After it cooled down, did coolant spray out of the reservoir when you crank it? That's indicative of engine compression leaking into the coolant system which means major engine damage, but I'm fairly new to the world of rotaries so that's about as specific as I can get.

 

Yes it did. When we cranked it, coolant shot up a good 3-4 feet out of the resevoir.

Darn so the engine is gone? But the coolant temp guage didn't hit the max. It just moved off center. That's all.

 

The coolant temp gauge is worthless. Your OBD measurement is probably suspect as well. If you lost a lot of coolant, the sensor was probably measuring the air temperature of the system. The coolant itself was probably much hotter.

 

The stock temp gauge is NOT linear. That means if it moves upward at all, by the time you noticed it you've already overheated. And it sounds like you've seriously overheated. Because of that, it's probably is a failed coolant seal. Still, I recommend you refill and burp the cooling system. Re-check ALL hoses, including heater hoses, making sure they're intact and have a good seal. Then pressure test the cooling system. Pressure testers are usually available from chain parts stores for free with a deposit. I'd put ~ 15 -16 psi on it and see if it holds, or see if additional symptoms appear before drawing hard conclusions.

 

Still in need of some advice, if any knows the answer to my problem I would greatly appreciate the answer.. The problem seems to be clutch and it stinks.. I put her in first gear and she refuses to move until I reach 7000 rpm.. Obviously she just crawls along so I can't drive her.. It is also impossible to stall the motor.. Does anyone have any idea what it could be?? Do I need a whole clutch kit or maybe even gears?

 

Clutch kit, your clutch is completely shot. Stick with OEM.

 

And you likely will need a flywheel if you have been burning it up that much

 

Will my engine be ok if run full catless straight pipes, will i lose some backpressure?

 

Like I said before, your problem is with the clutch linkage, not the clutch itself. Clutch plates don't slip that bad no matter how worn they are. They just aren't engaging. Now depending on how much you've attempted to move the car, you may have overheated it, but as little as it's engaging, I doubt it.

 

Your engine will be OK, but your ears will not be. Rotaries are insanely obnoxious without resonators and mufflers. Check into a BHR resontated midpipe and keep your catback in place.

Rotaries do not need backpressure.

 

As I was in the process of changing out my old coils for new ones, I dropped 1 of the 4 nuts below the base plate the BHR coils attach to. When I tried removing it, it bumped backwards towards the engine. I can't see but from what I heard when it dropped, it didn't go anywhere but right behind that base plate near the engine.

-Can I get this out without having to remove the entire assembly again?
-Will the nut in this location vibrate out if I turn the engine on? Will it cause harm where it is located?
-In the event I can't get to it, what screw size is it or what model number is it so I can order another? Went to a shop but they didn't seem to have the same nut type, nor did I know what thread to get.

 

Question about BHR's header and resonator system. They have a note saying it doesn't work with the stock cat and exhaust. But several people say they did it no problem. If I got the header and the resonator, do I need to do something special to the cat to get it to install properly? And what error codes will I end up with/need to fix/how?

Also, BHR offers an intake system. Wouldn't mind having this since it is so ridiculously hard to remove the cordian hose. Is it necessary to get that tray along with it? Does that help with air flow or is that tray purely aesthetic? Also, they boast some power and torque gains with that air intake, but I was under the impression the RX8 doesn't really benefit from an intake. Is it worth having from a performance perspective?

 

With your questions for the BHR header I would say contact Ray. He really is a nice guy. I'm sure he would be happy to answer your questions. I know there has been a thread created for a review of this as well. If you Google RX8club:BHR header you should get some easy links.

As for an intake.. Mazda did a VERY good job at this. The only two I know of that offer any Real benefit are the AEM and Mazdaspeed which are basically the exact same.


EDIT: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aft...review-256531/
hope that helps

Travis

 

Awesome thanks.

 

Oh i was just making sure cuz i have a gutted cat and a muffler delete and yeah its loud but i can control the sound when theres cops around.

 

What is the thread size of the 10 mm nuts that hold the coils in place? Is this the same? https://www.belmetric.com/ntl10x125y...cPath=3_54_949

Went by mazda to get a small pouch of these and they were gonna charge me $25 for 4 of them...

 

Swing by lowes or home depot, go to their hardware section with the drawers. Bags of 5 for like 60 cents. I empty my local lowes of it's contents periodically. They will rust over time, so keep that in mind, but it's handy to have spares of the M6 bolts and nuts available since they are used all over the car. I have only ever found 1 thread pitch for the 10m stuff there, and it's the right thread pitch. I can't recall which pitch it is though.

And yes, M6 is the size you want, not M10. M6 bolts and nuts use 10mm sockets/wrenches in every case I've found. M8s usually use 12mms from dealer stuff, and 13mm from aftermarket stuff.

 

I bought a 2004 rx8 with 88,000 miles on it when going to start it the car takes at least 6 seconds before it cranks up any ideas on why i know the ignition coils go out pretty often but would that throw a solid check engine light

 

In addition to RIWWP's suggestion, another option is your local U-PULL-IT salvage yard. The ones local to me charge $2 to get in. Go to the foreign section, find a Mazda and fill your pockets. Pull the 10mm and screws mostly from the interior...those are always plated and/or rust-free. The others, 12mm and 14mm from all over the rest of the car/engine bay. If you're real lucky and a little ambitious, there are sometimes Inconel or plated nuts and studs that aren't too bad to get off after others have gotten various parts out of the way.

Things I can think of off-hand to check that won't throw codes:
*Old, worn plugs and/or plug wires
*Old gas
*Low compression
*Weak battery
*Weak starter
*Dirty, leaking injectors (flooding?)

 

NEVER rely on the check engine light to tell you something is wrong.

Coils, plugs, wires, starter, battery, or engine compression. Your problem is with 1 or more of these.

 

Hi All,

I'm buying a 2006 RX8 GT - 6MT.

When I am looking for after market parts in the brake and handling, I noticed the following asks: Normal, Sport suspension, or Bilstein shocks. How do I know what my car has?

 

lol this is the first question i asked here and 9k flamed me for it. all m/t cars have sport suspension/brakes. i think the bilstiens were on the s2 8s and maybe the shinkas

 

Thanks man! I am glad they have this thread to anti-flame :D

 

If you have a Shinka (different interior, FM antenna, door labels), then you have the Bilsteins.

If you don't have a Shinka and have a manual transmission, you have the Sport

If you don't have a Shinka and have an automatic transmission, then if you have a moonroof you have the Sport


So the only way you have the rather rare 'standard' (terribly named), is if you have a base model automatic transmission equipped RX-8. Add any higher trim (Touring or Grand Touring, both of which add the moonroof that is the easiest tell-tale sign), or add manual, and you automatically got the Sport suspension. Bilstein shocks for 2006 were only on the Shinka.

 

Here's a dumb question.

Is one radiator fan supposed to be harder to spin (by hand/stick) than the other, or are they supposed to be about equal?