didnt know to check for DSC, is that normally only on the 6 ports?

Also, where is a good place to get a compression test done? the AA report said "Unable to perform relative compression test on this
vehicle" how much will it cost?

 

Yes it is normal.

A compression test for a rotary can be done at a rotary specialist (eg rx7heaven) or a mazda dealer. Not sure of the price as mine was paid for by the dealer and I personally knew the guy who did the test and built my engine.

I still strongly think there is something fishy about that car. It doesnt seem right to have 16s as they dont fit over type s brakes (therefore you dont have type s brakes)

 

Compression test can be anywhere from $100-$200

 

OK so I have my own stupid question. I have recently ordered a BHR midpipe. My cat has 85K miles on it and I know it will only last so long. I know with the midpipe I will most likely get a CEL, but my questions revolves around inspection. Here in PA we have emissions, so I planned to just pop on my stock cat for inspection. Will the ECU then recognize that I have my stock cat on and kick off the CEL? Will the CEL create a log file in the ECU that will cause me to fail inspection?

 

Nope and no... Perform the NVRAM reset to clear any past/previous codes. Remove the Cat-converter to visually inspect the packing in front if it is clogged. Look through the O2 hole to check the second section for clogs, as well. If you put a generic mid-pipe, you will always have a CEL. If the OEM Cat get's clogged or toasted, majority, the CEL will not show up. Easiest way to know if it is partially clogged besides removing it is to drive it hard at night for 15-20 min. then park in a very dark spot and visually check below looking for a glow-ring around the second O2 sensor.

 

Not sure who you are responding to Grace? Your answer doesn't fit Chrishoky's question.

Are you in an OBD2 county? or a visual only county? (I'm in a visual only county)

If you are visual only, then the CEL doesn't matter obviously, so taking a guess that you are in an OBD2 county.

Basically, when it comes time for inspection, put the cat on several days ahead of time, pull the battery negative cable for a minute or so, and the codes will be cleared. You will still not be able to pass at this point, since the emissions system readiness monitors are all "not ready". It takes several drive cycles for the emissions readiness monitors to either change to "complete" or "ready". Only then will you pass the emissions check. This is presuming that you don't have a different emissions problem. For example, the rear O2 sensor tends to fail faster in a catless midpipe than in the cat, so you could kill that sensor while you are driving around with the midpipe if you transfer it. Ideally, have a different sensor for each, possibly even a dead/dying rear O2 sensor for the midpipe.


Alternatively, you could get MazdaEdit or an AccessPORT and edit the ECU's flash file to block the emissions CELs from even turning on. At that point you could pass the OBD2 check without the cat on at all.

 

OK I think you answered my question then. Take off midpipe for inspection a week or two before and replace with stock cat (which still works fine), pull the battery for a bit then drive the car for a week or two to let the monitors become "ready", then all should be good as long as my 02 sensor is functioning properly. Sound correct?

 

Yup.

Get an OBD2 bluetooth plug, the torque app if you have android smartphone, and you can monitor the readiness monitors yourself.

 

This is a good idea. Where can I get the OBD2 plug? I do have an android phone.

 

There are dozens of options, from around $25 to around $150. Higher prices generally mean better longevity (heat failure) and/or faster transfer rates for live data streaming.

 

Thanks Ill do some research.

 

Also if your state only does the obd2 inspection it is possible to pass emissions with a midpipe on the car. Once you reset the cel you have to drive for between 20 and 50 miles(sometimes more, it just depends), with at least a few trips total. You need to monitor the emissions readiness and wait until you have 1 or 2 'not ready', it depends what your state allows. In Nevada you can have 2 emissions tests 'not ready' and still pass smog.

Of course the easier way is to just swap the cat back in if you want to do as riwwp mentioned.

 

Do I have to replace the O Rings when replacing fuel injectors?

 

Have to? no Should? Yes.

they are dirt cheap and easily obtained, so there isn't much reason not to.

 

I have a 2004 Maxda RX8. Whenever I drive it consistently for more than 5 hours it mis-behaves. It does not shift properly, lugs, engine sounds awful, can not keep consistent speed levels. No warning lights go off, does not over heat. Is this normal for this car to not perform on long distance drives? Any suggestions as to why this happens?

 

Not normal. I did tons of long distance drives of 6+ hours in my 8, including a 8,330 mile drive in 9 days across the country and back.

What transmission do you have?

 

automatic transmission

 

Check your fuel pump......they often quit when they get hot....so long drive and lower fuel levels the output often drops enough that they don't run properly

 

I was just curious because they look to be in great shape, still very pliable. (Only 46k on the engine)

Ok, then to expand. If I am having the secondary injectors cleaned (and possibly replaced) would it be best to do all the injectors on that rail?

 

Should have someone look at the tranny...if it is the issue you want to do something before it dies completely

Has it ever been serviced....?

 

automatic transmission

 

YES, it gets serviced regularly. Last time I did a long road trip, it did this, took it to shop, they scoped it, found nothing wrong. This trip was over 2000 miles and thought I was never going to make it back. After it sits over night, it performs properly the next day. What the hell!

 

I suspected as much. Automatic transmission shifting problems may not actually be transmission related, since it uses engine parameters to determine when to shift. If something throws those off, then your shifting could be impacted.

How many miles are on the car?

how old is the transmission fluid?

Does the engine ever cut out completely? If so, how long does it take you to get it started again?

When was the last time your MAF was cleaned?

How old are your spark plugs, plug wires, AND coils?

Have you ever run into fuel pump problems before?

Does it start cutting out and stumbling only when you are low on gas? 5 hours without stopping for gas must be getting pretty low.

Is it 5 hours continuously? Without any breaks where the car is shut off? How long must it be shut off before you don't run into the problem every 5th hour of running?

 

How many miles are on the car? Only 72,000

how old is the transmission fluid? Not sure.

Does the engine ever cut out completely? If so, how long does it take you to get it started again? NO

When was the last time your MAF was cleaned? Don't know what that is?

How old are your spark plugs, plug wires, AND coils? Not sure.

Have you ever run into fuel pump problems before? NO


Does it start cutting out and stumbling only when you are low on gas? 5 hours without stopping for gas must be getting pretty low. No - I never let it run to empty.

Is it 5 hours continuously? Without any breaks where the car is shut off? How long must it be shut off before you don't run into the problem every 5th hour of running? Yes it starts misbehaving around 5 hours straight. Only corrects itself after it sits over night.

 

How long (time and mileage) have you owned your 8?

There are some basic maintenance items you will need to do since you have no idea when they were last done.

You never let it run empty, but that doesn't really answer that question. How low is the fuel in the fuel tank when this happens? Could it be anywhere? Is it low fuel every time? etc....