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RX-8 Discussion General discussion about the RX-8 that doesn't fit in one of the specialty forums.

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Old 03-28-2018, 12:00 PM   #6851  
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Okay, Air conditioning control ***** -

$11 for a set of 3 for the Mazda 3,

$55 for ONE for the Rx8!

Look, I don't care what it looks like at this point, can anyone show me one for around $10-15 that will WORK? The inside portion of mine was apparently brittle plastic that just snapped. And now I have to change my AC controls with a pair of pliers I keep in the glove box.
Fixed mine by adding a fuel injector grommet around the fragile plastic stem inside the ****. 8 years later, still kicking. If the stem is still there, you cam fix it.
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Old 05-08-2018, 06:24 AM   #6852  
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u0003

What dose this code me and what is the fix plz its saying something about cambus communication I have got a missfire on cylinder 2 I no no cylinder I'm taking that a rotar 2 got coils on route tnks in advance
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Old 05-14-2018, 12:48 AM   #6853  
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Hello everyone, i've been a long fan of Rx7 but since the price of rx7 in my country is illogical and dumb (i mean heck rx8 still cost around $18k USD). Thats not the point, i still love rx8 and i think they are really great looking and practical (as in 4 seater, good transporter yada yada yada) the question is getting mt with little modification but way older (2004 have a lot of m/t, the youngest i can find is 2006) or get a much younger 2009-2012 rx8 but in automatic (which sucks because i want a younger but have manual transmision) the price difference is not that high that i would actually care about it tbh, Its only 5-8k usd. Im ready for engine rebuild (or swap to 2jz, as i know the mechanic that can do it). So the main problem is old mt compared to young at. I know age is not the best indicator and i should do compression test but its a starting point i guess. Also the series 2 (especially the r3) looks way better than the series 1.

any advice?
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Old 05-14-2018, 01:04 AM   #6854  
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Originally Posted by Alexiev View Post
Hello everyone, i've been a long fan of Rx7 but since the price of rx7 in my country is illogical and dumb (i mean heck rx8 still cost around $18k USD). Thats not the point, i still love rx8 and i think they are really great looking and practical (as in 4 seater, good transporter yada yada yada) the question is getting mt with little modification but way older (2004 have a lot of m/t, the youngest i can find is 2006) or get a much younger 2009-2012 rx8 but in automatic (which sucks because i want a younger but have manual transmision) the price difference is not that high that i would actually care about it tbh, Its only 5-8k usd. Im ready for engine rebuild (or swap to 2jz, as i know the mechanic that can do it). So the main problem is old mt compared to young at. I know age is not the best indicator and i should do compression test but its a starting point i guess. Also the series 2 (especially the r3) looks way better than the series 1.

any advice?
FD RX-7 is expensive anywhere you go, really.

It all comes down to if you prefer MT.

MT RX-8 is generally a better value. AT RX-8 not only has lower redline and 20 less HP, but the lower trims also lack the LSD, and all ATs have the steel prop shaft(MTs have carbon fiber ones), only 1 oil cooler, among other things. RX-8 is built with an MT in mind, with the AT being an afterthought.
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Old 05-14-2018, 01:31 AM   #6855  
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FD RX-7 is expensive anywhere you go, really.

It all comes down to if you prefer MT.

MT RX-8 is generally a better value. AT RX-8 not only has lower redline and 20 less HP, but the lower trims also lack the LSD, and all ATs have the steel prop shaft(MTs have carbon fiber ones), only 1 oil cooler, among other things. RX-8 is built with an MT in mind, with the AT being an afterthought.
yeah, and it kinda tilts me to see that my option is either an old RX8 on MT or new RX8 on AT hahahaha

i guess im getting the MT RX8. thanks
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:25 AM   #6856  
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my rx8 over heated I pulled it apart when I got to the radiator I didn't see anything crazy but when i look around under the car there is a trail or coolant going to the back of the car also there was white smoke coming from under the car next to the driver side and get white smoke from the exhaust please help
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Old 05-31-2018, 12:15 PM   #6857  
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What to rest the motor on? (Besides directly on floor)
I have acquired an extra motor that has low compression that I'm going to rebuild in a couple of weeks. Until I do the rebuild I don't know what I could rest the motor on for storage in the corner of my garage.


