EricB

iTrader: (7)

Oh damn, well i needed to replace them badly anyway.

I believe everything is bolted up nicely, i mean, i did not get a CEL until after i took the intake off and put it back on.

But when i removed the intake i removed the pipe before the MAF, though i did man handle it a little bit to get the couplers to slide of so i didnt have to remove the entire system.

Should I remove and re-install the intake after the MAF?

I have a feeling its not the cat though because i have never misfired before, unless you dont need to misfire to destroy the cat. though... a few weeks ago i checked the cat and it sounded as if there was something rattleing in there at the idle->2500 rpm band.

What is next on my check list after i...
clean the maf
re install intake after the maf

?


EDIT!!

I just noticed the rubber seal around the MAF that connects to the intake was hanging out. It looks like it was pinched and broke or something. Its only sticking out by maybe 1/3 inch. is this the problem? The MAF is screwed down nice and tight though.

jms_jff

Hey guys, I am about ready to start a new job and have always wanted to own an rx8. I have done a lot of research and feel like I finally understand the car well enough to give it some TLC. I have been looking through the used car sites and am looking for one under 11k but was wondering what year would be the best. I mean obviously a 2010 would be better then a 2004 but I think i heard through the grape vine that the 04-05 was a 4 port? and 06 started 6 port? Can anyone help me understand what the benefit of a 6 port is and any other reason I could have to stear clear of the 04-05s? Or maybe 04-05 is a good year?

Also as I live in the great state of Indiana we have decent winters, what is a good brand of tire for the Rx8 for snow?

Thanks for your help everyone!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

New and Potential Owners START HERE! - RX8Club.com Post #5 has a technical PDF about the engines

2004-2005 automatics were 4-port. 2006 through current automatics and 2004 through current manuals were 6 port. (though the engine changed a bit for 2009-2012)

6 port means better air flow, better power.

Under $11k means you will be getting a 2007 or older (in general)

Engine compression scores are by far the most important metric when trying to determine which car to get. Year isn't really much of an issue at this point.


All winter tires, even the crappy ones, are superior to even the best all seasons. Brand doesn't matter all that much. Makes a difference sure, but budget almost always ends up becoming the primary factor

jms_jff

Which means I would have to have any dealer I'm working with send it to a Mazda dealer for a compressions test right? I don't think most shops deal with rotary's often. As for power it will just be a commuter so I don't need 5 million hp but I do believe most 04-05s had a recall correct? How can I find out of a car i'm looking at had a replaced engine?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

There are presumptions and assumptions in your post that indicate that you haven't read the thread I linked. Only need the first 9 posts.

I am refraining from retyping everything here that I typed there

Post #6 discusses compression tests. Post #2 discusses the engine myths. Post #7 discusses warranty stuff, and has a link to the 8yr 100k warranty info. There was no "recall" on the engine.

BountyHunter

First off I would never buy a car from a used car dealership. This is based off knowing all the shady things 'most' of them do -given there are some decent ones. Browse through the FS on here and you can find a lot of 8s that were taken care of by enthusiasts.

You can call Mazda USA and give them the VIN and they will tell you if the engine was replaced.

jms_jff

I read most of it but it was late at night :D I just stumbled acrossed the site the other day. I will look over it again for details, thanks so much! Is it ok if I pm you if I have other specific questions?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it's fine. Plenty of people do. Posting in this thread or that one is acceptable as well of course

You can generally take the info in the beginning of that thread as known fact, as anything I had wrong 2 years ago has been corrected, and I've kept it updated. Plenty of experts on the forum around to correct anything I wrote incorrectly, so it can be assumed that it is basic knowledge by general consensus. Even if that consensus is that there isn't agreement on a point There are exceptions to any rule of course, and the info in that thread is no exception. But it's the foundation of where you need to start before hunting for those exceptions.

jms_jff

Yeah I am glad to see compounded information, I mean if I have a question it would be better answered here then anyplace else I'm sure. I am sure you know the feeling though, I just don't want to purchase a vehicle from a year with know failures without being sure they have been addressed. As with any vehicle though its a learning process, no car is without faults. The Rx8 is beautiful with an almost exotic look, I know I cant expect 200k miles with it but for a car that could last me 5-10 years just running around town I don't think I could beat it. Its got wow factor.

EricB

iTrader: (7)

riwwp, im not sure if you read my last two posts, but im experiencing a P0171, is it alright to drive down to south jersey (1.45 hours away) for rotor fest if i cant fix the problem?

