Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
08-15-2014, 07:03 AM
#3876
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I got pics 
a few questions if you guys don't mind.
1) These are how my oil coolers look like. I had to take off the shrouds. I will try to put them back on and shave off where it hits the bumper.
2) And that's how my under tray is. Could that side under tray not lining up with the center under tray increase temps?
3) I looked around and found that there are these "walls" on the side to channel air into the radiator. They don't go all the way up to the bumper. To there's a gap between the walls and the bumper. Maybe the new bumper is farther towards the front. Could this be the main cause here? Air escaping from there?
4) I also had to remove those 2 regiforms that I've circled in red. I couldn't fit the new bumper with them on. Could that cause air to escape?
5) I didn't have the proper brackets to fit the new bumper. I got two pieces of metal to hold the bumper in place. And to do that, I had to remove the big metal plate that runs along the edge of the bumper, the plastic panel that covers it and and the rubber beading that runs along where the hood and the bumper meets. The air intake is right below it. Can I drive around like this in the rain? Would water go into the intake and cause issues? I've attached a pic of what I'm talking about.
Thank you so much.
a few questions if you guys don't mind.1) These are how my oil coolers look like. I had to take off the shrouds. I will try to put them back on and shave off where it hits the bumper.
2) And that's how my under tray is. Could that side under tray not lining up with the center under tray increase temps?
3) I looked around and found that there are these "walls" on the side to channel air into the radiator. They don't go all the way up to the bumper. To there's a gap between the walls and the bumper. Maybe the new bumper is farther towards the front. Could this be the main cause here? Air escaping from there?
4) I also had to remove those 2 regiforms that I've circled in red. I couldn't fit the new bumper with them on. Could that cause air to escape?
5) I didn't have the proper brackets to fit the new bumper. I got two pieces of metal to hold the bumper in place. And to do that, I had to remove the big metal plate that runs along the edge of the bumper, the plastic panel that covers it and and the rubber beading that runs along where the hood and the bumper meets. The air intake is right below it. Can I drive around like this in the rain? Would water go into the intake and cause issues? I've attached a pic of what I'm talking about.
Thank you so much.
08-15-2014, 07:46 AM
#3877
Senior Member
I got pics a few questions if you guys don't mind.
1) These are how my oil coolers look like. I had to take off the shrouds. I will try to put them back on and shave off where it hits the bumper.
2) And that's how my under tray is. Could that side under tray not lining up with the center under tray increase temps?
3) I looked around and found that there are these "walls" on the side to channel air into the radiator. They don't go all the way up to the bumper. To there's a gap between the walls and the bumper. Maybe the new bumper is farther towards the front. Could this be the main cause here? Air escaping from there?
4) I also had to remove those 2 regiforms that I've circled in red. I couldn't fit the new bumper with them on. Could that cause air to escape?
5) I didn't have the proper brackets to fit the new bumper. I got two pieces of metal to hold the bumper in place. And to do that, I had to remove the big metal plate that runs along the edge of the bumper, the plastic panel that covers it and and the rubber beading that runs along where the hood and the bumper meets. The air intake is right below it. Can I drive around like this in the rain? Would water go into the intake and cause issues? I've attached a pic of what I'm talking about.
Thank you so much.
a few questions if you guys don't mind.1) These are how my oil coolers look like. I had to take off the shrouds. I will try to put them back on and shave off where it hits the bumper.
2) And that's how my under tray is. Could that side under tray not lining up with the center under tray increase temps?
3) I looked around and found that there are these "walls" on the side to channel air into the radiator. They don't go all the way up to the bumper. To there's a gap between the walls and the bumper. Maybe the new bumper is farther towards the front. Could this be the main cause here? Air escaping from there?
4) I also had to remove those 2 regiforms that I've circled in red. I couldn't fit the new bumper with them on. Could that cause air to escape?
5) I didn't have the proper brackets to fit the new bumper. I got two pieces of metal to hold the bumper in place. And to do that, I had to remove the big metal plate that runs along the edge of the bumper, the plastic panel that covers it and and the rubber beading that runs along where the hood and the bumper meets. The air intake is right below it. Can I drive around like this in the rain? Would water go into the intake and cause issues? I've attached a pic of what I'm talking about.
Thank you so much.
