Hah! Something is definitely not right. My cruise oil temp is more like 190.

 

So thanks to BCC I was able to find the code for my immobilizer issue:
That's explained more here:
https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/...2e3801200.html

So it's an issue between the keyless module and the PCM. It looks like the PCM has locked up somehow, so resetting the NVRAM via the 20 brake stomp isn't working. Where can I go from here?

 

Idk, I'd just be guessing, you'll probably need someone more knowledgeable.
I had a coil wire short that was fairly easy to fix.
The codes in that troubleshooting site I believe can only be read by special Mazda diagnostic software, but I'm not sure.
The Cobb Accessport can reflash the PCM I think, but again, Idk if that will help.

 

It's totally locked, I can't communicate on the CAN bus at all.

 

I would look for blown fuses or a short. It's not going to be fun.

 

]
I figured I had a bit more time on those B coils.


We think alike, the it was the reason I cleaned them a few months ago. I think I am going to replace them completely since they are still pretty clean. I may try the post stretcher since that is a 2 dollar quickfix. Long term is a 51R replacement, relocation to the trunk, and a Supercapacitor in the front for a higher voltage, fast amp start.

I had the alternator tested about 1k ago. The dealer claims it is ok, same with the battery and the electrical system.

The chase begins, thanks for the advice guys.


On the offset it isn't the connections, are there any specific points on the ECU's positive that I can check? Grounding is obvious, but I am thinking maybe the other half.

 

When my coil wire wad shorting, it would blow the engine fuse.
That would trigger the 'no communication with the coil' code, the coil being the immobilizer antenna in the steering column.

 

Check the room ( i think?)fuse inside the car....if it is blown the OBD port doesn't get any power

 

I have to change the belts in the 8 and was considering upgrading the pulleys, as well. All the kits I see are 2-3 pulleys but some pictures I see of the rx8 have 7. Can someone clarify how many belts and pulleys I should be replacing here?

Also, I was reading 2 pulley threads here and saw UR and SR to be the prime choices by people here. Does SR really make 12 hp gains? I doubt it but was wondering. I called and left a message at each store, was wondering how much of a weight difference is there between SR, UR, and OEM pulleys. If anyone knows, could you post some results?

1 more question: SR makes a wide grip pulley. Is this necessary for non-FI engines? I will at most get header and exhaust work done after the pulleys. If I do go forced induction, it will be some time away. Everything else is suspension and chassis work. Wide grip necessary?

 

What was the ambient temp? At 60mph in 95F weather my car's water temp is around 190F. Too much?

 

Can you clarify this a bit more? I am wondering if how this comes to pass. (the coil shorting)

 

It wasn't a stock coil.
I installed the BHR ignition and a wire got pinched between the harness and engine lifting bracket.
I removed the bracket to avoid

that in the future.

 

I'll let RIWWP answer, but I'm willing to bet his cooling system is not stock, as that is an unusually low coolant temp.

My S2 car with stock cooling cruises at 179.6F on the highway in warm weather, and just a little higher at 183.2F in hot weather with the AC on.

I think yours is probably about right for an S1 car with stock cooling.

 

It was a demonstration of how there is always more to consider.

Both temps indicated are ~12F below their resspective thermostats, which is functionally impossible if measured at the correct points. Measuring one part of the cooling system will get you different numbers than measuring at another point. And you can never get below your thermostat temp regardless of ambient.

I have determined that my issue here is a signal grounding problem messing with the gauge accuracy. But still. Never think in absolutes, always look for other possibilities.

(172f thermostat, rest is new stock system)

 

Thank you! At what speed? For a second I thought my radiator is clogged up haha

Oh that's why it's so low. Yeah I know that it's all about where the sensor measures the temp. Thanks for the detailed explanation. Did you buy another 8?

 

The cruising speed doesn't much matter with my car. The coolant temp stays pretty much the same anywhere from 55 to 85mph.

Ambient temps here reach 110+ in August, and the car runs a little hotter then, but not much. But, I usually leave the car in the garage for most of July and August, so it doesn't really metter.

 

Just trying to get this straight. Mazda didn't start using FL-22 until 2005 in the RX8, so any 2004 RX8 from the factory didn't have FL-22 correct? Just trying to figure out if my information is correct or if i'm reading this paper wrong.

 

lmfao don't defend him. Haha yeah I know exactly how to get him how to read it all lol. haha focusing

 

I don't know why I am blocked from posting my RX8 for sale, dumb question but it is a question. All the links to words like "account" are going to advertising and not where it would normally take me to is rather over-the-top... marketing...... come on guys that's kind of desperate SMH!!

 

Should clear shortly. Go to new member subforum and read the announcement about why if you are interested

 

Hey guys I have a 2005 Rx8 that just DIED while driving down the street (engine went off, electrical went off, everything). I towed it do dealership. Its been 2 days and the mechanic still doesn't know what's going on. When I just talked to the service rep who said he talked to mechanic and said:
"Every time he turns the ignition, it blows a fuse. There is something shorting the circuit (?)"

I'm so confused and dont know what he's talking about.

Does anyone know (1) what my problem is? and (2) how much i should budget to pay? and most importantly (3) how do I make sure I dont get hosed

 

can we have some details please. did it slowly stall or just die? any warning lights? did things go dim first? any strange noises?

 

No offense, but the closest we can answer is what you already said: You are blowing a fuse.

WHICH fuse is pretty important, and we can't suggest a problem or a fix until we know which one.

 

If you have an aftermarket coil setup, check those wires.
It happened to me, pinched against the engine lift bracket.

 

I was driving down street at 30mph and car just SHUT OFF in like two seconds. All interior lights off, engine off, everything. Just stopped dead in middle of street. When I tried to restart, no response at all. No interior lights, nothing. I had to have 2 people push me to space on side of street and I was in middle of downtown

no strainge noises. things went dim but went dim in like ONE SECOND.

Thanks for your help!