Lebren ... it's good ****.

LED Rotor Accent Light by Lebren

 

ok i have probably a dumb question.
i want to upgrade my primary fuel injectors from the oem reds to the 09 greens. Is there enough compensation in the pcm to handle that 10% increase without having to retune? My stfts are reasonable--less than -15 during the reds only injecting range.

 

You could probably replicate that for almost nothing. Radio shack should have all the necessary parts.

 

S-techs are Green and H-techs are gold in color.

 

Dumb question incoming... Can the passengers side front brake caliper be used on the front drivers side? Not even the whole caliper itself, just piece that holds the brake pads being held by 2 17 mm bolts where guide pins slide into...

 

I haven't tried, but I'd guess no. They aren't symmetrical in their shape, so I'd bet there would be problems.

 

No ...

 

The greens are at least @20% larger and max ltft is 25%. Fuel trims will compensate at low load but high load and transition will go to **** - don't do it .

 

It was worth asking, I need to replace mine and someone was selling the passengers side locally, I figured it probably didn't fit... :P

 

Thank you. I have S-techs then.

 

thanks Brettus.

 

Has anyone rebuilt the transmission on an 04 RX8? From what I've read, you need a lot of specialized tools. I can't find any rebuild info in the shop manual I have, so I'd like to know if anyone has tried or done it.

Have 2nd gear grind and want to get rid of it.

Haven't found a rebuilt unit for sale yet, not sure anyone local could handle a rebuild properly if specialized tools are required (Wpg, Canada).

 

Is there any trick for getting the rear 02 sensor electrical clip disconnected? I'm putting in a BHR midpipe and the actual O2 sensor loosened just fine with a socket wrench but I cannot disconnect the other end where it clips into the electrical housing.

There are a few other clips like that on the car and I usually use a very small flat-head screwdriver to push down on the clip and then pull it out, but this will not budge. It does not look corroded or anything either.

Any ideas?

 

So apparently i have conflicting results now,

i made a thread about 900 miles ago stating how my mechanic overfilled my oil by a considerable amount (i still have not added any oil since and i am just now beginning to become below the full line on the dipstick)

i got a few answers saying it wasnt a big deal, that any extra oil is injected into the maintenance ports... However recently i have gotten this noise...


And i have a feeling it might be the SSV, which is usually caused by ovefilling the oil correct?

please say it isnt so, it looks really complicated to remove and clean the SSV

 

The ssv is very easy to get to and clean. Don't be intimidated by the looks of it. Only 10 bolts hold that on, but you will want a swivel head (universal) to get in at an angle. These cars are easy to work on. Those ten bolts are 10mm. You will also need to remove air filter and throttle body which are not that difficult either. I can give you step by step on how to do it. Just take your time and be patient.

 

Here's a tough one for you guys:

Does the AC compressor default to "on" whenever the fans are set to blow air at the windshield (defrost)?

If so - is there a way to prevent this from happening without doing some intensive surgery? I'd like the AC compressor to come on only when I specifically hit the button to turn it on.

 

i have water in my tails n headlights ... common issue i heard with the 04's .... where can i get new ones oem or oem style that wont have this issue again

 

It is a gasket change. You can either buy the updated gasket from the dealer and still have the problem eventually anyway (since the update just slowed the failure, didn't fix it), or you can follow one of the DIYs on here to permanently fix it.

 

Yes.. According to the owners manual, when front defrost is pushed, the AC comes on and the air system changes to fresh air. All the cars in my family (Mazda, Mitsubishi, Hyundai and chevy,) do this, so I am assuming it is some type of federal requirement .

I know in our 98 eclipse, it is built in to the front defrost switch. I assume there is a wire that goes from the switch to the ac, but have not investigated which one it is or what happens if this were cut.

 

How many quarts of oil would you put in a 2004 Mazda RX8?

 

This clip sounds similar to the problem I had when I needed to have my SSV cleaned. Does the sounds get worse as you rev the engine? Mine did, if so it may be a clogged/sticking SSV.

 

In my (somewhat vain) attempts to really understand the mechanical workings of the RENESIS engine I've been digging around for information on how the intake system works - since I know this is the source of many of the problems people experience with these engines; with certian valves not opening/sticking or fluttering due to carbon build up. In the process I have come across this seemingly reliable PDF file : http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/C...0000001985.pdf

This document makes reference to both the 6 port and 4 port version of the RX8 - presumably because this document was written when only the series I RX8 were being made-likely as a marketing tool by mazda (however, the document lacks any dates that would indicate when it was actually published).

My question is this: since my car is a 2009, e.g. the Series II - it has 4 total fuel injectors and 4 total intake ports - as no 6 port version was put into the series II cars (at least this is my understanding). So does that mean that my engine (intake system mainly) behaves the SAME as the 4 port engines installed in the series I, or does it retain the additional variable intake system (the variable intake valve, the secondary shutter valve, the auxiliary shutter valve and the additional fresh air intake system) seen on series I 6 ports engines? Since the power output of the series I 4 port engine is lower than the 6 port, and the power output for my series II car is the same as that of the series I 6 port I'm inclined to guess that my series II engine retains all of the power-adding benefits of the more complex intake system found in series I 6 port engines.

Also, anyone care to comment on the reliability of the information in this document as well as any other deviations between what is written in it and what is found on series II cars? It looks to me that it was published by mazda, but I can't verify this.

 

I can add a whole 5+ quarts Castrol GTX. I let my oil drain overnight, and lift the front of the car up to drain more oil out of the oil coolers. I also have a oil filter relocation kit, with a larger oil filter. If just draining and filling. 4 quarts. You should always add all but last quart and then check dipstick and then add accordingly, while checking a few times. I do by quarter quarts.

 

This is completely wrong, and the only intake difference is the SSV valve from 6-4 port (to my knowledge). But you have a 6 port FYI

 

Thanks. I realized that my original assumption about series II being 4 ports was incorrect shortly after I made that post.