You're probably right, but it's a safeguard I'm content to leave in place unless I have a damn good reason to remove it.

 

Yes distilled water only with an in-line filter between the pump and nozzle. For my purposes boost activated at ~ 1.5 psi. One correction to my earlier post...it's a M3 nozzle. Not M5.
I can also run an alcohol mix but alcohol is more effective at cooling the intake air (lower IATs). But to be most effective nozzle placement should be farther upstream in the intake tract. Water is best at absorbing heat from the combustion event during phase change from liquid and carrying it out with the exhaust. So placement and time of contact with intake air isn't as critical.

 

Thanks for the great info, Signal. what brand are you using, or did you build the kit yourself

 

Waste of water/power bringing it on any earlier .

 

Sounds like I need access to a dyno to set this up properly. What size nozzle are you using, Brett?

 

It's 300-350cc/min

 

Well I am right. Hopefully you never have a reason

 

Under most circumstances, not if you're running only water...and a properly sized nozzle. There is a fairly simple formula I used from rx7ub to determine the size based on estimated power and some other factors. There are also some good books available out there that are easy enough reads...even for an old dumb Bohemian like me.

 

Signal, Brett, thank you. Very helpful information

 

In my particular case, components were sourced from couple vendors. IIRC, pump, nozzle, lines, check-valve, pressure switch and filter were from Coolingmist. But I liked the tap and a float switch that came from Devil's Own. I also have red and green LEDs that came from the local Radio Shack. Red lights up from the float switch when the tank is getting low. Green lights up when the pump activates. Both LED's are small and mounted in an single 'A' Pillar pod for my temp gauge.
Some other vendors that come to mind are AquaMist, and Snow Performance, Some guys swear by certain nozzles etc. I don't know, mine has been running flawlessly for 6 or 7 years. Again, it's pretty simple. But it does what I want it to, and simple is positively correlated to reliable.

 

I have a noobish question for anyone who would care to answer..

So my '09 came with 2 electronic key fobs. Recently, probably within the last 1-2 months my primary key has been losing signal. Just this week it got to the point where I'd have to be literally a few feet away from the car and mash the button multiple times to get the car to unlock. Trunk was the hardest.

So I grabbed my spare key and it has the same issue. Both keys have the red blip light up whenever I press a button on them but they both seem low battery.

This leads me to a few noob questions:

1. What is the best way of getting the batteries in the key fobs replaced? Bring to mazda dealer or is there a way to do it on the cheap? What would it cost to bring to dealer?

2. Is it possible that maybe the sensor within the car itself is going bad? Not really sure how these components work.

Any help is appreciated

 

1. Remove the emergency key from the key card.
2. Open the rubber battery door. On the left side (opposite side of emergency key) there is a thin piece of rubber that wraps around the bottom side profile corner. On the long side there is a small opening about 3/4″ from the bottom. In this opening, the rubber piece can be pried away from the key card. Something with a small tip should be used, such as a paperclip end to lift the rubber away. (Be careful not to damage the key card)
3. Once the battery door is open, shake or tap the key card gently to loose the battery. It will fall out.
4. Replace with a new battery by sliding it positive (+) side up into the card. Battery is a 3V CR2025(double check with the old battery).
5. Close the rubber battery door and push the side portion back into the card. Voila!

 

Anyone have an idea of what the electrical current draw of the Series II with the Advanced Keyless is, when the key is near the car with nothing else on? (<30 minutes) The manual says like 40ma after 30 minutes, but it doesn't say what it is before as far as I can tell.

 

Perfect, thanks a lot!

 

Same thing happened on my Miata. You can buy a "stripped screw extractor" online or at the hardware store. Less than $20. You can then order a replacement screw from your Mazda parts department.

 

Can you put a s2 rx8 speedometer , steering wheel, and factory radio work in the s1 rx8 ?

 

I've spent quite some time researching ignition coil failures and symptoms, so I'm pretty sure mine are on the way out. 05 6MT with 57k miles, and as far as I know they've never been replaced, and I'm seeing (or rather, FEELING) a few of the symptoms described from bad coils.
My question is: are the NAPA Echlin coils good enough for me to install and use to see if that truly is my problem? I have a vacation I need to pay for in about a month, and I don't want to throw $640 at the BHR kit if I don't 100% know if that's my problem.
I assume coils are just plug-n-play? Or do I need a bracket to go along with the purchase of new coils?

Thank you in advance for the answer! I appreciate it.

 

I don't know about the NAPA coils. If those coils have 57k miles on them, they're likely the problem, and if not, they'll likely be a problem soon. Surely the spark plugs have been changed at least. I just changed mine at about 33k and they looked pretty bad. If you're really looking to save dollars, you could try just changing the plugs and wires for now, but if the car still has a catalytic converter, you're rolling the dice with it.

I think any replacement coils you buy at an auto parts store will bolt up to the existing bracket, but the BHR coils will most likely come with its own bracket like my RaceRoots coils did.

 

If I remember right, my plugs and wires were replaced at about 42k or 45k, but not the coils. That's why I'm thinking it's just the coils, but my plugs and wires are getting there as well.
Mine still has the cat too, so I don't want to wait too long. Eventually I'll be putting in the BHR kit, but with my vacation I don't want to short myself on cash. Getting cheaper coils is a bandaid for right now to keep me going until I buy the BHR kit after I get back, but yet I want to make sure the coils I'm buying are decent enough quality to last until then.
I figured I wouldn't need a bracket, but I wanted to make sure

 

Those Napa coils should be fine. They are probably Rev A or B coils, one of which is probably what you have now. Likely good for at least 20K miles.

BTW, you can buy OEM plugs for under $60 shipped if you shop around and use coupon codes.

 

I am sure I am going to get smashed for this, but I just had to do the same thing. Heat kills coils, they have a hard life in our engine bay. I have heard people argue that RaceRoots isn't plug and play, but I took a gamble and it paid off. I also was able to move the coils away from the devil's dick and into a cooler place hoping that it will pay off.

You can also test your coils and only replace what is broken. If they all test good then maybe just a new set of plugs and a bit of seafoam before you change them.

 

You can do anything with enough knowledge, but more than likely this isn't a simple question. Short answer is that the Series II is all CAN communication and the Series I is all SPI communication. You would basically need anything on the CANBUS which is damn near everything.

Why might I ask? There may be a better solution than what you are trying to do.

 

I'm glad to hear that. I'd hate to throw crappy parts in my car, especially if it may tell me if the coils were my issue.


Does it matter whether they're rev. A or B? Or will either one work just fine? I thought I read that rev. B was for the S2 8's

 

All revisions of coils fit all USDM spec RX-8s without any modifications or ECU problems. (The exceptions you may hear about are JDM spec RX-8s, or at least with their ECUs, which have an ECU test for specific revision usage). The cheaper original coils (A is actually the 2nd, B is the 3rd, C is the 4th) are usually still worth the price, since the price climbs faster than the relative lifespan for the newer versions of coils. Just keep in mind to change them every 20k or so.

 

Whats the best size snow tire for the standard 18" wheel. Im lowered on S-techs. I previously had 235-45's and they rubbed in the front. Should I go for something like 225-40?