Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
05-18-2014, 02:19 PM
#3552
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Hi i've read that MAZDA DEXELIA ULTRA 5W-30 is the same as Total Quartz Future 9000, is this the correct oil?
Total Quartz Future NFC 9000 5W30 Engine Oil Ford TOT-183199 5 Litre | eBay
Thanks
Total Quartz Future NFC 9000 5W30 Engine Oil Ford TOT-183199 5 Litre | eBay
Thanks
05-18-2014, 06:12 PM
#3553
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are my coils burnt out ???
hey guys i read the posts about our ignition and i read in there that if our coils have white spots on the back it means there burning out or somthing right ?? i think i flooded my car and cant get it to start again wondering if this might b my problem .. u guys seem to realy know what ur talking about here so i thought ied ask yall yalls opinion ??
05-18-2014, 06:15 PM
#3554
hey guys i read the posts about our ignition and i read in there that if our coils have white spots on the back it means there burning out or somthing right ?? i think i flooded my car and cant get it to start again wondering if this might b my problem .. u guys seem to realy know what ur talking about here so i thought ied ask yall yalls opinion ??
If the coils have more than 40K miles on them....just replace them
If they are newer...test them and see if they are working
05-18-2014, 06:29 PM
#3555
you have to test them per the spark load tool and method described in this thread
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-wires-222641/
IMO the RX8 probably has had more good coils thrown away by people guessing blindly than any other model to date ....
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-wires-222641/
IMO the RX8 probably has had more good coils thrown away by people guessing blindly than any other model to date ....
05-18-2014, 09:01 PM
#3556
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Yea but I dont have any sort if crazy tool 2 test it with ... That's the thing ??!? I guess I could fool nut brother by testing it by sticking his finger in it while I crank but I don't think even he would fall for it more than twice lol
05-19-2014, 12:46 AM
#3557
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Today my car started misfiring/flashing the flashing engine light at me. It also began blowing massive amounts of smoke just previous to the light coming on. Yay. (Hopefully that doesn't break the sarcasm rule too badly.) The engine is a reman with about 5000 miles on it, on which I replaced the coils, wires and spark plugs within 50 miles of getting. As the light came on, acceleration stopped at around 45 mph, though that hasn't happened again since. After coasting for a bit the light shut off, though the smoke is still present at start up, and hard acceleration.
Luckily, the dealership hinted the engine was under warranty. However, the trouble started midrun of an autocross, so there could have been high rpms, heavy throttle and the dsc being shut all the way off during or about the time the car misfired. Which brings me to my stupid questions, most of which are about the ECU and the data it remembers.
First, will the P0302 code (friend had a OBD2 reader) be readable by the dealership or will it have been forgotten?
Second, will the code and the smoke be enough to trigger the warranty?
Third, will the ECU have anything that might get the dealership to cancel the warranty?
Thanks everyone, I appreciate all the helps.
Luckily, the dealership hinted the engine was under warranty. However, the trouble started midrun of an autocross, so there could have been high rpms, heavy throttle and the dsc being shut all the way off during or about the time the car misfired. Which brings me to my stupid questions, most of which are about the ECU and the data it remembers.
First, will the P0302 code (friend had a OBD2 reader) be readable by the dealership or will it have been forgotten?
Second, will the code and the smoke be enough to trigger the warranty?
Third, will the ECU have anything that might get the dealership to cancel the warranty?
Thanks everyone, I appreciate all the helps.
05-19-2014, 03:18 AM
#3558
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Hi can anyone help?
i've read that MAZDA DEXELIA ULTRA 5W-30 is the same as Total Quartz Future 9000, is this the correct oil?
Total Quartz Future NFC 9000 5W30 Engine Oil Ford TOT-183199 5 Litre | eBay
Thanks
i've read that MAZDA DEXELIA ULTRA 5W-30 is the same as Total Quartz Future 9000, is this the correct oil?
Total Quartz Future NFC 9000 5W30 Engine Oil Ford TOT-183199 5 Litre | eBay
Thanks
05-19-2014, 08:27 AM
#3559
Today my car started misfiring/flashing the flashing engine light at me. It also began blowing massive amounts of smoke just previous to the light coming on. Yay. (Hopefully that doesn't break the sarcasm rule too badly.) The engine is a reman with about 5000 miles on it, on which I replaced the coils, wires and spark plugs within 50 miles of getting. As the light came on, acceleration stopped at around 45 mph, though that hasn't happened again since. After coasting for a bit the light shut off, though the smoke is still present at start up, and hard acceleration.
