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Old Jul 7, 2015 | 06:42 PM
  #4951  
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[QUOTE=RIWWP;4703569]All revisions of coils fit all USDM spec RX-8s without any modifications or ECU problems.

Thanks RIWWP.
Coils are ordered and they'll be replaced this weekend

Thanks to the other guys for the quick replies also!
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Old Jul 8, 2015 | 08:02 AM
  #4952  
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
All revisions of coils fit all USDM spec RX-8s without any modifications or ECU problems. (The exceptions you may hear about are JDM spec RX-8s, or at least with their ECUs, which have an ECU test for specific revision usage). The cheaper original coils (A is actually the 2nd, B is the 3rd, C is the 4th) are usually still worth the price, since the price climbs faster than the relative lifespan for the newer versions of coils. Just keep in mind to change them every 20k or so.
OK now I have to know, just to know. What does the JDM ECU do differently? More aggressive timing based on higher octane? Is this the Spirit R? Just wondering if something can be transplanted or adapted to help somehow.
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Old Jul 8, 2015 | 08:57 AM
  #4953  
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There is nothing that the JDM ECU can do with a tune that the USDM or EUDM ECU can't. There are no tune advantages with one over another at all. The differences are in the other details. Like we have different communication protocols, we have different emissions checks, etc...
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Old Jul 8, 2015 | 09:35 AM
  #4954  
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
There is nothing that the JDM ECU can do with a tune that the USDM or EUDM ECU can't. There are no tune advantages with one over another at all. The differences are in the other details. Like we have different communication protocols, we have different emissions checks, etc...
That was what I was wondering. Like transplanting the ECU or tune and tweaking it for the USDM setup. (or adding those emission checks)

I believe the PCM uses an Atmel ATMEGA of some kind, but they put that gooey black **** on the board so you can't extract chips or reverse engineer it.
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Old Jul 8, 2015 | 09:40 AM
  #4955  
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To my knowledge (I could be wrong), you could in theory alter a USDM ECU to be electronically identical to the JDM ECU, just swapping in the software, and vise versa. There may be physical board differences, but I doubt it. I can't really see any possible advantage to trying to get a JDM ECU Working, and the number of people over the years that have gotten one thinking it would be "better" have dealt with nightmares trying to get everything working.
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Old Jul 8, 2015 | 01:09 PM
  #4956  
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Originally Posted by badinfluence
I believe the PCM uses an Atmel ATMEGA of some kind, but they put that gooey black **** on the board so you can't extract chips or reverse engineer it.
Nope, it's a custom processor made by Renesas. It's a 32 bit SOC with a few coprocessors to manage the outputs.
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Old Jul 8, 2015 | 01:31 PM
  #4957  
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Originally Posted by Legot
Nope, it's a custom processor made by Renesas. It's a 32 bit SOC with a few coprocessors to manage the outputs.
Series II or 1?

The Super8?

******* seriously? They just went with Renesas since it has Rene in the beginning.

Next up Renesis branded cola!
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Old Jul 8, 2015 | 02:39 PM
  #4958  
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Pretty sure they're both from the same manufacturer. Renesas is actually the biggest microcontroller producer in the world, and its located in Japan where all RX8s were built.
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Old Jul 8, 2015 | 04:52 PM
  #4959  
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Originally Posted by Legot
Pretty sure they're both from the same manufacturer. Renesas is actually the biggest microcontroller producer in the world, and its located in Japan where all RX8s were built.
Non sense, it is just how the Japanese say Renesis, similar to IMPOSSIBL!!!!
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Old Jul 8, 2015 | 10:47 PM
  #4960  
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Originally Posted by Chrishoky
Whats the best size snow tire for the standard 18" wheel. Im lowered on S-techs. I previously had 235-45's and they rubbed in the front. Should I go for something like 225-40?
Bueler...?
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Old Jul 8, 2015 | 10:58 PM
  #4961  
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Originally Posted by Chrishoky
Whats the best size snow tire for the standard 18" wheel. Im lowered on S-techs. I previously had 235-45's and they rubbed in the front. Should I go for something like 225-40?
Yes ...if that will give you the needed clearance where you're rubbing. We're talking snow tires. Width and to a lesser extent aspect ratio isn't critical. Tread design and compound is. If they only barely rubbed, you could try 225/50 and the speedometer would stay the same as the 235/45s.

Last edited by Signal 2; Jul 8, 2015 at 11:05 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 02:08 AM
  #4962  
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2004 6-speed Can I cap the nipple on the oil filler neck and the nipple it connects to on the intake and remove the line? What purpose dose this line serve?
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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 09:35 AM
  #4963  
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Originally Posted by NO_PSTNS
2004 6-speed Can I cap the nipple on the oil filler neck and the nipple it connects to on the intake and remove the line? What purpose dose this line serve?



You are talking about the non-colored hose form the oil stem to the intake right? I believe that is required for PCV and Oil Pressure regulation for the OMP and other items. I believe the VFAD is the only thing you CAN remove. If you are going to do something with it, put a better clamp on it, and add a catch can. I would not remove it. Very few things on the car are optional.
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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 05:16 PM
  #4964  
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Originally Posted by badinfluence


You are talking about the non-colored hose form the oil stem to the intake right? I believe that is required for PCV and Oil Pressure regulation for the OMP and other items. I believe the VFAD is the only thing you CAN remove. If you are going to do something with it, put a better clamp on it, and add a catch can. I would not remove it. Very few things on the car are optional.

