alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

You just replied to a post that you answered previously. Again, a link to the kup kit please.

jaredv93

www.ebay.com/itm/like/400495202839

jaredv93

ebay.com/itm/like/400495202839

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Think about the major cost.....the labor to pull the tranny and install the clutch..

Then think in the grand scheme of things how the "cheap" clutch effects the total cost.

Think you will go with an unknown quality to save about 10% of the total cost?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Put it this way: There is no clutch kit out there that is cheap enough to make up for having to buy the right clutch and pulling the transmission again when the wrong one fails.

It wasn't that clutch kit, but I did exactly that. I bought a clutch I thought would be fine, spent a weekend replacing it myself on my back under the car, and right away I knew something was wrong. I pulled the starter after 100 miles on the clutch, and it was packed with shredded clutch material. I had to buy the OEM clutch and did the replacement AGAIN, on my back under the car. I ended up spending ~$700, rather than $375, because I didn't get the right clutch to begin with. It was painful enough doing all the work myself, though the costs would have been even higher if I had paid someone else do to each replacement.


If you can't afford to do it right the first time, when can you afford to do it over?

jaredv93

Well I was hoping someone had used or heard about the brand , te other one I'd be getting is 420 so it be saving 75% not 10...

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

$420 sounds too high, BHR has it listed for $375.

But still, $105 + install costs + $375 + install costs is going to be greater than $375 + install costs.

You really don't need any clutch other than OEM. There is no benefit to it and a substantial risk.

http://black-halo-racing.myshopify.c...ry-rx-8-clutch

EvanCol

I understand that's probably more of a "general idea" type of test, but regardless; how big of a gap would you consider appreciable?

I've read on some parts of the forum that there's a difference between the start times hot and cold regardless of a healthy engine or not. Usually a second or 2. So when i first go to see the car and it fires up in a couple seconds like it should,
then i leave it to heat up (I believe its 3 tics past the center of the temp gauge)

How long would the acceptable gap be?

2-3sec? or maybe anything past 4-6sec is no go or signs of compression problems??

Also, in general terms, how bad is low compression really? I know it effects the accelleration and power, but the mechanical parts themselves; are they being slowly destroyed or just in bad shape, or something else?

I think its also good for me to point out that I DON'T PLAN TO MODIFY THE ENGINE OR RACE THE CAR IN ANY CAPACITY.

Furthermore about low compression. Is there any other way to directly diagnose low compression without a compression test. I know thats the end all be all answer but I don't have that equipment(although i know how to preform one) nor can i rely on the seller to get one, or let me jerry rig one myself (removing the center pin from a regular compression gauge to allow complete flow, removing the leading plug, insertion, and turning it over). So I'm sort of forced to make the best educated guess i can.

Next, how can you definitively spot a bad starter, water pump, and oil pump? The oil pump and water pump aren't exactly accessible without removing the air box and battery case, so what do i listen for?

Please feel free to tell me that I'm going completely overkill on the amount of things I'm looking for when buying this car. Admittedly, i wouldn't being caring about even 25% of this **** if it weren't an RX-8.

If I am, which i think is maybe true to a certain degree, just tell me its a normal vehicle. Check the fluids, listen for weird sounds, test drive it, check the brakes and EB, basic electrical, and so on. The one's I'm looking at are all super low miles anyway. Out of the 6-9 i have available to buy, non of them are over 80k miles; most of them are between 50 and 60.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It's not really a set number of seconds or anything. A healthy engine should start as fast hot as cold. There shouldn't be an appreciable difference. A 1 second difference is easily noticeable without a timer. People that say that a slower hot start is normal are likely used to dealing with lower compression than people that have great compression. Keep in mind that there are a lot of people in denial on the forums. Just like ignition health. You can find people that tout how their factory coils lasted 60k or 90k or whatever, but they were just in denial or ignorant about how much they actually lost. Time and again we have new owners that purchase an RX-8, think it's stellar and fantastic, and then months later get convinced into replacing their ignition with new parts and are blown away by how much better the engine suddenly is. Same thing with compression, it's just far more costly to 'correct'.