I have an R3 and I see 2 major problems here, and a suggestion. The R3 bumper kind of sucks to start with for feeding air to the radiator. There is that little hole at the bottom for making air flow into the engine bay. Personally I think I am going to dremel that hole by those grille things and make it at least twice as big as it is now.
They redesigned the cross member radiator area so maybe look into what they changed so it fits properly there.
I noticed you are also missing the upper plastics that go near the hood release mechanism. They make look like they don't do much but they keep the radiator air from leaking out right there. There is also something similar near the intake so the intake doesn't suck up all the air around the radiator flow design.
Mazda made the most of that little opening on the R3 I have to say, but it is not meant to sit more than a few minutes period...
If it where me, I would:
Seal around the radiator, make that opening bigger in the bumper, add a screen mesh on the oil coolers, and opening on that radiator area, add oil cooler fans, increase your OMP and add the SOHN adapter, and maybe rewire your Fans on your radiator so they are always high. That is in the first 100 dollar mods.
The last thing I would do is buy a aluminium under-tray, and make a shroud/duct that goes directly from the radiator hole to the radiator inside the bumper. that will force the heat out and keep it separate from the intake and oil coolers.
The AEM intake with some thermal barriers around the intake piping would also be a good idea because it will help with the primary oil cooling.
The coolant's job is to help the oil as the secondary cooling system. When the oil isn't cooling properly more coolant strain is noticed. If you increase the oil cooling efficacy it will decrease the strain on the secondary cooling systems. Like I said 2 cycle motor oil and increase the OMP cycles. Maybe once you have done that run synthetic oil, but not before. I wish I could do this on the 2nd gen, but I have a different omp....
The changes look cosmetic from the S1 to S2, but they really did a ton of work optimizing the airflow on it, and creating channeling baffles in that bumper area.
08-16-2014, 02:58 AM
#3878
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Thanks for that awesome explanation badinfluence.
What hole are you talking about? Do you mean the triangle at the bottom of the bumper? That's what mod people call the "lip" I think. I couldn't fit it because the mounting points of the lip and the bumper didn't line up properly. I will have to drill the bumper to match the mounting points of the lip. Or vice versa.
What cross member are we talking about? You mean where the white regiform fits? The panels look the same. Only the regiform has changed. I had to remove those 2 big round pieces of regiform to make it fit. But I'm thinking of putting them back on and cutting them to match the stock R3 regiform's shape.
The plastics near the hood release mechanism had to go because below the plastic and the beading lies a steel panel. The mounting points of that panel didn't line up with the R3 bumper. So I got a piece of metal and made 2 small brackets to hold the bumper in place. Because of that, I couldn't put the plastic cover on top. I'll have to cut the plastic cover where the metal brackets are.
Would having that plastic cover alone be enough to stop the air from escaping or do I need that metal panel as well?
I think I have the covers below the intake. That shouldn't be a problem.
I washed my car last night and I popped the hood. I saw my intake completely wet. The intake and front cross member were completely wet. I think it's because I don't have those plastic panels and beadings in place. But even with them on, I'm sure it gets wet when driving in the rain. Is that intake duct supposed to get wet when it's raining?
What hole are you talking about? Do you mean the triangle at the bottom of the bumper? That's what mod people call the "lip" I think. I couldn't fit it because the mounting points of the lip and the bumper didn't line up properly. I will have to drill the bumper to match the mounting points of the lip. Or vice versa.
What cross member are we talking about? You mean where the white regiform fits? The panels look the same. Only the regiform has changed. I had to remove those 2 big round pieces of regiform to make it fit. But I'm thinking of putting them back on and cutting them to match the stock R3 regiform's shape.
The plastics near the hood release mechanism had to go because below the plastic and the beading lies a steel panel. The mounting points of that panel didn't line up with the R3 bumper. So I got a piece of metal and made 2 small brackets to hold the bumper in place. Because of that, I couldn't put the plastic cover on top. I'll have to cut the plastic cover where the metal brackets are.
Would having that plastic cover alone be enough to stop the air from escaping or do I need that metal panel as well?
I think I have the covers below the intake. That shouldn't be a problem.
I washed my car last night and I popped the hood. I saw my intake completely wet. The intake and front cross member were completely wet. I think it's because I don't have those plastic panels and beadings in place. But even with them on, I'm sure it gets wet when driving in the rain. Is that intake duct supposed to get wet when it's raining?
