More of a dumb me moment that I have to fix. I'm changing out my shift boot and accidentally threw away the boot and the black ring it attaches to. The new boot doesn't come with the plastic hardware so now I gotta find out where to get this What's the name/part number of it?

The only thing I can find is F151-64-330C which replaces both the boot and hardware. Would be nice to get just the hardware as I already have a replacement boot.




EDIT: Finally found it, part FE1564333. And guess what, its more expensive than the boot and panel combined go figure. Sad ending but I guess we got the answer.

 

In the FSM they describe clutch pedal play based on when "resistance" is felt. I'm a bit confused as there is resistance from the pedal spring when the plunger hasn't even made contact with the master cylinder, then there is resistance from the cylinder itself, then further resistance from what I assume to be the pressure plate being depressed. Furthermore, pedal play is described as clutch pedal play, clutch pedal push rod play at push rod setting line, and play at pedal pad... Any advice on simplifying this or translating into something an idiot like me could understand would be really appreciated.

Edit: I figured this out, if anyone has trouble in the future just PM me. It's a lot simpler than the workshop manual makes it out to be.

 

So just got my car back from the mechanic, the were able to fix the trunk, they said they were able to replace a part in there for lock and the "relay" for the electronics. ??? Oddly the car drives better after this was replaced. Not sure if the trunks electronics is connected to something else? I still need to investigate the other things.

 

My car dies at idle when it warms up. Every time the shift position was in neutral it would die in 1st 2nd 3rd 4th gear.. the dealership replaced the fuel pump and the essentric shaft position sensor after they did this the car had no power past 4k ram i believe limp mode and the power cut by half. Now they are saying they have to drop the fuel tank to fix the wiring? I never saw any wiring that would require this so not sure if they are ripping me off. But the car still dies at idle after 500$. Any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated even if I get flames.

 

Have they run a compression test? If not they're wasting your time.

 

please state which dealership is that incompetent

 

Brand new engine rebuilt by one of the approved guys on here compressions fine it drove beautifully just the idle thing I did smell fuel but it drove like a beast. secondary air code engine light its been on wont go away. but ever since the dealership replaced the fuel pump the gas smell went away but it won't go past 4k rpm I mean it does but it fluctuates say 4 to 5 k feels like limp mode 5 to 6k feels like high flow 6 to 7 k in between. no clue whats going on there
All of the codes cleared for 4 days then came back

 

I thought they didn't know what they were doing figured that ...i gave them the secondary air solenoid and he told me it was the wrong one...but I took one off looked exactly the same and bought it off of Atkins rotary Mazda dealership in corpus christi texas

 

You might be lucky here.

Find the Mazda recall for fuel pump leak.

They will put in new free pump, and that should fix the pump side.

I have a new upgraded pump, so I'll never take that recall until a leak.

 

Attempting some engine bay clean up and want to buy some nuts and bolts that are pretty rusty looking. Anyone know where I can get new ones or how to properly clean them up?

 

thats what they replaced before everything got worse the fuel pump recall

 

what exactly were they charging you for then?

 

he said the ess was bad so he swapped it then he said the fuel pump wires were pulled so he had to drop the fuel tank to fix them and the secondary air valve needed to be swapped i took it home don't see anything wrong with the fuel pump bought the secondary air solenoid valve because the air pump and secondary air pump both turn on bought some silicone vacuum lines with clamps and waiting for em to get in the mail odds are a wire was lose when he swapped it and wanted me to pay more out of pocket for useless work also bought fuel injector cleaner if the secondary air valve doesn't turn off and it doesn't idle better probably look into another fuel pump or the rails or both

 

Some forum digging hasn't really told me anything and I believe this to be a minor issue, but I'm wondering if the expertise here can help me track down a squeak. The conditions are below. I'm putting this in the dumb questions thread cause it's nit picking by me, I just like my cars to be as immaculate as I can, so I am tracking down every noise and oddity.

Warm engine, at idle in neutral. Is the only time I can hear it.
I can stop the squeak if I press the clutch in, even if it's just a little, not to a point where it's actually doing anything, just a touch. Also if the clutch is entirely engaged.
It is barely audible in the car with the windows up.

Sounds like it might be coming from the bottom of the engine area, I did the belts recently and checked them to see if they were it but no dice. Wondering if it might be transmission squeak since any touch of the clutch stops it, but I'm not sure cause the clutch afaik isn't even in play if it is as light a touch as I am doing. I have to inspect it closer, but it feels like all the clutch touch does it take up the free play and it still seems to stop the squeak, unless theres some electronic switches involved in the clutch, I'm pretty sure I am not pressing it hard enough to hit hydraulic action....

Thanks to anyone who can help me with ideas...

 

What exhausts actually fit the series 2? I just got an 11 sport and looked like I had one (Invidia q300) but it ended up sitting in the back of the bumper where the S1 exit should be.

 

Does anyone know the thread measurements and pitch for the studs holding the exhaust manifold on?

 

Idk, but maybe it's in this thread;

https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-ex...n-here-224753/

 

Anyone had to remove the oil pan? People mention to make sure the threads are clean. What does that mean? The FSM mentions making sure bolts are clean and no gasket material remains, but how do I clean the threads in the rotor housing? Tap/Thread chaser?

 

I've seen people use taps with shop vacs to keep debris out of engines.

 

Thanks for clarifying, that's what I was thinking also. I've never used a tap and die kit before, does the tap match the bolt size? Bolt size is M6x1.0

 

Yes, the threads are the same for taps and for dies.
To be sure hold up the tap and be sure the bolt threads match by fitting it on the tap.

 

Thanks for the help, I watched a few videos and I understand how they work. Looks like I need a bottoming tap, looking for a decent metric set as we speak.

 

M10x1.5

 

you just need an M6x1.0 rethreading tap for the oil pan holes, most auto parts stores will have one or if you have a Tractor Supply store nearby they usually have them too

however, you also need a pick or some other sharp end type device to stick up in there to clean out the far bottom end where the tap won’t get. That’s where the sealant presses up into and if it builds up too much could cause the problem.


.

 

Ok, thanks Team.