kallenthe8

ok kewl thanks man ... I was just confused... the way they were talking about it on the forum was as if they were getting the smell inside the car ...


oh and 1 more rather important question ... if say I bottomed out today leaving my yard on a half cut tree stump and broke the sensor on the cat. would that have any effect on the starting of the car or did I just flood the car when it stalled???

poacherinthezoo

A broken/non-functional post-cat O2 sensor won't affect the cars ability to start - mine starts everyday on the first spin with a constant P0420 code and sometimes a P0137 code (both of which relate to the post-cat O2 sensor not reading as the ECU is expecting it to). As you stated, it is likely the car flooded. This is indicative that SOMETHING in the ignition system (battery, starter, plugs, wires or coils) is dying/dead and needs to be replaced - the rotary should never flood (on a stock ECU tune). Time to start checking to see which component in your car is the weak link. My suggestion is to start with the battery since that is easiest to test and work from there. When was the last time you changed the spark plugs? wires? ignition coils? 30k is about the average life expectancy of the aforementioned parts. (But by all means, take the time to test the coils before throwing parts at the car.)

This is assuming the engine was cold when starting, if it was hot then it could be a compression issue.

If you're going to go with a mid-pipe in place of a cat you can just seal off the O2 sensor bung (with a spark-plug anti-fouler and an appropriately sized nut - $4 total) instead of buying a new sensor (which are about $120 for an OEM one last I checked).

EDIT: I'll add here that I changed the plugs, wires and coils when I first got my RX8 at 25k miles. I bring this up for 2 reasons, 1) changing them made a noticeable different in performance (specifically the plugs), and 2) I am not mechanically inclined (more along the lines of mechanically-retarded), and I firmly believe that if I can do it, anyone with a wrench and some spare time can.

kallenthe8

Ok kewl .... So it is just flooded and I gess I need to try a little more to get it going ... I'm haveing a lot of trouble getting it going again ... Does any1 have any tips ?? I read that sticking a lighter in there and burning the fuel would work but some how I feel like this is a bad idea ?? Opinions ......I've read up n how 2 fix the problem but it doesbt seem to b working ..... any tips would b appreciated ...

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Quoted from elsewhere, this is the deflooding procedure I recommend to new owners most, since it doesn't require any tools other than jump cables, and doesn't require knowing where anything is.

blckninja

iTrader: (1)

With the EPS on the 8, how much resistance should I be feeling? It seems to be that I'm getting anywhere between 10-20 lbs or resistance, sometimes less turning left and more turning right. I've cleaned the following connectors with contact cleaner and no difference.

Connectors by the battery harnerss, under the air intake, and the torque senser. The only one I haven't cleaned is the power steering motor connecter under the main pulley. Couldn't find it when I was doing the rest and didn't have the time to look. Could that last connecter possibly fix the issue?

edit: Also with the latest flash, it is normal for the car to crank 1-2 second before starting to prevent flooding correct? I thought I read this somewhere but can't find it. :|