I'd like for it to be able to roll, suggestions are strongly welcomed. After rebuilding the engine and installing it into my 8 I will have the motor that comes out of my 8 to rebuild, so I would like something durable since it will support an engine on and off for several months at least. The number 1 priority would be something with a footprint not much larger than the engine itself.
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Old 05-31-2018, 12:41 PM   #6858  
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mover dolly if height isn't important
12 in. x 18 in. 900 lb. Carpet End Hardwood Dolly
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Old 05-31-2018, 01:01 PM   #6859  
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mover dolly if height isn't important
12 in. x 18 in. 900 lb. Carpet End Hardwood Dolly
Height is not important at all. If I may ask, have you used this for a motor before and if so how did it sit?
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Old 05-31-2018, 02:39 PM   #6860  
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Height is not important at all. If I may ask, have you used this for a motor before and if so how did it sit?
I have personally never used them for a rotary engine but I did with a 4pot.

You would have the make a cradle(use 2x4) for the oil pan, or lay it on the flywheel. The heavier the engine and the more dirt in your garage(zipties are horrible for this) the less it wants to roll.

However all said and done if you have some spare cash I would suggest an actual engine stand and an adapter plate
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Old 05-31-2018, 03:19 PM   #6861  
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Originally Posted by sonicsdaman View Post
I have personally never used them for a rotary engine but I did with a 4pot.

You would have the make a cradle(use 2x4) for the oil pan, or lay it on the flywheel. The heavier the engine and the more dirt in your garage(zipties are horrible for this) the less it wants to roll.

However all said and done if you have some spare cash I would suggest an actual engine stand and an adapter plate
I have an actual engine stand, its the adapter plate im waiting on. I like the mazdatrix one, but due to its size its so damn expensive to ship. I might just bite the bullet and buy it. I was just hoping I would've had the chance to just pick it up during my next trip down to LA, but 90% of the time my trips are on weekends when they are closed.


I also might need a flywheel stopper, I don't believe that my air compressor flows enough air to power my craftsman impact driver at 100% power so that I could remove the flywheel with that method which sucks.
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Old 06-12-2018, 02:29 PM   #6862  
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Doing on-going repairs to my 06. Replaced front brake rotors and got all new pads and there started a loud knock when going over any sized bumps, cracks in the road, etc. Comes from both sides in the front. I was told previously by a mechanic who looked at it that the calipers are knocking. And some search reveals this could be possible with the pads rattling around inside the caliper. However, I still get the noise with braking, so I don't think it is.

I still have to do my rear brakes, and was hoping to solve the front knocking problem before I moved onto the back, but after taking it for a test drive, I heard knocking from the rear, too.

I do suspect the front control arms as they have never been replaced, maybe end links, possibly bushings all around, or something else I'm not thinking of to be causing the noise. I've already had to replace the rear control arms about 9000 miles ago. This is a dedicated track car, and the track/solo events it goes to are pretty bad with deep ruts and cracks that are hit at around 60 mph in mid corner. I imagine that is pretty rough for OEM joints. Would the rear control arms only last that long given the track abuse?

Can I get some help trouble shooting? I will take a video either today or tomorrow and update with the sound. It is pretty loud.
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Old 06-13-2018, 08:29 AM   #6863  
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I would start by tightening your control arms. I know if the bolts to the frame are loose then it makes a very noticeable knocking noise especially in the front when hitting bumps. You can get at these bolts but cranking your wheels fully each way and reaching into the wheel well.
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:41 PM   #6864  
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I had rusty rotors from sitting two weeks, kept hearing what sounds like top shock mount on bumps.

After a good run out on hwy it's gone.

It's 07 with 35k miles and b12 kit.

It think it's the rotors shaking pads up when rusty and not on brakes.
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Old 06-13-2018, 11:34 PM   #6865  
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RX8 turbo built by Simon promaz

  • Hi all just wondering something has anyone put a turbo in an RX8 and was built by Simon at promaz let me know please
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Old 06-13-2018, 11:35 PM   #6866  
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lots of boosted car builds here. idk who you are talking about tho as far as engine builders
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Old 06-16-2018, 07:37 PM   #6867  
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rx8

So I just bought a RX8 about a month has only 60000 on it.And I put a toyosport catback on it got a cell from exhaust and now it misses fires and shuts down. everything is new on engine guy showed me paper on all the parts and then recently fuel pump line quick connector broke and replaced it with regular fuel hose and now it want crank even after deflood please help!
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Old 06-16-2018, 07:40 PM   #6868  
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Have the ignition coils ever been replaced? You should test them and replace as necessary.
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Old 06-17-2018, 12:03 AM   #6869  
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Hmm, so what exactly is the CEL?

And when you say it won't crank, do you mean nothing happens, or does it turn slowly, or does it turn quickly but won't "catch"?
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Old 06-17-2018, 12:17 AM   #6870  
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rx8

cell after removal cat and yes it turns over quick but want catch
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