It also isn't a specific number total, like "more than 5 seconds means compression failure." That isn't true at all. An engine that cold starts in 1 second but hot starts in 3 is an engine with compression problems, where as an engine that cold starts in 4 seconds but hot starts in 4.5 just has a starter problem.

Also keep in mind that a failing engine is a very common reason to dump a car. So even if the majority of RX-8s don't have an engine problem at the moment, a disproportionally large percentage of RX-8s for sale DO.

Basic low compression from wear is physical metal missing from seals, housings, and/or irons, allowing gaps between the seal edge and the sealing surface. Compression accelerates as the blowby through these gaps will continue eating away at the surfaces faster and faster. A rotor face with a compression score of 7.0 will reach 6.9 faster than a face with 8.1 will reach 8.0, all else being equal.

Low compression has efficiency, power, and starting concerns, but a "dead" rotary could still last for tens of thousands of miles, if it is just simple seal wear. Contrary to a piston engine that if "dead", is probably good for no more than a few miles before it turns into scrap. Few moving parts is a huge advantage though.

Still, if you are buying a car, and can pick from ones based on compression scores, there is no benefit to taking an engine that is closer to death than one that isn't.

There are some really patchwork hack jobs possible. For example you can remove a plug and put your hand against the plug hole and have someone crank over the engine. You will be able to feel the compression pulses. This isn't going to show the difference between a 6.5 compression and a 7.5, but can show a difference between a 1.0 and a 7.5. It's a quick option if you think a seal has failed catastrophically. You can also use an analog compression tester, IF you modify the tester to remove the internal valve and video record the tester needle as it cranks, then going back and watching in slow motion to count the pulses and where each pumps to, and doing the math to figure out what your cranking RPM is, then normalizing correctly. Lots of chances for human error here.

A failing starter is fairly easy, if you know what a good one sounds like. It's all in the pitch and tone of the engine cranking though, not something i can clearly describe. A weak starter will sound slower, duller, etc...

A failing water pump isn't something you can clearly see or hear, you pretty much have to remove it and inspect.

A failing oil pump is the same, only you have to disassemble the engine to get to it.

You shouldn't have too much concern about a failing water or oil pump though. I can't recall more than a handful of cases of a failing water pump, and half-ish of those were aftermarket water pumps. I can't think of a single oil pump failure that has ever been reported here.

Generally, yes. Buying a used RX-8 is like buying any other used car, with all the other normal things of checking for tire wear, brake wear, etc... The only significant difference for an RX-8 is that compression test.

50k-60k miles on an RX-8 isn't "super low mileage", considering that having an engine failure within 60,000 miles is entirely possible, especially if it's a 2004 on the factory engine, and even more so if it's an automatic.

CRO8TIA

Jared, stay clear of the Grip Force kit, I had one in my car and it is a POS. At around 7500 rpm it would start to slip. When I contacted them to make them aware of the problem,the reply was ,I didnt install the clutch correctly or my flywheel was faulty.WTH ? It was installed with a new alloy flywheel and the clutch was adjusted correctly. As RIWWP stated, stick with OEM, you cant go wrong.

EvanCol

1. So generally, the ignition of the engine shouldn't really differ on any real measurable scale between hot and cold, assuming the starter is functioning correcting. If it does, and it doesn't sound like the starter is struggling, its more than likely low compression, right?

2. what is an acceptable compression score for a healthy, well driven, maintained RX-8? Also, theoretically i could could the engine with ultra low compression for another couple thousand km? All be it bad on all fronts I'm sure.

3. What was wrong with the automatic? I guess it just limits you to lower rpm driving? ( which i know is bad for the car )

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

1: More "assuming the battery is fine". The starter's speed won't really change from crank to crank if the battery is at the same charge level.

2: see the new owner's thread, compression test section. I've got a big color coded chart there.

3: it's more that the AT shifting logic tends to keep the RPMs lower than a human MT driver, and the general trend is that this allows more carbon buildup inside the engine. Of the pics posted by engine rebuilders, the most heavily carbon choked engines were ATs.

