RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yes. The 4-stroke crankcase oil weight, type, and brand mean literally nothing for the injected oil, because it's not under pressure, it's not at a "cold" 200F, and it is milliseconds away from being consumed by fire. The fact that the 2-stroke is labeled 'synthetic' and the 4-stroke is not means literally nothing for the two being consumed together.

Aston177

Lol thanks. Do you monitor your coolant temps? How high did it get last summer?

I never said it's impossible. I just don't think the temp would shoot up by 46F in 2 mins after turning the car off. Last night I shut the car off at 208F and while it was off, the temp went to 217F, and then slowly came back down.

I don't have a religion lol.

Not true. I've shut off my car at 220F and the fans did not stay on. There's something else that triggers it. Could be high ambient temps or high RPM driving. My guess is, it only stays on when the coolant temp is over 226F at shut down.

If only someone could confirm this, or have info from Mazda

Steve Dallas

I only monitor my coolant temps at the track, but I can tell you that in North Texas in July and August, my fans come on more often than not when I shut off the car after driving around town. I plan to monitor my temps more closely this summer.

My car is a 2011, which makes it a Series 2. IIRC, there is some difference between the fan behavior in S2 cars.

I seem to remember fan A coming on at 207 and fan B coming on at 214 or something like that. Now you have me curious. I'll see what I can find the actual numbers so as not to spread rumors and conjecture.

Signal 2

Sounds perfectly normal to me. It's called heat-soak.
Or where you're temp sensor it placed. Or the resolution and accuracy of your gauge.

Steve Dallas

I can't format this to look right in the limited amount of time I have right now, but this is from page 100 of the 2009 Service Highlights manual. There are several different conditions which govern the operation of the fans. The money shot appears to be: Engine compartment temperature high or ECT 110 ��C {230 ��F} or more. That's pretty non-specific.


Function
Cooling fan motor Cooling fan relay
Operation condition
No.1 No.2 No.1 No.2/No.3 No.4/No.5
Regular
driving
cooling
Stop Stop OFF OFF OFF �� ECT less than 97 ��C {207 ��F} and A/C
switch OFF
Low speed
rotation
Low speed
rotation ON OFF OFF
�� ECT less than 97 ��C {207 ��F} and A/C
switch ON (Refrigerant pressure
switch OFF)
�� ECT is 97—101 ��C {207—213 ��F} and
Refrigerant pressure switch OFF
Middle
speed
rotation
Middle
speed
rotation
ON ON OFF
�� ECT is 101—108 ��C {214—226 ��F}
�� ECT less than 101 ��C {214 ��F} and
Refrigerant pressure switch ON
�� ECT or above 108 ��C {226 ��F} and A/C
switch ON (Refrigerant pressure
switch OFF)
High speed
rotation
High speed
rotation ON ON ON
�� ECT or above 108 ��C {226 ��F} and A/C
switch OFF
�� ECT or above 108 ��C {226 ��F} and
Refrigerant pressure switch ON
After
cooling
Middle
speed
rotation
Middle
speed
rotation
ON ON OFF
�� When all the following conditions are
met:
— Ignition switch: OFF
— Drive-by-wire relay: OFF
— Metering oil pump: Other than
during ignition switch off mode
— Engine compartment temperature
high or ECT 110 ��C {230 ��F} or
more.
Forced
drive
High speed
rotation
High speed
rotation ON ON ON
�� During test mode (during test mode
with M-MDS) when the AP is
depressed.
Fail safe High speed
rotation
High speed
rotation ON ON ON �� When a failure occurs in the ECT
sensor.

Aston177

Thanks man Appreciate it. Both fans turn on at the same time. It's the speed that changes. Your S2 has a engine compartment temp sensor that also triggers the fans. So it could be that. If it was an S1, I'd be worried because from what we know so far, the fans stay on only when the coolant temp is over 230F.

How are you monitoring your temps? How hot does it get in the summer?

Yes, a bump in 20F is alright. I just don't think it shoots up by 50F after shutdown. If it does, well that's that's scary!

I read my temps from an OBD2 scanner, so it's straight from the ECU.

