Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
New Member
Joined: Feb 2015
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Hello all!
I've been trying find the right info when turning your rx8 off.. Should I let it idle for a few minutes then turn off?
also, one of my back lights went out when I turn my lights on but when I break it goes on does anyone know a DIY way to fix the light?
thanks!
I've been trying find the right info when turning your rx8 off.. Should I let it idle for a few minutes then turn off?
also, one of my back lights went out when I turn my lights on but when I break it goes on does anyone know a DIY way to fix the light?
thanks!
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...4/#post4533729
The reverse light thing sounds like someone reconnected some wires wrong, you are going to need to do some wire tracing with a factory wiring diagram noting which colors are which wires.
How do I shut off an RX-8?
This somewhat ridiculous question keeps popping up recently. Other than the obvious "turn the key counter clockwise and remove", there is literally nothing special that you have to do. You will find people that insist that I am wrong in making this statement, but no, it is just that they are taking one symptom and extrapolating preventative measures even further off base than they already were. For example, you will find people that swear by reving the engine to 4,000rpm in neutral and cutting the key out there, with the revs up. They are doing this under the assumption that the faster spinning rotors will help sweep excess fuel out of the rotor housing, to prevent a flood. The problem with this idea is already explained in the Flooding section above. If your engine is already warm, there is no excess fuel being dumped in! (Except perhaps the fuel needed to rev to 4,000rpm). Shutting it off at 4,000rpm is no different in terms of fuel than shutting it off at 750rpm. If your engine is currently cold, then this could only POSSIBLY have an impact if your ignition or starter or battery is failing, in which case 'yes', it might help prevent a flood. But a flood is a symptom of another issue anyway, and only happens on START, not on SHUTDOWN.
This somewhat ridiculous question keeps popping up recently. Other than the obvious "turn the key counter clockwise and remove", there is literally nothing special that you have to do. You will find people that insist that I am wrong in making this statement, but no, it is just that they are taking one symptom and extrapolating preventative measures even further off base than they already were. For example, you will find people that swear by reving the engine to 4,000rpm in neutral and cutting the key out there, with the revs up. They are doing this under the assumption that the faster spinning rotors will help sweep excess fuel out of the rotor housing, to prevent a flood. The problem with this idea is already explained in the Flooding section above. If your engine is already warm, there is no excess fuel being dumped in! (Except perhaps the fuel needed to rev to 4,000rpm). Shutting it off at 4,000rpm is no different in terms of fuel than shutting it off at 750rpm. If your engine is currently cold, then this could only POSSIBLY have an impact if your ignition or starter or battery is failing, in which case 'yes', it might help prevent a flood. But a flood is a symptom of another issue anyway, and only happens on START, not on SHUTDOWN.
The reverse light thing sounds like someone reconnected some wires wrong, you are going to need to do some wire tracing with a factory wiring diagram noting which colors are which wires.
Thread Starter
Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Moving on... I have a dumb question.
Why do my brakes scream at me when I use them? It only happens at moderate pressure (about what you'd use for casually stopping at a light). It only seems to be coming from the front, maybe only the front left wheel. Looking at the pads there's about 6-7mm left on each side of each pair.
Is it just the compound?
Why do my brakes scream at me when I use them? It only happens at moderate pressure (about what you'd use for casually stopping at a light). It only seems to be coming from the front, maybe only the front left wheel. Looking at the pads there's about 6-7mm left on each side of each pair.
Is it just the compound?
What compound is it ?
Wankler
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 175
Likes: 1
From: Atlanta, Georgia
Turning Off Car, Tail Light Out Except When Brake
Hello all!
I've been trying find the right info when turning your rx8 off.. Should I let it idle for a few minutes then turn off?
also, one of my back lights went out when I turn my lights on but when I break it goes on does anyone know a DIY way to fix the light?
thanks!
I've been trying find the right info when turning your rx8 off.. Should I let it idle for a few minutes then turn off?
also, one of my back lights went out when I turn my lights on but when I break it goes on does anyone know a DIY way to fix the light?
thanks!
If you have a Series I with one tail /stop light on each side, it has two filaments in each bulb. One of the filaments is burned out. Replace the bad bulb.
