Did the temp numbers match and make sense?

 

Oh haha I said I read this one lol didn't try it. I tried a different one. Ill try it in a few minutes when I leave work

 

Blue,

It's not exactly a "quick" fix but it doesn't take forever either.

You have to remove your radio and the controls, break them down to the circuit board and remove the old "cold solder".

Once thats done you can resolder them and re assemble.

Johnny5 would be proud after.


Travis

 

So does this test to check the climate control work with an aftermarket stereo?

 

Lol if i remove it i wont gave sound or heat lmfao and i dont think i trust anyone with my car lol

 

Puttimg my business out there lol jk jk. Hopefully it does I was able to change the settings up top....just cant get to what you guys are talking about

 

I was jus askin

 

jk jk lol I appreciate it

 

Hi im very new to the rx8 can someone please let me know how I should properly start my car and turn off without flooding and also why my car takes about 10 min before I can turn it on at a gas station ? and even then it takes a min to turn on but that's only when I get gas :/

 

I should also add I have an automatic car not standard don't know if that makes a difference?

 

I did try to set the panic off with the keyfob only the lights flash and the horn makes no sound. I was curious if there is an alarm reset, I could swear I read about that somewhere on here, pulling an ETS fuse or something. But that would probably only affect the horn during alarm ON sound, and should affect the horn from working when I hit the steering wheel. So it sounds like either the horn is burned out or it is stuck in that mode like you said.

It is stupid to ask but I cannot actually even find the horn on the car. I have thebumper off and I don't see where it is located at to try and unplug it and replug it in or to try a power tester when pressed to see if its getting power.

 

If Im trying to monitor engine temps and using the program "tourque", should I be using the coolant temp gauge? Im seeing between 170F and 195F moving, and around 200F-208F at idle. Never seen more than 208F. Normal?

 

Torque coolant temp gauge is fine. Those temps are normal.

 

Completely normal. What are your ambient temps?

 

Ambient temp here is around 65F. Whats the "danger zone" then coolant temp wise?

 

Your temps are fine Anything above 220F is bad for the engine. I try to keep my temps below 215F. It's harder for me because it's 95F over here haha.

 

Oil left, water right, 80mph cruise (80mph speed limit). Worthy of this thread

 

Still in need of some advice, if any knows the answer to my problem I would greatly appreciate the answer.. The problem seems to be clutch and it stinks.. I put her in first gear and she refuses to move until I reach 7000 rpm.. Obviously she just crawls along so I can't drive her.. It is also impossible to stall the motor.. Does anyone have any idea what it could be?? Do I need a whole clutch kit or maybe even gears?

 

So my friend was flooring it on the highway. And suddenly the temp needle moved. He immediately slowed down and pulled over. Popped the hood and the coolant tank cap lock was broken. A small piece of plastic came off when he took the cap off. Coolant was all over the engine bay. Coolant tank was completely empty. We kept filling the coolant but it just kept coming out with smoke.

Tried cranking it. When we crank it the coolant shoots out of the coolant cap.

Plugged OBD2 in. Shows P0327 code.


What's wrong?

 

Was smoke coming from the exhaust?

 

I'm not sure. We didn't check the exhaust.

Does anyone know if his engine is toast?

 

Well where was it coming from?

Probably.

 

Oh you mean the smoke? When we filled the reservoir with water, smoke came out from the resevoir opening. And then when we tried to start it, as the car cranked, coolant would shoot 3-4 feet out from the reservoir opening.

 

No one on a forum can give you an exact diagnosis on that or tell you the health of his engine.

From what you have said, it sounds like his coolant bottle is old and brittle. Due to the pressure of the system, a piece of the cap neck broke off, which unsealed the system. Coolant began to spew out, which reduced the amount of available coolant to handle the heat generated by his hard driving, which super heated the remaining coolant. Pouring more coolant into an overheated system super heated it too, producing more steam.

At the very least, he needs to replace that coolant bottle and perform a flush and fill on the coolant. He also needs to inspect the entire cooling system for any other problems.

There is no way for us to know if the engine reached the critical temperature for damage. That is something you will have to find out for yourselves.

 

He said the needle moved to 70%. 10 mins after stopping the car the coolant was reading 215F. I checked with my OBD2 scanner. The problem is even after filling up the coolant, the engine doesn't start. Cranks but won't start.