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I drive my car rather hard pritty often by often I mean I'll read line it at least once every time I have a drive longer than about 20 min. Lately under hard acceleration there has been a loud squeal on and off above 6000 rpm ... Sometimes it's just a quick peep there's it Will last almost a full 2 seconds At first I thought it was just a belt and decided I would wait a little bit and replace it soon .... Well before yesterday the squeal has gotten worse a lot worse. So I took it to AutoZone and was Ganna replace the belt. They guy helping me find the culprit belt said there didn't appear to b any wear on any belts.. no cracking no nothing .. so we decided to turn it on and lissen ... We both decided it sounded mor like it was coming from under the car. I'm worryed this sound is comming from the transmission or the flywheel now ... Has anyone had this happen b4 and know where I should start looking
Yes but I can also just decrease how hard I'm accelerating any it will normally stop .. I'm worried I may have damaged flywheel or contacting parts I've launched my car and fluttered clutch a few times while raceing on and off track
Yes but I can also just decrease how hard I'm accelerating any it will normally stop ..
Not trying to flame, but I'd suggest you stop driving it like you stole it. Some other speculation is that you have a bearing on an idler or one of the accessory pulleys that's not liking high rpm. Until it gets worse it will be difficult to pin-point.
I was thinking throw-out bearings. It certainly sounds like something clutch-related.
Sounds dumb, but have you checked your clutch pedal assem and make sure it didn't break? If it broke, or isn't engaging/disengaging it could be like flat footed shifting and really messing up the whole assembly. It can be as simple as being bent too.....
(I replied to him because I think he is on the right path)
2005 auto paddle shifter suddenly stopped working. I can shift down using paddles but not up. The gear shifter works just fine. Searched the forums and found 2 posts but both were old and links included did not work. Any ideas?
Sounds like a loose wire or broken connection for the upshift paddles. The ECU sees the + gate trip in the gear shift exactly the same as the upshift paddles, so since that works it isn't a problem with the ECU. Start checking wiring in the steering column. Something might have just wiggled loose.
Sounds like a loose wire or broken connection for the upshift paddles. The ECU sees the + gate trip in the gear shift exactly the same as the upshift paddles, so since that works it isn't a problem with the ECU. Start checking wiring in the steering column. Something might have just wiggled loose.
Sounds like a loose wire or broken connection for the upshift paddles. The ECU sees the + gate trip in the gear shift exactly the same as the upshift paddles, so since that works it isn't a problem with the ECU. Start checking wiring in the steering column. Something might have just wiggled loose.
Ok so I checked everything I could see underneath the steering colum and didn't find any loose wires or plugs. I left the positive terminal off the battery for 10 minutes while I was rewiring the power wire for the small amp that came with my car. After reconnecting it and restarting it my traction control light stayed on and my dsc off light kept flashing. I drove around the block and checked the codes - it said lost communications with transmission control unit. Lost communication with traction control unit. I shut the car off for a few minutes and restarted it and everything appeared to go back to normal. My paddle shifters still don't work. Are they attached to a fuse or relay? Any idea on the rest of the warnings?
The DSC system needs to be re-calibrated after disconnecting the power for an extended period. The quick and easy way to do it is to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and right.
If you only have ONE battery terminal disconnected ALWAYS make it the negative terminal. Do not disconnect positive with negative still connected. Even if briefly.
It's a connector or electrical circuit malfunction somewhere. Gotta keep looking for it. Trace wires.
I am in the process of putting my engine back together after sending it our to Micheal Edwards for a rebuild . I could not be happier with the work he did .
Now I just have to get it back in .
Here is a line that I know goes somewhere around lower intake manifold . The is a port actuator hooked to it .
It is driving me nucking futs to figure out where it goes .
it bolts down in two spots but where ???
any one know where this goes please tell me ...
Last edited by bishop1950; 04-08-2015 at 11:52 AM.
Reason: adding another picture
I called Micheal Edwards ... that piece gone on intake manifold , bolts on with long bolt in center of intake and top back manifold bolt , runs to throttle body ..
this will probably sound obtuse but it's an ongoing observation I've made that I can't dismiss.
14.4 vs 14.7
It seems I'm forever tuning for 14.4 instead of 14.7 for stoich. Every time I try to tune to a 14.7 target I eventually get my map to the point that it "flips" and I'm fighting lean instead of rich.
this will probably sound obtuse but it's an ongoing observation I've made that I can't dismiss.
14.4 vs 14.7
It seems I'm forever tuning for 14.4 instead of 14.7 for stoich. Every time I try to tune to a 14.7 target I eventually get my map to the point that it "flips" and I'm fighting lean instead of rich.
Are idle fuel trims still active with your Adaptronic in place ?
yeah... idle is the one thing I don't control without further modification and I simply haven't messed with it.
STFT and LTFT eventually go -22 (or max -- can't remember the exact number), but it doesn't matter since the Adaptronic takes over everything.. but idle itself.
yeah... idle is the one thing I don't control without further modification and I simply haven't messed with it.
STFT and LTFT eventually go -22 (or max -- can't remember the exact number), but it doesn't matter since the Adaptronic takes over everything.. but idle itself.
So the ADT controls idle AFRs completely and stock ecu handles RPM ?
Do they make kits to make the stock rotary engine stronger? like less prone to failing wise... and possibly add horses like titanium rotors or something (if there not already that). Possibly the dumbest question ever but just curious.
Do they make kits to make the stock rotary engine stronger? like less prone to failing wise... and possibly add horses like titanium rotors or something (if there not already that). Possibly the dumbest question ever but just curious.
04-04-2015, 02:56 AM