EvanCol

I haven't heard of anyone doing so, so I'll ask here.

Theoretically, because the wiper fluid tank has a censor to warn you when you're low, would it be a brilliant idea to hook up a censorless tank for wiper fluid and use the original wiper fuild tank for the 2 stroke oil for the SOHN.

This way you'll have a visual reminder INSIDE THE CAR that you have to top up your reservoir.

Good idea?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

That method has been used numerous times before, and it's an entirely viable option.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

So took an impact gun to my rear lateral arm ball joint to remove the nut and now the ball joint as a sloppy floppy joint. No back lash issues joint is still seated fine but flops around and spins at will.

Is it FUBARED?

CRO8TIA

Are you saying the ball joint flops around on the taper,where it seats into the female taper,or the joint itself is floppy? If its the taper thats floppy, Id say when using the impact gun, it has chewed up the female taper.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

The stud flops around in the socket, and the nut is seized on the stuck. The socket is still seated to the arm and no backlash problems but it is very sloppy compared to the other arm that I removed on the passanger side.

Workshop manual days 5N resistance is the acceptable max not sure if their is a min. It was very stiff until I took the impact to it trying to get the seized nut off. Got very worn and now just flops around.

It's my rear lateral arm, guessing I am going to need a new one

DMaverickRX8

iTrader: (1)

Dumb question here. Installed a 4 port engine in my 04 auto. Got everything buttoned back up and want to start it. However were paranoid the oil cooler lines may or may not be connected to the appropriate sides of the cooler. Any idea Which line coming from the oil filter housing thread into? I dont want it to be wrong and find out the consequence.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

They only fit one way unless you extend the hose and bend the hard lines. The lines should fit snug against the engine.

Awesomo666

Hi,
so I have a 2009 r3 w/BHR Coils + Gutted Cat (failed when OEM coils failed) and I'm having a series of strange problems. The most predominant being a p0300 CEL on cold starts only. Basically there is some sort of air pump that engages for about 30 seconds and it seems as soon as it stops the idle settles. I pressure checked the coolant system to see if it were a coolant seal, and it holds pressure fine and also doesn't smell like coolant is burning. What has just started happening is hesitation in second around 3-5k rpm. Also I have noticed that the interior lights have dimmed on cold starts before soooooo perhaps alternator? I've tried lots, but I'd love some more suggestions. Thanks!

DMaverickRX8

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys we got it. Started it up and it idled well at about 2-3k. Never did settle down. Let the needle move. Then we shut it off. And added oil. We then proceeded to crank it. And it wouldn't start. Note : we removed the fuel relay under the panel before the first start to prime the oil system. We weren't wanting it to start initially.. And I do have brand new ignition.

Reinstalled it and no start. Did a deflood with still no start. Removed the relay again and it started and idled normally. Let it get to op temp after about 15 mins and shut it back off and reinstalled the relay.

Same deal. It wouldnt start. Just cranked over and over. I also did a 20 brake stomp before the first start attempt initially. Took the relay back out and no dice. I do have a cell and ordered a scanner. Haven't read the code yet. We put the relay back in again and still no start. And proceeded to do another deflood with no luck.

Started smelling fuel so we gave up. Going to try again Sundayor saturday.

Anything else I should look for or try. I'm not sure how the hell I flooded it if I did. It ran for 15 minutes ?!

DMaverickRX8

iTrader: (1)

Bump.... Any ideas? I'm desperate. If I had the money I would have let a rotary specialistor mazda perform the surgery. I did it mmyself tho trying to save a dollar. It wasnt that badm and were 95% sure everything is correctly installed and plugged in.

I'd even pay someone from central florida to come out and diagnose it if any takers

I just want my baby back. I'm driving a 97 Tahoe 2wd in the meantime and this thing is a joke

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Are you saying that it started without the fuel relay installed?

If so, there is something rather wrong there.

DMaverickRX8

iTrader: (1)

That's correct. We thought it was the fuel pump fuse. It was the relay. Once it started we let it idle for 2 mins roughly and shut it off and added oil. We then reinstalled the relay and no start until we took it out. It then idled for 15 mins normally