blckninja

iTrader: (1)

So dumb question, but this is my first manual DD. I can shift the car out of third or fourth, only gears I've tried, going 35 or 25 with no feet on the pedals. And when I say shift I mean it's as if I have the clutch in. But I can't get it into gear unless I use the clutch, haven't tried rev matching for the cars sake. This isn't normal is it?

Dustintomi

iTrader: (1)

I've had 3 manual Dailies (Dailys?) and I've been able to do that will all of them including my RX-8. I had an Eclipse GS that with just a bit of grind you could go into gears as well (don't do that). I do not think it is an issue but I wouldn't recommend doing it every shift.

Slintx

Is it bad if my rx8 doesn't use much oil? I can go 3-4 tanks an it's fine. I put a quart like every 2 months, and I drive probably more than the average person.

Is this bad? My mechanic noticed a very time leak in my oil pan, could this be the reason?

blckninja

iTrader: (1)

Time leak?

How many miles per quart are you driving? If it's too many yes it could be bad.

burning less than 1 quarter of oil every 1,500 miles
OMP fault
OMP lines clogged
oil injectors clogged
oil injectors disconnected
oil injector connections fouled

ken-x8

That's normal. If you're at low rpm - and you'd be at 2k to 3k in those gears and speeds - you can pull it out of gear without stepping on the clutch. You could get it back in gear, without declutching, if you rev matched.

But I would not recommend doing either, unless it was some kind of emergency like the clutch bracket broke and you were trying to get to a safe place or back home. You're putting a lot of load on gearbox parts that aren't intended for that kind of abuse.

Ken

Aston177

Quick question.

My car is a 2007 and came with FL-22 radiator coolant. I then had an overheat and lost a bit of coolant. I topped it off with some no name brand green coolant.

Should I be worried?

kallenthe8

hey guys. a fe weeks ago ihit a stump with the bottom of my car. - u may have seen the post- but anyway, at first i thought i flooded it or maybe the o2 senser on the cat. was preventing it from starting .. but ive replaced the o2 and tryed several deflood methods and nothing has worked so far .. i havent replaced the ignition systems yet because im in a bind for cash. befor ijust start replacing stuf i wanted to know if any of u knew of anything else on the bottom of the car that would prevent the car from operating 100% if it was struck ... ... some pecker head in the auto store said somthing about a neutral safty switch on the tran. but until then ied never heard of it is there a such thing on our car?? and if there is where would i find it

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

There is a neutral safety swith on the tyranny and there is a way to check it with a ohm meter. (sorry I don't recall the actual method)

Have you check the ESS? (, aka crank position sensor) it's at the very bottom on the engine under the main pulley.

blckninja

iTrader: (1)

I believe the answer is no. Same with oil, better to add some than to leave it. And it all mixes together.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Does it turn over? Or does it turn over and not start? Very different diagnosis thinking for each of those....

ken-x8

I'd worry about the overheat, but not what brand of coolant you topped off with.

Ken

al3k87

Damn it, I was torquing up my essentric shaft pulley and one of the bolts snappet.
So now the pulley is only held by 3 out of 4 screws.
I dont know how to fix this, I dont think it would be a huge problem driving around with 3/4 bolts but there will probly be some unbalanced weight on the pulley without the one bolt head.
Suggestions?

(EDIT)
I will remove the 2 pulleys and the eccentric shaft position plate, and there might be something left to get a grip on with wrench

kallenthe8

yes it trys to turn over when i turn the key ... if we spray ether into the intake it eill even run for a second but for some reason i cant get it to stay running idk what to do ??

could the neutral saftey switch b thrown if the car was jard hard enough ?? and unpluging the car battery would erase and codes that it threw right ??

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like your ignition is fine. Where did it hit under the car? Might have crushed a fuel line..

catchb52

I would agree. Diagnose the problem. Start with the basics. Is it sparking and is it getting fuel.
A lot less expensive that guessing.

Since you said the car will momentarily start when you use starting fluid, that would indicate the ignition if firing. So fuel is the next thing to check.

A professional diagnostic meter can look at a lot of items. You might see if one of your local shops can bring one over. Some will.


QUOTE=1.3_LittersOfFurry;4603450]Sounds like your ignition is fine. Where did it hit under the car? Might have crushed a fuel line..[/QUOTE]

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I agree...start on the fuel side.....check the fuses first..then check to see the fuel pump is working. If you pinched a fuel line it could block off the line..look on the drivers side beside the transmission tunnel. You could pull the line on the firewall...but if you have pressure you will spill fuel everywhere . It would be better to put a fuel line adapter inline and test the pressure

Aston177

Alright. Thanks guys. The overheat was coz one of the rubber grommets under the airfilter jammed the fan. It's working now.

