adversus

Well it apparently just threw this code for the first time this week, and it's the original cat with almost 120k on it, so I didnt think too much damage would be done, but I could very likely be wrong, I appreciate any and all feedback given though, so thank you all!

IamFodi

iTrader: (1)

I drove on a bad cat for a couple thousand miles because I didn't know what the problem was and my local dealership refused to acknowledge anything was wrong with the car. Ended up paying for a written diagnosis at an indy shop, which I took to a different dealership, who replaced the cat under warranty. They ended up replacing the engine under warranty like 15k miles later for low compression.

Never had a CEL of any kind, even with real misfiring and no power above 6k with the clogged cat.

If that's any indication, I shudder to think how bad it'd have to get to trigger a CEL, and how long you could drive if a CEL were the only thing that'd make you worry.

NotAPreppie

This is always the case when selling a car. Issues always "just started recently."
Catalyst efficiency issues don't always equate to clogging. It could simply be that some contaminant has deactivated enough of the catalyst to pop a code.

That said, it's not hard to check if the catalyst bed is breaking up (which would lead to serious issues). Of course, you should check the ignition components to make sure that the cat wasn't killed by misfires.

adversus

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

no rotary should ever have a cat

IamFodi

iTrader: (1)

All rotaries are time bombs. :]

If you want to check for misfires, look at the misfire counts in the Mode 6 data.

Shlappy

Would I need an alignment if I pulled out one of my rear coilovers to fix something my dad messed up when he tried to "help"? Just recently got an alignment done... Twice. First time the inner and outer tie rods seized on my driver front, cost me $145 for the "alignment", went to the wreckers and pulled tie rods from an 8 there, came home and replaced them. Had to go and get another alignment, another $145.

Now I need to take out my passenger rear coilover to fix how it was assembled since when my dad helped me he messed it up and ***** loose as heck and rattling around. Just need to know if I'd need an alignment since Im not changing anything and only unbolting the passenger rear and removing?

Thanks!

Hurrican111

Another dumas question to add to this thread. Can you elaborate on this quote Loki... I changed the cat recently and it improved a bit but not as I hoped it would. I just had all spark plugs and threads renewed and changed into cold ones due to my climate area and winter arriving. What more damage could be expected if driven too long on bad cat? The thing is, I am wondering about that for myself because the owner before me did not maintain the car at all. The Mazda agency here is not worth a thing in having any help regarding fixing the car. They are as stupid about RX8 as I am.

UnknownJinX

So had you replaced your ignition coils yet? Those are known to fail.

Also, cold spark plugs don't mean they are designed for colder climate. It means the spark plugs will hold up better under sustained high revs, but colder spark plugs will also foul easier in daily driving. Are you using OEM NGK plugs(RE7C-L and RE9B-T) or something else?

Try looking for a rotary shop near you, and read through the New Owner sticky.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Use stock spark plugs, there's nothing to be gained by using something else on a lightly modified or stock car. And yeah, definitely stay on top of ignition coil maintenance. Your cat died for a reason, and coils are the most common reason.

If your cat is partially clogged or broken up and blocking exhaust flow, you build up pressure at the engine's exhaust ports, which creates excess heat and forces more exhaust gases past the side and apex seals than usual and could distort, erode or weaken metal. Every component has to work harder, so the fuel you burn powers the slow destruction of your motor rather than forward motion.

The best advice when looking at an RX8 with a questionable history is to get a compression test. You'll know what you're working with and can make decisions from there.

adversus

So, regardless of the CEL code being thrown, if the engine has good compression, I can fix the CAT and it should be fine without further drama on this situation?
sorry if I'm making you repeat yourself, i just want to make sure

Thank you!

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

You need to find out why the cat went bad and be sure it's fixed.
Bad coil(s) causing misfires being the usual suspect.
Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

+1 to the above.

You can replace the cat, but if the ignition is bad it will kill that cat too and we're back to square one. The stock ignition coils become suspect at 20-25k miles of age. Round here we replace them preventatively before problems arise, or splurge on a BHR or similar aftermarket coil solution.

​​​​​​See with the previous owner when the ignition was last changed and go from there.

NotAPreppie

Do yourself a favor and spend the $20 on Amazon on an HEI ignition tester. Not the cheapest $10 version, the one around $20.

Even if you upgrade to a more robust ignition system, they can still fail and having the right tools to diagnose it feels amazing.

CmdrSnake

Legit question... looking to pick up an rx8 here next spring and was looking for a solid "before you buy" list. I haven't found one pinned here yet, but ill keep looking. Could anyone link it or pm me where it's at in case i cant find it? thanks in advance, look forward to getting my first 8

adversus

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
Read all of that, and it will definitely acquaint you with most of the ins and outs of the RX-8, I did the same thing and was not disappointed

UnknownJinX

See the bottom of my signature.

gwilliams6

Yes read that new and potential owners list completely first. Then be sure to get a rotary-specific engine compression test done BEFORE you buy, or else be prepared to spend several thousands on an engine replacement.
Also go over the car's maintenance records and check the following:

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine. __________________

welltal89

I've got a lot of "smart shopping" to do. Just got an 8 with no compression on front rotor.

PleaseW84myRX8

I've been trouble shooting a knock for a while now coming from the front suspension/brakes after a brake caliper rebuild and new brake pads. Finally took it to a mechanic and he said the brake pads were too small for the calipers. Called Carbotech and they said it shouldn't be that. I've measured the pads and the carbotechs are 1/32" of an inch smaller than the old ones they replaced. But there is nearly a 1/4" of play. The only other thing I can think of is the new caliper clips I used.

Which is interesting because I found them to be really hard to get. I bought 3 sets before I found one that would actually fit the brake caliper. All were made for a 2006 Mazda RX8, but the first two were either missing clips in the "kit" or the clips were too large and wouldn't fit at all. I tried Doorman, AC Delco, and Centric. Can't remember which is currently in there.

Can you recommend me caliper clips that you know work great for both the front and rear? I still have to do the rear brakes and wanted to fix this problem first.

Steve Dallas

Carbotech's back plate sizing is all over the place. I've had them be too small, and I've had to file them down to make them fit.

New clips should hold them, however. I have had good luck with Centric clips, FWIW.

PleaseW84myRX8

K, I'll see if I can figure out which is in there. If not them, I'll get them. Thanks.

plantman47

Is there any decent free tuning software out there?

UnknownJinX

No tuning software is free for any car that I know of. Gotta pay to play.

mazdafan1892

My rx8 when i turn on the car it takes a long time for the heat to come on. The antifreeze is full and when I return to the car an hour after driving shut off park and return the car is as hot as a oven. Ideas?

Also a few other things the brake works but needs to be replaced, Anyone have theirs replaced? Expensive?

So pissed off, I had to get an oil change recently and the auto place lost my engine bay cover but I cant prove it and they wont replace it. I had a backup cover that was given to me but my parents might have trashed it not knowing what it was in the garage.