Rx8 Dave

If the Godfather's quoted de-flooding method doesn't work (it's really, really flooded) try this:
★Locate "CIRCUIT" relay(#) in main relay/fuse box behind left head light. Its clearly marked on the underside of the lid. Remove relay.
★Locate & remove "EGI" fuse(*) located in the same relay/fuse box.
★Now there is no fuel being pumped into the engine & no spark.
★Remove spark plugs, make sure they are clean or, if over 25-30K miles on them, get new ones. (Also, make sure to replace coils (unless you have BHR coils)(+) & wires if they are also old)
★Connect jumper cables from your battery to another car battery exactly as the Rx8 Owners Manual states (no other way!) start the other car and keep it running.
★With plugs out, crank the engine & spray all the fuel out (might put a rag near the holes to catch the gas). The heavy misty fuel mix will dissapate the more you crank. Don't crank more than a few seconds, and let the starter rest 30 seconds or so between cranks to keep it from overheating and ruining your starter. Be safe about not having any flame/heat source near gas mist/fumes (including, without limitation, lighters, lit cigarettes, heaters, etc.)
★Once the fuel mist getting expelled is well under 10% of what was originally expelled, re-fit plugs, relay, fuse, & start the engine. If it starts, remove the jumper cables per Rx8 Owners Manual only! If the engine fails, take plugs back out & repeat process.
★Some people put a few drops of oil in the large (Leading) (L on engine block L= Leading) spark plug holes to help compression before trying to start the car, but I've started de-flooded engines without this.
# Circuit relay is a Mazda definition for the power to the main fuel pump
* EGI relay powers the ECU (Electronic Control Unit (computer)) No power = no spark
+ Black Halo Racing
★Keep well in mind what the Godfather (RIWWP) quoted about keeping in mind that you will need to determine why it flooded in the first place.

Rx8 Dave

BTW - wouldn't recommend using a lighter to burn the fuel; won't burn all that's in the engine if you're not turning the rotors; if cranking the engine, you would need to ignite the fuel coming from each of the two rotor housings; and, either way, you may have a fire that burns up everything around the exiting fuel. Unless you want to barbecue yourself and your car (and possibly not be covered by insurance to boot) don't even think about this stupid suggestion again.

Rx8 Dave

Seems too much resistance to me. I have very little. As you probably know, the control unit sometimes turns the system off by actuating a fail-safe relay in the power unit. This eliminates power assist, causing the system to revert back to manual steering.

The black overflow tube that comes off the Rx8 translucent coolant reservoir (in the front of the engine compartment that has the cap where you add coolant) is often too short (pull the black overflow tube up and out and you'll see how short it is) and sometimes coolant drips out of that tube down onto your electronic power steering unit connection. Follow the tube downward and below it until you see the EPS connector and check/clean this and see if that clears the problem.

In any event, install a longer tube so it goes to the very lowest point and so coolant doesn't drip on anything.

I'm not sure about the 1-2 second thing. Starting time may depend on whether you have an old starter or the updated starter. Mine takes just a bit less time to start than yours (not a big difference) and I have the updated starter. The update for the original '04 starter is supposed to help keep the engine from flooding. If you're curious about which starter you have, crawl under the driver side (maybe use a mirror) to see the top or upper side of the starter and if it reads "N3H1" on the sticker then it's the old starter - the new type starter will say "N3Z1" or "N3Z2".

Regardless of starter, I think the important thing to watch is to see if there is a difference between starting times when the engine is cold versus when its hot. If the starting times are the same 1-2 seconds cold and the same 1-2 seconds when the engine is hot I think you're OK as far as the engine itself is concerned.

I've answered from experience since the search engine failed me. The search engine on this forum site seems to have its own quirks - sometimes it goes right to parts of threads that are directly on point, right to the input topic, and sometimes just to endless bunches of unhelpful threads. I, like you, tried to look up the appropriate thread for your questions and just got the unhelpful latter bunch.

Rx8 Dave

Some thoughts: If there is no tire rubbing it would seem the 1.5"-2.0" below stock height is not the problem especially if you can stick a finger through the wheel gap. You should try tightening the top bolts / jam nuts and make sure everything else is tightened to spec. Make sure your preload is set correctly. I'm not sure - maybe spacers would help. Make sure the rear independent multi-link suspension doesn't have a problem, sounds almost like something's loose back there. Check the camber plates, and you should definitely get a new alignment - having the tech pay special attention to the rear camber and caster - you may need more negative camber on the offending side. Finally: the coils may be defective. Otherwise-

