Wow! That sounds like the cost for Mobil 1 0w40 in Germany when I was there.

We took a holiday to Melbourne and Sydney, and couldn't afford to park car for $40/night or even eat cheese made there.

That's one way to slow immigration even though most of you guys were nice and friendly people.

I live in West Texas half the year and Indonesia the other half. We load up all the cheap stuff we need and go back to Indonesia with it.

Amazon has Ravenol FL22 concentrate for $40/5liters. Might trust that German company or there's Zerex Asian formula, etc.

 

Cant find FL22 Coolant here, is prestone okay? 50/50

 

IIRC Prestone has 2-EHA in it, which is known to eat some seals.

If you have to go aftermarket, make sure the coolant doesn't have 2-EHA in it.

 

I don't really know about that particular coolant. Any coolant that doesn't contain 2-EHA is ok. Check the ingredients at the back. Distilled water won't corrode anything. Tap water will. Contrary to popular belief, coolant doesn't cool the engine. Water does. Water has the best heat transfer properties. Coolant lowers the freezing point and raises the boiling point. It also stops corrosion, but as long as you use distilled water, you're fine. Since you're in the tropics, and you don't have to worry about freezing, run 30/70. That's 30% coolant and 70% distilled water. That's what I did.

Regarding your E90, were you looking at the temp gauge on the dash? Even though it appears to be linear (because it has temp markings) it's probably not. Last year I drove a friend's 718 Boxster, and on the display where it shows engine oil temp, coolant temp etc etc, everything sat at 190F. No matter how hard I drove, the coolant temp did not go up. No way it didn't go up by at least 1F when flooring it.

 

Ah.. no wonder mine cools down fast. ok i will try to run 30/70, and coolant without 2-EHA.

E60. on the second thought, yeah i think it's the oil temp not water temp haha.

 

Oh, but it does.

I am in a kart club and it has a small 250cc engine. We bring it to competition annually and the rule says that, for environmental reasons, the only engine coolant allowed is distilled water, maybe with a dash of water wetter. Definitely no glycol allowed.

The cooling system has to be flushed I believe every two weeks, and it reeked of dead fish when I had to drain it once. I also had a quick glance at the coolant passage and see it's rusted, so definitely don't use it for long.

 

 

Bro, it says right there. Last line. 2-Ethylhexyl acrylate. It shouldn't have it.

 

My '04 RX8 just blew a coolant seal, smoked like a mosquito fogger + coolant in my oil, and won't start. I don't have the money to replace or rebuild the engine, and couldn't reasonably save up enough in a reasonable time frame. Should I part it out? Sell it for scrap? Sell as-is? Pull the engine and sell the body w/ everything else?

 

Parting out will take a while.

Selling it as-is for about a grand is about the best move IMO. It helps that if the next guy gets a Mazda reman to fix it, they don't have to pay $1k extra for the core. And it's not like the dead engine will do you any good.

 

It's not for environmental reasons. It is to keep slippery glycol off the track, should you spring a leak.

If you run distilled water, you need something to lubricate the water pump and prevent corrosion. Motul Mocool, Redline Water Wetter, etc. serve these purposes. (If you use WW, be absolutely sure you don't have any coolant left in the system, unless you want brownish black sludge in there.)

 

 

I just checked the rule book again. They didn't say why(though I recall reading environmental somewhere; I could be wrong), but what you said do make sense. Also, turns out that we also can't use anything like water wetter, but then again, these race engines are disposable, so it's not a huge issue.

When I went to autocross the first time, someone had a coolant leak(of course it was a Subie, LOL), and they had to pause the event for a little bit, clean it up, put sand on it, have a tall truck drive over the area to ensure it is gone, and the event continued.

Honestly can't tell you. Never tried this or know anything about it.

 

Hello everyone! I'm assuming this question has been asked before. I tried to find info but clearly I'm not very good at it. I'm looking into getting rear bumper for our rx8. The bumper that I want says it fits on an rx8 up to the year 2008. We currently have a 2010. My question is what is the difference between the 08 bumper and the 2010? I'm interested in purchasing a Veilside rear bumper but can't find one that fits 2010! Is it something we can make fit with some extra money or is it just better to find a different one?

 

Idk the answer, but until someone has one, maybe it's in here, it lists Veilside kits versions 1 & 2.
?

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-ext...dy-kits-13713/

 

Can't speak for Veilside, but after 2009 the exhaust tips are positioned higher, so you would at least need a 2009+ muffler to make it work.

 

I am installing a series 2 fuel pump in my 04 rx8 but i am not sure if i should install a walbro 255 into the series 2 pump before installing. Does the series 2 fuel pump still have the arram pump?

 

this thread is sweet.

 

I dont think it is a dumb question. But if someone can help me to show how to design a 2jz engine mount for rx8, I would really appreciate it.

 

I don't think this question belongs here.

Best bet is to look up existing threads and info on this build. Otherwise, you will have to hit up a fabricator and see if they can rig something up for you.

Individual builders may share this kind of info with you, while I doubt shops are willing to share anything.

Good luck.

 

Tranny oil question :
Hard time looking for Redline MT90 here, Is Castrol Manual GL-4 80w90 alright for the job? (Humid country 85-93F Ambient Temp)

Thank u.

 

As long as it's GL-4 and not Royal Purple (which supposedly created some issues with the synchros), it should be fine.

It's really a case of "whatever makes you happy." I used Motorcraft XT-M5-QS before and everyone recommended it, but the fluid is burnt black and felt terrible after a mere year. I am currently using Motul Gear 300 and I will see how will it holds up. It's working very well so far.

 

Thank you Jinx, Im really taking advantage of this thread.

 

What's up people, I havn't asked a question in a while. Anyone know how long it should take to heat up an RX8.? I know for sure the colder it is, if it is the winter it will take much longer to get the temp needle up but I hear some people online say 5 min or less. I take at least 10 min most of the time 15-20 min. I seen a youtube vid of someone mentioning 20 min for optimal. Curious what your thoughts are?



Also a couple of other things I notice this weird sound sometimes I think its the computer starting up when I turn it on from cold. It's kinda like a desktop processor sound. No codes. Just wondering if hearing it is normal and when it comes to breaking in the rain, I have fairly new break pads and rotars are at least 50-60% if not more and tires are less than 1.5 yrs old, I feel when I step on the brake in the rain, I feel the tire, its hard to stop and the pad when I step on it feels like something is unstable. ONLY in the rain. In the dry weather its super controlled. ???

 

^ Warm it up to what? Coolant temp = 180F? That takes about 8-10 minutes with my car when driving it at low load. Even then, the oil temp is still low, as it takes oil much longer to warm. I give it a good 20 minutes, before I get on it.

The ECU is silent, as it has no moving parts, and is designed to avoid all oscillation. What you are probably hearing is the fuel pump priming pulse. Many fuel pumps are noisy when cold.

How does one "break in the rain"? This has me concerned, because I have never broken in my rain, and have always used it as-is from the sky. Surely, I have been missing out on something all these years!

Braking in the rain could be a combination of any number of variables. What specific car, pads, rotors, tires, fluid (and date of last flush)?