Wankler
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 175
Likes: 1
From: Atlanta, Georgia
Coolant, Engine Flush
If you're going to change your coolant remember to drain the block and flush with distilled water: Normalexception.net - RX8 Coolant Flush
Registered
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 37
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Noise!
My Shinka has started making a rhythmic clunking noise at 37 mph....ever since my husband tried to "fix" the brakes. Now I'm afraid to take it anywhere....I know it needs new pads and rotors but is it possible he screwed something else up when he tried to take it apart (and failed)
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 64
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From: Patterson GA
car wont start ... need for work
Code P2102 .... I know it has to do with the throttle body actuator circuit being low... I was wondering if I spilled oil while adding some on top of the engine is there a connection down there that may b causing the problem ??
Try pulling off the air box and giving the throttle body and the rest of the intake a good cleaning. Oil deposits may have built up, causing an issue with the movement.
Last edited by Legot; Feb 4, 2015 at 06:09 PM.
My Shinka has started making a rhythmic clunking noise at 37 mph....ever since my husband tried to "fix" the brakes. Now I'm afraid to take it anywhere....I know it needs new pads and rotors but is it possible he screwed something else up when he tried to take it apart (and failed)
One of the pads could be seated crooked, the caliper slide bolt could be stuck causing a pad to rub on a possibly warped rotor.
Brakes are something that need to be replaced correctly, or problems could result.
Also allowing pads & rotors to get too thin can cause caliper damage.
You really should get them fixed if you need them.
Maybe there's a member in your area that would be willing to help you out.
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From: Patterson GA
If I add oil while care is running could it suck oil threw the over fill line into the intake and gum up the inside like u were saying ??
I agree with BC, why would you be doing that? If you fill oil while it's running it will definitely suck up allot of oil, the system puts suction on the filler neck that goes directly to the throttle body. If you've been doing that then IMO you should clean out your UIM, LIM, and filter box, along with the throttle body.
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Patterson GA
I agree with BC, why would you be doing that? If you fill oil while it's running it will definitely suck up allot of oil, the system puts suction on the filler neck that goes directly to the throttle body. If you've been doing that then IMO you should clean out your UIM, LIM, and filter box, along with the throttle body.
Well .... I knew it sucked up some ... But I didn't know it sucked up a lot .... I thought it wouldn't matter that much because the engine injects oil in anyway to lube the seals ... I aDr oil when I get to the gas station. I am letting the car idle for a minute or 2 while adding the oil b4 turning off .... But now that I know this I Won't be doing so anymore .... Guess this is anothor reminder of the fact that I still don't know much about this car ...even after haveing it for over a year ... Thanks fellas for the lesson I will get to cleaning the throttle body and intake today
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Joined: Feb 2015
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Hello, I have purchased an RX8 about 2 months ago, and since then have been enjoying what this great car comes with! I know the basics to the car.. But I am looking to make upgrades to the car and i dont know where to start.. If someone would like to have conversation about the car then feel free to PM me to answer my questions! But as for the questions i need answered:
According to the stereo place, the stereo place, my unit has "died" and went for repair.. is this usuall?
I want to make mods/upgrades soon, what should I go after first, what would be most beneficial for me? I guess that depends on what i want for the car & what i do with it.. So if you would like to talk for talk for a little let me know! THANKS I AM NEW HERE!
According to the stereo place, the stereo place, my unit has "died" and went for repair.. is this usuall?
I want to make mods/upgrades soon, what should I go after first, what would be most beneficial for me? I guess that depends on what i want for the car & what i do with it.. So if you would like to talk for talk for a little let me know! THANKS I AM NEW HERE!
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Patterson GA
P0113-Intake air temp. Circuit high input
P0123- throttle position sencer 1 high input
P0223- throttle posittion sencer 2 high input
P0443P0443-Evap. Emission control system purge control valve circuit malfunction
I'm really hopeing it's not a harness short :'( ... But it is what they all have in common with posable causes :'( what u guys think .... When I spilled oil in the engine compartment I did get it on the sencer right next to the oil feed neck ?? Is this 1 of the sencers listed above ??
