Got another question lol.

My car where I put the fuel in. The fuel tank area. Is there a specific name for the space inside, after opening the door to access the fuel tank. Not inside the fuel tank but what is that area called. Its super dirty and I want to clean it. Also the back plate of the fuel tank door is filthy. But what is that area called after one opens the door? Any think special to clean it besides soap, water and microfiber cloth? I was going to check out youtube vids but all I get is people cleaning the fuel tank itself which I am not looking for.
Edit Nevermind

 

question about reading cel codes,

just got a scanner and I scanned code p0442 EVAP system leak detected (small leak)

did some searching and figured it was the gas cap since I never click it more than once. So I tightened it

Whats the best way to know if its fixed, reset the code and see if it comes back on? or wait and see if it goes off?

 

Either would work, the former should be faster and less annoying.

 

"Filler door"? "Gas filler lid"? Call it what you like.
If you don't want to spend $400 to $800 on a steam cleaner, there's absolutely nothing wrong with opening the door and somewhat careful use of a pressure washer at a car wash. If it's REALLY dirty, maybe some dish soap or mild degreaser and a brush first. Obviously just make sure the cap is tight. They're not sealed against water or weather anyway...that's why they get dirty in the first place.

 

thank you, any idea how long before it comes back on if the leaks still there?

 

Nope! If it never comes back you're golden. If it comes back then that wasn't the problem.

 

Mazda Rx8 has power steering but its electrical? I feel like making a turn with 1 hand is super difficult and there is def a rubbing sound sometimes when turning.. I dont know if its me or its the car.

 

Soo today I turned on the car and waited for it to warm up, just had the solenoids fixed by Mazda. Anyways...I turned the wheel to the left with one hand and then to the right with one hand. Not bad. Although when driving many times in the past I would hear a rubbing sometimes when turning or I could literally not make a turn with one hand. The car would feel like it would stall unless I didnt give it some gas. Not a smooth one handed turn. ??? Also after warming up the car when reversing(mostly) I would hear this sound like scraping. After the car is warm I and would stop some place for some time and restart the car and it would disappear. Not sure what the heck that is. Oh and I looked at the belts for the power steering under the hood. They seem to be aligned properly. Nothing is off track there. I heard using dielectric grease on the electric plugs makes a difference??? Also gonna ask my mechanic to check the fuse boxes next time I get an oil change.

One more thing I wish there was a video of someone detailing the engine bay. Can't find one and mine is really dirty.

 

so im getting ready to do a rebuild on my 8...is there anything you have to do as far as timing from what ive gathered it looks like everything goes back on one way and the eshaft sensor does the rest....am i right or wrong if wrong please inform me on how timing works on and rx8... and how to set it after rebuild.

 

So, I noticed that my S-II doesn't auto-lock the doors when I start driving, or open them I turn off the ignition. Is this normal? Can't find anything in the manual regarding this.

 

Idk about S2s, but my '04 doesn't.

 

The RX-8 never had auto lock.

 

Just reset the e-shaft sensor profile and it will all work correctly ... assuming you built the engine correctly and you haven't swapped fuel injector harness connectors (VERY common)

 

I dont see how bros online can spray their engine bay with a hose. My dealership told me some of the wires were corroding or something and had to change them. What if water got to them before? Any advise?

 

its okay to top off oil with 5w-30 if it was last changed with (and has always used) 5w-20? figured this summers [in philly] already been crazy hot so I should move to a thicker oil.

 

Yeah, that's fine. I've topped of my 20w50 with 5w30. All the oils are compatible.

 

you won't have any issues changing oil weights. Just remember to completely drain the old stuff before putting in the new stuff.

 

Soo might be a really dumb question or a really good question... i understand that a rotary engine uses oil to lubricate the apex seals... but what else does it do... is all 7 qts just for that or does it keep everything else cool somehow (im new to this probably over thinking) but in piston engines doesnt oil keep all the engine cooler and lubricated everything outside the combustion chamber... so what does the oil in a rotary cool and lubricate besides the seals because with the lack of parts compared to a piston engine it seems kind of useless ( probably isnt but im waiting for someone to answer the dumb question so i can stop over thinking)
Thanks guys

 

Like a piston engine...the oil will lubricate the bearings on the shaft...and cool the dome of the piston...or the rotors....that is pretty much the same in both engines

The way the rotors are oil cooled makes the oil a much larger part of the cooling cycle than a piston engine...that is why the oil coolers are quite big compared to what you will see on a boinger

 

So oil cools the bearings in the eshaft also? And oil and coolant cools the rotor housing? Sorry still not fully grasping the whole rotary idea this is my only hang up on the whole thing haha that seems alot more legitimate then not knowing what the oil does at all besides lube the seals cause at that point why not just use lubricated gas and get rid of the oil all together someone should test it

 

There is no difference in the way the shafts are lubricated in rotary versus piston engines

 

Yeah but how does the oil even get to the shaft its in the middle of the engine... piston ones are on the bottom arent they? (Usually unless boxers dont make sense either) i get the main concept of how it all works but the oil cooling and the purpouse beyond that idk kinda hard to think about for some reason (to me atleast) so oil gets the shaft and bearings and apex seals and thats it? The two giant oil coolers are for 3 things why does the rx8 need them if pistons dont.

 

When you are first starting the engine in the morning, 5w20 and 5w30 have the same 5w weight. No change there.

When the oil is at 180F, the 30 is thicker than the 20. Why do I mention this? Because The ambient temperature is NOT 180F. But it's also not 180F in the winter either. But your oil will still be 180F in the winter once it gets up to temp.

So what is the difference in summer 5w30 vs winter 5w30? Or summer 5w20 vs winter 5w20?

A: Nothing.

Just something to think about.

 

To address a few of your points...

The e-shaft lubrication is CRITICAL to the health of the engine. No oil to the e-shaft = a busted e-shaft bearing very very very quickly.
You can see the e-shaft oil ports here, where oil is supplied to the surface of the rotational pieces:


So getting rid of the oil system will destroy the engine ... probably within seconds.

The oil environment for the e-shaft is also incredibly intense. High heat, high stress, high sheer. It's why high grade synthetics and diesel oils (only if you don't have a cat installed) do very well in used oil analysis tests for this engine.

The oil is also used to lubricate and cool the side seals, which is what the OMP system is for. However, injecting 4-stroke oil, that is probably dirty and definitely isn't designed to be burnt, it's subpar. If you install a SOHN (series 1 RX-8s only), then you can leave the 4-stroke for lubricating the e-shaft and use a 2-stroke for the seals.


As far as why the oil cooers.... Well, we move a LOT of oil through the engine. Just like coolant, this oil is absorbing a LOT of engine heat. That heat isn't going to get shed from the cooling system, so we need oil coolers to handle that. And our oil coolers are actually incredibly effective. Remove them... and you will need like 500 mile oil change intervals as the oil system is just caked and coked and beaten to death from super high heat. Not to mention the coolant system is already almost not able to handle it's own heat, so you would be asking the coolant system to handle almost double the heat load. A recipe for disaster.

By comparison, a piston engine oil system without oil coolers typically spends less time soaking heat, and from an engine that doesn't generate as much heat in the first place, and the engine has much higher danger thresholds. You might be surprised at how many piston engined cars have oil coolers though. Virtually all sports cars, all trucks rigged for towing, many non-sports cars. The implementation may be smaller or more subtle ... but it's there.

 

Seeing the picture and that explaination helped! much better understanding thank you