Thanks! I'm in school for automotive currently. I know enough to get me by, but I thought I'd be safe and seek an opinion from people with more experience. I'll see if I can't get it done before class tomorrow.

 

Does the Mazda 6 fan motor fit the RX-8? I saw a fan assembly in a junk yard and the motors (and the blades!) looked remarkably similar. I checked the part numbers and apart from the first 3 digits, the rest are same!

Anyone tried swapping the motors from anther car?

 

Does the REVi intake work well in the rain? I've read a couple posts now claiming their filter was soaked after a rainy drive. But others say it is just as usable in rain as the stock system.


Also, does the REVi intake duct actually benefit the vehicle? I can't image there being any benefit to the ducting unless you were on a track traveling above 50 mph. Even then, I can't find any definitive evidence on how much it helps. And wouldn't it create more of a problem in rainy weather?


Have AEM right now, and thinking about switching to REVi for drivability reasons. And the fact I am not happy with my throttle response with the AEM install.

 

Team Tora, unfortunately I can't offer you any input on the REVi. But what do you mean by "drivability problems"? That could have many different causes. The AEM is a pretty robust intake if assembled correctly. Give us details about your car like miles, use, mods, symptoms, etc.

If your "drivability problems" are caused by the AEM, that's not normal, take it apart and check the screens, for leaks, for tears in the flexible joint near the front, etc. The screens apparently can eventually dislodge if not assembled correctly and screw up the airflow. Last month I did a weekend at the track with the stock airbox, changed to the AEM, and then went back to the track for another weekend and put 350 on-track miles on it. Performance felt exactly the same, except intake temps were higher until I got moving (expected). I don't have any driveability problems at all. Idle is rock-solid too even with a tired, low-compression engine. If the AEM is fine, then you probably have something else broken.

 

Drivability refers to it not being able to be used in the rain and the throttle response. My throttle response is much duller and it takes about 1/2 a second for the revs to initiate after pressing on the gas. I also notice that if I accelerate suddenly, like moving onto a freeway or something and just floor it, acceleration will occasionally be boggy. Like something is clogging the intake.


I've checked it out and spoke to AEM about it. Confirmed installed correctly and the screens are good.


Only mods are the intake and BHR Coils. I was hoping the REVi intake would help me with driving in the rain and solve my throttle response issue. Only reason I am complaining about my throttle response is because the solo events I attend require a standing start and it has hurt my acceleration when the timer starts. Otherwise, at high rpm, there is no change in performance from the stock intake.


2006
56,000 miles
Mainly track use and occasional weekend driver


No other symptoms that I know of.

 

Have used the AEM intake for 60,000 miles so far on my 2008 40th. Anniversary Editiion RX8. It has worked flawlessly with no driveability problems. It was actually a Mazdaspeed CAI (same as an AEM) and installed by my Mazda dealer years ago.

 

I recently learned that Auto repair locations have a 29-Point General Inspection. Where they check everything. But...I am really nervous to "trust" these people with my Rx-8. All the Google reviews are horrible. I have my own mechanic but he doesn't have all that equipment. I was thinking of actually demanding to watch them as they do all of the work. as you guys mentioned prior. I dont know how long something like that would take but after reading all the reviews I am honestly, skeptical IF they would check everything.

 

Has anyone successfully changed the order of the front headlights? If not how expensive would it be to change the lower front headlights to be more white like the ones on top vs the yellow beaming headlights. I forget what they are called? Hallogen? the newer one cars use with the white lights? My rx-8 only has the top front ones in that color but they still bake the plastic.

 

Interesting. Plausible, given the length and size of the AEM tubing, but I haven't noticed it. I wonder if anybody has done a "rev test" with the stock and then with the AEM intakes. Side-by-side video would be best. Maybe after the season is over I'll give it a try. Would take an hour or two. What did AEM have to say?

 

Hey so im in need of allot of help. I bought my 04 rx8 automatic back in may on ebay for around 1600. When i bought it i got it to start but wouldnt idle. I decided to rebuild did all my research and completed the rebuild. Now here is the problem. It will crank but not turn over. Has brand new ignition trio, plugs, wires and coils. It is getting strong compression from what i see from poor mans test and it is getting spark( verified this by taking out plugs individually and cranking and also i took the leading plugs out and cranked and i could see the the combustion. Crank sensor is good and clean. Throttle body and MAF are clean. No vacuum leaks, and fuel injector connectors are in correct places. Also battery is less than a week old. The only thing i can think of now is starter. Im not sure if its strong enough to get the engine going. Does anybody know if the starter can cause engine to not start even if getting all ingredients for combustion?

