Hello to all,

I just picked up my Rx8 and im looking for a good set of all seasons for when I get plates on Monday. I live in Massachusetts so snow traction is just as important as dry traction for me. I searched through some threads but didnt see anthing specific to all seasons just winter and summer.

I was looking a a set of Pirelli P Zaro Nero all seasons priced at $160 per tire with a 60 dollar rebate through tire rack, but they look to have poor ratings for even light snow. I'm looking to stay under 200 for tires what do you guys run for all seasons that seem to work well for the rx8.

I was thinking Continental DWS. I had a set on my old A4 and they did a good job in snow 80% of the time.

Im a spirited driver but winter traction is just as important as summer as I live in Massachusetts.

Any reccomendations?

Mike G

 

I got Continental DWS and they have been nearly perfect. Obviously they are not the best on ice, but if you take it easy when conditions are rough, they work great. I sure never got stuck (I live in north-eastern PA)

The only word of advice is that the Continental's do not fare well to any kind of tire spinning, and they will wear incredibly fast if you do that. Also, they tend to get kind of harsh after a year or so (nothing you'll probably notice until you replace the tires again)

 

I have two questions.

picture is for reference


Will the car start and run if the three rubber hoses that run from the intake (right behind the maf) in to the engine are not hooked up and just open to the atmosphere?

Also, which way does the air flow through these tubes?

 

Wouldn't recommend it, one provides vacuum to OMP injectors

 

Hi everyone. I'm wondering if anyone knows if Bluetooth feature can somehow be added to an 04 GT with factory Bose 6 cd system? TGIF!

 

Does anyone know what other cars have part compatibility with an 05 Rx-8.

 

Yes the car will start and run. I broke one of the nipples off of one of the hoses and had to start it before but expect to have a vacuum leak, and possibly poor performance. Would I do it for an extended period of time? hell no, I just drove it down the block to get a new nipple.

Which way does the air flow? It depends. One line flows FROM the oil filler neck TO the intake I believe. I havent investigated the others though. Not recommended but the car would start.

 

Not sure if it's in your price zone but really you should try to have dedicated snow tires. All-seasons will not do you so well in the heavy stuff. I have michelin x-ice3s for the winter and because i went with 17''ers the tire prices were cheaper. I have eagle-RSAs for the summer.

 

Yes... There are numerous threads about it. I use it and it works fabulously!!
http://www.gromaudio.com/store/aux_adapters/mazda_02-08_aux-in_mp3_bluetooth_ipod_iphone_adapter.html

 

Thank you for the input. I was just watching some You-Tube vids on nav hood tablet replacement. Pretty cool. Bon sois.

 

Today i found out that the fuel cuts of at the indicated "9500rpm"

does overrevving the rotary hurt the engine as much as overreving a piston engine where the valves could float?

i also heard that the tachs could be off by 300-500rpms


also, what is the main factor into setting the 9000rpm?
in automatics, it had to be lower than 9000 because of the torque converter but how about the manuals?

 

Fuel cut is not 9500 rpm, its depends what model you have but none are 9500 rpm.
Yes it hurts it to over rev
There are no valves ... Of the type you mention

Yes my tach is off by almost 800 rpm by 7500 rpm

 

"Overreving" is only normally possible if you have removed the rev limiter, or you downshift sooner than you should and the drivetrain mechanically spins the engine to a higher RPM than the rev limiter.

If you simply hit the rev limiter and felt the reaction, this is not over-reving.


For a rotary, there are 2 high RPM dangers to consider:
- Heat. Full throttle up to the rev cut generates a lot of heat, and this heat can start damaging things if you don't give it a chance to cool off periodically. This is why race motors have a much shorter lifespan, they spend their entire life up there
- Rotor tips can contact the rotor housing. This is a subject of more debate. Note the word "can". Race teams have proven that 9,000rpm and more (actual RPM, not indicated) can cause the rotor tips to contact the rotor housing. However, this isn't a 100% all of the time thing, and there are probably several factors that matter for whether or not they do, including oil weight, oil pressure, e-shaft balance, rotor balance, 1 vs 2 piece e-shaft, etc... Since people with street motors typically have no real idea of the balance of their engine, it's recommended to just shift when you hear the beep (in the 8,000s), and avoid the risk that you might.

