Aston177

Thanks for the response RIWWP. Good to talk to you again. Thing is it was smoking quite a bit. It smokes whenever he lifts off the throttle. Back then you said blue smoke = internal oil leak :/ So this is normal?

Thanks

Aston177

I'm an iOS guy too. Easiest is to just get a cheap Android device and a bluetooth OBD2 adapter. That's what I did. I got the adapter off eBay for 7 bucks. Install Torque on the Android device you got and you're good to go As far as I know, nothing can beat the Torque app.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It all depends on the volume of smoke and when it occurs. Some smoke on hard throttle lift off is normal, some smoke on hard acceleration is normal, some smoke on low load cruising is not normal. A lot of smoke at any point in time is also not normal.

Remember that even a perfectly healthy rotary is injecting some oil...

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Normal:

Not Normal:

Aston177

OK. Thanks for the videos RIWWP. Smoke came out like in the second video, but only for a few seconds.

badinfluence

Defenders Of Speed Intake! Review! - North American Motoring

Had something like that that used the high pressure zone on the Turbo Mini hatch when I had one. Make such a sexy sound too! It pulled from either that location or the front location based on whatever had the most pressure/flow/magic......

I wish DOS didn't go out of business, I would try that intake out or just get the housing. 3D printer it is......

13RoTrB

iTrader: (1)

Hello everybody, I have a question regarding Cobb access port. I have Cobb access port which is married to another vehicle. I do have the ECU to which it is married to. My question is, if I were to plug in the married ECU into my rx8 would it be enough for me to connect the Cobb and unmary it from the ECU?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, interesting question. Presumably, yes. All the other electronics in the car are looking for the ECU you have in right now, so you won't be able to do much with the other one, but if it powers up the ECU far enough to get past the immobilizer then you should have OBD2 access to the ECU to unmarry.

I am just speculating, take it with a grain of salt.

13RoTrB

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for quick reply. I wil give it a shot as soon as get a chance.

puppet623

iTrader: (1)

Just wanted to post here for what I seem to be going though.

So this goes back to seven stock back in November.
Back here in northern California it had started to pour rain everywhere and I started to have lean code p0171. I did make it all the way down to southern California and had stopped received the code and afr was not switching from rich to lean slowly. Back the however torque said sensor 1 and or 2 was out of calibration.

All was well again till today when I drove my car hard and had received it yet again.

Now I wonder if my car had o2 sensor issues even though they have only maybe 2k miles on them with midpipe and catback.

Of course I have not had the o2 sensors checked by professional.

2004 RX8 92k miles
engine 12k
o2 2k

Now for my actual question?
Could it be my o2 sensors that have fouled up and stated to miss read in some way or could my ESS sensor or maf cause it maybe. just want the second opinion?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

2,000 miles on the sensors indicates you recently replaced them. Are you sure you bought the right ones? Many online shops and parts stores have it wrong.

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Lol..

Mod ninja beat me to it again...

Most O2 sensor problems I have seen are people trying to save a buck and getting the wrong sensors

puppet623

iTrader: (1)

they were bought from mazmart and they were 1 ea narrow band and wide band narrow is in front and wide in back soooo i dont beleive its wrong.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Ok, yup, Mazmart wouldn't have sold you the wrong ones.


The first thing i'd do, since it's cheap and easy, is get a can of MAF cleaner and clean the MAF. Then reset the fuel trims (disconnect negative battery cable for a few minutes), then start up the engine and let it idle warm, then idle for another 5-10 minutes.

P0171 is System too Lean
If that doesn't solve it, then I'd test for vacuum leaks. Note 'TEST' not 'just look'. Many vacuum leaks are diabolically hard to find.

puppet623

iTrader: (1)

Hmm well I have already cleaned it way before but here's a thought in my intake one of the screws was the wrong size and so all the threads on one of the maf holes are striped out could the maf be loose due to missing screw even though it's mounted.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

That could definitely be your problem. Leaking air from the seal in front of the MAF at the sensor wouldn't cause a vacuum leak but it would mess up the airflow across the MAF. Leaking air from the seal behind the MAF would be a vacuum leak.

puppet623

iTrader: (1)

Alright it's what I was also thinking since it doesn't happen at low Rpm but at high and there isn't any back fire or mess up in ignition that I can tell will have to replace box then when I can thanks.

Aston177

A few dumb questions if you guys don't mind.

1. I changed my oil a year ago and I've done 1500 miles. Do I have to change my oil now, or can I wait until I've done 3000 miles?
2. I live in a really hot climate (90F ambient temp) and it never gets cold, and Mazda's FL-22 Coolant isn't available. Can I buy some green coolant and run a really low coolant to water mix? Something like 15% coolant and 85% distilled water? To keep my temps lower?
3. About 6 months ago, the rubber grommet under the air intake box fell in and jammed the fan under the coolant reservoir. Although it spins fine, is it possible it slightly burned the fan motor, making it spin slower?
4. IF that is possible, can I replace the fan motor with a fan motor from a different car? Something much more powerful? Say from a big V6 or V8, to keep the temps low?

