Legot

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know the size of the barb connector that comes on the Shon OMP adapter from RotaryAviation?

Aston177

Thanks everyone. Yes I tightened the two nuts. Still no difference. I tightened them with the car's front wheels jacked up and the wheels removed. Should I tighten them without jacking the car up? How tight do they have to be?

I greased the bushings. It was making a weird rattling, sorta fait popping sound when going over rough surfaces and that pretty much stopped completely. But it still makes a fairly loud "pop" when I go over a pothole

The pic I attached, with the sway bar end links circled in red, those ARE the sway bar end links, right? I went to Pepboys today and showed them the pic and they said it's not the sway bar end links. They said it's the lateral end links or something :/ anyways, they didn't have the real mazda parts. But they had the end links for $33 each before tax. What should I do?

Williard

iTrader: (18)

Those are the sway bar end links also called stabilizer bar links and im sure a few other things.

Are the ones they have Beck Arnley?

I've had a few pairs on various vehicles, they have been good to me. Including the set that was on the RX8.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Check to see if the heat shield around the cat is intact. They will sometimes rust through along the edges and at certain times vibrate or rattle.
You can buy large hose clamps or combine several smaller ones and tighten them around the shield to fix it if that is a problem.

Aston177

I will check the heat shield. Thanks for that

I didn't ask for the brand. Will call them up first thing in the morning. You think they'll have OEM brake pads for our cars? I was thinking of buying all 4 as mine are pretty worn.

Rx8 Dave

I used 1/4" inside diameter clear Chemfluor® PFA Tubing on my Sohn.

Aston177

Under car noise is gone! Tightening the nuts near the CAT worked!! Thanks everyone :D

Legot

iTrader: (1)

Awesome, that's what I was planning on using. Thanks!

kallenthe8

Hey guys .... I'm trying to fi d a certain. Spencer switch thing ... It's the switch that stops fuel flow when Uve bn in an axident ... I think it's in the front passenger side of the center console right ?? Under the carpet piece ?? I am just wanting to b sure b4 I start tearing stuff up out of the car ... :'( ... Ganna check and c if this is y my car won't start after smashing the **** out of that stump.... Oh and does the little red button need to b in or out for it to b operating correctly ...thanks fellas

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

daint know our cars had one. i know in older cars its in the trunk. never saw one in the trunk which ive gutted several times to work on my car

Glenn09

So...I did the rear brakes on my 8 today and have a tiny problem...they don't work. When I was screwing the cylinder back in on the right side the gasket sort of got caught on the edges of the cylinder where the key goes and pulled it out a little bit and in order to get the gasket back in place I unscrewed the cylinder completely and put the gasket back in place and screwed it back in. Next I bled the lines (both L and R rear). I can depress the brakes all the way to the ground and nothing happens (car won't stop). The E brake works though. I know the left side works because when the car is running and the rear is jacked up and I press the brakes, I cannot turn the left wheel but I can turn the right. HELP

poacherinthezoo

If the pedal goes to the floor without stopping the car, I would look into the front brakes - as they are responsible for most of the braking force.

Glenn09

Even if I didn't touch them? I only did a rear brake job

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Did you have a specific problem that led you to do just the rears?
If one side works & the other doesn't then air in the system is not likely.
I would say more likely it's mechanical, since the one you're having problems with is the one you took apart. The piston could be jammed.
Are you sure the slide bolts are secure?

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Also, you seem to have conflicting statements.
Is the pedal literally going to the floor?(ground?)
If so then there probably is air still in the system & the left rear should not be working either.
Or did you mean you pressed the pedal as far as it would go without actually going to the floor?

kallenthe8

Hey ... I had a small accident where my cross member under th car caught a stump in my driveway ... Hit really hard about 10mph ... No airbags deployed ... Wondering if a fuel cut off switched could have bn tripped because the car will run when ether sprayed into intake but it won't crank and stay running on its own

Rx8 Dave

Before you concentrate on the fuel cut off, go through this list:
The process is:
1: Key in
2: Clutch in
3: clutch sensor closes the circuit allowing start
4: Key to start
5: Starting relay opens, providing power to the starter from the battery
6: Battery power cranks over the starter motor
7: Starter motor spins the engine through the flywheel
8: Ignition opens
9: Coils get power, begin generating spark current
10: Wires transmit the current to the plugs
11: Plugs begin to spark
12: Fuel pump begins pumping
13: Engine standard compression and combustion should occur
It is possible for a no-start condition to be due to a failure at any one of the above points.

If it appears to be the fuel cut off, even a minor accident can set it off. In the past it has been written on this forum that "There is a safety cut-off, but there is no "switch" to turn it back on. There is no real answers on how to release the trigger yet." You can see some information at https://www.rx8club.com/esp_search.p...witch&type=gcs. However, most cars do have a rest button (for example, How to Reset a Fuel Pump Shut Off Switch | eHow) and I believe that there must be a way to reset it, either through a button or resetting the ECU.
Bottom line...give your Mazda dealer a call and they should be able to tell you how to reset the cut off.
Keep us posted as to what you find out for future questions about this.

ronnydingding

If you took the piston all the way out you will have air in the system . Bleed the brakes.

badinfluence

Obviously BHR is the best, but I was wondering about another midpipe I found. The Corksport one is flipping 250! If I left it with the stock cat back, do you think it is to much to get in trouble on, or "just right"

https://www.corksport.com/corksport-...e-for-rx8.html

Aston177

Quick question.
I gutted my cat a while back and I disconnected the oxygen sensor. I left the plug just hanging there. Would driving in the rain or washing the underbody mess things up?

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

You left the O2 sensor harness just hanging? Yes it could cause a short to your electrical system if you get it wet. Out of curiosity, why did you remove the o2 sensor anyway?

Glenn09

I'm due for inspection this month and my mechanic said I needed new rear brakes so I only did the rears.

Glenn09

Also I was able to push the pedal allll the way down. I have since bled the lines a different way and now they work much better but still not 100%. About the first 35% of pushing the brake pedal does nothing to stop the car. The remaining 65% work very well and strongly as they normally would. I talked to my mechanic and he said that I might not have lines up the part on the brake that is on the inside (meets the cylinder) correctly and that's why they aren't working fully.
Iwhen I did the brakes I removed the little metal piece that is a cover of some sort(?) off of the pad and put it onto the new one. The cover that meets the cylinder has a single bump out. Is that bump supposed to lock into a part on the cylinder to ensure correct alignment?

kallenthe8

Thanks rx8 Dave ... Lots of good info . There ... I'm off tommarros so I'll b checking it out then u the **** bro

Glenn09

I attached 2 pictures. This is on the REAR brakes after about 75 miles of driving. There is a ton of brake dust on the rims. This is more than I've ever seen on my rears. Also on the rotors you can see that the full rotor is not being utilized. I don't think it can be the new pads that are wrong because I took the metal protectors for all 4 old pads and moved them onto these new pads and they fit exactly right. I am going to basically take it all apart and put it back together. Hopefully that might help? I don't know. This phenomenon is happening on both sides of the rear so I know that both cylinders are working and being used but I don't know why the pads aren't covering the whole rotor. Everything was bolted back into place