Hi I have an A/T 2005 which i have done extensive diy stuff...I just cant seem to find the issue im having on here...Even in the starting page.
here goes.
I was driving and went over a speed bump the car cut off. couldnt restart, waited nothing left the car at the mall hours later tried to jump and nothing.
anyways core of issue. I have tried to start it and its a weaker sound in the crank. so I charged up battery, which is new at autozone, changed plugs, bought new battery terminals , put in 2 new starter , used multi meter checking all other ground and all fuses, pulled the bigger things ( forgot what they call em) tested all, and stilll the same weak sounding crank no start and then i checked the fuel pump had a friend listen and its a click sound only. Im so lost at this point and cant find this issue on here anywhere.. ANY SUGGESTIONS. im accepting anything anyone offers to try.

 

Did you check the starter harness. Make sure there isn't a break inside the wire that is losing voltage to starter. Maybe the speed bump nicked it or something. Just a thought.

 

Any replies on this? I'm having a similar problem - compression is OK.

 

Dumb question but:

i just bought my 05 rx-8 and it still has the stock bose sound system. I have a Skar Audio subwoofer and amp from my old car with everything i need to install it. On my last car my stock radio had extra ports for an aftermarket subwoofer already in. Does my rx have anything like that? Or will i need to buy some kind of adapter? Or will i need to buy an aftermarket radio?

 

So, I recently bought the single license version of VersaTuner and flashed one of the canned tunes to my 2010. Christmas break has arrived so now I have time to start logging data to calibrate the MAF (1st step). Do I need to revert back to stock tune prior to this or can I build on the canned tune?

 

You can start with either but ideally the canned tune should have changes that will save you time. Calibration on MAF stays with the tunes so you would have to copy it onto a new map to reuse it.

Look at The changes that they made to the canned tune then decide where to start

 

ok, i have a stupid question. is it safe to wrap the exhaust manifold, cat, all the way down to the muffler in thermal tape to lower the temps of the middle of the car( between the seats(?

 

I wouldn't. Probably better to fab up your own heat shields or supplement the stock ones.

Especially for the cat. That thing gets hot enough as it is. If wrapped, I bet it'd melt pretty easily.

 

Yeah you have a point there, ill see if i can add a bit more to the stock ones. might break out the aluminium foil ! Thanks

 

So had an issue with the car. I couldn't put it into gear. Like it just wouldn't go, and I didn't wanna force it. And the clutch pedal wouldn't come up from the floor. It had like 2 inches of movement. But it would switch gears fine when the car was off. A guy came and pushed me out of the road and told me to pull my clutch pedal with my hand. And I had to ouch it in and pull it back out with my foot each time I shifted. Any ideas?

 

Standard reply..

Bracket, master or slave....

 

i dunno if this is exactly what fixed mine but I’ll share my process. Here goes. I had been running 89 with an octane boost and forgot to premix my stuffs. Ended up adding a fuel injector cleaner to a fresh tank of 93, then filled my sohn adapter tank. I also changed out my battery, cleaned my plugs, Checked my entire ignition system, and called it a day. If you can’t do any of that, or at least are not super technically inclined(like me), what I did that helped most was unplugged my O2 sensor behind the cat. It is loud and still had a rough idle, however I could start my car again. Hope this helps you.

 

Sorry for late reply yes Red line i did try that as you mentioned as well and nothing. starter was rechecked as i put that in a day prior. there is some sort of short.

 

Hey Guys, Super dumb question but need bolt sizes and lengths and thread type for RX8 Manual:
Top Starter motor Bolt and nut
Bellhousing Bolt inside starter motor
Slave Cylinder mounting bolts
alternator adjuster bolt

any help would be great as googling isn't working

Luke

 

Is this what you are looking for? https://rotaryresurrection.com/produ...-hardware-set/

I may also have the alternator adjuster bolt if you want to buy it.

 

So, would you say that the center console buttons etc are illuminated red or orange???

Im thinking they are red, and therefore im after gauges that switch between white / red. BUT red seems to be tricky to find and most will do white / orange

Maybe its my eyes….

Thanks

 

So I replaced my steering rack with a remanufactured one. The instructions stated that it was necessary to have a steering reset/centering procedure done before using the rack . My scan tool isn’t able to do this. Would it be ok just to leave the Torque Sensor connector unplugged for the short drive to the shop? My thinking is, if it isn’t powered it shouldn’t confuse the PS ECU or the main ECU and the rack itself will function without power.

 

A 'steering reset' is usually just the 'full left/full right/and repeat'....

Did you try that already?

 

Steering reset/centering is just turning the wheel all the way right and all the way left any time you disconnect the battery. Don't need a tool for it.

 

Ok maybe I am calling it the wrong thing. In the factory manual in the power steering section there is a procedure that calls for the power steering to be centered via the WCS when a new steering rack is installed. I am at work now so I can’t quote the pages, or honestly the the correct name for the procedure. I’m just trying to figure out if driving a new rack unpowered is going to mess things up.

When I get home I will post with more detail.

 

So I have looked it up in the manual. Page 23

https://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/RX8/8Steering.PDF

EPS System Neutral Position Setting

1. Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position. (Steering wheel is within 45°°°° to the left or right of
center position.)
2. Jack up both front tires so that there is no weight on them.
3. Lower the jack until the front tires touch the ground. At this time, be careful not to touch the tires or the
steering wheel.
4. Connect the WDS or equivalent to the DLC-2.
5. Set to neutral by selecting the TRQ_S_CAL active command mode function.
6. After setting to neutral, start the engine, rotate the steering wheel slowly in both directions within a
range of 90°°°° , and verify that the steering force does not differ in either directions.
• If the steering force is different in either direction, inspect the power steering system following a
separate troubleshooting procedure. (See NO.3 POWER ASSIST DIFFERS BETWEEN RIGHT
AND LEFT TURNS .)

So in this case I think we are making the initial center reference for EPS computer, with a new Steering Rack.

So my thought is if the Rack and the EPS ECU aren't connected I should be able to do a short drive over to my mechanic to do the alignment, and get
the neutral position set. What do you all think?

Again thanks for the help.

 

If you need to drive it to the dealers, having an unpowered rack is not a problem. Until you try to park!

 

That's what I thought, fortunately my guy has one of those drop off lanes... How they turn it around and get on their alignment rack... who knows.
Pretty sure I am paying for it though.

 

This definitely goes in the dumb question thread. I certainly feel stupid.

I'm replacing the coolant overflow. When I pulled the old one out to get at the bottom hose clamp, that hose popped off. Lost some coolant, not worried about that. When I went to grab the hose, I couldn't find it. I have the battery box and airbox out to have a cleaner view, simply don't see where that hose dropped to. Where does it connect to? I keep going back and looking, feel like it's impossible I can't see it somewhere.

 

There's a small nipple on the rad a bit inboard of the main outflow hose, it should connect there. That connection is VERY easy to break.