Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
04-08-2014, 09:38 PM
#3352
Wankler
04-09-2014, 09:34 AM
#3353
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My dumb question if the day:
My trunk lid seems to shut and slam very hard. I just got the car. It looks like some sort of sound deadener in there maybe making the lid a bit heavier. It feels like the struts aren't really doing anything. Might I need to replace the struts? And if so where will I find them?
My trunk lid seems to shut and slam very hard. I just got the car. It looks like some sort of sound deadener in there maybe making the lid a bit heavier. It feels like the struts aren't really doing anything. Might I need to replace the struts? And if so where will I find them?
04-09-2014, 03:00 PM
#3355
Wankler
He's not heavy, he's my brother (the trunk lid)
My dumb question if the day:
My trunk lid seems to shut and slam very hard. I just got the car. It looks like some sort of sound deadener in there maybe making the lid a bit heavier. It feels like the struts aren't really doing anything. Might I need to replace the struts? And if so where will I find them?
My trunk lid seems to shut and slam very hard. I just got the car. It looks like some sort of sound deadener in there maybe making the lid a bit heavier. It feels like the struts aren't really doing anything. Might I need to replace the struts? And if so where will I find them?
04-09-2014, 04:43 PM
#3357
TSB is a Technical bulletin to dealer/ mechanics for often found faults
They are usually covered under warranty...but sometimes they will be covered as goodwill gestures
If the vehicle is under warranty they will cover it...if it isn't ...most likely not
Doesn't matter if the owner is original or not...as the Mazda warranty is transferable and depends on other parameters
They are usually covered under warranty...but sometimes they will be covered as goodwill gestures
If the vehicle is under warranty they will cover it...if it isn't ...most likely not
Doesn't matter if the owner is original or not...as the Mazda warranty is transferable and depends on other parameters
04-09-2014, 07:17 PM
#3358
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Ok i've had this issue and i can't figure out what is it now. When i purchase things off 8 members and i need the URL to update the Trader score. WHAT url are they talking about?
04-09-2014, 07:33 PM
#3360
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thanks riwwp. i did that last time with carbon8 and he said he can't get the trader score to post. well i just purchased more parts from another 8 member so hopefully he will get it lol my trader score should not be zero lol
04-09-2014, 07:38 PM
#3362
Wankler
Help Please: E-SHAFT SENSOR vs CIRCUIT & EGI fuse
Instead of trying to get hold of and disconnecting the E-SHAFT SENSOR (Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor) to introduce Sea Foam into the engine, or to do other work where you don't want the gas injecting and the plugs & coils firing, wouldn't it be just as well (easier) to pull the CIRCUIT relay and EGI fuse in the main relay/fuse box? How 'bout it guys and girls???? 
Any comments / ideas re: the above? Puullleezzz, Anyone?
Last edited by Rx8 Dave; 04-09-2014 at 07:42 PM.
04-09-2014, 08:31 PM
#3364
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Another dumb question. I just bought my new 8. My last one had its clutch pedal snap in the middle of DC rush hour traffic. I noticed it doesn't look like this one is reinforced. It had 114k. Should I reinforce it? Replace the assembly? Just let it go?
04-09-2014, 09:06 PM
#3366
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04-09-2014, 09:47 PM
#3367
Driving my unreliable rx8
After 3 pedals in 80k miles i had a welder tack it and mine has been good for 60k miles.
04-09-2014, 09:48 PM
#3368
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I will say this bugler, read this...https://www.rx8club.com/good-guy-bad...-douai-251637/
Then, make your choice.
Then, make your choice.
04-09-2014, 09:59 PM
#3369
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I will say this bugler, read this...https://www.rx8club.com/good-guy-bad...-douai-251637/
Then, make your choice.
Then, make your choice.
04-10-2014, 10:13 AM
#3371
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I have a 2004 RX8 with 168K miles on original engine. It went dead and won't start after passing a CA smog test 3 weeks before. I took it to dealership for repair. They want to replace starter, coil and plugs that will cost me $1600 before they do further test on the engine. Is it worth it risking that further test may result in dead engine? How much a new engine will cost me? I am afraid to ask the dealership.
Any idea?
Any idea?
04-10-2014, 10:42 AM
#3372
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Get it back from the dealership. Please. Unless you have $1,600 that you have no other use for. They are charging you $1,150 in labor for under an hour of work with basic tools.
You can get the coils, plugs, and wires for under $200, and a new starter for $350. Replacing them both is REALLY easy.
You can get the coils, plugs, and wires for under $200, and a new starter for $350. Replacing them both is REALLY easy.
Where can I buy new ignition coils?
You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
04-10-2014, 11:46 AM
#3373
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Ken
04-10-2014, 01:37 PM
#3374
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What's next?
What if I after have replaced the coil,starter and plugs and the engine turns out to be still no good, no compression.
What are my options? Are there any remanufactured engine for RX8? How much do they cost? What abut the new engine, how much do they cost?
Thanks, for any suggestions. I really don't want to throw any money even if I have some but I haven't done any car repair.
What are my options? Are there any remanufactured engine for RX8? How much do they cost? What abut the new engine, how much do they cost?
Thanks, for any suggestions. I really don't want to throw any money even if I have some but I haven't done any car repair.
04-10-2014, 01:44 PM
#3375
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If the engine is actually dead, getting a replacement will cost you at least $2,000 for a good used engine, $2,500+ to get it rebuilt by Rotary Resurrection, $3,500 for a new reman from Mazmart, $4,000+ for a new reman from the dealer, or $5,000+ for a hand built new engine from Pettit, BHR< or Pineapple Racing.
Add to that the cost of shipping the engine and labor time to remove and re-install. A dealer's quote starts at $6,000, and I've seen as high as $16,000 (which is retarded).
Your only way to know for sure is to get a compression test. A proper compression test will also give you your starter's cranking speed, though the dealer should have that cranking number if they insist that the starter needs to be replaced.
Keep in mind that if the engine is still dead and you choose to keep the car and replace the engine, you will still need that new ignition and new starter (assuming the starter is actually dead) for the new engine.
Add to that the cost of shipping the engine and labor time to remove and re-install. A dealer's quote starts at $6,000, and I've seen as high as $16,000 (which is retarded).
Your only way to know for sure is to get a compression test. A proper compression test will also give you your starter's cranking speed, though the dealer should have that cranking number if they insist that the starter needs to be replaced.
Keep in mind that if the engine is still dead and you choose to keep the car and replace the engine, you will still need that new ignition and new starter (assuming the starter is actually dead) for the new engine.