Thanks a lot

Signal 2

*Personally I would change the oil asap. Despite the low mileage, sitting that long can allow certain acidic actions to take place. Depending on the type of oil, I think contaminates can adversely affect the additives and viscosity modifiers too. Oil changes aren't expensive.
*Check the labels on other coolants. Not sure, but I think others produce the FL-22 stuff. And I would go no lower than 15% (~7:1 ratio). You need some for lubrication and corrosion protection. Regardless, be sure to use distilled water.
*If you haven't already, I'd start and let the car idle while I visually monitor the fan. If it comes on line, spins up quickly and freely, and without any unusual noises, it's probably fine. My thinking is that the fan speed is matched to the blade size and pitch for optimum performance. Sticking in a bigger motor wouldn't do much and may have consequences with too much current draw.

Edit:
A quick search looks like these are also FL-22 (no silicates) but it's google so confirm yourself:
*Motorcraft Specialty Green
*Zerex Asian
*And it looks like AMAZON has some of the MAZDA stuff... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BNVJZPQ/...sl_sv1tdtri1_e

gwilliams6

stick with fl-22 it is critical to work with the mix of metals in your engine and cooling system. Other coolants can cause permanent damage to your cooling system and give less protection in cold and hot climates. Don't try to out-think the Mazda engineers here.

Aston177

Thanks for the reply Ok so I should change the oil. But it's still gold in color. It hasn't turned dark yet. Should I change the filter as well?

OK. I'll go with a 15% mix. The coolant available at my local parts store is Caltex Havoline XLI. It says on the back that it contains 2-Ethylhexanoate salt. Is that bad for our cars?

Problem is, I can't buy stuff off Amazon.

Thanks a lot for your help

Thanks for the reply Yes, I know that FL-22 is the ideal coolant for our cars. But what can I do when even the Mazda agents don't have it They use Caltex XLI coolant. This is why I'm looking for alternatives.

Thanks.

reni04

I have had good luck with a product called "Beck/Arnley 50/50. you can check it out at www.Beckfluids.com.

I have used it a long time and i have just over 93000 miles and no ill effects.Never had a cooling issue with it.

Rx8 Dave

When you change your oil, only about half is drained out, about half stays in the oil cooler(s), rotor housings, etc. so I would change the filter too as every bit helps and it is better to be safe than sorry with an oil filter that old.

The color of the oil does not indicate effectiveness, the oil gets dark due to blow by, etc. Good color does not mean the agents in the oil haven't broken down and, remember, half the oil in the engine is already really old. Good oil and filtration are two of the main factors in keeping your engine from self destructing and it's a relatively inexpensive insurance. I change my oil and filter every 3,000 miles or three months whichever comes first. Although some may go longer, I'd rather be safe than sorry especially considering the price.

If you plan to keep your 8 for awhile consider getting a SOHN. Your 8 injects oil onto the rotors to lubricate the seals, and burns that oil. The SOHN allows you to burn 2-stroke (premix) oil that is formulated to burn and will reduce the possibility of a carbon choked engine. Install: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...w-pics-252069/ https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...dapter-233841/ Purchase: OMP Adapters - Rotary Aviation<br />.com

Also, for an inexpensive way to keep engine oil overflow out of your fresh air intake, and to help keep blow by from gumming up your valves, especially your SSV, and throttle, I suggest you get a catch can. How works: Catch Can FAQ - NASIOC Oil Catch Cans | Everything you need to know and more! INSTALL & PARTS: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-basic-164463/ Alternatives: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...ch-can-137882/ I use a catch can that vents to the atmosphere to keep the oily blow by from gumming up my intake, throttle body, and valves.


On coolant, 15% coolant to 85% DISTILLED water may work well, but I don't have experience or know of anyone going that low in coolant. Friends who race their 8s use 25-30% coolant to 75-70% distilled water. I have heard several people just use a couple or so bottles of WaterWetter® and distilled water, without any coolant at all, but I'm not sure I'm ready to depend on WaterWetter® that much even though Red Line says it "...provides corrosion and rust protection for modern aluminum and cast iron cooling systems." (Google the reviews if you're interested.) Make sure you change coolant per manufacturer requirements, if not earlier.

On the coolant to use, I recommend you AVOID any coolant with 2-ethylhexanoate known, also, as 2-EHA. Caltex Havoline XLI that contains 2-Ethylhexanoate salt is BAD for our cars.
Although a great many coolants such as Caltex Havoline, Prestone, DEX-COOL® and many others use 2-EHA, it is NOT for our 8s because it breaks down plastic in the cooling system and breaks down silicone seals in our engines leading to leaks of coolant into the engine that could cause catastrophic failure.

If you have access to Ford products, I believe Ford Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant [part VC-10-A2, or VC-10-A (premixed)] is free of 2-EHA. Whatever you chose make sure you have NO 2-ethylhexanoate (2-EHA). See, https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...licone-238638/

Hope all this helps.

Rx8 Dave

P.S. When you change your coolant, remember to drain the block: Normalexception.net - RX8 Coolant Flush

Signal 2

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...Dp%3d3%26N%3d0

Antifreeze/Coolant Zerex 675130 - Engine Coolant/Anti-Freeze | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Looks like WalMart also carries it. Do you have a NAPA, O'Reilly's or Walmart near you?