great awesome iam praying for the best now then

edit: thank you very much for helping me

 

Is anyone able to tell me the difference between apex seal part numbers 0000-01-9116 and 0000-01-9117, other than a full set of 6 vs a set of 3? Thanks!

 

This may be a really dumb question but any way of searching online or anyone has any credible mechanics that work on these rotaries in NY? I don't have much friends and I really don't want to go back to the dealer.

 

...

 

if its not engine related its no different then working on any other car

 

Is premix fuel safe for use in the rx8 (series one).

This is the one that comes premixed at the gas station

 

I've never heard of a gas station that sells premixed fuel and oil. Where are you located? If you don't know what oil is in the fuel, don't use it.

 

i live in the pacific islands, but i agree with you on not knowing what oil is in the fuel then dont use it

 

Just so we’re on the same page.....
“Premix” as the term is used with rotaries, is the practice of adding a small amount (0.5 to 1.0 oz. @ gallon) 2-cycle oil (oil designed to burn in 2-cycle engines) in with the car’s fuel. This is to augment, or in some cases replace oil that is automatically introduced at the intake phase by an engine “pump”. The oil is needed and used to lubricate the hard seals (side, corner and apex) and to aid dynamic compression.

I’m not familiar with any gas stations that sell fuel with oil already added either. But never been to the pacific islands either. Since 2-cycle engines are widely used for boats maybe it’s available where you live???

 

no, technically it’s not legal in the US to add oil into your gas tank due to emissions laws.

 

It is not illegal to put additives like premix (or STP of fuel injector cleaner) into your fuel, there is no technical to it. The EPA emission standards apply at the tailpipe and have nothing to do with what you put in your tank, except that it has to burn clean enough to pass the tail pipe test. . The confusion is that the primary fuel used for any car driven on a public road has to be a taxed fuel. This is why diesel fuel is dyed red for off-road use since it is not taxed and why states test trucks at weigh stations for red dye fuel since it a cheaper fuel (because it is not taxed). It is also why you cannot run bio-fuel you make at home from food grease as a diesel replacement since it is not a taxed fuel. You can however add whatever you want to your road taxed fuel.

 

Is there supposed to be a screen or guard of some sort on the oil strainer? Thought I read no but I can't find the info now.

 

Is there a way to tell by VIN which edition of the car is associated to said VIN? I.E character that dictate "this car is a shinka" etc.

 

I just got done ripping apart 2 series1 motors from an '04. Neither had a guard over the strainer. Just the angled tube with the screen on the inside center.

 

So I've taken my radio out twice, had no radio, display or A/C working. I did the face tightening got my A/C working but no radio or display. I went in again but no luck. I checked all the fuses and they are all working. Searched but very vague fixes. Anyone know of a thread with similar problems? If I got a dual bin kit will I get my display back? I'll spend the money if it fixes everything. Thanks in advance.

 

There is either something wrong with the head unit or it isn't getting power

Do you have a multimeter? Check to see if it's getting power to the plugs.

The center panel display gets a signal from the A/C amplifier unit

There is a fairly complex test routine for the A/C climate control unit ( the unit with the dials below the head unit) in the factory workshop manual

 

Thank you for the response! The A/C is working now but no radio or display. I’m going to pull it out again and use a multi meter as you suggested. Thank you.

 

Do the engines with low/bad compression spin faster when attempting to start? Like is there less strain on the starter because of the low compression and it can achieve a higher speed as a result? On the flip side, does a clogged cat/exhaust create enough of a restriction that the cranking speed is reduced? Like would the exhaust restriction create enough back pressure that the starter is fighting it while trying to turn over?

 

I doubt either of those scenarios would be an issue......

There will often be a different sound in the weak compression engines... mostly noticeable when you pull the trailing plugs.... there is a much reduced squish from the compression pulse.

 

Anyone ever find a DIY for the headlight auto leveling sensor link, I've narrowed down some road noise to what I think is this link knocking around. Feels pretty loose and when I felt up my sway bar end links they felt pretty solid. So far it's replace the entire thing, which no thanks for $400 or so, or a $50 link from belarus on ebay.

I'm gonna pull it today regardless while my car is up on stands to fiddle with the thing, maybe it's supposed to be really loose and janky in the sockets?

 

the joints are pretty loose... and I doubt that you would hear them in any respect.
I think your issue is someplace else

Just remove the mounting bolt and see if the noise goes away

 

Thanks dannobre! I ended up doing exactly what you suggested, pulled the headlight link and tested, same noises so I'm back to suspecting my end links. I have parts on the way since I jumped the gun and ordered them when I first thought it might be them. They feel tight when I try to move them by hand but maybe I'm just a noodle armed amateur. We shall see, I've been hunting down rattles and other noises during this quarantine, it's kept me pretty busy.

 

You can rule out the sway bar end links the same way... disconnect them and see of the noise goes away...

 

Well then. Now... I feel... simple. Never even occurred to me to just disconnect them, like somewhere in the back of my mind I'm thinking I can't leave them off or my car will explode.

Thanks again dannobre.

 

There is a **** in the trunk. It has an H and an S on it - what is it?