Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#3076
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i have had software done and removed the cat and changed the intake...now i cant stand anywhere behind my car when it is idling...does this mean it is overfuelling?
#3077
Such an obvious question but I haven't found an answer so I only dare to ask it here.
Diagnostics, Cables and software.
I have 2 cables already, an ELM327 and a K+DCan. Can any of them be used for the RX-8 or do I need a different interface?
What software do you use?
Diagnostics, Cables and software.
I have 2 cables already, an ELM327 and a K+DCan. Can any of them be used for the RX-8 or do I need a different interface?
What software do you use?
#3078
You guys and girls know that "fake" mesh texture that is on the lower black plastic part of the stock rear bumper... has anyone cut that out and put real mesh or a tiny-hole drilled grid (like the back of some ferarris)?
I checked it out once, I think there maybe a few things behind it, but it looked do-able; I just didn't get a chance to try it before I sold the car. Thought it would look better with some black mesh/ screen of some kind and provide some venting for the exhaust and a slight reduction in drag.
I dunno, just wondering if anyone has tried it and/ or if it was physically possible.
I checked it out once, I think there maybe a few things behind it, but it looked do-able; I just didn't get a chance to try it before I sold the car. Thought it would look better with some black mesh/ screen of some kind and provide some venting for the exhaust and a slight reduction in drag.
I dunno, just wondering if anyone has tried it and/ or if it was physically possible.
#3079
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Such an obvious question but I haven't found an answer so I only dare to ask it here.
Diagnostics, Cables and software.
I have 2 cables already, an ELM327 and a K+DCan. Can any of them be used for the RX-8 or do I need a different interface?
What software do you use?
Diagnostics, Cables and software.
I have 2 cables already, an ELM327 and a K+DCan. Can any of them be used for the RX-8 or do I need a different interface?
What software do you use?
Software you can use is any OBD2 data software like DashCommand for the former, MazdaEdit for the latter
#3080
Yank My Wankel
iTrader: (4)
You guys and girls know that "fake" mesh texture that is on the lower black plastic part of the stock rear bumper... has anyone cut that out and put real mesh or a tiny-hole drilled grid (like the back of some ferarris)?
I checked it out once, I think there maybe a few things behind it, but it looked do-able; I just didn't get a chance to try it before I sold the car. Thought it would look better with some black mesh/ screen of some kind and provide some venting for the exhaust and a slight reduction in drag.
I dunno, just wondering if anyone has tried it and/ or if it was physically possible.
I checked it out once, I think there maybe a few things behind it, but it looked do-able; I just didn't get a chance to try it before I sold the car. Thought it would look better with some black mesh/ screen of some kind and provide some venting for the exhaust and a slight reduction in drag.
I dunno, just wondering if anyone has tried it and/ or if it was physically possible.
#3081
Revving the engine while idling produces a boat-load of heat, and not enough oil is injected (due to low/no load) to adequately cool the side seals.
Correct, incorrect or a bit of both?
My particular concern is on snowy roads with a modest incline - where slipping the tires is required to keep the car moving. Is this creating similar conditions to free-rev'ing the engine, or am I getting paranoid over trivial things (which I have a tendency to do)?
Correct, incorrect or a bit of both?
My particular concern is on snowy roads with a modest incline - where slipping the tires is required to keep the car moving. Is this creating similar conditions to free-rev'ing the engine, or am I getting paranoid over trivial things (which I have a tendency to do)?
#3082
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That concern is a bit overly paranoid
Neutral reving isn't inherently bad anyway, unless it is done to extreme excessiveness. Slipping the tires on low traction surfaces is more load than neutral reving though. Drive a turbocharger car and you can see it starting to build boost (which is load dependant) even with the rear wheels not gripping at all.
You are fine, don't worry about it.
Neutral reving isn't inherently bad anyway, unless it is done to extreme excessiveness. Slipping the tires on low traction surfaces is more load than neutral reving though. Drive a turbocharger car and you can see it starting to build boost (which is load dependant) even with the rear wheels not gripping at all.
You are fine, don't worry about it.
#3084
What exactly are you trying to accomplish? Just reading obd2 parameters? All you need is the ELM327 cable (or other obd2 compliant canbus cable). For ECU flashing you need a J2534 like the Tactrix Open Port.
Software you can use is any OBD2 data software like DashCommand for the former, MazdaEdit for the latter
Software you can use is any OBD2 data software like DashCommand for the former, MazdaEdit for the latter
#3085
please i need helppp!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
hello friends I hope what're okay.