Luckily, the dealership hinted the engine was under warranty. However, the trouble started midrun of an autocross, so there could have been high rpms, heavy throttle and the dsc being shut all the way off during or about the time the car misfired. Which brings me to my stupid questions, most of which are about the ECU and the data it remembers.
First, will the P0302 code (friend had a OBD2 reader) be readable by the dealership or will it have been forgotten?
Second, will the code and the smoke be enough to trigger the warranty?
Third, will the ECU have anything that might get the dealership to cancel the warranty?
Thanks everyone, I appreciate all the helps.
Luckily, the dealership hinted the engine was under warranty. However, the trouble started midrun of an autocross, so there could have been high rpms, heavy throttle and the dsc being shut all the way off during or about the time the car misfired. Which brings me to my stupid questions, most of which are about the ECU and the data it remembers.
First, will the P0302 code (friend had a OBD2 reader) be readable by the dealership or will it have been forgotten?
Second, will the code and the smoke be enough to trigger the warranty?
Third, will the ECU have anything that might get the dealership to cancel the warranty?
Thanks everyone, I appreciate all the helps.
Second, I don't beleive it would be enough to warrant a new engine. I believe the steps to get a new engine are A) compression test fail, B) test drive fail, C) engine vacuum fail.
And lastly the only way they could deny the warranty is if you did something to the car that would cause the engine to lose compression. If you didn't do that, I don't see any reason for them to refuse it.
05-19-2014, 02:34 PM
#3560
Senior Member
I am looking for a list or just general information on a replacement for the "accordian" part of the intake system for a series II.
I want to replace the OEM design with something that is metal.
I want to replace the OEM design with something that is metal.
05-19-2014, 09:53 PM
#3562
Wankler
Too Long - Overheated Overheating Answer
Have you checked the shocks and end links? It shouldn't hop over bumps enough to be that unsettling.....
If a shock is blown you can get a baby buggy like bounce
As for 2 Posts above. .. Dave WTF are you trying to do. . Confuse the poor guy. There are some good tips buried in all that. .. but they are hard to find even if you know what to look for
If a shock is blown you can get a baby buggy like bounce
As for 2 Posts above. .. Dave WTF are you trying to do. . Confuse the poor guy. There are some good tips buried in all that. .. but they are hard to find even if you know what to look for
Next time I'll use KISS principle. Anyway, it gives the uninitiated something's to chew on! 
05-20-2014, 04:12 PM
#3566
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Ok so heres a question for ya. I hope to get a reply quickly so I can get it fixed. I want to Mazda Dealer near me to get a diagnosis on my 04 rx8. They said everything was fine, just my vehicle has low compression and my engine needs to be replaced. They were willing to order a new engine for me and put it in but it'd be around $3,300 to $5,500. I said no thanks, since i've found out the problem of why my car keeps having a hard start when warm now I will fix it on my own and in a cheaper way. Since I know my car or engine has low compression. How can I get it fixed? I have no clue and I want to get it fixed ASAP. I'm a dummy and i'm in the dumb question thread. Thanks!
How Do I get my compression back without buying a new engine. Because my Engine sounds fine to me and to others who was checking on it. It seems Mazda Dealer just wants me to keep spending cash on their products when I know my engine sounds and runs perfectly fine. It's just loss in compression and a hard warm start-up.
How Do I get my compression back without buying a new engine. Because my Engine sounds fine to me and to others who was checking on it. It seems Mazda Dealer just wants me to keep spending cash on their products when I know my engine sounds and runs perfectly fine. It's just loss in compression and a hard warm start-up.
05-20-2014, 04:48 PM
#3567
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To "fix" low compression you have 2 options:
1) Replace the engine (can buy a reman engine from Mazmart of your dealer)
or
2) Rebuild the engine (by yourself if your qualified and up for it, or by someone else/some shop that you trust enough)
Neither option is particularly cheap, as the price of reman engines recently went up, and you still have to remove the old engine and then put the new one in and hook everything up.