A few more questions if you guys don't mind.

1) A lot of people recommend Redline 75w90 differential fluid. What if I can't buy that where I live?

2) My mechanic said that I should not change my AT transmission oil because gearshifts are not jerky. He said gearshifts will get jerky if you change it too soon. He's telling me to wait until the shifts get jerky. Is this true?

3) My car came with FL-22 coolant. Can I flush it and switch to a normal coolant or do I HAVE TO use FL-22?

ken-x8

1. This may be a crazy idea, but you might just use the gear lube listed in the owner's manual.

2. That doesn't make sense. When your mechanic goes to a sporting event, does he bring along a seat cusion but not use it until late in the game after his butt starts to hurt from sitting on the hard bleacher?

3. Nothing really special about FL-22, other than the claim that it lasts 10 years. You can use (or mix in) any green glycol that meets whatever Mazda's specs are. There's a TSB that cautions against topping off with red glycol because the mix will turn brown, and that's esthetically displeasing.

Ken

Williard

iTrader: (18)

I'll tell you this when it comes to the coolant. I had a buddy who was an E-6 when i met him and an about to be E-9 When i was retired. This man had 2 RX-7's one of which has been in and continues to be in MANY car and tuner magazines. He also had an RX8 though. All of these cars he's rebuilt the motors constantly pushing limits. I asked him one day about the coolant i should run in the RX8 and this is the sound advice he has given me and i shall operate by. Go to autozone, find the stuff thats on sale purchase, flush your system and fill. As long as you keep up with your coolant changes and your not lazy you will be fine. Flush it once a year and refill and your good to go. Many people may not agree with this advice, BUT i assure you this man is a very smart man. And very well in tune with the way the RX7's and RX8's operate.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The FL-22 advice is largely because of the silicone sealant in the engine that is exposed to the coolant, not the longevity. It may 'last' 10 years, but you will need a flush more frequently than that IMO.

See this thread for why FL-22 is the top recommendation: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...licone-238638/

Yeah, FL-22 costs more, but there are enough failure points in our engine already, I personally wouldn't enjoy adding another.

Aston177

Thanks ken-x8 and Williard1

My car didn't come with a manual. I'll try downloading one. I asked about the differential fluid because everyone keeps talking about Redline and says that anything else is not good :/

Ok I should change my transmission fluid as well then. My mechanic is like the go to guy for rotaries where I live. I'll get it done ASAP.

I asked about the coolant because some say normal coolant isn't good for the car, like the thread link RIWWP posted.

RIWWP

You're back! :D I did read that. That's what got me worried. FL-22 is pretty expensive here.

Williard

iTrader: (18)

M A Z D A


You'll need this.

aussie_nate

Hi Everyone! I'm new to all of this having just purchased a 2004 rx8 grand touring auto with 51,200 miles. My concern is drove car home fine next day (friday 5/30 ) had engine code light up yellow on dash and stay on. Went back to PA Auto Select today where purchased they checked it had a pa2259 code. As I understand is related to air pump etc they cleared the code and apparently said all "ok". Said bring back if engine light comes on again. So I drive home and again just getting home engine light reappears??! The car seemed to drive normally but my concern is this repeating which I believe has. Is this code going to do damage as I can't get back there till next week. I don't want to cause any more to what's happening now. Thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!

badinfluence

Take a look at the manufacture date on the Car. Under RIWWP's guide in his signature he addresses some issues with the 1St generation Engines and having issues. You may be able to resolve it by taking it to a dealer and getting the engine replaced under the original warranty extension program.


As for the specific issue, start with the hoses and connections near the right bottom /front side of the engine and work towards the upper left side. Make sure they are not loose and all connectors are plugged in. Take them out and plug them in for good measure with the negative terminal of the battery disconnected. Dealers take panels out to detail cars and forget to plug things back in.

Next take it back to the dealer you got it from and ask for a Compression test to make sure you aren't getting issues related to low compression/low vacuum. The Renesis has a TON of hoses on it, and sometimes things get oily and slip off from dealers not using funnels etc.

The Renesis is also picky with the battery and sensors. If the battery charge is low or the battery isn't up to spec, it will throw off all voltages returned from the sensor. That doesn't sound like the case here, because you would have more CELs than you have now.

Check Out RIWWP's sig for that guide and the manual you might need. It has the dealer's exact steps on what to do, and what order to do it in. Which will save you hundreds of dollars in troubleshooting.

Dustintomi

iTrader: (1)

You're almost definitely out of luck with the warranty as it's only 8 years (from purchase date so it is possible but not likely). Hopefully you can get the dealer to cover any costs that it will take to fix. I had a similar situation when I bought mine but it was from an individual so I was pretty much out of luck.