I have a problem with my mazda rx 8 2005
days ago a problem with the lights on and when the light goes engieen check and when I check it says I have misfire on all four cylinders.
when heated and turn off the engine if not more until he turns cool again, appreciate your help if you could they give it to me thanks
I have a problem with my mazda rx 8 2005
days ago a problem with the lights on and when the light goes engieen check and when I check it says I have misfire on all four cylinders.
when heated and turn off the engine if not more until he turns cool again, appreciate your help if you could they give it to me thanks
#3086
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Rx8s do not have 4 cylinders.
Hot start problems usually mean bad compression. Get a compression check.
Hot start problems usually mean bad compression. Get a compression check.
#3087
Wankler
hello friends I hope what're okay.
I have a problem with my mazda rx 8 2005
days ago a problem with the lights on and when the light goes engieen check and when I check it says I have misfire on all four cylinders.
when heated and turn off the engine if not more until he turns cool again, appreciate your help if you could they give it to me thanks
I have a problem with my mazda rx 8 2005
days ago a problem with the lights on and when the light goes engieen check and when I check it says I have misfire on all four cylinders.
when heated and turn off the engine if not more until he turns cool again, appreciate your help if you could they give it to me thanks
#3089
Wankler
When you say you removed the catalytic converter, is that literally? If so, this may be part of it. Is the new intake providing enough air, check blockage. The ECU: Electronic Control Unit (computer) controls the gas. Might try to reset the ECU: Engine off, key position to ignition on. Pump brake 20 times. After 20 pumps, you will see the gauge (temperature?) sweep (some older models, like some '04, the needle does not move*) confirming the operation has been completed. After this, turn the key to the off position, wait a minute or so, then start the car. (*Models with manual trans. manufactured AFTER vin 40132647; Auto. trans. AFTER vin 40132607; OR vehicles updated to "L" calibration or later have needle sweep confirmation.). If doesn't help, you might want to check the ECU, do a diagnostic; new Flash/software may be malfunctioning.
#3090
2004-2005 RX 8 6sp AUTO
For years now I've truly, truly loved the Rx8; the sleek, sexy body, the incredibly sporty interior, the exotic engine, everything. That said, I'm now in need and in a position to buy one as my first car.
(I worked, went to the gym, shopped, and had friends, literally 500 meters in any direction from my front door for 4-5yrs. So it was never really a concern to own a car, as well as i really never had a need for one. I just walked everywhere. If i did have to go anywhere further, I just borrowed my dads mustang)
So i had a couple of questions in regards to a 2004 Mazda RX-8 6sp Auto paddle shift with 56k miles (90k km) on it.
what are some common problems with this model/year/tranny?
I know a lot of the common things like
replacing the coils/wire set/sp's every other year
how to unflood/avoid flooding
spotting a misfire with the engine light flicker
start-up/shutoff/warming-up procedures
the oil debate
(personally i think I'll go with the Japanese recommendation, 5w30. makes sense to me because hot oil is thinner obv, and thicker oil will be thicker at the same temp then thinner oil; <-- OBVIOUSLY [but also, that in itself has its own set of problems])
topping the oil ever other fill up
changing the oil every 4,000km
driving it relatively hard, like it's intended to be driven (red lining gears, or at least driving it red lined once or twice daily)
The starter/battery issues (starter/battery will be replaced more or less immediately)
the average-poor fuel economy (i'll be using 89 instead of 91. I know it's not recommended but i know of 4 different RX-8 drivers that fill up with 89 and have anywhere from 100k to 220k, on their car and have never seen unusual problems)
BUT
Although I've done my research (mostly on this site), is there any other major things i should know about before buying one?? (what rpm i should shift and down shift at with the paddle shift is a big one i haven't found yet)
I expect some would argue that my biggest problem is the transmission, and that's a fair argument. For me, I love driving stick, but good lord it gets horrendously aggravating in traffic, compound that with the average Toronto driver and i think my point is just. I know that's a crappy reason for some, but also the city fuel economy is better for the auto, the ease of use (my girlfriend will be driving the car occasionally), and the maintenance. The last thing i want to do is replace a clutch or god forbid an entire transmission.
I KNOW THIS ISN'T THE MOST PRACTICAL, FUEL EFFICIENT, FAST, CHEAP, OR LAZY CAR So, flaming me for all that and the transmission choice aside, am i missing anything?
(I worked, went to the gym, shopped, and had friends, literally 500 meters in any direction from my front door for 4-5yrs. So it was never really a concern to own a car, as well as i really never had a need for one. I just walked everywhere. If i did have to go anywhere further, I just borrowed my dads mustang)
So i had a couple of questions in regards to a 2004 Mazda RX-8 6sp Auto paddle shift with 56k miles (90k km) on it.
what are some common problems with this model/year/tranny?