1) Replace the engine (can buy a reman engine from Mazmart of your dealer)
or
2) Rebuild the engine (by yourself if your qualified and up for it, or by someone else/some shop that you trust enough)
Neither option is particularly cheap, as the price of reman engines recently went up, and you still have to remove the old engine and then put the new one in and hook everything up.
05-20-2014, 04:58 PM
#3568
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To "fix" low compression you have 2 options:
1) Replace the engine (can buy a reman engine from Mazmart of your dealer)
or
2) Rebuild the engine (by yourself if your qualified and up for it, or by someone else/some shop that you trust enough)
Neither option is particularly cheap, as the price of reman engines recently went up, and you still have to remove the old engine and then put the new one in and hook everything up.
1) Replace the engine (can buy a reman engine from Mazmart of your dealer)
or
2) Rebuild the engine (by yourself if your qualified and up for it, or by someone else/some shop that you trust enough)
Neither option is particularly cheap, as the price of reman engines recently went up, and you still have to remove the old engine and then put the new one in and hook everything up.
Rebuilding the engine, is it just the compression part, or do you have to fix almost everything about the engine.
05-20-2014, 05:08 PM
#3569
Only answer to that is to crack it open and find out. It all depends on how bad of shape the engine is, what can be salveged and what has to be replaced. While you CAN do this yourself, it's highly not recommended. IF you want to rebuild the engine, talk to someone who rebuilds rotaries for a living. And for quality, you'll find few and far between.
05-20-2014, 05:08 PM
#3570
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Yeejlo, It depends upon the damage done to your motor. If the housings are excessively warn or gouged they will need replaced possibly refinished depending upon how they look. Same with the end plates and center plate. You never really know how much a rebuild is going to cost until you have everything apart and can see it.
05-20-2014, 05:18 PM
#3571
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Only answer to that is to crack it open and find out. It all depends on how bad of shape the engine is, what can be salveged and what has to be replaced. While you CAN do this yourself, it's highly not recommended. IF you want to rebuild the engine, talk to someone who rebuilds rotaries for a living. And for quality, you'll find few and far between.
Yeejlo, It depends upon the damage done to your motor. If the housings are excessively warn or gouged they will need replaced possibly refinished depending upon how they look. Same with the end plates and center plate. You never really know how much a rebuild is going to cost until you have everything apart and can see it.
Damn this sucks, is it recommended to still drive the vehicle, or it might get worse if I do? I mean.. Dang it, I already spend $200 today just on diagnosis from Mazda, oil change etc, and nothing's been fixed yet. Or should I take it to a "regular" auto shop and have them try to fix the issue, and see what the price might be.
05-20-2014, 05:22 PM
#3572
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If you have low compression there is no "FIXING" the issue. It either needs to be replaced or rebuilt. You can drive it as long as you want but be wary of the fact that eventually it will stop. Some have had it where the motor gradually dies out getting weaker and weaker making it harder and harder to start. Some just die on the highway. It's your risk to take. If you really wanna do research find a used motor out of a wreck and purchase it that way. It'll be somewhat cheaper. Still needs to be installed and since it's already used unless you get a compression test you really never know what your getting. Nothing about this car is cheap, so if 200 is upsetting you in all reality you might want to consider selling it. Not trying to be a dick just trying to get you some useful info.
05-20-2014, 05:30 PM
#3574
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If you have low compression there is no "FIXING" the issue. It either needs to be replaced or rebuilt. You can drive it as long as you want but be wary of the fact that eventually it will stop. Some have had it where the motor gradually dies out getting weaker and weaker making it harder and harder to start. Some just die on the highway. It's your risk to take. If you really wanna do research find a used motor out of a wreck and purchase it that way. It'll be somewhat cheaper. Still needs to be installed and since it's already used unless you get a compression test you really never know what your getting. Nothing about this car is cheap, so if 200 is upsetting you in all reality you might want to consider selling it. Not trying to be a dick just trying to get you some useful info.
05-21-2014, 09:41 AM
#3575
Senior Member
Well it is the 3 hoses is that part I am confused about. I want to use something I can insulate. It is something DIY, for I also have half a MS3 Mazdaspeed intake I wanted to use.