Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
07-06-2013, 11:39 AM
#2326
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Leaving Rx8. Need to sell OEM wheel
Hey Guys,
I've been a member here since 2004 when I bought my Titanium Grey Rx-8. I had it for about 9 years and recently sold it to buy a new Mazda 6 2014. I love the new Mazda 6! Anyways, since this is the dumb question thread, I thought it MIGHT be safe to post here. I was cleaning out the garage and I have an extra OEM Wheel with a bridgestone potenza on it that I was using as a spare. I need to get rid of this . I tried going to the For Sale area of the site and posting, but it won't let me post! I scanned the rules but couldn't figure out why I don't have access to post.
Maybe some can help me out! So grateful to Rx8club.com over the years!!!
Thanks,
Melkor
I've been a member here since 2004 when I bought my Titanium Grey Rx-8. I had it for about 9 years and recently sold it to buy a new Mazda 6 2014. I love the new Mazda 6! Anyways, since this is the dumb question thread, I thought it MIGHT be safe to post here. I was cleaning out the garage and I have an extra OEM Wheel with a bridgestone potenza on it that I was using as a spare. I need to get rid of this . I tried going to the For Sale area of the site and posting, but it won't let me post! I scanned the rules but couldn't figure out why I don't have access to post.
Maybe some can help me out! So grateful to Rx8club.com over the years!!!
Thanks,
Melkor
07-06-2013, 11:51 AM
#2329
I've been hearing a strange metallic rattling noise upon acceleration in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear around 2000 - 3500 RPM lately... It is definitely coming from the front. Changed the transmission fluid and differential with OEM fluid around 36,000 miles and the car now has almost 49,000. It sounds kind of like pouring a bunch of coins into a Coinstar machine but more subtle, if you get what I'm saying? 
No, I don't think it is the "Marbles in a can" issue. The threads I read seem to only be having the issues at high RPMs or WOT. Heat shield perhaps? Certain parts of the transmission going bad perhaps?
No, I don't think it is the "Marbles in a can" issue. The threads I read seem to only be having the issues at high RPMs or WOT. Heat shield perhaps? Certain parts of the transmission going bad perhaps?
07-06-2013, 12:01 PM
#2330
Encountered a problem recently that has me concerned. Let me give a little background on my 8.
08 40th anniversary, coming up on 40,000 miles.
About 3-4 weeks ago, my wife and I were rear ended by a Saturn SC2. The guy slammed on his brakes and hit us at maybe about 15-20 miles per hour. It felt worse than the visible damage let on.
Everyone was OK (except for the guy who hit us and decided to run.), and the car just needed a new bumper, but I've noticed this "dragging" sensation coming from the rear end of the car when I have been:
A.)Driving the car while it is warmed up. (i.e. it doesn't happen when cold)
B.)Taking a turn at a stop (Also happens when I push the clutch in while slowing down/downshifting through a turn and releasing while turning, although it's most noticeable when turning from a stop.)
I did a little bit of reading and found that people with these symptoms had a "Stuffed" Diff. My questions regarding this are:
1.)What makes a Diff "Stuffed"? I couldn't find any info regarding this. Is it something like the Diff getting clogged with Metal Shavings from excessive grinding/wear and tear?
2.)What is the likelihood the hit-n-run that we encountered a few weeks back led to this problem? I do recall being in 1st, since we were stopped at a stoplight at the time, but even so wouldn't I also encounter Transmission damage if that were the case? On that note, our claim is still open as well, would any diagnostic fees be covered by our policy/claim? I'm not too familiar on matters such as this, so if anyone could shed some light on the matter that would be great.
3.)Could it also be a case of just needing new fluid? I don't have access to any service records, so I am unsure of when the gear oil was last changed. I can only assume with the miles on the car that it is running on original gear oil. I'd love to switch over to Redline, but I'd also hate to waste around 60 bucks if the Diff does indeed end up needing changed.
The car does have an extended Powertrain warranty (I would not have bought an 8 without one.), so if the Diff is damaged and is found to not be in relation to the hit-n-run, I can still get it covered under warranty right?
Thanks for any and all help.
08 40th anniversary, coming up on 40,000 miles.
About 3-4 weeks ago, my wife and I were rear ended by a Saturn SC2. The guy slammed on his brakes and hit us at maybe about 15-20 miles per hour. It felt worse than the visible damage let on.
Everyone was OK (except for the guy who hit us and decided to run.), and the car just needed a new bumper, but I've noticed this "dragging" sensation coming from the rear end of the car when I have been:
A.)Driving the car while it is warmed up. (i.e. it doesn't happen when cold)
B.)Taking a turn at a stop (Also happens when I push the clutch in while slowing down/downshifting through a turn and releasing while turning, although it's most noticeable when turning from a stop.)
I did a little bit of reading and found that people with these symptoms had a "Stuffed" Diff. My questions regarding this are:
1.)What makes a Diff "Stuffed"? I couldn't find any info regarding this. Is it something like the Diff getting clogged with Metal Shavings from excessive grinding/wear and tear?