 

ok so i bougt an rx8 a year and a half ago with a three year loan. I still owe about $3200 on the car but it has all of the typical problems that owners occur with a rotory engine.

now the car is so bad that it simply wont start. it used to when i bought it but gradually it got to the point that it wouldnt restart when the engine is hot. now it wont restart at all. i called the local mazda dealer and he told me that the engine was replaced when the car had only 20,000 miles. now it has 120,000 miles. i have replaced the coils,wires,plugs,starter,battery, and battery terminals.

at this point i just want a different car. there is no way a car lot will take my car as a trade in even if i was able to get it to start because if i shut it off it will not restart.

so the question i have is....

what do i do now?

 

your engine could be flooded, it can happen when u shut off your car when its cold and not warm. (never want to shut your vehicle when its cold, if u look at the owners manuel it will say the same)

you will find alot about the car read below \/
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...t-here-202454/

 

Is it possible to buy a GOOD premix at any kind of store (Autozone/WalMart/tractor&lawn equipment supply shops/etc) that I can physically drive to and not have to buy in bulk online and pay shipping for? Every kind I see in the threads on here that everyone says is good, is never available in any of the stores around that I've checked locally.

Or if I want the good stuff I'm gonna have to go online somewhere to get it?

 

Not starting when hot is a likely sign of low compression. Get the compression checked at your local MAZDA dealer, they are the only ones that have the equipment to do it on rotaries, for around $100-150. The engine is probably dead, and would have to be replaced. Alternatively, you can drive the car super hard (but not let it overheat, so you need to be looking at actual coolant temps not the dash gauge which if moves means you might already be screwed) for awhile and see if you can get some of the carbon thats built up preventing the seals from working - but from the sounds of it your engine is probably way beyond the point where this strategy can save it.

 

Well after fixing a small oil leak I've had since I installed my racing beat oil lines and installing my BHR coils I drove my car and its running terrific. No idea what that grinding was still but I'm positive the compression is fine. I've pulled ahead of two newer wrx's in the last two weeks

 

ok dumb question i tried searching but couldnt find it..been a long day.

The plastics on the back bumper, is this held on only by the little plastic clip things or what? (wanting to plasti dip so it will stay black) i will gladly take a link if yall can find one haha.

also its not going to melt if i do plasti dip it from the exhaust, is it?

 

I have a 2004 RX-8. I bought it with 160k miles... and the original (or at least OEM) struts on it. They are toast.

I got a set of nearly free and nearly new cast off springs and shocks/struts from a 2009 RX-8.

Question 1: They do work? The question was asked in the thread below, but the answer provided wasn't conclusive.

Also in this thread: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-racing-...4-08-a-173887/

it seems that using the 2009 rear strut would raise the back of the car a little bit. I know I have auto-leveling HIDs.

So, I read this:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...lights-179108/

Question two: If anybody has put S2 rear suspension on an S1 (I am considering it only because it is free), and if so, were any changes required to the headlight positions?

 

You have to reach under and back to push out the clips to detach the bumper shrouds off the bumper. We've had some members' bumper shrouds melt from the exhaust due to having the combinations of both a midpipe and an aftermarket exhaust.

 

will i have to remove the front bumper to remove the filter for the aem cai??

 

Well i have stock everything just trying to plasti dip the shrouds and the middle piece. will the plasti dip melt under that heat from the exhaust tips around the shrouds? and the clips are the only thing holding the back plastics on correct?

ill probably end of having to break everyone since i have minimal patience for those damn things lol

 

^the shrouds come out, but the middle black plastic part is attatched to the bumper..

it cannot be removed without cutting it off.

you could try PD, but others have had success with satin black paint.

If you want something temporary then peanut butter will do the trick to get the black plastic back to its original color.

 

They actually operate on washer fluid.



couldnt help it sorry lol. If you took of the console you'll notice that there are electrical plugs for them. They draw a bit of power from the battery is all, no coolant. Should not really affect gas mileage. You may just be stressing a bit.