08-17-2014, 08:59 AM
#3881
Registered
08-18-2014, 09:00 AM
#3882
Senior Member
Thanks for that awesome explanation badinfluence.
What hole are you talking about? Do you mean the triangle at the bottom of the bumper? That's what mod people call the "lip" I think. I couldn't fit it because the mounting points of the lip and the bumper didn't line up properly. I will have to drill the bumper to match the mounting points of the lip. Or vice versa.
What cross member are we talking about? You mean where the white regiform fits? The panels look the same. Only the regiform has changed. I had to remove those 2 big round pieces of regiform to make it fit. But I'm thinking of putting them back on and cutting them to match the stock R3 regiform's shape.
The plastics near the hood release mechanism had to go because below the plastic and the beading lies a steel panel. The mounting points of that panel didn't line up with the R3 bumper. So I got a piece of metal and made 2 small brackets to hold the bumper in place. Because of that, I couldn't put the plastic cover on top. I'll have to cut the plastic cover where the metal brackets are.
Would having that plastic cover alone be enough to stop the air from escaping or do I need that metal panel as well?
I think I have the covers below the intake. That shouldn't be a problem.
I washed my car last night and I popped the hood. I saw my intake completely wet. The intake and front cross member were completely wet. I think it's because I don't have those plastic panels and beadings in place. But even with them on, I'm sure it gets wet when driving in the rain. Is that intake duct supposed to get wet when it's raining?
What hole are you talking about? Do you mean the triangle at the bottom of the bumper? That's what mod people call the "lip" I think. I couldn't fit it because the mounting points of the lip and the bumper didn't line up properly. I will have to drill the bumper to match the mounting points of the lip. Or vice versa.
What cross member are we talking about? You mean where the white regiform fits? The panels look the same. Only the regiform has changed. I had to remove those 2 big round pieces of regiform to make it fit. But I'm thinking of putting them back on and cutting them to match the stock R3 regiform's shape.
The plastics near the hood release mechanism had to go because below the plastic and the beading lies a steel panel. The mounting points of that panel didn't line up with the R3 bumper. So I got a piece of metal and made 2 small brackets to hold the bumper in place. Because of that, I couldn't put the plastic cover on top. I'll have to cut the plastic cover where the metal brackets are.
Would having that plastic cover alone be enough to stop the air from escaping or do I need that metal panel as well?
I think I have the covers below the intake. That shouldn't be a problem.
I washed my car last night and I popped the hood. I saw my intake completely wet. The intake and front cross member were completely wet. I think it's because I don't have those plastic panels and beadings in place. But even with them on, I'm sure it gets wet when driving in the rain. Is that intake duct supposed to get wet when it's raining?
help airflow, but hurt air velocity (required to hit radiator)
If you aren't sealing the air properly you are basically destroying the car by not cooling it down properly. That area where the radiator is, is also where the RX8 pulls cold IATs from, so if it is sitting there baking itself, you will be baking your intake temps too.
I would focus on improving your cooling system, then start the task of trying to dick around with the airflow. Like I said before, some Thin aluminium bent in the shape of a U straight from that air opening past those oil cooler plastic air dam things. Then replace the under tray with the Aluminium one. For extra points, coat the top faces with ceramic coating so it keeps engine heat outside of the cold air area.
Also keep in mind that air is pushing on the bumper, without that rigidity and shock absorbency of those foam "regiforms" the bumper will flex and flop around. You want that bumper tight and as close to stock distance from the cross-member as you can. I was going to take my bumper off an measure it for you, but I had to take my car to get the eBrake looked at.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-di...nstall-201948/
This thread has some good picks of the R3 front bumper area.
http://www.aemintakes.com/instructio...1-485_inst.pdf
That has some comparison pics.
Don't rely on those plastic panels to hold **** for airflow on the bottom. They flop around bad. On my MS3 they flopped so bad they literally disappeared......leaving only sections around the 4 bolts.
ANY gap in that bumper and you are leaking air around that radiator. You should be able to spray water in the opening and have no spray pass into the engine bay or the intake area. The function of those ones at the top is to block the air from coming up under pressure (moving) and to keep the air inside the radiator dam/trap.
I can't see for certain, but those regiforms are both different. I wonder if you got the ones for the R3 if it would help your quest at all.