2.)What is the likelihood the hit-n-run that we encountered a few weeks back led to this problem? I do recall being in 1st, since we were stopped at a stoplight at the time, but even so wouldn't I also encounter Transmission damage if that were the case? On that note, our claim is still open as well, would any diagnostic fees be covered by our policy/claim? I'm not too familiar on matters such as this, so if anyone could shed some light on the matter that would be great.
3.)Could it also be a case of just needing new fluid? I don't have access to any service records, so I am unsure of when the gear oil was last changed. I can only assume with the miles on the car that it is running on original gear oil. I'd love to switch over to Redline, but I'd also hate to waste around 60 bucks if the Diff does indeed end up needing changed.
The car does have an extended Powertrain warranty (I would not have bought an 8 without one.), so if the Diff is damaged and is found to not be in relation to the hit-n-run, I can still get it covered under warranty right?
Thanks for any and all help.
Warranty would not apply to collision damage. It only applies to manufacturing errors.
07-06-2013, 09:50 PM
#2331
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Hey Al, Thanks for the reply.
I had my friend who is the Rotary Tech down at our local Mazda Dealership take a look at it today, and after he took it on a test drive, he couldn't duplicate the problem.
Even so, he looked at the undercarriage and saw no evidence of damage, and when we drained the fluid to put some new stuff in we saw some metal shavings, but nothing that he said was cause for concern. The fluid however was nasty (most likely original fluid), so we went ahead and put the new fluid in for now.
Driving it back home I noticed none of the symptoms I described earlier, and on top of that the Diff seems to be operating much, much smoother. It's looking like this was a case of bad fluid so far. I'll closely monitor the car for the symptoms I had earlier. If they pop back up again, I'm bringing it back to the dealership right away.
I had my friend who is the Rotary Tech down at our local Mazda Dealership take a look at it today, and after he took it on a test drive, he couldn't duplicate the problem.
Even so, he looked at the undercarriage and saw no evidence of damage, and when we drained the fluid to put some new stuff in we saw some metal shavings, but nothing that he said was cause for concern. The fluid however was nasty (most likely original fluid), so we went ahead and put the new fluid in for now.
Driving it back home I noticed none of the symptoms I described earlier, and on top of that the Diff seems to be operating much, much smoother. It's looking like this was a case of bad fluid so far. I'll closely monitor the car for the symptoms I had earlier. If they pop back up again, I'm bringing it back to the dealership right away.
07-06-2013, 11:33 PM
#2332
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2004 Engine Replacement
2004 MT w/106K. Hard start when hot, 1qt of oil a week. Likely I will need the engine replaced soon. Any one have recommendations of where I can get a quality engine?
Thanks
Thanks
07-08-2013, 01:30 AM
#2333
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I just purchased an OBD dongle and the Torque app. I've done some searching and looked for stickies, but haven't found anything. Has anyone posted the setup numbers for Torque for a Series 2?
Specifically, the items I'm not sure about are the engine displacement and volumetric efficiency. Do I double the displacement, since it's a two-stroke engine? And, how does one crunch a curve down into a single value for the volumetric efficiency? Finally, what weight do you guys put in there? It says that it should include fuel, driver, etc. Is 1400 a good ballpark number? (I used an online calculator for imperial gallons for the fuel capacity. Why didn't they make units an option?)
Thanks,
Drake
Specifically, the items I'm not sure about are the engine displacement and volumetric efficiency. Do I double the displacement, since it's a two-stroke engine? And, how does one crunch a curve down into a single value for the volumetric efficiency? Finally, what weight do you guys put in there? It says that it should include fuel, driver, etc. Is 1400 a good ballpark number? (I used an online calculator for imperial gallons for the fuel capacity. Why didn't they make units an option?)
Thanks,
Drake
07-08-2013, 06:13 AM
#2334
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There is a settings screen where you can change the units
I honestly just ballparked the various numbers and ignored it. I tested the accuracy with my MSM, since I had a dyno for that to compare against, and played around with the weight of the car until I had it matching the dyno. I ended up getting a HP/TQ calculation correct when I was 700lbs over the actual curb weight. I struggle to believe that even if I were in denial and weighted 700lbs, that I would be able to fit in the MSM to begin with
(Maybe it's all just a delusion though)
Mileage was always recording way high, regardless of what I put in there.
My recommendation is to just ignore the outputs that those calculations are used for.
I honestly just ballparked the various numbers and ignored it. I tested the accuracy with my MSM, since I had a dyno for that to compare against, and played around with the weight of the car until I had it matching the dyno. I ended up getting a HP/TQ calculation correct when I was 700lbs over the actual curb weight. I struggle to believe that even if I were in denial and weighted 700lbs, that I would be able to fit in the MSM to begin with
(Maybe it's all just a delusion though)
Mileage was always recording way high, regardless of what I put in there.