Ok well ..cleaned the throttle body was a little dirty but it has bn worse and worked fine ... I'll go clean the maf now as well but it is now throwing 4 codes instead of just the 1 from b4 .. they r
P0113-Intake air temp. Circuit high input
P0123- throttle position sencer 1 high input
P0223- throttle posittion sencer 2 high input
P0443P0443-Evap. Emission control system purge control valve circuit malfunction
I'm really hopeing it's not a harness short :'( ... But it is what they all have in common with posable causes :'( what u guys think .... When I spilled oil in the engine compartment I did get it on the sencer right next to the oil feed neck ?? Is this 1 of the sencers listed above ??
P0113-Intake air temp. Circuit high input
P0123- throttle position sencer 1 high input
P0223- throttle posittion sencer 2 high input
P0443P0443-Evap. Emission control system purge control valve circuit malfunction
I'm really hopeing it's not a harness short :'( ... But it is what they all have in common with posable causes :'( what u guys think .... When I spilled oil in the engine compartment I did get it on the sencer right next to the oil feed neck ?? Is this 1 of the sencers listed above ??
Why would it be a harness short? Is there something important that you've neglected telling us?
Since it's both throttle body sensors, you may just have to do both ecu resets to clear it up. It's unlikely that the TB is faulty since the sensors are completely independent of one another.
I thought p0433 was something with the catalyst, but I could be wrong. My suggestion is to work on the other codes and ignore the last one until those are resolved. Don't try shotgunning solutions because that never works.
Also could you type with words instead of texting? Is confusing, especially for the oooooold guys around here.
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From: Patterson GA
The first code is coming from what's likely a dirty MAF (the IAT sensor is attached to it) so just clean it up and you should be golden.
Why would it be a harness short? Is there something important that you've neglected telling us?
Since it's both throttle body sensors, you may just have to do both ecu resets to clear it up. It's unlikely that the TB is faulty since the sensors are completely independent of one another.
I thought p0433 was something with the catalyst, but I could be wrong. My suggestion is to work on the other codes and ignore the last one until those are resolved. Don't try shotgunning solutions because that never works.
Also could you type with words instead of texting? Is confusing, especially for the oooooold guys around here.
Why would it be a harness short? Is there something important that you've neglected telling us?
Since it's both throttle body sensors, you may just have to do both ecu resets to clear it up. It's unlikely that the TB is faulty since the sensors are completely independent of one another.
I thought p0433 was something with the catalyst, but I could be wrong. My suggestion is to work on the other codes and ignore the last one until those are resolved. Don't try shotgunning solutions because that never works.
Also could you type with words instead of texting? Is confusing, especially for the oooooold guys around here.
just habit I guess. Sending info from phone. And no. I've told u everything I can think of that has happened since it was running fine just a few days ago. Only reason I keep bringing it up is, it's just what all of the codes show as a posable problem. I'll go clean the MAF real quick and see if that changes anything.
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From: Patterson GA
Just finished cleaning MAF .... Then reset ecu by removing battery for 2 minutes. All codes gone but no turn over. Tommarow in the daylight I will double check throttle body with helper to ensure it is opening properly and check all fuses. Should have started with fuses honestly but didn't think about it. Have had a problem with ignition fuses bbefore when I broke O2 sencer on cat. 6 months ago ... if those r not the problem then I may just drag her to the dealer And c if they can figure it out :'(
Last edited by kallenthe8; Feb 6, 2015 at 06:01 PM.
Try doing the 20 brake stomp reset, then leave the battery unplugged for at least 10 minutes. If you don't do both it will cause issues in the short or longer term, that's probably why it won't start right now.
Don't take it to a dealer. They don't know anything about this car.
Don't take it to a dealer. They don't know anything about this car.
Last edited by Legot; Feb 6, 2015 at 08:22 PM.
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From: Patterson GA
Try doing the 20 brake stomp reset, then leave the battery unplugged for at least 10 minutes. If you don't do both it will cause issues in the short or longer term, that's probably why it won't start right now.
Don't take it to a dealer. They don't know anything about this car.
Don't take it to a dealer. They don't know anything about this car.