The front crossmember is foamfilled instead of solid or hollow, I believe it is talking about the front bumper. I don't know what the S1 is normally.
Mazda RX-8 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
So basically , you need to completely have a seal from that air opening at the bottom to the radiator and intake horn. I honestly thing building an upside down U shaped air dam is the best way to do that without modifying anymore than you have. You can also tie it to the bumper's back face to increase the strength of the bumper so it doesn't flex without the right mounting hardware.
Here is another idea that few people understand. Shipping Foam. Watch how shipping foam is filled for custom molded packages. It is essentially a plastic bag with that foam that expands into the shape of the part being shipped. So here is a redneck way I figured out to do the same thing.
Black Plastic contractor bags.
Foam Filler for House gaps.
GREAT STUFF Big Gap Filler Insulating Foam Sealant 16 oz.-248314 at The Home Depot
1.Mold the plastic bag to the part you want to make by forming a mold out of wood or just holding it with your hands.
2. Spray a little in the bag to test it's expansion. Remember to much will be a problem, to little won't do anything, so if you do to little you can always add as long as you don't block the hose.
3. Mold the part, and let it harden overnight. Remove the plastic bag or leave it. Cut away any excess and you have yourself a foam mold. If you remove the bag, paint it black. You could use this trick to mold foam walls around the bumper, and insulate that air dam from the rest of the car. Make sure that stuff isn't near the oil coolers. Plastic bags ARE flammable, so be careful not to get them near anything hot.
You could mold those parts that don't fit right, and while your at it, restore the airflow and improve it beyond what a stock R3 would have. Just be careful with that foam, it does NOT come off easily, especially skin. Hints the plastic bags.
NOTICE: I HAVE NO IDEA IF THAT FOAM IS FLAMMABLE, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
08-18-2014, 09:17 AM
#3883
I've got a question, has anyone ever tried to claim a new engine under one of those oil manufacturers supposed warranties, like "use our engine oil and we guarentee your engine for life"?
08-18-2014, 09:24 AM
#3884
Senior Member
I had a salesman trying to sell me an R3 with that claim, and I was like umm I want in it writing that you will accept responsibility if they reject it. Guess what, they wouldn't. That dealer was a joke to start with.
08-18-2014, 04:20 PM
#3886
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08-18-2014, 04:59 PM
#3887
Wankler
Aftermarket Deck Change Display Clock, etc.
DOOtz, the display is usually controlled by the kit you use to install the deck, not the deck itself. I have a METRA kit that is pretty common. If your installation is different, you need to find out the manufacturer (if you can't get in touch with the person who sold you the car, you might have to pull the unit including the A/C controls and look on the back) and Google it - most manufacturers have instructions on their website or you can call them. Try this: Press and hold the A/C Mode button to scroll through the various kit options (AMB TEMP ON or OFF, AMB TEMP C or F, SET TIME 12/24H, and SET TEXT). 2. When you see the option you want just let the button go and the action on the screen will be performed. (ie: To turn the ambient temperature on you would scroll through until the display says “AMB TEMP ON” and let the button go.) 3. To set the time hold down the A/C Mode button until the display says “SET TIME 12/24H” then let the button go. 4. To switch between 12H and 24H press the front defrost button to the left of the A/C Mode button. 5. To change the Hour press the rear defrost button to the right of the A/C Mode button. 6. To change the minute press the A/C button at the top of the A/C Mode button. 7. At any time if you do not press any buttons for 5-seconds the display will save and return to the default screen and the climate control buttons will return to their normal configuration. 8. If you hold the A/C Mode button down long enough the display will say “SET TEXT”. This will allow you customize the default text on the display. 9. Once the display says “SET TEXT” let go and the first letter of the display will begin blinking. 10. Press the front defrost button to move the cursor left and the rear defrost button to move the cursor to the right. 11. You can scroll up with the A/C button and down with the Recirc/Fresh button through the various alpha, numeric, and symbol characters. 12. When you are finished entering your text if you do not press any buttons for 5-seconds the display will save and return to the default screen and the climate control buttons will return to their normal configuration. Hope this works for you.
Last edited by Rx8 Dave; 08-18-2014 at 05:07 PM.
