i have had software done and removed the cat and changed the intake...now i cant stand anywhere behind my car when it is idling...does this mean it is overfuelling?

 

Such an obvious question but I haven't found an answer so I only dare to ask it here.

Diagnostics, Cables and software.
I have 2 cables already, an ELM327 and a K+DCan. Can any of them be used for the RX-8 or do I need a different interface?
What software do you use?

 

You guys and girls know that "fake" mesh texture that is on the lower black plastic part of the stock rear bumper... has anyone cut that out and put real mesh or a tiny-hole drilled grid (like the back of some ferarris)?

I checked it out once, I think there maybe a few things behind it, but it looked do-able; I just didn't get a chance to try it before I sold the car. Thought it would look better with some black mesh/ screen of some kind and provide some venting for the exhaust and a slight reduction in drag.

I dunno, just wondering if anyone has tried it and/ or if it was physically possible.

 

What exactly are you trying to accomplish? Just reading obd2 parameters? All you need is the ELM327 cable (or other obd2 compliant canbus cable). For ECU flashing you need a J2534 like the Tactrix Open Port.

Software you can use is any OBD2 data software like DashCommand for the former, MazdaEdit for the latter

 

Been done, looks bad. Get the MS lower.

 

Revving the engine while idling produces a boat-load of heat, and not enough oil is injected (due to low/no load) to adequately cool the side seals.


Correct, incorrect or a bit of both?

My particular concern is on snowy roads with a modest incline - where slipping the tires is required to keep the car moving. Is this creating similar conditions to free-rev'ing the engine, or am I getting paranoid over trivial things (which I have a tendency to do)?

 

That concern is a bit overly paranoid

Neutral reving isn't inherently bad anyway, unless it is done to extreme excessiveness. Slipping the tires on low traction surfaces is more load than neutral reving though. Drive a turbocharger car and you can see it starting to build boost (which is load dependant) even with the rear wheels not gripping at all.

You are fine, don't worry about it.

 

Anyone have any idea/tips on how to get the front rear subframe bushings out, seems you have to either chizzle them out or destroy the lip that bottoms them out.

Thanks

 

Not planning on any flashing. Just reading and resetting codes. The generic OBD just does engine management and not vehicle specific stuff like air bags. I've been googling and it looks like ScanXL is the software for Mazda.

 

hello friends I hope what're okay.
I have a problem with my mazda rx 8 2005
days ago a problem with the lights on and when the light goes engieen check and when I check it says I have misfire on all four cylinders.
when heated and turn off the engine if not more until he turns cool again, appreciate your help if you could they give it to me thanks

 

Rx8s do not have 4 cylinders.
Hot start problems usually mean bad compression. Get a compression check.

 

The Rx8 has 4 spark plugs, 2 per rotor bank. As a rotary there are no cylinders, only rotary faces. Google or Wikipedia: Wankel or rotary engine. Agree, check compression re: hot start problem. Also, misfiring: when have the coils been replaced and spark plugs been replaced? Coils supply high voltage to make spark plugs spark. Look up coils on this site.

 

Carbon, what is "the MS"?

 

When you say you removed the catalytic converter, is that literally? If so, this may be part of it. Is the new intake providing enough air, check blockage. The ECU: Electronic Control Unit (computer) controls the gas. Might try to reset the ECU: Engine off, key position to ignition on. Pump brake 20 times. After 20 pumps, you will see the gauge (temperature?) sweep (some older models, like some '04, the needle does not move*) confirming the operation has been completed. After this, turn the key to the off position, wait a minute or so, then start the car. (*Models with manual trans. manufactured AFTER vin 40132647; Auto. trans. AFTER vin 40132607; OR vehicles updated to "L" calibration or later have needle sweep confirmation.). If doesn't help, you might want to check the ECU, do a diagnostic; new Flash/software may be malfunctioning.

 

For years now I've truly, truly loved the Rx8; the sleek, sexy body, the incredibly sporty interior, the exotic engine, everything. That said, I'm now in need and in a position to buy one as my first car.
(I worked, went to the gym, shopped, and had friends, literally 500 meters in any direction from my front door for 4-5yrs. So it was never really a concern to own a car, as well as i really never had a need for one. I just walked everywhere. If i did have to go anywhere further, I just borrowed my dads mustang)

So i had a couple of questions in regards to a 2004 Mazda RX-8 6sp Auto paddle shift with 56k miles (90k km) on it.

what are some common problems with this model/year/tranny?


I know a lot of the common things like

replacing the coils/wire set/sp's every other year

how to unflood/avoid flooding

spotting a misfire with the engine light flicker

start-up/shutoff/warming-up procedures

the oil debate
(personally i think I'll go with the Japanese recommendation, 5w30. makes sense to me because hot oil is thinner obv, and thicker oil will be thicker at the same temp then thinner oil; <-- OBVIOUSLY [but also, that in itself has its own set of problems])

topping the oil ever other fill up

changing the oil every 4,000km

driving it relatively hard, like it's intended to be driven (red lining gears, or at least driving it red lined once or twice daily)

The starter/battery issues (starter/battery will be replaced more or less immediately)

the average-poor fuel economy (i'll be using 89 instead of 91. I know it's not recommended but i know of 4 different RX-8 drivers that fill up with 89 and have anywhere from 100k to 220k, on their car and have never seen unusual problems)

BUT

Although I've done my research (mostly on this site), is there any other major things i should know about before buying one?? (what rpm i should shift and down shift at with the paddle shift is a big one i haven't found yet)

I expect some would argue that my biggest problem is the transmission, and that's a fair argument. For me, I love driving stick, but good lord it gets horrendously aggravating in traffic, compound that with the average Toronto driver and i think my point is just. I know that's a crappy reason for some, but also the city fuel economy is better for the auto, the ease of use (my girlfriend will be driving the car occasionally), and the maintenance. The last thing i want to do is replace a clutch or god forbid an entire transmission.

