Likely an adjustment **** for your rear coilovers.....

 

That makes sense - thank you.

 

HELP ME!! my rx8 was driving ok. Had stalling prob bit had sorted that. Was on way to pick up kids from school n it just started reving out . Like room room room. High n droping , high n droping. I turned it off n pulled over. Now it wont start just turns over. I got a tow star to rule out been flooded when i went back to tow it home. It tow started n started crazy reving again. Now home n wont start. Grrrrrr , how do i fix this please????

 

Omg sorry i duno why this is on your post. I duno how to make my own post either 🙄

 

No worries.
This is a good place to post your issue.
Idk what it could be, but I'm sure someone will be able to point you in the right direction shortly.
Good luck!

 

Any codes. Only thing that comes to mind with he revving is the neutral switch or the clutch switch. The top clutch switch not the starter switch. Although maybe the starter switch is bad and that's why it won't start. Is it cranking?

 

Ok so the fuel pump wasn't the issue or the fuel leveling sensor come to find out bad barometric sensor and bad maf sensor took apart the uim redid the vacuum lines and oil line did a return line with catch can a grounded the car 3 to 1 grounding points idle fixed to a point and found my cts is malfunctioning and ssv sticking I bought an old lower intake manifold and chem dipped the valve looks brand new the bushing on the arm looks worn its the rubber one not the metal one trying to find a replacement bought a new cts matched part numbers exactly not it just rough idles when warm but those last two should fix it tried redlining to burn the carbon out didnt help much so hopefully tomorrow mods are petit street port 3mm seals 7 rotors bhr midpipe rb headers hks exhaust single tip catch can grounding wires aem cai verstuned I actually got my ac running with the metra kit as well had to solder the connections on the back of the head board no more power shortages I think I went through the entire...car just about


The work in progress of restoring her


Ok so I got her running and I have a voltage drop in the ignition it fires fine when driving but fluctuates on idle. I've swapped the coils to see if anything changed same issue so not the coils themselves checked wires all fine and put new spark plugs. Bought a harness for the battery and replaced the old added a 200 Amp alternator with a smaller pulley lights never dim and battery is constant 14 to 17 under load or idle charging system is very strong.
Now everything points to the engine harness. I've taken apart everything again....and I can't find any frayed wires everything seems sealed and no connecting points that are touching. I searched for rx8 wiring harness diagram and they all show me the battery does anyone have the engine one. Please and thank you. Don't want someone to waste time on a diy on me just need the diagram I've looked in the service manual I have as well no bueno.

 

Hello crew!
I have a question regarding a "stage 0" map tuning. I don't care about performance, just longevity, and I found a post from Infinity Rotary performance mentioning the following:

RX8 stage 0 Map
Our Stage 0 reflash. The essential reflash that enables features for the longelivity of your RX8.
The EasyMap is our entry level ECU reflash which enables you to upgrade to the latest Mazda firmware whilst also adjusting some engine critical settings to increase the longevity of your rotary powered vehicle.
Based upon your existing vehicle ECU Base Map.
Free upgrade to the latest Mazda ECU firmware.
Choose from any or all of the following updates:
Increase Oil Metering Pump (OMP) Injection Rates;
Adjusted Low & High Speed Cooling Fan Trigger Temperatures;
Adjusted Cold Start Rev Limit;
Adjusted Dwell Timing for D585, D989, BHR, AEM Smart or MSD Coil Packs;
Check Engine Light (CEL/DTC) Removal/Delete;
Throttle Response (throttle reacts faster with less pedal angle).
Official EasyTuning Certificate including details of performed changes.

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.p...99655868245577


Do you think the changes that will be performed are indeed substantial and are worth it?

 

yes

 

I am skeptical about the OMP flow increase. Without Sohn adapter this might harm your engine and your OMP injector. Also, they never tell how much they increase. so I am skeptical about this. As for the dwell, latest BHR coil does not require the change of dwell. I also do not know the price of this service, you might be better off buy your own software.

 

It's 150, in euros.
I don't have a sohn adapter, I'm premixing in the tank.
Why is it going to hurt the engine and injectors?

 

First time I've had a car long enough for the battery to go bad, do I just get anything 80D26L (for an S2), or is there more to look for? Or is there a better battery I should look for?

 

Anyone know where I can purchase a 710 cap? They don’t carry them at my local autozone.

 

It wont hurt anything. The injectors dont have a duty cycle or any other sort of mechanical limitation, and anyway the computer increases are still within the range of stock supported flow rates. And a Sohn wouldnt change anything about it anyway, except what oil is being injected.
I cant say if its worth the 150 euro, thats for you to decide, but nothing on that list sounds bad. I have most of those settings myself, theyve been offered by many tuners. I would add raising the idle to 900 rpm to smooth out vibrations at a stop.

 

80D26L isnt a common name for the format here, youre looking for a Group 35 battery. Being in Calgary, Id suggest getting something with strong CCA - above 600? Canadian Tire should be able to set you up.

 

Hi guys, so i found out that the local has station sells premix fuel (used for line trimmers and outboard motors) with this premixed

https://catalogue.total.co.uk/en-gb/...2T-SUPER-SPORT

with a ratio of 50:1

Is this ok for use in RX8 (Series 1)?

 

Nope. That's TCW3 rating, you need JASO FC or FD

 

By "hurting", I actually mean clogging. Dirty 4 stroke oil is prone to clog the OMP line and the injectors.
Check out 9krpmrx8's thread "possible new renesis engine failure theory" where his injectors are clogged.

 

Thanks Loki, much appreciated.

 

https://postimg.cc/0Mv3c342



​​​@Loki Hi Loki, is this ok? it says semi synthetic though.

 

That's fine.

 

I use Lucas Semi-Synthetic 2-cycle Oil. smokeless, low ash Meets ISO GD and Jaso FC & FD, exceeds API TC. Widely available in the USA at Wal-Mart.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lucas-Oil...-Jug/796948654

 

It's got PIB, so should be good stuff. It's listed as FD or at least TC.

I use Ravenol snowmobile 2t which is FD. I get from Amazon for about $45 for 4 liters.

 

Ok, Thanks Loki and gwilliams6 and REDRX3RX8 for your feedback appreciate it.

 

I found the cheapest JASO-FD rated 2-cycle oil is from Citgo as Mystik Sea and Snow about $USD19/gallon in the silver container. Citgo Mystik has several varieties WHICH ARE NOT JASO rated (they're TCW-3 rated which YOU SHOULD NOT USE). Always use JASO-FC or -FD rated 2-cycle in your rotary and 2-stroke machines you own. STIHL only recommends JASO-FD in their products (low ash is very important for engine performance and longevity).