My recommendation is to just ignore the outputs that those calculations are used for.
07-08-2013, 06:39 AM
#2335
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Doh! Well, that question sure belonged in this thread
Okay. That's too bad. The geek in me would have liked that sort of thing.
What about the displacement? Do I put in the actual displacement, or what I think is the equivalent displacement?
Drake
Mileage was always recording way high, regardless of what I put in there.
My recommendation is to just ignore the outputs that those calculations are used for.
My recommendation is to just ignore the outputs that those calculations are used for.
What about the displacement? Do I put in the actual displacement, or what I think is the equivalent displacement?
Drake
07-08-2013, 05:09 PM
#2336
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my 8 makes bunch of wierd noises in winter time.
clutch pedal squeak(not broken), wheels squeak, exhaust pops louder...
growling? kinda noise at low acceleration.
in summer time everything so smooth and quite.
clutch pedal squeak(not broken), wheels squeak, exhaust pops louder...
growling? kinda noise at low acceleration.
in summer time everything so smooth and quite.
07-10-2013, 03:07 AM
#2337
Yeah, the coils are not an officially recognized maintenance item by Mazda. If left to a dealer's care, coils will only get replaced one by one, and only when they fail completely. And the dealer will happily let them cause misfires for tens of thousands of miles before that.
a dealer was puzzled why i would want to change my coils plugs and wires so soon.. the guy said that they usually last 90k miles..
so dumb
07-10-2013, 04:21 AM
#2338
You gonna eat that?
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07-10-2013, 05:45 AM
#2339
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About the coils, I don't know if this has been mentioned before. The first time I had my '11 serviced, I took it to Rotary Performance here in Dallas. One thing that they spotted was that the coils were discharging out of the back of the coil. They showed me the old coils, and I could see the discoloration. They said that it was caused by the gap in the spark plugs growing enough, and enough buildup, that there was less resistance out the back of the coil than through the plug. They mounted a custom composite piece that added a centimeter or two of distance between the coil and the metal behind it.
What they said all made sense to me. It sounds like that piece can add some life to the coils.
Drake
What they said all made sense to me. It sounds like that piece can add some life to the coils.
Drake
07-10-2013, 06:48 AM
#2340
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Yes, improving the air flow around the coils is thought to improve the life of the coils. However, there is no actual proof of this yet. Far too many variables for an accurate test.
Discoloration on the coils is not a sign of fading coils though. Both good coils and bad coils have those spots, and the spots may never appear on some coils that go bad anyway.
Discoloration on the coils is not a sign of fading coils though. Both good coils and bad coils have those spots, and the spots may never appear on some coils that go bad anyway.
07-10-2013, 07:47 AM
#2341
Two questions
Does the ABS unit need to be re-paired(synced with the ECU) if it was removed, but then later put back in the same car?
When I start my car I get no lights, but as soon as i depress the brake I get the ABS light and traction control. My code reader is not able to read brake codes.
Also is their any benefit to recharge the AC system yourself over the dealer, IE any difference in performance. Also if you recharge the AC on the low side inlet, what is the high side inlet used for?
Does the ABS unit need to be re-paired(synced with the ECU) if it was removed, but then later put back in the same car?
When I start my car I get no lights, but as soon as i depress the brake I get the ABS light and traction control. My code reader is not able to read brake codes.
Also is their any benefit to recharge the AC system yourself over the dealer, IE any difference in performance. Also if you recharge the AC on the low side inlet, what is the high side inlet used for?
07-10-2013, 10:28 AM
#2342
A professional shop will use a/c gauges that check both high and low pressure to get it right.
As far as abs, I'm pretty sure you do not need to have the dealer repair the car to the abs cpu. Check simple things first...the fuses and bulbs and wheel sensors.
As far as abs, I'm pretty sure you do not need to have the dealer repair the car to the abs cpu. Check simple things first...the fuses and bulbs and wheel sensors.
pass me my glasses
07-16-2013, 02:36 PM
#2347
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Yes, improving the air flow around the coils is thought to improve the life of the coils. However, there is no actual proof of this yet. Far too many variables for an accurate test.
Discoloration on the coils is not a sign of fading coils though. Both good coils and bad coils have those spots, and the spots may never appear on some coils that go bad anyway.
Discoloration on the coils is not a sign of fading coils though. Both good coils and bad coils have those spots, and the spots may never appear on some coils that go bad anyway.
In the 2004 series one oem coils there were discolorations on the back side of the coils some times do to the coils shorting out against there own housing. This is straight from Mazda and can be checked for all the nay people. I believe it was cleared up from 2005 forward.
07-16-2013, 02:38 PM
#2348
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In the 2004 series one oem coils there were discolorations on the back side of the coils some times do to the coils shorting out against there own housing. This is straight from Mazda and can be checked for all the nay people. I believe it was cleared up from 2005 forward.
So, what to believe?