Rx8 Dave

Your throttle response should not change. You should have good response throughout. There are myriad reasons for a slow throttle response. Just a few of things to consider:
1) Check the intake tract for oil and clean the MAF sensor.
2) Check Spark Plugs and Replace if over 30K miles.
3) Check the Spark Plug Wires and Replace if over 30K miles.
4) Check the ignition coils and Replace if over 30K miles (unless BHR coils which shouldn't need changing).
5) Check and Change the Air Filter if Dirty.
6) Run a Can of BG 44k or similar through a Full Tank of Gas (fuel system, injector cleaner).
7) Check to assure your SSV (Secondary Shutter Valve) and VDI (Variable Dynamic Intake) Shutter are not sticking; how SSV works: trouble shoot VDI and SSV: .
8) Have your Catalytic Converter Checked - the cat may be clogged.
9) Do an NVRAM reset - Engine off, key position to ignition ON. After 20 Light Pumps of Brake Pedal within 8 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.
10) Use an OBD2 Data Reader (or have a Mechanic Check) to take a Look at what the various Throttle Position Sensor Outputs are as you Move the Pedal. It should help indicate if one of those is the problem vs an ECU (computer) problem. Maybe a Resistor for one of the Throttle Pedal Position Sensors got Damaged.
11) Check, or Have a Tech Check, or replace, the Throttle Body. Also check the Wiring to the Throttle Body; could be a Bad Solenoid.
12) Have the ECU Checked.
13) Have a Compression Test done by Mazda.
14) Some tests can be found at M A Z D A.
15) Good Luck!

Rx8 Dave

I have been THINKING...maybe...I may want to remove the chrome badges, insignia, "Mazda" name and/ or "Rx8", etc., off my '04 Nordic Green Sport. Not sure...but factors I've been thinking about: anyone know - (1) do these chrome thingies have posts on their backsides that poke into holes in the bodywork that I'll need to try to repair, or are they glued on? (2) If glued on, how hard are they to remove? and (3) What is the recommended (by you or Mazda, or whomever) procedure to get these chrome thingies off without screwing up the paint (the Nordic Green with the clear coat is not the easiest to patch)? Thanks for any and all help / ideas!

Rx8 Dave

^ Well, I found a thread that read that some had posts and some didn't, but would like verification, plus the best way to deal with the problems of removal and repair.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The Mazda emblems have pins and holes ( i think?)....as does the Mazda lettering on the trunk ( I know )

The RX-8 on the trunk is just stuck on with double sided tape ( I know )

You can use a plastic fishing line and a couple of sticks to remove ..or carefully use a heat gun and a plastic spatula...just don't scratch the paint

zambrock

My RX-8 is overheating. I checked the oil level and its right under the very bottom mark on the dipstick. Could this be the reason?

Williard

iTrader: (18)

Overheating is no joke for this car. First off if it's just below the bottom mark your oil is low and you should seriously add some oil. As a matter of fact just go ahead and do an oil change. While your under there i would suggest checking your coolant. Possibly a leak? If not i would suggest replacing the thermostat for starters.
Also..
overheating - RX8Club.com - Threads Tagged with overheating
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...g-help-232073/

I see your a new member, does that mean your a new 8 owner? You do know these cars use oil right, And that you have to add it every so often. It's recommended to check your oil at least every 2 fill ups.

Hope it helps.
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Yep... let's throw parts at it that it may or may not need

Maybe read the threads he suggested and figure out what is wrong before you buy anything

Williard

iTrader: (18)

I suggested the oil change due to him running that low on oil for an undisclosed amount of time. I suggested searching for a coolant leak as well as having coolant BEFORE i said about the thermostat. So at which time did i say throw useless parts?

Rx8 Dave

Thanks , dennobre

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Who said useless. ... just diagnose before parts. . Saves a lot of time and money

Rx8 Dave

Thanks, Dennobre, can count on you!

Rx8 Dave

Thanks Dennobre, you always com through!

