miles and the car now has almost 49,000. It sounds kind of like pouring a bunch of coins into a Coinstar machine but more subtle, if you get what I'm saying? No, I don't think it is the "Marbles in a can" issue. The threads I read seem to only be having the issues at high RPMs or WOT. Heat shield perhaps? Certain parts of the transmission going bad perhaps?

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

Clear pay flakes like that. I used clear coat like base coat/clear coat without the base coat. If the headlights were not preped properly before sprayed it would cause the clear to come off like that. We can get yours done. Guess we could rade temporarily and I could do them and trade back.

catchb52

I have been reading a lot of this web site since I got my rx8. I have been premixing at 0.5 oz per gallon. Now thinking of putting in a Sohn system. I understand what it does, but in all my reading, I have not found what Sohn stands for?

Also: my RX is approaching 40,000 miles. I understand that the coil system is a weak link for the seriers 1 RX .. Do you just wait until the old system fails or will an upgrade coil actually improve anything? Car is running well and other than a loose plug wire issue. I have not noticed any issues.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Replace wires, plugs, and coils every 30k. Maintenance items. Failure to do so will lead to problems and cascading failures. See the new owner thread, ignition section for more info.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Did you try a search?
I Googled Sohn OMP and found it with no problem.

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

Richard Sohn.. Inventor/engineer of the Sohn Adapter. Doesn't stand for anything.

Baren Von Halen

I'm just about to purchase a 2004 Rx8 and had some stupid basic questions. I've been researching care and maintenance for 2-3 days straight and understand that if one stays on top of it, that this car really isn't as much of a hassle as many make it out to be.

First dumb question: I've seen many pictures of what the rotary in this car looks like under the hood... a lot of them look different. This one I'm buying seems to have a big trough under a metal arm, like there's a chunk taken out of the engine. It looks like some of the google images I've seen and the test drive went fine, great pick-up, smooth ride. Is there something missing or am I just so used to seeing the engine compartment packed with so much stuff like piston engines?

This brings me to my second dumb question: There is vibration from the rear left muffler when the car is idling in drive but not park. Is this anything to worry about, or could it just be the nature of the beast?

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Hello, sounds like a modified 8.
Stock engine has plastic covers over most of the engine compartment, and a single muffler with two tailpipes. There should be no vibrations.
Ask for a compression test.

catchb52

Thanks. I did search sohn, just did not add OMP. That would explain why it is capitalized.

Since I purchased my RX after 30,000 miles, I would assume there us no way of identifying if a new factory coil was put on at the 30,000 service. PO was pretty meticulous in service, so if that is routine for the 30,000 mike service, it would have been done.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Never assume.
I don't think it's a scheduled dealer service item at 30k.
It's another maintenance item knowledgeable 8 owners do cause we know it should be done and dealers don't.
You should go back and read up on new owner stickies.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, the coils are not an officially recognized maintenance item by Mazda. If left to a dealer's care, coils will only get replaced one by one, and only when they fail completely. And the dealer will happily let them cause misfires for tens of thousands of miles before that.

Chapsy

Encountered a problem recently that has me concerned. Let me give a little background on my 8.

08 40th anniversary, coming up on 40,000 miles.

About 3-4 weeks ago, my wife and I were rear ended by a Saturn SC2. The guy slammed on his brakes and hit us at maybe about 15-20 miles per hour. It felt worse than the visible damage let on.

Everyone was OK (except for the guy who hit us and decided to run.), and the car just needed a new bumper, but I've noticed this "dragging" sensation coming from the rear end of the car when I have been:

A.)Driving the car while it is warmed up. (i.e. it doesn't happen when cold)

B.)Taking a turn at a stop (Also happens when I push the clutch in while slowing down/downshifting through a turn and releasing while turning, although it's most noticeable when turning from a stop.)

I did a little bit of reading and found that people with these symptoms had a "Stuffed" Diff. My questions regarding this are:

1.)What makes a Diff "Stuffed"? I couldn't find any info regarding this. Is it something like the Diff getting clogged with Metal Shavings from excessive grinding/wear and tear?

2.)What is the likelihood the hit-n-run that we encountered a few weeks back led to this problem? I do recall being in 1st, since we were stopped at a stoplight at the time, but even so wouldn't I also encounter Transmission damage if that were the case? On that note, our claim is still open as well, would any diagnostic fees be covered by our policy/claim? I'm not too familiar on matters such as this, so if anyone could shed some light on the matter that would be great.

3.)Could it also be a case of just needing new fluid? I don't have access to any service records, so I am unsure of when the gear oil was last changed. I can only assume with the miles on the car that it is running on original gear oil. I'd love to switch over to Redline, but I'd also hate to waste around 60 bucks if the Diff does indeed end up needing changed.

The car does have an extended Powertrain warranty (I would not have bought an 8 without one.), so if the Diff is damaged and is found to not be in relation to the hit-n-run, I can still get it covered under warranty right?

Thanks for any and all help.