I did try that, and also tried using the key to open the trunk as i had previously seen suggested. No dice yet. I just have the relay for the turn signals unplugged for now until i can get it figured out. Horn thankfully is non-functional for now

 

Try, when the alarm goes off, open the driver door and get in, close the door, lock the doors and unlock them then open the door. I've had mine go off when using the key and this seemed to solve it, but I do have a key fob so not sure if lack of one is causing your problem or not.

 

Do you have the fob for your 04 or just the key?

 

I only have the key right now

 

Quick question - when the DSC is turned off how much of the system remains on? I know the annoying throttle cut stops which unsettles the car. Is the ABS turned off as well? At my first autocross weekend I didn’t notice any brake lockup with DDC off. Just want confirmation of my surmise that ABS is still working. Thanks

 

ABS is still on. It's a safety system, not part of DSC (though obviously sharing parts).
While you might not have had lockup, did you get the ABS pedal chatter? Entirely possible you were never at risk of locking up in the first place.

 

Never got to lockup point. I’m still below the limit of the car in my ability and I’m trying to approach it slowly. Tomorrow is a day at the track. Wednesday night a reminder to stay within limits was made by friend at a summer solstice rotary meet. He spun his FD RX7 into a curb trying to show a passenger his car. Thanks for confirming my assumption Loki.

 

I tracked my 07 RX8 many times, and could get at the limit without turning anything off.
Ya can't hang it out, but then, that's a little slower anyway.
Best day I had was when it was slick with summer ice, and I was about the only one who didn't slide off.
I had shortened the rear sway bar, and drivers rear lost traction, and I just knew I'd be in the ditch.
The traction control did it's work, and saved the car, since only the traction control can brake individual wheels.
I finally put on the B12 Bilstein shock and springs, and took OFF THE REAR swaybar.
Suspension finally works right, and I don't even track anymore.

 

This is a long story and I'm likely posting it in the wrong place but here goes. My brother's first car was an RX7 and he also drove an 8 for years. Therefore, when I was researching which engine to swap into my '67 MGB, a rotary caught my attention. 100lbs lighter and triple the hp. Just have to be careful to keep the rev's up to generate some torque. All went (fairly) well and the motor was installed. Strongly regret not reading the overheating advice available on this forum, as I decided yo "nurse it along". Big mistake as I know understand with a depth of pain I can't describe. So, I got to do my first rebuild. Very enjoyable and learned a lot and things were going great until I smelled an electrical fire. Turns out I chose my main fuse poorly. It had a set screw set up for the 80 amp mainline. That worked loose over the 3 years with the engine in the car and caused buggery with the alternator controls (Adaptronic ECU runs the whole show right now). I saw 17V at one point but elected to, again try to "nurse it along". I'm a slow learner. Eventually, the engine stalled and I called a tow truck. Not my first tow truck. I'm on a first name basis with a few drivers. Btw, for interesting stories, call a tow truck! But that is just the background that brings me to my sanity check.

So, I replaced the fuse with a proper one. She (her name is BB) fired up right away and the started missing. I was baffled. I took a day off work, hoping to get to track night at Mid Ohio but couldn't solve it. I brought in our electrical technician from work. He is a car whisperer...and had no ideas. So, I decided to start changing everything. I did coils, then wires, then plugs...and lo and behold, she runs fine! The old plugs were filled (literally filled like a tiny tea cup) with gas. I'm baffled for several reasons. These are 1k mile plugs. I also had a three mile drive with perfect combustion after cleaning the crankshaft sensor (based on advice from this site). But new plugs fixed it. But I'm baffled! How could I have driven 3 clean miles and the got "flooded" again? Also, in my experience, once a flooded engine starts, it burns off the excess gas and runs normally. This damn thing would run steadily like it was on one rotor and never clear the fuel. Then, with new plugs, she "cleared her thoriat" for about minute and has run super ever since. Is that flooding in a rotary? Does the fuel get trapped in the spark plug chamber and cause havoc? I'm baffled and doing a sanity check. Bring on the feedback!

 

Sounds like, for whatever reason, the rotor with the wet plugs stopped firing. You're right, flooding doesn't happen to a running engine unless ignition stops entirely, but it can happen on the next startup.

​​​​​​Maybe replacing the plugs also reseated the plug wires which may have worked loose before?

 

This Thread is pretty long dating back to 2010. So my question is, what is the SSV Solenoid? I've tried doing some searching and can't seem to find it. Just trying to learn some terminology here.

 

It's one of the electrical solenoid valves underneath the plastic intake manifold. It has a white plug going to it and the hose from it has a white spot on it . The SSV itself is the bottom mechanical valve that opens the secondary ports on the intake. It's adjacent to the thermostat housing.