Rx8 Dave

A CEL WOULD BE GREAT Help, and more detail, but here goes - IAT SENSOR: (Intake Air Temp): Tells computer temperature inside intake to gauge how much gas injectors produce. Drivers side almost at back intake manifold - The IAT (Intake Air Temp) is part of the same housing as the MAF. Generally, you just clean them both with contact cleaner or MAF cleaner that you can pick up at your local Autozone here Gos:
I would keep the oil above the bottom mark.Oil helps cool the engines.Whether you have a SOHN adapter or straight mod,the engine eats oil and you have to keep up with It.

Check out all coolers, condenser, oil, etc.

Is your coolant reservoir's full with distilled water and the appropriate amount of coolant set forth in your Owners Maual?

Ho about around 14oz of R134a and about 2 oz of PAG 46 oil (DENSO 8 oil) in your A/C ? .

Check yo see your MAP sensor has been serviced (just spray MAS sensor liquid in there and let try without touching the MAF : A mass air flow sensor is used to find out the mass flowrate of air entering a fuel-injected internal combustion engine. The air mass information is necessary for the engine control unit to balance and deliver the correct fuel mass to the engine. To Clean: Also, clean the IAT SENSOR: (Intake Air Temp): Tells computer temperature inside intake to gauge how much gas injectors produce. Drivers side almost at back intake manifold - The IAT (Intake Air Temp) is part of the same housing as the MAF. Generally, you just clean them both with contact cleaner or MAF cleaner that you can pick up at your local Autozone

Anything interfering with your intake accordions: oil often gets In there specially if you don't have a catch can vented to the outside.

Makevsure you have updated spark plugs (correct) in the appropriate holes and up appropriate coils.(especially HHR (Bloch Holo Racing)

Make sure the fans are operating (s-1 have two speeds, s-2 have three speeds.

iINJECTORS (fuel): Cleaner - BG44K by BG. Good ratings. change your oil after its running smoother

INSTRUMENTS: check: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...utputs-155947/

A further Summary:
Improper Coolant Level Blown Fuses Coolant Leakage
Excessive A/C system pressure A/C system operation is improper
Improper water/anti-freeze mixture Fans Reverse Rotation....HUH??
Cooling Air Passage to Radiator Blockage Poor Radiator Condition
Thermostat Malfunction Radiator Hose Damage
Improper or Damaged Radiator Cap Cooling Fans are Inoperative
Coolant Overflow system Malfunction Improper Tension of Drive Belts
Drive Belt damage Eccentric Shaft Bypass Valve Malfunction (stuck closed)

Others:
COMPRESSION: A healthy engine should start as fast hot as cold. There shouldn't be an appreciable difference. A 1 second difference is easily noticeable without a timer. An engine that cold starts in 1 second but hot starts in 3 is an engine with compression problems, where as an engine that cold starts in 4 seconds but hot starts in 4.5 just has a starter problem. Compression Number each face, each rotor: 6.9 @250rpm as the minimum, at or around 120psi.

Hhere's a bulb on ecpxtended Life: EXTEND ENGINE LIFE: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...2/#post3411503

Fet the latest a flash for your vehicle.