Thanks man. I have seen this before. The engine compartment temp sensor is an S2 exclusive. On S1s, from the fan diagrams I've seen, the only reason for the fans to stay on is when the coolant temp is over 230F.

Your fans stay on after shutdown probably because your engine compartment temp is high.
If your coolant is over 230F, I'd be very worried. What kind of track temps do you get and in what ambient temps?

Steve Dallas

I monitor my temps using Torque or Harry's Lap Timer via OBDII.

Track temperatures look like the the following. Last June, I saw a high coolant temp of 215.6F. The ambient temp was in the low 90s. Last month, I saw a high temp of 199.4F. The ambient temp was in the high 50s. I have stopped going to the track in July and August--it is too hard on the cars and too hard on me.

It is not uncommon for me to see a >210F ECT reading while sitting in traffic on a hot day with the AC on.

Aston177

Your temps are fine A peak of 215.6F from killing it on a hot day is pretty good. Do you have any cooling mods done?

You said the fans stay on after driving around in traffic. For how long?

I'm guessing your coolant doesn't go over 230F. The fans stay on probably due to high engine compartment temps But it's better to watch the coolant temp on hot days

reni04

I have what may seem a dumb question so it seems the place to ask.I picked up a p2259 code and since have learned where the componets in the air pump emission circut. Question: What is the difference between the air solenoid valve control circut high and the low?.

I made sure my butterfly valves on the lim are free and i checked the top of the three solenoids on the back of the motor which is the air pump solenoid and i wiggled and played with the other two the ssv and the other.I took the hose off the check valve and that connects to the air pump solenoid and blew through it both with the ignition on and off and the CEL went out and i drove for 2 days and it returned.I know i have to fix it which will probably be the solenoid replacement.

I'm just trying to betyter understand the system and i wanted to know what part isd the high end and what part is the lower end and where it is located on the motor.MY frustration comes with the knowledge that the only way i can change the solenoid is to remove the uim and i'm not sure if i am knowledgable and also i don't want to change it out only to find i still have a CEL so i guess i will take to the stealership and pay the $130.00 to pin point exactly which componet is the culprit here. Thanks.

dennisgtofan@msn.com

Do I pump the clutch to bleed , just like the brakes?

Aston177

Does anyone know the automatic transmission temperature? Mine is around 197F. Too high?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

All modern automotive lubrications are designed around a 200F operating temperature. The RX-8's ATF system includes a cooler that is joined with the radiator, and thus lets the coolant temperature help regulate the transmission fluid temperature.

It sounds like it's all working correctly.

l0rd_v8r

iTrader: (1)

CEL Code P0443 - Purge Valve Solenoid
I have replaced the gas cap with a brand new one - light is still on.
I've read several, including - https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...anyone-237722/
but I'm not entirely sure where the PVS is to see if there is anything loose or disconnected... thanks

Aston177

Thanks RIWWP Appreciate it.

brianhutchins

How do you know which motor is in a 2004 RX-8. I see there is an 19X HP motor and a 238 HP motor. I'm looking to buy one but want to make sure it has the 238HP motor. Can't find out how to tell the difference.

Thanks

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

See here: RX-8 Help: Engine Variants

brianhutchins

Thanks alot, Looks like any 6 speed manual will have the motor I'm looking for, so thats good news.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it should I am not 100% on all European options/combinations however (I assume you are UK from your engine reference?), so make sure you check for that lower intake runner to confirm.

bmspain

Can't get driver side strut to line up and go back on at the bottom strut assmbly. What to do?

Steve Dallas

^ These installation instructions from Racing Beat might help. Otherwise, you will need to detail exactly what is going wrong and perhaps provide pictures.

DoubleBlack8

been searching around for a thread that describes what to do with your new rebuilt engine. any help or directions to the right thread?

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

confirm you're burning oil

take it easy for the first 1000 miles

change your oil at 1000 miles

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

I've got one.

Is there any way to disable the TSC light if it is illuminated without actually fixing whatever is causing it to illuminate?

DoubleBlack8

how do you confirm? just by checking the oil level on the stick?

Legot

iTrader: (1)

Yes. Each line on the stick (assuming you have lines) is something like 0.57L. You should be going through 0.5L to 1L of oil every 1500 miles or so. Check the oil level every other time you fill up at the gas station.