I've seen estimates of the oil's total engine cooling load being between 15% and 20%. Pretty significant. If you look at the pictures from RIWWP again, you'll also see the two larger 'nozzles' that come off the eccentric lobes. Those don't lubricate a bearing, they spray oil onto the underside of the face of the rotors. Pistons are also cooled in this way, but due to the shape of the rotor, there's a much larger surface area than a piston, and there are more combustion events per rotation of the shaft, so the cooling load on the oil on a rotary is particularly high. That makes those oil coolers really important. And why an oil's toleration to high heat environments is important...which hints at another topic that's probably not appropriate here.

 

Yup. High Heat, High Stress, High Sheer. I wonder what oils are best suited to that once you eliminate the 'burning' from consideration by burning 2-stroke

 

^Good thing you asked that dumb question here.

 

Whale oil.
It's organic.

 

I heard that canola oil has fewer calories.

 

In case it wasn't apparent, the e-shaft center has an oil passage....much of it is hollow.
And one more point since I'm assuming you're a new owner...because there is always some oil stranded inside the rotors and cooler(s), when you drain oil for a change, you never get it all. Don't be surprised if the oil looks a little dirty right after. It's just one of the reasons why I suggest change intervals be kept a little closer than what you're used to in a piston engine.

 

Just had this crazy idea... What if, I just replace the apex seals? Like not the complete rebuild but just the seals. It is what goes bad and is it necessary to replace everything else? Or everything else just gets replaced for a simple reason that you already have your engine apart? Can apex seals just be replaced and everything else left the way it was before?

 

Who told you it's usually just the apex seals that go bad? There are also side seals and corner seals....and they all have their associated springs. Oil control rings and traditional journal bearings. Not to mention the coolant seals. Other wear items are housings and side plates or irons

 

lol no one told me, I just had this crazy idea of just changing the seals. The engine is running but I do have low compression so thought of just changing the seals. Thats why I put it up in a dumb question thread. Cause it's pretty dumb haha

 

Like can I just change the seals and see what happens or is it absolutely necessary to change everything else....

 

In my opinion changing hard seals without changing springs isn't smart. And you want to check spec on all of the other wear internals mentioned. Depending on mileage many may be reusable but you won't know that until it's apart.

 

yea, thats true. Just had a crazy idea lol

 

It's not really a crazy idea. Many owners who tractk their cars regularly also regularly rebuild the engines only replacing those parts that are not in spec. Many times hard seals even get reused. But on those cars accessories such as power steering air-conditioning have been removed and those guys can have an engine out in an hour or two. And since they know what they're doing they don't have to worry about labor costs as most typical owners do. But for the average guy many times if the part is close or showing some wear it makes more sense just to go ahead and replace it. Some years ago I had a coolant seal failure on my car. Otherwise the engine ran well and had a decent compression. I could've gotten by with replacing the hard seal springs and coolant seals. But it ended up being a pretty comprehensive rebuild with new housings and other new parts just because I didn't want to do it again anytime soon and parts weren't getting any cheaper.

 

Have 2 questions. Replacing my radiator. No instructions I've found explains what these are in the pictures and what they do. I could not remove my radiator without removing these. When I did, a massive pressure released and expelled what I assume was a clear gas because it smelled like a chemical but nothing actually came out even though the pressure was releasing for about 20 seconds.

What came out with the pressure release, and do I need to refill it with something? Was it anti freeze? Are there special instructions to refilling what came out?

http://s11.postimg.org/fwxqpmhir/IMG..._162611545.jpg

http://s28.postimg.org/67w51cgsd/IMG..._162558662.jpg

Edit: I guess another question I have is that whole assembly in front of the Radiator. Is it needed? I always see modified cars without that stuff. Is that whole assembly capable of being removed?

 

That is your condensor and the chemical is R134A.

You need that for your AC to work. Now you'll need to have the system vacuum tested and refilled.

Also that's illegal...expelling that into the atmosphere

Travis

 

The whole thing is just dead weight now, you might as well take off the compressor and it's brackets too, you don't need all that front end metal weighing your car down....

 

^ I disagree.

Depending upon climate AC is ALWAYS nice.

Travis

 

Really? There was no way of figuring out what an AC condenser is?

 

If you don't know what it is called, it makes it harder to find.

 

Hey my name is edwin figueroa and I just bought myself a mazda rx8 2004 with 110000 miles on odo meter but the dealer I got it from did a free engine swap for me due to a few problems lol. Just wanted to know if someone knowledgable with these cars can help me out with some of the basics .

 

Edwin8014 read this thread and then address these maintenance items. Look over any maintenance records to see what was done, and what you now need to check at your mileage.

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

 

I have a question I've previously investigated via search but found the myriad of models a bit tricky to get my head around then whenver I think I've found the right kit I cannot figure out where to source it from. I'm in the UK btw.

I have a 2006 right hand drive manual rx8 with automatic cimate control (i.e. this one http://images.thetruthaboutcars.com/...en-550x412.jpg NOT this one http://i00.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/971/9...980971_113.jpg the whole unit looks like thishttp://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/bnUAAOSwAQFTxjyc/$_35.JPG )

I'm looking at swaping it out for a 1 or 2 dim android device (like the metra kit https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=rx...Pq_UrmdtHhU%3D )

However:

1. I wish to retain stearing wheel volume control. I've seen some talk this may need an additional part but cannot find discussion of it for the kit compatable with auto climate control...and am strugling to find the auto climate control kit in the first place.
2. I absolutely need to maintain my temperature control (some solutions might not work with auto?)
3. Even when I think I've found the right thing sourcing it proves a nightmare.

Any and all help the community can provide to get me past this stumbling block much appreciated!

 

Poor advice in my opinion. Although he made a mistake it has done no permanent damage and can be fixed relatively easily by any decent technician. Not doing so reduce the refinement, convenience and resale value of his car significantly. And that reduction of weight is meaningless on a streeted car.

 

I've posted a couple questions previously and I'd like to re-address them with a new pulley concern:

Previously, I had experienced a power loss and throttle response issue after installing an AEM intake. Everything was confirmed a good install with videos posted. However, someone said I had clicking in my engine and it was the SSV needing to be cleaned. Cleaned it, clicking is still there, and my power loss and throttle response isn't any better.

Another issue was when I cleaned the SSV, I had to remove the pulley to get to everything. When I put the pulley back, I noticed a very slight wobble in the pulley and it wasn't there before. How do I fix this? I removed and retightened, but wobble is still there. No noise coming from pulley or belt. I didn't bang it in any way that would cause something to bend.

lastly, just installed a new radiator. So far no leaks or issues upon start up and circulating the fluids. Waiting for it to cool down before I put my last bit of distilled water in. Then taking for a test drive. Any maintenance needing to be done after the first drive?

 

For the record, you do not need to disconnect anything from the AC condenser to replace the radiator. You just need to move it out of the way. Since I was working solo, I used some electrical cord to wire it toward the front of the car, and some more cord to wire the fan shroud toward the back of the car. With those out of the way, I could slip the old radiator out and the new one in without removing either.

{edit}

BTW, did you seal the radiator with foam after installing it? See this thread for more information:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-af...2/#post4697876

.