awesome,thanks.

 

If you can wait until the Memorial weekend (sometimes the sales start the week before) you could probably get a pretty good deal off whatever you choose. I picked up new Ohlins 8k/5k for $1.5k last year on memorial weekend.

 

I was too early to the Ohlins party. I paid $2300 for mine. On sale. At the time, Goodwin was the only retailer. Now Sake Bomb and a few others are in the game.

.

 

That just means you got to enjoy them before the rest of us that's worth the price

 

Why does my turbo kicks in a little too late when iam going 60mph it feals like its looseing power and iam new to. Roalty
engines

 

Our cars are naturally aspirated unless you added a turbo to it.

If you have a turbo then it's either your tune or you have a big turbo, which naturally will take longer to spool up.

If you are naturally aspirated, you need to learn to properly downshift. You need the revs to accelerate.

 

Thanks it realy helps 👍

 

To expand on what I said...

Assuming you are still naturally aspirated, there should not be a delay when you press on the gas pedal, since there is no turbo to spool up.

When you say no power, does it happen when you floor it in 3rd at 50ish MPH or in 6th when you are going up a hill at 50ish MPH? The former indicates a mechanical issue, be a clogged cat or a dying fuel pump, while the latter is, as I mentioned, a driver error. This car isn't a torque monster. To make up for it, the gearbox is great and the gear ratios are fantastic to work with. Drive a 5th Gen V6 Mustang 5-speed and you will appreciate the gear ratios in our cars. A rev-match downshift will give you the power you need, and don't be afraid to rev it, as long as you maintain the car well.

 

Hey y'all, I recently acquired an 04, that needed a new engine, for a radically low price. However the previous owner removed EVERYTHING from the engine bay. I was able to figure out where most of it went, but I'm left with a few parts that I am unable to put into the puzzle. If any one could help me by pointing out where these parts go, that would be awesome. Thanks in advance.

 

Engine Power Loss

• chokes as revs increase
  • O2 sensor failure (too rich)
  • MAF failure
  • MAF disconnected
  • e-shaft sensor fouled
  • accessory belt fraying
• high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
  • Rev limit reached
• high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
  • Ignition failure
  • fuel pressure loss
  • e-shaft sensor fouled
• high end power loss (smooth)
  • Catalytic converter clog
  • air filter clog
• low end power loss (smooth)
  • Engine compression loss
• low end power loss (stumbles)
  • Ignition failure
  • front O2 sensor failure
• revs slowly but smoothly
  • O2 sensor failure (too lean)
  • catalytic converter clog
  • air filter clog
• sudden power drop at a specific rpm
  • Intake valving actuation problem
• trouble getting to redline
  • Ignition failure
  • front O2 sensor failure
  • catalytic converter clog
  • air filter clog
  • e-shaft sensor fouled
  • fuel pressure loss
  • MAF failure

 

The 2 metal U shaped are the mounts for the stock oil coolers. The 2 black upper right are under the headlights... they hold the edge of the bumper cover in place. The top left is under the front bumper cover where the VFAD takes air for the intake
Bottom left? Is it plastic?

 

I need to replace the engine in my 8, or rebuild it. Either way, after removing the motor I will need to move the car into the driveway while I do the work to the block in the garage, then somehow get the 8 back up my driveway into the garage. My driveway has a bit of a grade to it, not too steep, but I know I have no chance of getting the car back up by myself. I was contemplating using an electric winch to get my 8 up the driveway and into the garage, but I wasn't sure how strong/what capacity winch I would need for such a task.

I would install studs into the floor of my garage to anchor/bolt the winch down.

 

I use a cheap RTV winch to load mine onto a trailer... I think it is 3000 lb winch that i bought at a Harbor Freight type place. It has worked well for that for 4 or 5 years.
The car only weights 3000lbs or so....and the pull to move it on its wheels is a lot less than that.

If you are worried about it...just have someone in the car so if it breaks you can put on the brake and the car won't roll down the driveway

 

Unfortunately I will likely be by myself during all of this, hence why I was looking into options like this one.

 

You can get a remote as well... you will likely have to extend it to go that far.... but it is fairly straight forward wiring or you can setup some blocks and do it a bit at a time

Or bribe you neighbor with a beer 🙂

 

Neighbor doesnt drink.. plus he might be busy working on his GTR... or his RB swapped 510... or his F150 Raptor... :l

And all i want is a motor that has good compression lol

But dont worry, ive got plans in the works for a rotary hybrid (and not the lame electric kind), so stay tuned as ill be back with plenty more dumb questions..

 

Actually, an electric-rotary hybrid wouldn't be a terrible idea... As long as it comes with a stick shift option(so something like the CRZ).

We don't have low-end torque. Electric motors excel at low-end torque. Yes please!

 

Already back!

So assessing the coolant system and the hoses and routing.... the sole purpose of the infamous little hose that goes from top of the radiator to bottom of the coolant bottle serves the sole purpose of getting air bubbles out of the radiator/cooling system and thats it...?

 

I know alot about older cars but newer i get stumped on somethings i have a 2004 rx8 and the fuel line popped off at the tank luckily it was running or hot just primed the system and there is no retaining clip on the line any ideas where i can find one i have already looked at auto-zone and o-Reilly

 

The bottom left is plastic, yes.

 

You’re welcome.
Yes, it takes a bit longer to punctuate and use proper capitalization, but it’s worth it because it makes it easier for others to read and understand what you’re trying to say. Less work for others to figure out what the hell you’re trying to communicate so that they might help you.
Writing with punctuation is a social courtesy to others. Sorry, but not using it is just a big F.U. to the rest of us.

 

Will pressing the clutch too hard while shifting cause damage to the master cylinder/anything related to the clutch? I have a 05 rx8 and my pedal got stuck to the floor, clutch pedal shifting towards the brake pedal, and all that jazz with the squeaking. Went to the dealer and paid $800 smackaroos to replace the master cylinder and clutch pedal. I was thinking to myself I would just buy the parts myself and repair it.

 

the pedals are know to break. the factory welds on the pedal are ****. remove the clutch pedal and reweld it right. its easy and cheap. places make a bracket for the issue but again its easy and cheap to just weld it up. i think mazda may have a recall on the pedal but dont remember. whats wrong with m/c? i broke a pedal and it didnt hurt anything else

 

Anyone?

 

Maybe ...pretty important that it is retained though.