There was a leak with the hose from what I know or i think that's what they said. Bad news now, my car wont crank because I'm thinking the battery/starter is/are shotted. 😭

 

There was a Mazda service recall on the pedal, but all they do is check it and replace with another same clutch pedal if they see any stress cracks. You could weld it yourself, but I got a strengthened one from BHR and called it a day. Worth the price for the piece of mind. If you break a clutch pedal while out in the road, you are stuck where you are and will need a tow. https://black-halo-racing.myshopify....d-clutch-pedal


Cheers

 

nah i broke mine years ago and was able to drive home 20 miles. i think welding is the cheapest/easiest option

 

What does no flaming mean?

 

Basically don't be a dick.

 

Is there some possible way that I can release the trunk's frame from the 8? I'm a total noob that's trying to add a spoiler on it. 🤦

 

Is there any possible way of removing the trunk frame that is under the trunk lip trim? I'm trying to add a spoiler on and still practically a noobie. I've searched and couldn't find anything .

 

You can't remove the frame on the inside.... you will have to drill through both and add washers or spacers as needed. Depending on where the spoiler goes that's not a big deal really

Just the old adage.... measure twice/drill once 😉

 

I had to add some different drill sets and drill some big holes in the trunk. Surprisingly, it looked like it was even at the end and the trunk was definitely 2x heavier.

 

So this is where I ask dumb questions lol. Her it is. Which fuel injectors are primary and Which are secondary. And can you swap the red ones out for yellow ones.

 

Yes, you *can* swap out the red injectors for yellows, but..., if you haven't already, I'd recommend you research and understand... the benefit in doing so, if you should do so, and the changes to your fuel mapping / delivery which will result.

 

So would I have to do somthing with the tuning cause I'm not set up for that.

 

Yes. "Tuning" is mapping the proper amount of fuel to the air metered by your MAF. Changing the size injectors changes this precise fuel metering and will need to be adjusted, i.e. tuned. So, yes, IF you change your injectors you will need an adjustment to your tune.

Changing injector sizing typically is to increase fuel capacity to accommodate turbo / super charging. So, the good news is you don't need to change your injectors unless you're going FI.

 

Oh I see. I wasn't planning on going FI I was just gonna swap them because I have extra yellows but no reds. And wondered if it would give any gain doing it without the tuning.

 

While doing different kind of tricks to unflood...

should I push only accelerator down or clutch also?

In different videos about unflooding they usually speak about accelerator only.

Shame on me about this million times faced problem and idiot question - I NEED HELP.

 

The starter will not engage if you don't push the clutch down, so yes, press the clutch pedal in.

 

I bypassed my OMP (had to) so I will oil my car by premixing.

How much should I put oil into my gas tank (full tanking)?

Oil recommendations?

When my OMP was working, I premixed already for just in case.
I put 2 desiliters (7 oz) into full tank about 60 litres (16 gallons).

Is that enough also now, when OMP has bypassed?

 

That's barely enough for first time, but remember next time run tank to about half or 8 gallons and put that much in.

Always know approx gallons needed, and pure on that basis before filling.

I've run 1 oz per gallon for a long time, and when I took plugs out while at track day they were tan with no black carbon.

I do have the BHR ignition, so I know it's firing right.

I also, left OMP running, but since my car is 6 speed auto, it only seems to use 1 qt every 2000 miles.

 

Premix for regular driving is about 150:1, 100:1 if you're racing with no OMP.
It's a lot easier to calculate in metric: if you put in 50L you need 500mL for 100:1 and 250mL for 200:1. 375mL for 150:1. Cup and a half to a tank, whichever way you slice it.

Why did you HAVE to remove the OMP? That's a little unusual.

 

Cool. Glad there is a thread like this!

Is exhaust braking (not really an exhaust brake but I'm talking about when you leave it in gear with foot off the accelerator to slow down) bad for the renesis, or rotary engines in general?

Is there a benefit to using MazdaEdit on a stock RX8? Is it just for tuning or can you change other stuff?

 

Engine braking.

I asked a related question a few years ago. AFAICT, there's no known problem with just letting off the gas while the car is in gear and letting the car decelerate on the overrun. Makes sense; if there were, track use would kill these engines pretty quickly (every braking zone involves decelerating while in gear, presumably with the engine at high RPM).

Technically, it's generally a good idea not to engine brake when you can use your regular brakes. But it's not like you have to clutch-in every time you slow down or the engine will grenade. Just don't engine brake instead of normal braking unless you're on a long downhill or something.

The only potential problem with engine braking is if you downshift without rev-matching. Always takes my breath away that so many people think that's even a thing. Best-case scenario is excess clutch wear; worst-case scenario is that plus weird shock loads on the engine. But I'm assuming that's not what you're talking about.

 

Engine Braking! That's it. Wasn't coming to me for some reason.

So I just got my RX8 and was driving it yesterday and today. It's been awhile since I've had a sporty car, but my old habits are coming back. I definitely still have the instinct to engine brake on most slow-downs, and to rev-match to make a smooth transition, but I'm still learning the rev-match points, so there have been a few that were slightly jarring which is what got me wondering if it was even good for this engine. I think the renny actually has more engine braking power than my 2000 celica gt did.

I didn't expect there to be anything wrong with it but just had to ask.

 

I would think if you have the factory OMP intact, it will keep injecting oil into the combustion chamber even with the car engine braking.

If you don't have OMP and only premix, this might be a problem, but even then, I believe the car injects some fuel when engine braking.

And yeah, definitely rev match when downshifting. I don't even get how you can drive a standard and not know how to rev match - that jerking and bucking motion is just very uncomfortable.

 

I've seen people engine brake, and it just creates extra wear on clutch, trans, engine, etc.

Drive car hard, put on brakes hard, and pull up the gear you need coming outta turn, but don't use engine to slow any more.

Brakes are very good at stopping, and pads are cheap to replace compared to clutch plate.

Now for sane driving, just put on brakes until car is about to stop, and push in clutch.

 

All it needs is a rebuild and, I'm 99.99 percent certain one of the apex seals snapped/came off/ broke in on one of the rotors. Other tha. That the car is in fair shape. For a 2004