Talk to Easy

 

Done the search, but still can't find anything. Where does it say the factory R3 wheels are made by BBS? I have seen it said here many times, but never seen an actual source. I've looked through the factory information. The wheels are not identified as BBS wheels anywhere on them. There is just the Mazda logo. I know it is completely reasonable that BBS is the maker of the wheels, like Enkei is for many other manufacturers, but I haven't seen proof of it. If I missed it in the website search, please point me to it. Thanks.

 

If the rotary engine produces more heat then wouldn't you not want to have the engine covered? Would it be beneficial to remove the plastic cover?

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Do you drive around with the hood up?

If you drive with the hood down like the rest of us, the hood sits against the top of the engine cover, it certainly isn't making a difference with engine temps. The hood is insulated anyway, if you are trying to get more radiant heat. And the hot air isn't coming through the solid hood, so it's not blocking airflow.

It's purely for looks.

 

Do I fit a stainless steel exhaust system with-out the stainless steel manifold or do wait till I have enough cash to purchase the manifold to go with the system? Also what exhaust system should I go for?

 

Don't worry too much about the manifold (or header) because there isn't much for you to gain by changing it out anyway. You can always change your mind and add one later if you want.

Your specific desires will come into play more than anything when choosing an exhaust. (IE - If you prefer a single or dual outlets, if are you looking to save weight, if you want something fancy, or if you just need something cheap.) That will make it very difficult for even a well intending person to choose your exhaust for you.

 

Ok, mabye not the best question in the world but anyway. What are the clips that hold our airbox closed called? P'N? NSN? anything? I've been searching and i can't find them. The clips you would use to snap the airbox closed after you replaced the filter.

 

13-Z27 clip.

 

Thanks cajun.

 

I generally agree with the Godfather. Primarily, the cover makes the engine compartment look neat, but I think it also keeps stuff from falling in there and on the belts and, since the rotary is meant to run hot, the plastic cover and hood insulation maintains uniform heat of the various top end components. If you removed the cover and the hood insulation you might get a tad more heat dissipation, but probably not much, and it may not be good for the engine or the hood paint. I say unless there is a good reason otherwise - leave it alone.

 

If yours can do it, try these instructions: http://www.metraonline.com/files/pro...5-7510_web.pdf

 

Check with Mazda North America and see, WTB: RX8 R3 rims bbs - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum.

 

Is there a difference in the Series 1 Airbox and the Series 2 airbox? Just the airbox, not the accordion.

 

What's the secret handshake thing that the car does to alert you that the battery in the key fob is in need of replacement (specifically the advanced keyless entry - credit card style key)? I remember reading it flashes the key light on the dash, but can't find the post anymore.

 

I had a similar issue. Check the bottom of the credit card key for where the battery cover holds the battery in at. When it gets low the key on the dash lights up red like the key isn't anywhere in the car. It also won't let you use the curtesy lights it unlock buttons. You can buy just the housing for the credit card remote for cheap and replace the battery cover to help your issues

 

I bought an 04' RX8 yesterday. Test drove it and it ran perfectly, but the check engine light and engine coolant light were on. Got it home checked the oil and there was milky white substance on the dipstick. What could be the problem?

 

Was the check engine light flashing? Did you have a compression test done before you purchased it? The white milky substance on the stick is condensation dont worry about it. The coolant light is usually on for a few reasons. 1 coolants low 2 coolants high 3 coolant sensor is dead.

 

Despite my best efforts (and reading) my fobs refuse to work with the car. I did the diagnostic flowchart to verify the keyless entry system in the car isn't faulty. Changed fob batteries (twice).

I have two programmed keys right now, and no working fobs out of three (two normal KPU 41805 and a KPU 41788).

Confused on where to go from here and trying to avoid the ridic $85 per fob stealership fee.

 

Have to tried resetting the can modules? This happened once to me because I only have one key. It just got mad and refused to acknowledge the key. I took me reader and found there was a communication code in there, I reset it, and it stopped it's Shanninagians.

 

The air-boxes are the same for the 2004 - 2011 Mazda RX-8 1.3L Rotary Engine. For high power engines there is a Variable Fresh Air Duct (VFAD) which is a duct to front of the air box intake with a vacuum operated intake valve that is incorporated into the fabric fresh air duct under the nose of the RX8. It just quiets noise - you can remove it : run over 5250 RPM to open the intake, then cap the vacuum hose and nipple on throttle body. The actual VFAD assembly is located under the nose of the car at the entrance to the stock air box. Contrary to many people's expectation, its NOT a tuning device for power – it is a tuning device for noise! Under most driving conditions (low RPM, low power) it draws intake air through the fabric duct to reduce intake noise. At 5250 RPM, the valve opens allowing some intake air to bypass the long fabric tube and reducing the pressure drop. Hope this helps and not too much info.

 

Agree with Willard. There is a remote chance that there is a bad seal / crack allowing coolant into the oil. If coolant is low, fill to full (don't overfill) and see if it goes down relatively quickly over time. I have to top off my coolant once in awhile and I have no bad seal, etc. Much, much, much more often the milky white is just condensation. Per Willard, otherwise check your coolant tank too see if too low or high. If not, you could have a bad coolant tank level sending unit if coolant level is OK. Many retail parts supply stores will read your codes for the CEL (check engine light)(otherwise known as the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL)). Then you can find out what the code means from the dealer if you don't have another source.

 

The only source should be here, not the stealership. Come here first. then there

 

I don't think the steering wheel reset will work for the Tire Pressure Monitoring System as its for TCS=Traction Control System and DSC= Dynamic Stability Control, which would show the TCS/DSC indicator light, not the TPMS light. First, make sure the tire pressures are right on all wheels. Might bleed off the pressure from the tire with the new TPMS unit, then fill it back up to correct pressure. If this doesn't work, the ECU may not be recognizing the new TPMS unit.

Just a guess: try clearing the NVRAM (Non Volatile Random Access Memory) and the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) of the ECU (Electronic Control Unit (computer)). To clear the NVRAM (for 2004-2008, but think it may work for Series 2): Engine off, turn key position to ignition ON, then immediately tap the brake 20 times within 8 seconds, (on newer models you will see the oil pressure gauge needle will move to right of center slightly (nearer H) confirming the operation has been completed - some older models, like some '04, the needle does not move). After this, turn the key to the off position, wait 30 seconds or so, then you can start the car. To reset the KAM: disconnect your car battery (NEGATIVE FIRST) and tap on the brake peddle several times to drain the residual electricity operating the KAM. Then leave it for several minutes before reconnecting the battery. Let me know if this works.


1.3_LittersOfFurry answered the checking the oil dipstick question on page 133.

 

Instead of trying to get hold of and disconnecting the E-SHAFT SENSOR (Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor) to introduce Sea Foam into the engine, or to do other work where you don't want the gas injecting and the plugs & coils firing, wouldn't it be just as well (easier) to pull the CIRCUIT relay and EGI fuse in the main relay/fuse box? How 'bout it guys and girls????

 

Right you are, Willard. But if can't find codes on this forum, dealer should let you know what a code means for free so you can fix it yourself.