I KNOW THIS ISN'T THE MOST PRACTICAL, FUEL EFFICIENT, FAST, CHEAP, OR LAZY CAR So, flaming me for all that and the transmission choice aside, am i missing anything?

 

He means Mazda Speed

 

Compression test, compression test, compression test.

Shift at the RPM that feels right. The transmission won't let you downshift if the rev's will exceed the engine's rev limiter.

54k miles on an 04 means it wasn't driven very frequently. Check for potential problems caused by various small mammals taking up residents in a car that's in storage. This ranges from the smell of urine in the air ducts - which will never go away (been through that before) to chewed up wires. Also check to see if the tires are still the original. If they are, they will need to be replaced.

Auto transmission = only 1 oil cooler. Another thing to consider depending on your intended driving style.

While you might be able to get away with 89 octane fuel, ask yourself if it's really worth the risk just to save $3 per fill up. As you have clearly expressed, you know this car has an insatiable appetite for gas - i.e. is not the cheapest car to run (and the 04 cars only have 1 knock sensor).

But I'll say it again because it's worth reiterating - compression test (and review the conditions required for accurate results - i.e. not on a cold engine, etc).

 

Is there an inherent problem with only having 1 oil cooler? i would assume that means overheat is probably something I'll have to think about. Would it be worth buying a new one? Or maybe upgrading to 2 if possible, or maybe one thats bigger/better?

I'm a pretty average driver I'd say. I like to open'er up when its safe, go the speed of traffic (be it 2 over or 20 over, but never under posted),

An open road always = 5-15 over posted
(just to A. Have some fun, or B. disregard the fact that i might hit someone or be doing something unsafe for others because I'm the only one on the road. An example would be late night/early morning highway where people are few and far between, or some of the bigger 2-4 lane arteries that are DEAD a couple hours after rush hour during the week.)

Also, what does only 1 knock sensor have to do with the octane of the gas? it's because the engine is tuned to run on 91, right? If thats the case, $7 isn't worth my entire car.

Another question is about is the cobb access port. Does using the MM fuel economy map hurt the car mechanically? i know it dumbs down the power from what I've heard, but i don't want it to hurt the car.

ANNNND, is it worth getting a 2005 instead? There's a bunch i have in front of me ranging from 55k-90k miles

another ANNNND is the 2004 4sp auto. How does it differ? Are they more prone to problems? I'm assume the same driving habits and rules apply?

 

For normal driving in your climate it won't be a problem. The problem arises when you start taking the car to track days or drive it in a Las Vegas or Phoenix summer.

 

Anyone ever use a kupp or grip force clutch ? How are they ? Seems legit but so cheap compared to other clutches kits .

 

No, only 1 oil cooler isn't inherently a problem. You can upgrade to 2 OEM coolers without much trouble if you find a set of coolers and lines from a MT.

The knock sensor count isn't an issue, but yes, the engine should really drink at least 91 octane. 89 is technically viable, but not recommended. 87 is only "safe" on an engine that already has failing compression. The healthier your engine is, the higher the octane requirement will be to avoid detonation and a blown engine. 89 octane is safer if the highest compression face in the engine is in the mid 7s than it is if the highest compression face is in the mid 8s.

No, it doesn't hurt the car. It doesn't help economy all that much either though...

2005 vs 2005 will only matter if they are on their original engines, in which case a 2005 will likely have better compression. However, at this age of the car compression scores trump model year and mileage every time. An original engine 2004 with 160,000km and compression scores in the 8s would be preferable to a 2005 with 40,000km and compression scores in the 7s. In order to avoid wasting money on many compression tests, record the time it takes to start when cold vs when hot. If there is an appreciable gap in time, pass on the car.

2004 and 2005 automatics are 4speed, 192hp.
2006+ automatics are 6 speed, 212hp
2004+ manuals are 6 speed, 232hp

The difference between the two automatics is that the 2004-2005 AT is a 4-port engine, the 2006+ is a 6-port. That is the first 20hp difference.
The difference from the 6-port MT and the 6-port AT is largely the 1,500rpm lower redline to protect the transmission.

A 2004-2005 AT is significantly slower than a 6sp MT of any year.

And re-think the AT vs MT maintenance. It is likely that you could find a 6sp MT with a relatively new clutch on it at this mileage, vs you have no real ideal if the regular AT transmission maintenance was done. The factory MT clutch will last ~90k if driven properly and not abused, and the cost of a clutch replacement ever 90k averages out about the same to the cost of AT transmission flushes every 30k, if not cheaper.

I can understand the traffic thing though, it's definitely a valid reason for an AT.

 

Pass on it. Unless you are turbocharged or supercharged, stick with OEM. It has more torque capacity than an N/A RX-8 can produce, there are no quality of fitment concerns, and the entire kit is $375 from BHR, shipped.

 

But the kup kit is 100

 

Give us a link so we can take a look. However, if the price is too good to be real, the product probably isn't real.

 

But the kup kit is only 105, that's why I ask