You will have to look at the scaling. If I am at idle just holding at 6K I only read about 80g/s which I believe is less than 3V

 

Cool, thanks RIWWP, Carbon8. At least I don't have to waste any more time searchin like I have been now!

 

I'm sure this question has been asked a million times but if I can please get a few honest options about it...I have a 6 speed 8 with NO mods. I'm considering getting a borla cat back exhaust. For the most part of my research power gains are around 8 to 10 hp gain. I found one for $760 new. Am I wasting time and money? Are there better ways for power gain that aren't ridiculously expensive? (Aka turbo) lol thanks for the help!

 

Do you want the exhaust only for power gains? There really is no 'cheap' way to add power to this car besides Forced Induction. You could consider an intake (such as Revi w/ air duct, or MS/AEM), but even those won't see noticeable gains.

I personally have both exhaust and intake, and although I believe there is a bit of a gain, I'm not sure if there is or if it's just the fact that the car is louder and I believe it is going faster/better acceleration.

I would look into the Cobb Accessport w/ MM Tune; although the tune can take quite some time to get, it is known to help the car simply run better overall (therefore you may notice better power, but an overall improvement in running)

 

Whoever told you this lied to you. No catback exhaust will give you this sort of power gain. The cheapest power gain you can add is a midpipe which may give you 5 HP, but it will also give you a CEL. As mentioned above a tune is also a good "mod" but its hardly cheap. A MM tune runs in the $600 range.

 

I searched but didn't find a clear answer...can a code 2259 cause the car to go super slow? When I first got the code it didnt seem to affect performance...now the car accelerates super slow, doesn't run rough but just accelerates very slow with no throttle response...please somebody chime in this is my dd...04 at rx8

 

Currently have the BHR mid-pipe and Borla cat-back combo. Those who currently have a header installed, do you think installing one on my current combination of mods will add any sort of noticeable rasp? Been considering a header for a while now just to complete the setup.

Also, the rattling under my car still exists; it only happens when the car is completely warmed up. It used to happen around 2000 - 3500 RPM every shift; now it happens under load when accelerating from a stop in first gear as well and seems to get a lot worse while turning fast in second gear. The noise doesn't happen all the time by the way, just a stop or turn here and there.

This video has the most accurate sound I could find:


I inspected the header area under the car and noticed a bit of corrosion on the header itself as well as the heat shield. I gave it a couple of knocks which failed to produce any rattling noises.

Note: I am not running a cat, so the heat shields on it aren't the issue.

Are there any other common sources of rattling I should look for? I still firmly believe a heat shield is the source of the issue and not my transmission.

 

You'd probably do better going after weight reduction to increase performance, rather than trying to squeeze more hp out of the engine.

I went with the raceroots single exit exhaust and gutted cat. The cat back weighs almost nothing compared to the factory cat back, and my cat self destructed. Did I see a performance increase? Not really, but it shoots some wicked flames now...

 

Honestly, for the money that you would spend, you would see a FAR better gain in "performance" by keeping the OEM exhaust, grabbing a used BHR midpipe (if you can find one, or a RR catted midpipe if you need emissions) and a BHR flywheel.

Those two mods alone will make the car feel peppy.

 

Thanks a lot guys! As always you've all been very helpful. I might look into getting it tuned. I'm 20 and am not swimming in money but I'm debating throwing some to my baby lol. Could I get it tuned at a mechanic or would I have to go to a Mazda dealer to have it done? And what exactly do they do when they tune the engine? Just kind of brush off the dust on the computer since its 8 years old?

 

Use the search function here. A po2259 is "Air solenoid valve control circuit low". Haven't herd of it slowing any thing down. The air pump is for startup only and doesn't effect performance. I have a po2259 cel, I have been driving all summer ok. I plan on trying an experiment. I am going to remove the fuse and have the code erased and my bet is it doesn't come back. If it does I will replace the solenoid at the rear of the engine. Do some research and you will find your answers here. Don't just do what I do, know for your self. research is key. It is all here at rx8 club.

 

Umm no. You need to do some research on tuning. You would not bring your car to mazda for a tune. The most popular choice is the Cobb accessport, and there are a few people on the forum who can provide maps for it. Also, do not bring your car to anyone who says they can tune cars. It needs to be someone who has tuned an RX8 before, not even the RX7 guys all understand our cars.

 

Is there a way to tell if the engine is an original or a re-man?

And an early re-man to a more recent re-man?

 

Email Mazda USA with your VIN and ask them.

 

Call a local Mazda dealer with your Vin in hand. They should be able to tell you if your car has had a reman installed and when it was installed.

 

What is an OMP and what is its function

 

Oil metering pump .. It injects oil into your engine to keep the seals lubricated. Basic stuff.

 

google it. did it for my car.

 

To add on to what I already has said (maybe it's been mentioned since), but weight reduction is always good - Specifically unsprung weight; e.g. lightweight wheels will not gain you any power, but will free up your already available power as well as assist in increasing handling performance

 

So today i went for a drive in my 2004 6spd rx8 with 72k miles on it. Everything was fine, i was low on gas so i headed to the pump, filled up (premium of coarse), start the car and it almost dies on me, rpms dropping to 0 then back up to 750, then to 1200, i tried driving and had misfires, terrible loss in power, and the traction control(wet road sign) was on, plus the DSC light was flashing. I barely got home. When i was almost home i got a weird smell, parked the car at my uncles house , looked under the car and the place where the O2 sensor is on the cat was glowing red! The drive from the gas station to my uncles is about 7 minutes. I check my oil level often its fine. Before the car was vibrating more then its supposed to so i was guessing its the ignition coils, wires or plugs. Today got me worried anything i should try? I also got a P0336 engine light so im guessing i should clean the sensor? Any thoughts? Would really appreciate good tips.

 

Check your cat converter to see if its blocked. If it is you will need to replace it or just gut it. Then check your coils leads and plugs. Prob is time to replace them anyway

 

Ill check the cat, what specifically should I check for? And the Coils, wires and plugs should i just visually inspect them(check for burn marks on coils)?
Thanks for the reply.

 

To see if it's all clogged up. You will be able to tell.

You need to test the coils with a coil tester. You can buy them at a automotive store.

You should read the stickies in this forum. It will answer most of your questions

 

I know most of the stickies by heart
Probably will buy that tester hoping its cheap!
I wanted to change the ignition and get a midpipe anyways, its probably a sign haha.

 

Do you know the age of the coils? If you know they are 20-30k miles old just replce them anyway. Not much point testing ancient coils. Mazmart are now selling the latest "C" coils. Pick up a whole ignition set there.