08-18-2014, 05:23 PM
#3888
Senior Member
08-19-2014, 02:13 AM
#3890
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DOOtz, the display is usually controlled by the kit you use to install the deck, not the deck itself. I have a METRA kit that is pretty common. If your installation is different, you need to find out the manufacturer (if you can't get in touch with the person who sold you the car, you might have to pull the unit including the A/C controls and look on the back) and Google it - most manufacturers have instructions on their website or you can call them. Try this: Press and hold the A/C Mode button to scroll through the various kit options (AMB TEMP ON or OFF, AMB TEMP C or F, SET TIME 12/24H, and SET TEXT). 2. When you see the option you want just let the button go and the action on the screen will be performed. (ie: To turn the ambient temperature on you would scroll through until the display says “AMB TEMP ON” and let the button go.) 3. To set the time hold down the A/C Mode button until the display says “SET TIME 12/24H” then let the button go. 4. To switch between 12H and 24H press the front defrost button to the left of the A/C Mode button. 5. To change the Hour press the rear defrost button to the right of the A/C Mode button. 6. To change the minute press the A/C button at the top of the A/C Mode button. 7. At any time if you do not press any buttons for 5-seconds the display will save and return to the default screen and the climate control buttons will return to their normal configuration. 8. If you hold the A/C Mode button down long enough the display will say “SET TEXT”. This will allow you customize the default text on the display. 9. Once the display says “SET TEXT” let go and the first letter of the display will begin blinking. 10. Press the front defrost button to move the cursor left and the rear defrost button to move the cursor to the right. 11. You can scroll up with the A/C button and down with the Recirc/Fresh button through the various alpha, numeric, and symbol characters. 12. When you are finished entering your text if you do not press any buttons for 5-seconds the display will save and return to the default screen and the climate control buttons will return to their normal configuration. Hope this works for you.
Oh and I also customized my screen to say "(my name)s rx8"
Thank you!
08-19-2014, 07:11 AM
#3891
Senior Member
My guess is it is either a upgrade port for the Navi to tell the laser assembly to read DVDs or a set of jumpers to do the same task. You could have jumpers that size with a plastic face to send the laser assembly different codes.
08-19-2014, 01:10 PM
#3893
Ok, maybe stupid question here..
For Greddy turbo kit install using Cobb AP for tuning, do I need to have base maps from MM for first start up? I feel like I've read every build thread on here, but not much mention about first start ups prior to tuning.. Any info is much appreciated. Thanks!
For Greddy turbo kit install using Cobb AP for tuning, do I need to have base maps from MM for first start up? I feel like I've read every build thread on here, but not much mention about first start ups prior to tuning.. Any info is much appreciated. Thanks!
08-20-2014, 03:48 AM
#3894
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Major cost issue
So, I'm facing $2700.00 rebuild of the transmission for my series-1, 2004 6-speed - after a $1200.00 pilot bearing replacement last year. It's got 128K miles - how much longer before I might face another repair bill at this point? I want to keep this car, but not at these prices....
08-20-2014, 08:36 AM
#3896
Too old for PC
So, I'm facing $2700.00 rebuild of the transmission for my series-1, 2004 6-speed - after a $1200.00 pilot bearing replacement last year. It's got 128K miles - how much longer before I might face another repair bill at this point? I want to keep this car, but not at these prices....
Last edited by Signal 2; 08-20-2014 at 08:41 AM.
08-20-2014, 09:03 AM
#3897
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Um, yeah. You can get a BRAND NEW transmission from Mazmart for $2,097 (http://www.partswebsite.com/mazmart/...20094&fl_id=43)
Installation would be far less than $700, and you would have all new parts.
You can get used 6-speeds on here from partouts for more like $800.
The pilot bearing is a $400 job in labor, $5 part. If you replace the clutch at the same time, it's $380 in parts, still $400ish labor. Unless you have the dealer do it, in which case $1,200 sounds about right, since they charge 50% more for parts and labor on average (or fair labor and double parts or double labor and fair parts).
Failures happen, but that isn't much reason to allow yourself to be completely wallet-raped by the dealership.
Installation would be far less than $700, and you would have all new parts.
You can get used 6-speeds on here from partouts for more like $800.
The pilot bearing is a $400 job in labor, $5 part. If you replace the clutch at the same time, it's $380 in parts, still $400ish labor. Unless you have the dealer do it, in which case $1,200 sounds about right, since they charge 50% more for parts and labor on average (or fair labor and double parts or double labor and fair parts).