Flashes and Reset ECu:
★New Flash: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...6/#post1019192 Say "Contacted Mazda tech line, reference "Chuck" or whoever - Recommended flash a/c system" The reflash of the A/C system lengthens the duty cycle of the compressor, so there is less cycling from cold to luke warm. Go and complain. Tell your service rep to have the tech call Mazda tech line and ask about the a/c flash, it's that easy. The tech will do it, they will find it (it's there) and they will download it and flash it, I figure another few months and you won't even have to do that, dealers will know about it and do it. My invoice said "Called mazda tech line, reference chuck. Recommend flash a/c system, a/c system flashed functioning at 40f, operation ok at this time." Dealer knew everything about it and it took them a little while to find it. If blow temp is indeed 40 deg, the amp is well within the acceptable range of Mazda specs. If you can verify it is actually above 46 deg, you could argue for a replacement. Also, ?TSB/flash update that delays the AC cutoff rpm point so it doesn't kick off so easily during semi-spirited driving (what most RX-8 owners would call normal)?
★Re-program Amplifier (below): https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...e-help-197412/
Some customers may complain of lack of AC cooling from the vents. This may be caused by the intake air selector (recirculate / fresh) in the "FRESH" mode. Cooling the interior of the vehicle may take longer if the air intake selector is in the "FRESH" mode. Maximum cooling is achieved when the intake air selector mode is in the "RECIRC" position. The AC amplifier can be programmed to automatically default to "RECIRC" mode when the following conditions are met:
1. Ambient air temperature is 68 deg. F or higher.
2. HVAC control mode is in "FACE" mode.
3. HVAC temperature is in maximum cool setting. Customers with this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the repair procedure. NOTE: Vehicles produced before 9/11/2003 are not programmable and should have the AC amp replaced per Service Bulletin # 07-002/04
1. Verify concern.
2. Verify ignition switch is in OFF position.
3. Press and hold the front defrost and air intake selector buttons simultaneously.
4. Turn the ignition key to the "ACC" position for 3 seconds. (Continue to hold the buttons down from step #3.)
5. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position for 3 seconds. (Continue to hold the buttons down from step #4.)
6. Successful programming will be confirmed by the rear defrost indicator light flashing 3 times. NOTE: If vehicle's battery dies or cables are removed, the programming will not be retained and must be performed again.
Note: This programming change is not persistent. If the battery is fully discharged or disconnected the procedure needs to be repeated to re-enable the settings.
NOTE: Vehicles produced before 9/11/2003 (VIN: JM1FE17**40 000001-118171) are not programmable and should have the AC amp replaced per Service Bulletin # 07-002/04

Compressor trouble shoot/ replace: You can also visually see the compressor spin when the ac is turned on, that way you can know whether your compressor is turning on or not. Have you tried to spin your AC compressor wheel? If possible go out and see if you can spin it, try and spin the outside disc not the pulley itself. That is the part that spins the actual compressor and if it wont spin then you probably have a failed one. If it turns on and is shooting hot air, then it probably means you just need a recharge. If it doesn't spin when you turn the ac on, then your compressor might be gone. You should take it to a place that specializes on ac systems. The autozone near me did not have a set of these gauges. You can pick up a set at harbor freight for $55 AC Gauges - Save on this AC Manifold Gauge Set . These will tell you what the system has in it and can also aid in figuring out if your compressor died. Once you figure out if your system is still charged or not and whatever the problem is check craigslist for an AC person. I got a system recharged out here for $60 by someone working out of their homes garage with a nice AC system. Mechanic says that if I'm clamping both the heater hoses and that is allowing the AC to blow cold then it might be "blend door actuator". https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...roblem-231757/ and https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...stions-218885/ and Need TSB for A/C Compressor removal - RX8Club.com

