Well - all four of our coils were white and had definitely been misfiring. A couple even had a little rust from where they fired through and it later got wet. Car starts up and runs great with the new coils in it. There were some placement challenges to fit in the new setup, but it seems great - and I came here to thank everyone - but now I see that some think white coils are okay - and maybe sometimes they are - but ours were NOT okay.

We had been told to never start the car and then shut it right off. So, if we have to move it somewhere on our property - swapping cars around, as we do, we generally put it outside and let it run a bit and then put it wherever it was going. Someone mentioned that it's not good for that car to let it run at idle. Can you please shed some light on this - as to why, and does that mean it IS okay to just start the car, move it really quickly and then shut it off? Somehow we have to be able to do one or the other :-)

Still want to thank everyone for their help and advice. We have had many years and many miles of Rotary Engine cars, but apparently the RX8's are a little different than the older cars we had, so we're clearly still learning.

 

Quick question, haven't found much about this. On mazmart there are two different coils, N3H1-18-100B9U which seems to be standard OEM coils and N3H1-18-100C which are still OEM coils but weren't available until 2012 on the Spirit R. The Version C are $30 cheaper, is there going to be any difference between the two other than price or are the Version C only available for Japanese cars?

 

Just got my car back
The fuel cap was changed
Nut Union
thread ring
gasket fuel pump
radiator
tank and sub sensor
mazda coolant
4 clips
jb coolant clip
came to $1400 after a $400 dolllar discount. I feel I was screwed. Tell me what you guys think please. Also this is another dumb follow up question but you think Mazda has a half a brain to start the car when sitting their shop for more than a week or two. It has been now I am afraid my engine might flood.

 

I'm the same way.
I believe the Grom unit will do what you want without changing it.
I think.

 

That's a lot of money, but doesn't sound too outrageous to me for the things that were done.
If you actually needed all of it is a different story.
I personally don't trust dealerships and if I couldn't do the work myself would try to find an independent shop with a good reputation.

 

Ditto on Grom adapter like BigCajun said. It gives you everything you want, while keeping the stock look. It just plugs into the back of your head unit. Check the audio forums for threads about the Grom adapter

By the way, I see your point. Even I like the clean look of the stock radio. An aftermarket system does look out of place.

 

From what I've read here on this forum, the C coils last a lot longer than B grade coils.

No idea about the Japanese only part. My car is a JDM domestic car and came with C coils. I've compared them with a set of B coils and they look the same to me. You should be fine with C grade coils

 

I have the complete IPD3 kit + Bluetooth. The only caution is it will only work on a specific range of our OEM radios firmware.

 

There was an assumption for a long time that C coils would last longer. It appears that they DO last longer, but not double the lifespan, more like 20% longer. For 100-130% higher cost.

I've gone back to largely ignoring what coil revision is in use. There isn't enough of a difference on a USDM ECU to bother quibbling.


Edit: Removed potentially errant info

 

I know there is a DIY for the transmission and rear differential oil but has anyone brought their car to the dealer for this? If so how much was it? I was told like $200 bucks. It seems very straight forward only one has to make sure they pump the right amount of oil in.

 

I have not done mine, but I'm pretty sure it's not worth paying $200 for anyone to do it.
We call them 'Stealerships' for a reason.

 

You know you can pick up the phone and call them on your own to get the most accurate answer, right?
I understand the intent of this thread, but you don't seem to do any of your own leg work/ research. Your car and wallet will only suffer for that.

 

Oh right. Didn't know exactly how much longer they last. This guy said they're $30 cheaper.

So what you're saying is, if a JDM car came with B grade coils, putting, for example, A grade coils would throw a CEL?

 

Edit: Removed potentially errant info

 

I'll have to disagree. We changed the coils in a JDM Series 2 car that came with B coils to A coils and no CELs showed up. Been 4 months now. Still no CEL.

 

Edit: Removed potentially errant info

 

There have been at least 4 cars I know of (all RX-8s over here are JDM domestic models) that had their coils changed and not one threw a CEL. Maybe it was that particular JDM car you checked? Or maybe the coils were messed up?

 

The issue for me would be what they put in for oil .....it should only take MAX 1 hour to do both tranny and diff oil replacements. I think the last time I did it on a hoist it took me 15 minutes for both.

For $200 you would be getting whatever they use for gear oil out of the bulk bin...

You would be better off buying yourself some Redline MT90 for the tranny and 75W-90 gear oil for the Diff and paying someone hour rate to do it if you can't do it yourself

 

This is the first I've heard of REV Y coils throwing a CEL on cars built when only REV X coils were available.

From a logic stand point this also doesn't make any sense to me since the coils have revisions, not outright redesigns.

Hell, we'd be throwing CELs for far more if that were the case... LSx and the mercury boat coils would be lighting up our dashboards like christmas tree.

 

Maybe I got it wrong. I'll delete those posts.

I've only seen references to it with JDM ECUs, never with USDM ECUs.

 

Wait. Say.... wut?

Revision Y? Revision X? I thought the latest was C

 

One example thread: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...2/coil-242048/

Again, I've only ever seen it talked about with JDM ECUs. Never with USDM.

Another post: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...8/#post4182108

 

basic substitution, dude

Context:

X = coil revision available when car was built / ECU flashed
Y = coil revision you're trying to use

 

wow, lots of linked posts in there, RIWWP. catching up now. please don't delete stuff just because it doesn't make sense to me... this site would be missing a ton of content were that the case.

 

Ok that's messed up. They've worked fine on 4 cars I know. They're not C coils, but they're different to what came stock on the cars. That said, they were not bought off eBay. Most were taken out from cars in Japan.

Maybe the C coils sold in Japan have different part numbers to the C coils sold in Japan? I could pull out my coils and check.

Oh, like that haha. Got it dude, thanks :P