Failures happen, but that isn't much reason to allow yourself to be completely wallet-raped by the dealership.
08-20-2014, 02:38 PM
#3898
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I am talking about the air dam hole near the lip. Basically were the intake air comes in and goes to the radiator. Around that mesh layout or grid there are several spaces that are filled instead of hollow. If you dremeled a few out, it would
help airflow, but hurt air velocity (required to hit radiator)
If you aren't sealing the air properly you are basically destroying the car by not cooling it down properly. That area where the radiator is, is also where the RX8 pulls cold IATs from, so if it is sitting there baking itself, you will be baking your intake temps too.
I would focus on improving your cooling system, then start the task of trying to dick around with the airflow. Like I said before, some Thin aluminium bent in the shape of a U straight from that air opening past those oil cooler plastic air dam things. Then replace the under tray with the Aluminium one. For extra points, coat the top faces with ceramic coating so it keeps engine heat outside of the cold air area.
Also keep in mind that air is pushing on the bumper, without that rigidity and shock absorbency of those foam "regiforms" the bumper will flex and flop around. You want that bumper tight and as close to stock distance from the cross-member as you can. I was going to take my bumper off an measure it for you, but I had to take my car to get the eBrake looked at.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-di...nstall-201948/
This thread has some good picks of the R3 front bumper area.
http://www.aemintakes.com/instructio...1-485_inst.pdf
That has some comparison pics.
Don't rely on those plastic panels to hold **** for airflow on the bottom. They flop around bad. On my MS3 they flopped so bad they literally disappeared......leaving only sections around the 4 bolts.
ANY gap in that bumper and you are leaking air around that radiator. You should be able to spray water in the opening and have no spray pass into the engine bay or the intake area. The function of those ones at the top is to block the air from coming up under pressure (moving) and to keep the air inside the radiator dam/trap.
I can't see for certain, but those regiforms are both different. I wonder if you got the ones for the R3 if it would help your quest at all.
The front crossmember is foamfilled instead of solid or hollow, I believe it is talking about the front bumper. I don't know what the S1 is normally.
Mazda RX-8 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
So basically , you need to completely have a seal from that air opening at the bottom to the radiator and intake horn. I honestly thing building an upside down U shaped air dam is the best way to do that without modifying anymore than you have. You can also tie it to the bumper's back face to increase the strength of the bumper so it doesn't flex without the right mounting hardware.
Here is another idea that few people understand. Shipping Foam. Watch how shipping foam is filled for custom molded packages. It is essentially a plastic bag with that foam that expands into the shape of the part being shipped. So here is a redneck way I figured out to do the same thing.
Black Plastic contractor bags.
Foam Filler for House gaps.
GREAT STUFF Big Gap Filler Insulating Foam Sealant 16 oz.-248314 at The Home Depot
1.Mold the plastic bag to the part you want to make by forming a mold out of wood or just holding it with your hands.
2. Spray a little in the bag to test it's expansion. Remember to much will be a problem, to little won't do anything, so if you do to little you can always add as long as you don't block the hose.
3. Mold the part, and let it harden overnight. Remove the plastic bag or leave it. Cut away any excess and you have yourself a foam mold. If you remove the bag, paint it black. You could use this trick to mold foam walls around the bumper, and insulate that air dam from the rest of the car. Make sure that stuff isn't near the oil coolers. Plastic bags ARE flammable, so be careful not to get them near anything hot.
You could mold those parts that don't fit right, and while your at it, restore the airflow and improve it beyond what a stock R3 would have. Just be careful with that foam, it does NOT come off easily, especially skin. Hints the plastic bags.
NOTICE: I HAVE NO IDEA IF THAT FOAM IS FLAMMABLE, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
help airflow, but hurt air velocity (required to hit radiator)
If you aren't sealing the air properly you are basically destroying the car by not cooling it down properly. That area where the radiator is, is also where the RX8 pulls cold IATs from, so if it is sitting there baking itself, you will be baking your intake temps too.
I would focus on improving your cooling system, then start the task of trying to dick around with the airflow. Like I said before, some Thin aluminium bent in the shape of a U straight from that air opening past those oil cooler plastic air dam things. Then replace the under tray with the Aluminium one. For extra points, coat the top faces with ceramic coating so it keeps engine heat outside of the cold air area.