 

Just got back from Autozone. So again my problem with my 05 rx-8 has been cranking and having a hard start. For a while now. I always thought it was the starter. I recently had the fuel pump replaced. Meanwhile I think..the old fuel pump was ok. But..it seems "to me" the fuel injectors might need to be replaced or cleaned. Not sure if they could be tested. But I just had the starter and alternator tested. Those are good. The battery was recently changed new. Had the solenoids replaced a few months ago. Autozone said they felt it sounds like the car's engine isnt getting enough fuel. Hence the crank. So after a new fuel pump I am thinking its the fuel injectors. Which I hope and pray arent much money to change/fix. Is that a fair assessment? Oh and they said it would be a good idea to have the new pump tested. I hope my mechanic didnt throw out the old one, even though it looked dirty on top it worked ok and was fairly clean. We'll see, this had to happen labor day weekend lol.

Edit: Also when I run my a/c for at least 15 mins+ the car will crank even more. Does running the a/c suck alot of gas? If the injectors arent running optimally, would that make sense? I think its a reach. I claim to know nothing. Just my new hobbie and I like to learn about my car. Thanks everyone.

 

How many miles on plugs, coils and wires? Are they connected properly?

 

They asked me for a video, and I sent them one. They said I had an issue with my SSV and asked me to fix it and get back to them. I cleaned it and still have exact same issue. They asked me to take pictures inside the tube to see the screens and I did. They said everything was confirmed working and said I can just send it back for a refund. But that is another $50 in shipping and I'm just bummed over all.

 

Approaching 65K, Plugs, coils and wires I believe are good. I will have that checked too but I believe I had those replaced not too long ago. Again Autozone said it sounded like the engine isnt getting enough fuel. I was just trying to listen to the fuel injectors with a long screw driver, going to find a longer one. See if it sounds like its firing up and down really fast. Otherwise it could be them. I have a feeling one of them are bad.

Found this pic online.

 

Is the series 2 RX-8 interior compatible with a series 1? Meaning seats and door panels.

 

Ok, I read RIWWP's response about coils which he reiterated on the rx8help site here: RX-8 Help

I'm on a very tight budget right now and wanted to replace my coils, so I was looking into the BWD/Intermotor option. Also, although I understand why the BHR ignition upgrade makes sense, even if I had the $580 for the kit and the plugs, I never compression tested my car, I may have a crappy cat (I replaced the O2 sensor in the cat last summer and then got the CEL code for that sensor one time this past spring...) and so like I said, even if I had the money, I'm not sure that until I got the compression test, the BHR kit would be money well spent that could have been used elsewhere. So I am looking for coils.
Autozone doesn't sell the BWD/Intermotor kind... they only sell Duralast? Are they the same, just stamped with a different name?

Or what about these? I know you said be leery of ebay. .

My dumbest question is... how do I know who/what makes the OEM? Those ones on Amazon have several positive customer reviews, the vendor only has 44 reviews, but they are mostly positive... I know, caveat emptor, but still, how can I tell if these are garbage or legitimate (albeit the 20k mile jobs)?

 

If I am running water injection (not methanol, just H20) for better knock resistance (67 mm turbo installed), shouldnt I use a MAP based tune, not a MAF? Assuming the water is injected post MAF, arent you loosing benefit? I am thinking maybe Adaptronic, sometime on down the line.

Thanks!

 

Why would you think there is any difference either way ?

 

I just made a thread. why isnt it under New Posts?

 

I've noticed that too . I think the fact that you made it means that it isn't a 'new post' to you .... just everyone else . I think that must be how it works.

 

Once you "read" or "start" a post/thread, it's no longer new to you. Hence, it doesn't show in new posts to you

 

It's my understanding that the water injection gives you a cooler, denser mass of air, because the tiny water droplets absorb heat by evaporating. If you do it after the MAF, doesn't that skew the reading?

 

No it doesn't . The air has already gone passed the maf . It doesn't magically flow more air just because it's denser in one part of the system.
Unless you inject pre turbo ..... but that's another story , and maf tune is still fine then too.

 

Actually just introducing water to the intake track doesn't do a lot for IATs. It's the evaporative effect of methanol that works best at that. For water alone to drop IAT's noticeably it would have to be really fine droplets (surface area) with a lot of time for contact. Water does it's thing in the combustion chamber. When it phase-changes from liquid (droplets) to gas (steam) it absorbs ALOT of heat which is then carried out with the exhaust. It's also great at reducing carbon and lowering knock values.

 

That makes a lot of sense. Thanks!