I know a lot of the common things like
replacing the coils/wire set/sp's every other year
how to unflood/avoid flooding
spotting a misfire with the engine light flicker
start-up/shutoff/warming-up procedures
the oil debate
(personally i think I'll go with the Japanese recommendation, 5w30. makes sense to me because hot oil is thinner obv, and thicker oil will be thicker at the same temp then thinner oil; <-- OBVIOUSLY [but also, that in itself has its own set of problems])
topping the oil ever other fill up
changing the oil every 4,000km
driving it relatively hard, like it's intended to be driven (red lining gears, or at least driving it red lined once or twice daily)
The starter/battery issues (starter/battery will be replaced more or less immediately)
the average-poor fuel economy (i'll be using 89 instead of 91. I know it's not recommended but i know of 4 different RX-8 drivers that fill up with 89 and have anywhere from 100k to 220k, on their car and have never seen unusual problems)
BUT
Although I've done my research (mostly on this site), is there any other major things i should know about before buying one?? (what rpm i should shift and down shift at with the paddle shift is a big one i haven't found yet)
I expect some would argue that my biggest problem is the transmission, and that's a fair argument. For me, I love driving stick, but good lord it gets horrendously aggravating in traffic, compound that with the average Toronto driver and i think my point is just. I know that's a crappy reason for some, but also the city fuel economy is better for the auto, the ease of use (my girlfriend will be driving the car occasionally), and the maintenance. The last thing i want to do is replace a clutch or god forbid an entire transmission.
I KNOW THIS ISN'T THE MOST PRACTICAL, FUEL EFFICIENT, FAST, CHEAP, OR LAZY CAR So, flaming me for all that and the transmission choice aside, am i missing anything?
#3092
Shift at the RPM that feels right. The transmission won't let you downshift if the rev's will exceed the engine's rev limiter.
54k miles on an 04 means it wasn't driven very frequently. Check for potential problems caused by various small mammals taking up residents in a car that's in storage. This ranges from the smell of urine in the air ducts - which will never go away (been through that before) to chewed up wires. Also check to see if the tires are still the original. If they are, they will need to be replaced.
Auto transmission = only 1 oil cooler. Another thing to consider depending on your intended driving style.
While you might be able to get away with 89 octane fuel, ask yourself if it's really worth the risk just to save $3 per fill up. As you have clearly expressed, you know this car has an insatiable appetite for gas - i.e. is not the cheapest car to run (and the 04 cars only have 1 knock sensor).
But I'll say it again because it's worth reiterating - compression test (and review the conditions required for accurate results - i.e. not on a cold engine, etc).
Last edited by poacherinthezoo; 01-31-2014 at 11:14 PM.
#3093
I'm a pretty average driver I'd say. I like to open'er up when its safe, go the speed of traffic (be it 2 over or 20 over, but never under posted),
An open road always = 5-15 over posted
(just to A. Have some fun, or B. disregard the fact that i might hit someone or be doing something unsafe for others because I'm the only one on the road. An example would be late night/early morning highway where people are few and far between, or some of the bigger 2-4 lane arteries that are DEAD a couple hours after rush hour during the week.)
Also, what does only 1 knock sensor have to do with the octane of the gas? it's because the engine is tuned to run on 91, right? If thats the case, $7 isn't worth my entire car.
Another question is about is the cobb access port. Does using the MM fuel economy map hurt the car mechanically? i know it dumbs down the power from what I've heard, but i don't want it to hurt the car.
ANNNND, is it worth getting a 2005 instead? There's a bunch i have in front of me ranging from 55k-90k miles
another ANNNND is the 2004 4sp auto. How does it differ? Are they more prone to problems? I'm assume the same driving habits and rules apply?
Last edited by EvanCol; 01-31-2014 at 11:47 PM.
#3096
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2006+ automatics are 6 speed, 212hp
2004+ manuals are 6 speed, 232hp
The difference between the two automatics is that the 2004-2005 AT is a 4-port engine, the 2006+ is a 6-port. That is the first 20hp difference.
The difference from the 6-port MT and the 6-port AT is largely the 1,500rpm lower redline to protect the transmission.
A 2004-2005 AT is significantly slower than a 6sp MT of any year.
And re-think the AT vs MT maintenance. It is likely that you could find a 6sp MT with a relatively new clutch on it at this mileage, vs you have no real ideal if the regular AT transmission maintenance was done. The factory MT clutch will last ~90k if driven properly and not abused, and the cost of a clutch replacement ever 90k averages out about the same to the cost of AT transmission flushes every 30k, if not cheaper.
I can understand the traffic thing though, it's definitely a valid reason for an AT.
#3097
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Pass on it. Unless you are turbocharged or supercharged, stick with OEM. It has more torque capacity than an N/A RX-8 can produce, there are no quality of fitment concerns, and the entire kit is $375 from BHR, shipped.
#3098
#3100