Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#4651
After it cooled down, did coolant spray out of the reservoir when you crank it? That's indicative of engine compression leaking into the coolant system which means major engine damage, but I'm fairly new to the world of rotaries so that's about as specific as I can get.
#4652
Sicker than your average
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After it cooled down, did coolant spray out of the reservoir when you crank it? That's indicative of engine compression leaking into the coolant system which means major engine damage, but I'm fairly new to the world of rotaries so that's about as specific as I can get.
Darn so the engine is gone? But the coolant temp guage didn't hit the max. It just moved off center. That's all.
#4653
Water Foul
The coolant temp gauge is worthless. Your OBD measurement is probably suspect as well. If you lost a lot of coolant, the sensor was probably measuring the air temperature of the system. The coolant itself was probably much hotter.
#4654
Too old for PC
The stock temp gauge is NOT linear. That means if it moves upward at all, by the time you noticed it you've already overheated. And it sounds like you've seriously overheated. Because of that, it's probably is a failed coolant seal. Still, I recommend you refill and burp the cooling system. Re-check ALL hoses, including heater hoses, making sure they're intact and have a good seal. Then pressure test the cooling system. Pressure testers are usually available from chain parts stores for free with a deposit. I'd put ~ 15 -16 psi on it and see if it holds, or see if additional symptoms appear before drawing hard conclusions.
#4655
Still in need of some advice, if any knows the answer to my problem I would greatly appreciate the answer.. The problem seems to be clutch and it stinks.. I put her in first gear and she refuses to move until I reach 7000 rpm.. Obviously she just crawls along so I can't drive her.. It is also impossible to stall the motor.. Does anyone have any idea what it could be?? Do I need a whole clutch kit or maybe even gears?
#4657
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Still in need of some advice, if any knows the answer to my problem I would greatly appreciate the answer.. The problem seems to be clutch and it stinks.. I put her in first gear and she refuses to move until I reach 7000 rpm.. Obviously she just crawls along so I can't drive her.. It is also impossible to stall the motor.. Does anyone have any idea what it could be?? Do I need a whole clutch kit or maybe even gears?
And you likely will need a flywheel if you have been burning it up that much
#4659
Like I said before, your problem is with the clutch linkage, not the clutch itself. Clutch plates don't slip that bad no matter how worn they are. They just aren't engaging. Now depending on how much you've attempted to move the car, you may have overheated it, but as little as it's engaging, I doubt it.
#4660
Water Foul
Rotaries do not need backpressure.
#4661
Professional Videographer
As I was in the process of changing out my old coils for new ones, I dropped 1 of the 4 nuts below the base plate the BHR coils attach to. When I tried removing it, it bumped backwards towards the engine. I can't see but from what I heard when it dropped, it didn't go anywhere but right behind that base plate near the engine.
-Can I get this out without having to remove the entire assembly again?
-Will the nut in this location vibrate out if I turn the engine on? Will it cause harm where it is located?
-In the event I can't get to it, what screw size is it or what model number is it so I can order another? Went to a shop but they didn't seem to have the same nut type, nor did I know what thread to get.
-Can I get this out without having to remove the entire assembly again?
-Will the nut in this location vibrate out if I turn the engine on? Will it cause harm where it is located?
-In the event I can't get to it, what screw size is it or what model number is it so I can order another? Went to a shop but they didn't seem to have the same nut type, nor did I know what thread to get.
#4662
Professional Videographer
Question about BHR's header and resonator system. They have a note saying it doesn't work with the stock cat and exhaust. But several people say they did it no problem. If I got the header and the resonator, do I need to do something special to the cat to get it to install properly? And what error codes will I end up with/need to fix/how?
Also, BHR offers an intake system. Wouldn't mind having this since it is so ridiculously hard to remove the cordian hose. Is it necessary to get that tray along with it? Does that help with air flow or is that tray purely aesthetic? Also, they boast some power and torque gains with that air intake, but I was under the impression the RX8 doesn't really benefit from an intake. Is it worth having from a performance perspective?
Also, BHR offers an intake system. Wouldn't mind having this since it is so ridiculously hard to remove the cordian hose. Is it necessary to get that tray along with it? Does that help with air flow or is that tray purely aesthetic? Also, they boast some power and torque gains with that air intake, but I was under the impression the RX8 doesn't really benefit from an intake. Is it worth having from a performance perspective?