Also keep in mind that air is pushing on the bumper, without that rigidity and shock absorbency of those foam "regiforms" the bumper will flex and flop around. You want that bumper tight and as close to stock distance from the cross-member as you can. I was going to take my bumper off an measure it for you, but I had to take my car to get the eBrake looked at.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-di...nstall-201948/
This thread has some good picks of the R3 front bumper area.
http://www.aemintakes.com/instructio...1-485_inst.pdf
That has some comparison pics.
Don't rely on those plastic panels to hold **** for airflow on the bottom. They flop around bad. On my MS3 they flopped so bad they literally disappeared......leaving only sections around the 4 bolts.
ANY gap in that bumper and you are leaking air around that radiator. You should be able to spray water in the opening and have no spray pass into the engine bay or the intake area. The function of those ones at the top is to block the air from coming up under pressure (moving) and to keep the air inside the radiator dam/trap.
I can't see for certain, but those regiforms are both different. I wonder if you got the ones for the R3 if it would help your quest at all.
The front crossmember is foamfilled instead of solid or hollow, I believe it is talking about the front bumper. I don't know what the S1 is normally.
Mazda RX-8 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
So basically , you need to completely have a seal from that air opening at the bottom to the radiator and intake horn. I honestly thing building an upside down U shaped air dam is the best way to do that without modifying anymore than you have. You can also tie it to the bumper's back face to increase the strength of the bumper so it doesn't flex without the right mounting hardware.
Here is another idea that few people understand. Shipping Foam. Watch how shipping foam is filled for custom molded packages. It is essentially a plastic bag with that foam that expands into the shape of the part being shipped. So here is a redneck way I figured out to do the same thing.
Black Plastic contractor bags.
Foam Filler for House gaps.
GREAT STUFF Big Gap Filler Insulating Foam Sealant 16 oz.-248314 at The Home Depot
1.Mold the plastic bag to the part you want to make by forming a mold out of wood or just holding it with your hands.
2. Spray a little in the bag to test it's expansion. Remember to much will be a problem, to little won't do anything, so if you do to little you can always add as long as you don't block the hose.
3. Mold the part, and let it harden overnight. Remove the plastic bag or leave it. Cut away any excess and you have yourself a foam mold. If you remove the bag, paint it black. You could use this trick to mold foam walls around the bumper, and insulate that air dam from the rest of the car. Make sure that stuff isn't near the oil coolers. Plastic bags ARE flammable, so be careful not to get them near anything hot.
You could mold those parts that don't fit right, and while your at it, restore the airflow and improve it beyond what a stock R3 would have. Just be careful with that foam, it does NOT come off easily, especially skin. Hints the plastic bags.
NOTICE: I HAVE NO IDEA IF THAT FOAM IS FLAMMABLE, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Ok. I got it. The "grill" right? Yeah some aren't hollow. I really don't wanna mess with it because that's how it came stock.
The panels that stop the air blowing off the radiator to the air intake is still there. Those panels haven't changed from S1 to S2.
I don't wanna do anything to my cooling system because the temps were perfectly normal before changing the bumper. All this happened AFTER I put on the new number. I'm going to seal around the radiator and put the front lip back on on Saturday. I was going to make my oil cooler covers with thin aluminum (the cover that channels air into the coolers).
Yes I will put those 2 foam pieces back on and cut it according to the S2 bumper form's shape. Thanks so much for trying to help by measuring them. It means a lot to me. Really!
I have read those. Great links.
The plastic panel won't go in without fixing the metal panel that goes under it first. That metal panel won't line up perfectly with the R3 bumper.
Yes, I will have to seal everything up. I will cut my oil regiforms to match the shape of the R3's. I'll keep posted. I must say, the new face looks amazing! :D
My only real question now is, after washing your car, does the plastic panels near the hood release mechanism and the air intake horse get wet? In other words, does water leak into where the air intake duct is? If so, how much?
Thank you so much for your support
08-20-2014, 04:44 PM
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Weighing my costs vs. benefits....
Bloody hell! Sounds like a dealership. Half that would still sound a little high for a pilot bearing. Likewise the transmission. If you are taking it to the dealer, know that there's nothing extraordinary about the drivetrain of the car. Nothing that would require taking your 10 yr old car there. Any capable and trusted shop could do it.