 

Tpms sensor flickering. It’s always something. It came up the same day I replenished the tire air due to the cold weather. I scanned my 05 Rx8 with an ODB II reader and there are no codes. The tire wasn’t low in air. I replaced the Tpms sensor like 6-7 years ago.

 

I work in a tire shop and see this pretty commonly. The TPMS Sensor usually has a lifespan of 6 to 7 years. They usually start going out and is indicated by a flashing TPMS light. Usually doesn't start flashing until you hit about 60 for like 2 mins. Swapping those aren't too bad but that's really the only thing with TPMS sensors. just a short lifespan and sometimes expensive.

Heads up as the TPMS sensors need to be calibrated to the car so you will need a device to calibrate them or have a tire shop do it.

 

Hey, I am coming from driving 3s and speed3s. But I really love the sound and look of the rx8. Anything I should know before purchasing one? One of my biggest concerns is the reliability.

 

Start at this and read through many of the “sticky’s “ in the new owner section.

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...rs-read-first/

 

There's too much to say to offer a quick answer here. If you're willing to devote a lot of time and energy to learning, then by all means consider an RX-8. Tell us what you might be interested in doing with it (DD, weekend cruising, track days, projects, etc.), and what your sensitivities are about maintenance (budget, time consumption, etc.). Otherwise, wondering about it is probably better than finding out.

If you want to minimize the headache factor, be patient and hold out for a never-modified low-mile Series 2 car (model year 2009 and up). And when I say never-modified, I mean literally never. Not even intake/exhaust, or "upgrades" to the ignition or whatever. Nothing. Though, even with that kind of car, you'll want to assume (for planning purposes) that it'll need a new catalytic converter and/or engine every 80k-100k miles or so.

Previous model years will need more care and attention. Late Series 1 cars (say, '07 or '08) have a few more foibles than Series 2 cars, though they're generally okay. But most RX-8s you'll actually find for sale are from '04 and '05 – the earliest and most problematic model years. They tend to get passed around from owner to owner, often bought by people who had no idea what they were getting into, and sold as soon as they found out. These early cars can be just as rewarding to own and drive as any RX-8, but... let's just say they won't disappear into the background of your life.

If you value handling enough to trade basically everything else for it, but you still need serviceable back seats, there's really nothing comparable to the RX-8, and there probably never will be. That's why I bought my 2011 RX-8 R3, loved it so much, and would happily have kept it if life permitted.

If your taste in cars is less fringe than that – which it seems like yours is – you can most likely find something with a better cost/benefit ratio. Do yourself the favor of giving other cars a chance first. If you do that and still come back to the RX-8, you may be on to something.

You said what draws you to the RX-8 are the look and sound. You're not alone. But if those aspects are all you like about it, you'll need to LOVE them for the experience to be worthwhile.

 

Sup bros, please someone tell me I’m not screwed? Just had 05 Rx-8 with a little over 100k in mi looked at after getting the P0410 code. Anyone know the fix? A dude helped me out and said my engine is cooked more than likely due to low compresssion. I am praying this is a false positive. I heard the EGR valve needs to be cleaned, or it’s a fuse issue. Idk I am dropping mg it off a rotary mechanic this week. Any advice? Thanks in advanced.😭

 

This car doesn't have EGR. Is p0410 the only problem you have? That's just the secondary air pump. Replace it and you're probably good. Get a real compression test if you're worried. Immediately stop listening to whoever is telling you your engine is cooked based on that alone.

 

2009 Series 2 Auto AU delivered
How do I get bluetooth to work on my rx8 stereo? the option is there but is grayed out. I've tried unplugging the battery to reset everything but no change. Is there something I need to buy that makes it work?
Not buying an aftermarket system, too expensive and fascias are always ugly + I want to keep it original. I don't care for Carplay or android auto or whatever modern features new stuff offers. I just want to listen to my music without a stupid dongle or FM transmitter.

 

Ummm what? RX-8s didn't come with screens in any year. Or Bluetooth.

 

That is already an aftermarket unit in your RX-8.
its probable that the previous owner installed that but it does not have a bluetooth module. only way to get bluetooth would be to add one

 

Took apart the dash and it found it is Mazda genuine. There are similar style ones in the CX9 and mazda2. It might be a RHD sort of thing only as the only other market I've seen this on are the JDM and AUDM models.

 

Must be... The screen does show up in 2009 RX-8 Mazdaspeed press shots.. which must be from a mirror universe where Mazda actually shipped things like the below...

As for the radio, the part number partially matches various Mazdas up to 2015, so maybe you can try CX-9 or 2 or 3 forums for your question, and /or buy their bluetooth unit to retrofit in your car if it's missing?

 

ill look into it. cheers