Yes I am. The VFAD is already removed and capped. I want to cap that oil filler neck it's causing me problems and it seams useless, i ran a catch can it will fill up 750ml's in half an hour.
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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 07:34 PM
  #4965  
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If you are dumping that much oil, you have another failure somewhere else that you need to solve for. That is certainly not normal.
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Old Jul 10, 2015 | 01:06 AM
  #4966  
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
If you are dumping that much oil, you have another failure somewhere else that you need to solve for. That is certainly not normal.

Oil control ring. I don't have the ability to rebuild right now.
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Old Jul 10, 2015 | 08:12 AM
  #4967  
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Originally Posted by NO_PSTNS
Oil control ring. I don't have the ability to rebuild right now.
Seems like if you cap that, it would just build up oil somewhere till the vac lines overflowed and clogged the solenoids. Essentially it sucks oil out of the lines that isn't supposed to be in the lines. Oil will eat the hoses up in excess too.
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Old Jul 11, 2015 | 04:26 PM
  #4968  
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Has anyone found a deal on the Mazda Rx-8 dashboard? I just got off the phone with Mazda and they said I'd have to have a diagnostic check(meaning a dealership has to take a look at the dashboard cracking) Now...it doesn take an hour for them too look at a freaking dashboard. The dashboard is cracked due to sun damage, humidity and they say armor oil products. But I never sprayed anything like that on my dashboard. I am not paying $110 bucks for a technician to not look at the dashboard for 1hr. It takes 2 sec to see what the "issue" is. Shouldnt Mazda be required to replace this cause the airbag is in the same area. Also this is the first car I seen this with or heard of it occurring. Disappointing.
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Old Jul 12, 2015 | 06:44 AM
  #4969  
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I'm not saying this is the case with your car, but I have seen damage from objects/persons impacting the dash from inside the car. Either from a serious accident, or from someone simply not being very careful with an object heavy enough to crack the vinyl. I tend to agree that an hour labor seems a bit much, but that maybe why MAZDA requires the inspection. And if damage ends up being the premature result of UV baking, seems like to be fair they should waive the hour labor for inspection.
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Old Jul 12, 2015 | 08:02 AM
  #4970  
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You would think they COULD just look at it and not charge you, but an hour minimum is standard.
I almost never defend dealerships, but they are there to make money after all.
Imagine if they didn't charge everyone that had an obvious problem, and then they tell them what's wrong and give an estimate.
Then the customer takes their estimate and goes to an independent shop for a cheaper quote, it could add up quick.
They are using techs that would otherwise be working on paying jobs, and losing money.
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Old Jul 12, 2015 | 08:17 PM
  #4971  
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Originally Posted by badinfluence
Seems like if you cap that, it would just build up oil somewhere till the vac lines overflowed and clogged the solenoids. Essentially it sucks oil out of the lines that isn't supposed to be in the lines. Oil will eat the hoses up in excess too.
DO NOT cap the filler neck........ tried it Idled for about ~10 mins and then blew a MASSIVE oil load all over the engine bay. Apparently thats a no no...
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 04:32 PM
  #4972  
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Originally Posted by mazdafan1892
Has anyone found a deal on the Mazda Rx-8 dashboard? I just got off the phone with Mazda and they said I'd have to have a diagnostic check(meaning a dealership has to take a look at the dashboard cracking) Now...it doesn take an hour for them too look at a freaking dashboard. The dashboard is cracked due to sun damage, humidity and they say armor oil products. But I never sprayed anything like that on my dashboard. I am not paying $110 bucks for a technician to not look at the dashboard for 1hr. It takes 2 sec to see what the "issue" is. Shouldnt Mazda be required to replace this cause the airbag is in the same area. Also this is the first car I seen this with or heard of it occurring. Disappointing.
Definitely not a new problem. On the Series I they put a TSB about it. I think ASH8 had a thread about the part numbers. On the series II it happens too.

Check the crack and see if it is a crack or the exposing of the airbag. Mine turned out to be the seam of the material that disintegrates when the airbag deploys and it looks like a crack, but is a seem. Still pisses me off the same! ******* hate airbags, ill take a 5 point and a cage over an airbag anyday.
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 04:42 PM
  #4973  
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Originally Posted by badinfluence
Definitely not a new problem. On the Series I they put a TSB about it. I think ASH8 had a thread about the part numbers. On the series II it happens too.

Check the crack and see if it is a crack or the exposing of the airbag. Mine turned out to be the seam of the material that disintegrates when the airbag deploys and it looks like a crack, but is a seem. Still pisses me off the same! ******* hate airbags, ill take a 5 point and a cage over an airbag anyday.

If the crack is bad enough to where it interferes with the airbag, does Mazda cover it? It becomes a safety issue then right?

Also as another question. The trunk has anti-freeze which spilled in it. Can I spray it with the hose, soap and water?

Last edited by mazdafan1892; Jul 13, 2015 at 04:45 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 04:52 PM
  #4974  
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I've not seen a single report of Mazda covering any of the dash cracks in the few years that the dash cracks have been reported.
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 08:35 PM
  #4975  
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It's enough trouble trying to get a dealership to do any warranty work.Good luck on the dask issue.Please share the result with us.
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