Also another question... I took apart my intake(before the maf), but didnt unplug the battery and re installed it the same day, i didnt reset my ecu, i didnt think i needed to because it was before the MAF, was i wrong? Was I getting the P0171 because i didnt unplug the battery and reset?

im going to clean the maf tonight
going to re re re check my intake tonight, though since i have the cai, there arent that many lines that could be causing the problem.
going to install new coils plugs and wires on the 16-18th

dont think its a clogged cat because i feel no loss of power.

we'll see after tonight what happens, i expect to still be stumped.

Thanks.

comebackqid

iTrader: (13)

I was wondering what track/STX guys do for seating I was at an event this weekend and I don't like adjusting the seat so me and my helmet can fit, what do you guys do for a lower and better seating position? what kind if seats/brackets etc.

EricB

iTrader: (7)

bride lowmax with bride rails give the lowest possible seating position IIRC

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Given that you are messing with the intake, your CEL is almost certainly caused by a MAF disruption. Probably reading lower airflow than you are actually getting, causing the ECU to dump too little fuel and you are getting the lean code.

Most CEL / MAF / Intake problems with aftermarket intakes are because the airflow isn't straight when it goes through the MAF. You want as much straight piping before and after the MAF as possible, as well as the screens in place. The screens are there to help straighten the air flow. If the air flow isn't smooth, the MAF could be sitting in an 'eddy' in the air flow, making it read too low.

EricB

iTrader: (7)

is it okay to drive? will it damage my engine if i cant figure it out by the 19th?

I unplugged my battery and when i plugged it back in the cel cleared (obviously) and my idle returned to normal, 800ish and dipping sometimes to 750. I assume the problem will just manifest itself again after a few drive cycles?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yes, you are fine. Lean is only a risk in high load high rpm really, so if you are scared about it, keep the revs down and the throttle light.

Josh-Cokel

does anyone no of any rx8 car shows or anything like that around Fort Collins Colorado?

Josh-Cokel

i have all the stuff in the grand touring but i also have the keyless entry and bose system in my 2006 8

jms_jff

So with about a month to go before I can afford an 8 I am trying to cram as much knowledge into my thick skull as I can. My concern now is choosing trans. I have driven manual trucks in the mountains of MT which I believe were the old hydraulic clutches (I think it was like an early 90s GM). How much easier are the 8s to drive? I live in Fort Wayne, IN which is a city of like 300k, no heavy traffic but still alot of stop and go. I was reading that with the right tires manuals can be easier to drive in winter also. How hard is shifting in traffic? I hate to be one of those "Stupid auto sports car guys" but is it really that easy?

kjb

Yes, it's really that easy. The clutch, brakes and shifter are very nice to work with. There isn't much torque, so you'd want to keep the revs up some, but that's it.

Mr_Pieper

I live in Missouri and with some good tires an 8 can be driven in some light winter conditions. Some good all seasons or even a second set of wheels with dedicated snow tires go a long way.

jms_jff

Is it alot different then other manuals? I mean normally you shift at like 3k-4k rpm and these sound like they are super forgiving. As long as I shift it sounds like it will be fine at any rpm? Also I have heard the engine beep, was that at redline or is that when you need to shift?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

You shift where appropriate. There really isn't anything more to it. Don't short shift 100% of the time, as you will accelerate carbon buildup, but don't run it to redline every time either, because then you will have heat problems (not to mention gas mileage will be poor). Under natural casual driving through a town/city with lights and stop signs I tend to shift around 5-6k.

The clutch itself can actually shift in feel from car to car, but in general it is easy to get used to. The weight of the pedal is the main difference in feel between 8s.

The only real point that you need to watch out for is that you can burn up a clutch easily with the big rev differences from gear to gear if you shift sloppily and don't let it engage before getting on the gas. It's smooth and precise though, far better than the manuals you will have been used to.

My 8 has had one of the heaviest clutch pedals I've felt of all the 8s I've driven, and with that I've driven in heavy traffic plenty over the last 100k miles, including nearly every major "bad traffic" city in the US. LA, New York, DC, Baltimore, Boston, Philly, Chicago, and San Francisco. I'd still rather have had a manual in that traffic than an auto. Precise, comfortable, revs easy. I wouldn't have traded it at all.

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

MY clutch pedal feels like it needs serviced, because it is so light. I always thought something was wrong with it. I have gotten into friends 8s and they feel different than mine, but I think it may be due to my exedy stage 1 clutch. I have replaced everything except the slave cylinder and still feels the same. My car is getting old, but its like new because everything has been replaced except the altenator and steering stuff.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Mine has always been very stiff, even with the Exedy Stage 1 clutch at 90k.

I think it is just differences in the clutch assembly spring to be honest.

nanwagner

I would NEVER buy an automatic sports car. Manuals are so much more FUN to drive!

Nan