Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Here's what I think .................
The vac line to the intake prevents vacuum from building up at the discharge.
Under vacuum oil could be PULLED through the lines , leaving air bubbles in the line . Obviously this would be very bad as oil flow would be inconsistent .

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Airflow in the nipple is into the housing....and the valve prevents pressure in the housing from pushing back into the oil lines...just went and checked out a valve

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

the check valve prevents oil/air being pushed back into the intake when there is no vacuum. If you blocked off the air from the intake , I'm sure oil would be sucked from the oil line.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Could be...Really doesn't matter much in the grand scheme of things. I will see if there is anything in the service documentation

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

It does if you have to advise people ,who are fitting FI in various configurations, what to do

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You would want the line to be connected to pressure I would expect...otherwise the increased pressure in the intake stroke would push the oil valve closed and not allow the oil to come out.....but basically the same position would be used pre-throttle body? If you left it ambient it would be closed anytime there was boost

Might be having a blonde moment though...or old timers

logalinipoo

The valve is in the top of the injector above the oil injection hole.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

what mr poo said .

The key is that the air has to be metered .... so... post maf .
So long as you don't connect it post throttle. Anywhere between the maf and the throttle is ok . Does not matter if it sees boost or not , but it should not see vacuum.

Rx8 Dave

Thanks very much dannobre, Brettus, and logalinipoo for taking the time to provide your answers, thoughts, and expertise! You thoroughly answered my questions. You're the best!

poppinparker

Ok so I noticed the front felt loose the other day so I threw my 8 on the lift and suspension is fine all links in tact no bj play. Thats when I noticed theres a 2nd link on the drivers side ( there isnt one on the passenger) the link is intact mounted to the arm like it it should be ( this is the link infront of the wheel instead of behind) but what ever the link is attached to is gone. Help please wwhat am I missing?
Thanks

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Its your headlight level sensor, connects to the lower control arm to an electrical position snesor mounted on the subframe.

poppinparker

ok cool thanks for the input

RedRex8

heres my scenario.
1.car shakes at idol pretty noticeably and always has from what I remember.
2. cel came on about 1000 miles ago. mazda replaced plugs and coils
3. oil light came on yesterday checked oil and it was kinda milky. (maybe from cold cold illinois winter?)
4.i noticed oil under my air box when I was in there.
car has 37k miles and is all stock. seems to start up and run fine. Could it be the motor on the way out?

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

1: if the RPM is steady at idle but the car is shaking, it's motor mounts. If the RPM isn't steady at idle and the car is shaking, it's an ignition or AFR problem

2: without a CEL code, we can't comment on this. It could have been a loose gas cap

3: The oil light comes on when the oil level is critically low. You need to top it off, and keep it topped off. The engine burns oil intentionally, so it's going to keep happening.

4: open the intake to see if you are getting oil dumped there. Either from refilling the oil and letting it drain through the oil vent line into the intake, or another problem causing oil to spit up.

5: None of these point to an engine problem. If you want to determine the health of the engine, get a compression test.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I'd check the motor mounts first....

Oil in airbox is often from overflow when filling...is it clean oil color or black?

Usually a motor down on compression wont start well...especially when warm

The milky dipstick thing is from condensation...normal in winter

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

I have experienced this in the winter time and I know its normal. My question is how do you go about getting a good oil reading when the residue is all over the dipstick? Its taken me like 20 ins and outs to get a decent reading, anyone have a better method?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Drive it harder to burn off the condensation, then readings are as easy as normal.

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

What would constitute "driving it hard"?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Get the oil up to temp, then go find some curvy back roads and drive them spiritedly, staying in 2nd gear if you can, maybe using 3rd gear. Keep the RPMs up in general, and use full throttle when you can. 10-15 minutes of that should burn off the condensation. Just check it again before it gets cold.

Miigs

Hey, so i'm going to be getting an rx-8 in a couple months (f*ckin pumped) but i've never driven a stick shift before so my parents are trying to convince me to just get an automatic. But i wanted to get a stick because I wanted to mod it and all that and it seems badass to drive stick IMO. So I guess my question is if I really do get an automatic, could I do any performance mods to it that'll make it noticeably different and faster? If so which ones should I start off with? Cause I dont want to just make it look good, I want leave everyone else in the dust. Thanks!

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Don't !

That won't happen

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Since the best power mod for an automatic is to trade it for a manual, it sounds like you should definitely start with a manual.

You still won't leave everyone in the dust even with a manual, the car DOES only have 180-200whp, and is 3,000lbs. Plenty of cars, and minivans, which are faster in a straight line.

catchb52

My two cents for miigs. The RX is probably NOT the car I would choose for a person that wants to mod it. I have a lot of car experience. Many muscle cars, sports cars, and with my son, a few tooners.

You will spend a lot of money for some increase in performance, but that same amount of money will get you a whole lot more in a piston engine. And, there are a lot more people that can help you with mods on a piston engine car than on a rotary.

catchb52

Now for my own dumb question. Is there any easy way of checking if plugs, wires and coils need replacing? Have a 2005 that had 37,000 when I bought it. Mazda did a mechanical check prior to purchase. As told compression was at specs and mechanically the car was perfect.

Car starts fine, runs fine and gets 10/11 in town 20/22 mpgwith freeway driving. Seems to have great power and excelleration.

Now have 41,000 and just don't know if I should just replace all the ignition parts or will there be some indication that they are not performing well. Rather not spend money if it is not needed.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Generally, yes, you should replace them at that mileage. But yes, you can test too.

You can test the wires and coils with a $5 spark tester, available at most auto parts stores. It looks like a spark plug with a clamp on it. Pull a plug wire off a plug, plug it onto the tester, clamp the tester to the frame, and fire up the engine. The engine will run really rough with one plug missing, but you can see the color, intensity, and stability of the spark. Should be a clean bright blue that doesn't vary in intensity, color, or frequency. Test each set this way. If you find something off, swap wires with one that is good to rule out the wire or the plug.

Plugs you can just inspect.



You might want to read up on this thread too though: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...-plugs-234383/ Dyno results of what 30,000 mile old ignition does to the power band.