#4663
Dark Moderator
iTrader: (18)
With your questions for the BHR header I would say contact Ray. He really is a nice guy. I'm sure he would be happy to answer your questions. I know there has been a thread created for a review of this as well. If you Google RX8club:BHR header you should get some easy links.
As for an intake.. Mazda did a VERY good job at this. The only two I know of that offer any Real benefit are the AEM and Mazdaspeed which are basically the exact same.
EDIT: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aft...review-256531/
hope that helps
Travis
As for an intake.. Mazda did a VERY good job at this. The only two I know of that offer any Real benefit are the AEM and Mazdaspeed which are basically the exact same.
EDIT: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aft...review-256531/
hope that helps
Travis
#4664
Professional Videographer
With your questions for the BHR header I would say contact Ray. He really is a nice guy. I'm sure he would be happy to answer your questions. I know there has been a thread created for a review of this as well. If you Google RX8club:BHR header you should get some easy links.
As for an intake.. Mazda did a VERY good job at this. The only two I know of that offer any Real benefit are the AEM and Mazdaspeed which are basically the exact same.
EDIT: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aft...review-256531/
hope that helps
Travis
As for an intake.. Mazda did a VERY good job at this. The only two I know of that offer any Real benefit are the AEM and Mazdaspeed which are basically the exact same.
EDIT: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aft...review-256531/
hope that helps
Travis
#4666
Professional Videographer
What is the thread size of the 10 mm nuts that hold the coils in place? Is this the same? https://www.belmetric.com/ntl10x125y...cPath=3_54_949
Went by mazda to get a small pouch of these and they were gonna charge me $25 for 4 of them...
Went by mazda to get a small pouch of these and they were gonna charge me $25 for 4 of them...
#4667
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Swing by lowes or home depot, go to their hardware section with the drawers. Bags of 5 for like 60 cents. I empty my local lowes of it's contents periodically. They will rust over time, so keep that in mind, but it's handy to have spares of the M6 bolts and nuts available since they are used all over the car. I have only ever found 1 thread pitch for the 10m stuff there, and it's the right thread pitch. I can't recall which pitch it is though.
And yes, M6 is the size you want, not M10. M6 bolts and nuts use 10mm sockets/wrenches in every case I've found. M8s usually use 12mms from dealer stuff, and 13mm from aftermarket stuff.
And yes, M6 is the size you want, not M10. M6 bolts and nuts use 10mm sockets/wrenches in every case I've found. M8s usually use 12mms from dealer stuff, and 13mm from aftermarket stuff.
#4668
I bought a 2004 rx8 with 88,000 miles on it when going to start it the car takes at least 6 seconds before it cranks up any ideas on why i know the ignition coils go out pretty often but would that throw a solid check engine light
#4669
Too old for PC
*Old, worn plugs and/or plug wires
*Old gas
*Low compression
*Weak battery
*Weak starter
*Dirty, leaking injectors (flooding?)
#4670
#4671
Hi All,
I'm buying a 2006 RX8 GT - 6MT.
When I am looking for after market parts in the brake and handling, I noticed the following asks: Normal, Sport suspension, or Bilstein shocks. How do I know what my car has?
I'm buying a 2006 RX8 GT - 6MT.
When I am looking for after market parts in the brake and handling, I noticed the following asks: Normal, Sport suspension, or Bilstein shocks. How do I know what my car has?
#4672
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
lol this is the first question i asked here and 9k flamed me for it. all m/t cars have sport suspension/brakes. i think the bilstiens were on the s2 8s and maybe the shinkas
#4673
#4674
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If you have a Shinka (different interior, FM antenna, door labels), then you have the Bilsteins.
If you don't have a Shinka and have a manual transmission, you have the Sport
If you don't have a Shinka and have an automatic transmission, then if you have a moonroof you have the Sport
So the only way you have the rather rare 'standard' (terribly named), is if you have a base model automatic transmission equipped RX-8. Add any higher trim (Touring or Grand Touring, both of which add the moonroof that is the easiest tell-tale sign), or add manual, and you automatically got the Sport suspension. Bilstein shocks for 2006 were only on the Shinka.
If you don't have a Shinka and have a manual transmission, you have the Sport
If you don't have a Shinka and have an automatic transmission, then if you have a moonroof you have the Sport
So the only way you have the rather rare 'standard' (terribly named), is if you have a base model automatic transmission equipped RX-8. Add any higher trim (Touring or Grand Touring, both of which add the moonroof that is the easiest tell-tale sign), or add manual, and you automatically got the Sport suspension. Bilstein shocks for 2006 were only on the Shinka.