Finally, note this:Insulate AC tubes: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...lder-ac-42322/ : Thermo-Tec : Heat Sleeves or pipe Insulation from Lowes/Home Depot. Wrapping the lines may give you colder A/C but you also risk freezing up the EVAP core. This system should have a post EVAP temperature sensor. This will cause the A/C to cycle more often and creating more stress and load on the A/C system. When the HVAC module monitors the EVAP temperature, if it sees near freezing, it will start to pulse the compressor on and off to alleviate an EVAP freeze up condition. If you were to open the hood of your car and remove the engine cover there is a a tube that is used to bring cold air into the cab of the car. The motor produces heat (especially a rotary) and will heat up the outside of this line hence heating the air that has been cooled. By insulating the tube you are helping retain the coldness of the AC. Most of this pipe is already insulated by a foam type of insulation from the factory, so not a large portion of the tube needs to be covered. The reason you want to wrap the line leaving the evaporator is because the refrigerant that has left the evaporator has changed from liquid to a gaseous state and any more heat added to the suction line to the compressor causes the gas to gain heat from engine compartment which is unfavorable(superheated gas) which screws up the efficiency of the cooling system and its that extra added heat that will have to be removed by the condenser coil up front...So a good wrap of insulation to this suction line is important. If you are going to insulate I would do both lines - to prevent the "hot pipe" from picking up more heat from the engine compartment BEFORE it enters the cabin on the car. I would think insulating THAT PIPE would have more effect than isulating the line that is coming FROM the cabin. since Mazda does insulate the bulk of the line from the condenser to the compressor, it seems reasonable that this exposed metal line could cause degradation of AC efficiency on very hot days, especially if air flow rates are reduced. Advance auto parts sell cool tape . But it only goes up to 400f.. Degrees. $18.00 a roll 15 ft. Just be sure the tie part is not sticking up as I might get in the way of putting the engine cover back on. Not sure how close the cover is to that rear AC hose but one might want to keep the lock tie part to the side facing front of the car. Its a good idea though and makes sense as the engine sure puts out tons of heat. Pic
+ Part numbers for the Temp control dial is FE62-61-195 and Fan control is FE61-61-195. Not sure if those part numbers are for the actual controls though or are just for the plastic dial itself.
★ Compressor trouble shoot/ replace: You can also visually see the compressor spin when the ac is turned on, that way you can know whether your compressor is turning on or not. Have you tried to spin your AC compressor wheel? If possible go out and see if you can spin it, try and spin the outside disc not the pulley itself. That is the part that spins the actual compressor and if it wont spin then you probably have a failed one. If it turns on and is shooting hot air, then it probably means you just need a recharge. If it doesn't spin when you turn the ac on, then your compressor might be gone. You should take it to a place that specializes on ac systems. The autozone near me did not have a set of these gauges. You can pick up a set at harbor freight for $55 AC Gauges - Save on this AC Manifold Gauge Set . These will tell you what the system has in it and can also aid in figuring out if your compressor died. Once you figure out if your system is still charged or not and whatever the problem is check craigslist for an AC person. I got a system recharged out here for $60 by someone working out of their homes garage with a nice AC system. Mechanic says that if I'm clamping both the heater hoses and that is allowing the AC to blow cold then it might be "blend door actuator". https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...roblem-231757/ and https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...stions-218885/ and https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...emoval-213793/
+Control ***** Need Replace: https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...ac-control-pdf
★ Replace Bad A/C Amplifier: https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...ck-cooling-pdf
★ Do NOT Use Improper Refrigerant or Compressor Oil: https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...erant-2011-pdf

I know this is a lot - if you can narrow your problem more complete ply, let me know.

catchb52

I have had my 2005 RX for a couple of years. This is the first sports car I have had that has tthese systems. I have had other sports cars, and have done enough autocrosses to be comfortable with my driving skills.

When I push the RX in corners and hit minor imperfections in the road, the car will "hop", like the car is correcting for what I assume is a tire slip. This constant correcting makes it difficult to set the steering for the curve.

I have tried it with the DSC off and with the DSC and TC off. It still seems to be correcting. Light is showing both are off. Time for a dealer visit, or is this the way the car works?

PS. No error codes are showing up. Car has 42,000 miles. 6 speed.

Appreciate your input.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Have you checked the shocks and end links? It shouldn't hop over bumps enough to be that unsettling.....

If a shock is blown you can get a baby buggy like bounce


As for 2 Posts above. .. Dave WTF are you trying to do. . Confuse the poor guy. There are some good tips buried in all that. .. but they are hard to find even if you know what to look for

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Sounds mechanical, not a DSC activation. The curve tracks symbol will be flashing if the DSC is activating. The activation sounds entirely like an ABS activation (since that is what it is doing) just on one wheel, usually a rear wheel. It can be abrupt, depending on the circumstances, but it shouldn't 'hop'.

And turning off the system would definitely produce a difference.