Hey guys, quick question, looking at replacing the midpipe with the BHR one without catalyst and am aware that it will trigger a CEL, how will it affect performance / fuel ??? Will the engine compensate accordingly but with the light? what are the ramifications for driving it, let's say a year or so like that while I save up more money for Mazda Maniac's tuning program?

 

There are no drawbacks that I'm aware of with the BHR except for the CEL.
I've had mine for over 2 years, clear the periodic CEL with the Torque app on my Android phone.

 

Dumb question. Why does my car smell like coolant? No visible leaks. However, the coolant level seems drop about a millimeter every month... Possible? Normal? Could be my mind playing tricks on me...

 

Does anybody know the name of this body kit? I like the look but can't find any details.

 

Old fat fingers, bad eyes and small phone.

 

Try the Calling All Lightning Yellow thread, or the S1 Exterior Forum.

 

From my data logs, I have only seen an increase in fuel trims by +2.5% attributed to the post-cat O2 sensor's readings. I have not been able to find any concrete numbers for Mazda's vehicles, however, this number is very close to what is reported to be normal for vehicles produced by other manufacturers (Nissan and Honda specifically) when the catalytic converter is removed/not functional. This 2.5% increase does not produce a discernible change in fuel economy. No ramifications for driving with the CEL on beyond the possibility for it to mask other codes. This is easily solved by using a variety of different OBD2 readers like Torque/UltraGauge/etc. which allow you to (1) check and clear the codes at will, and (2) set alarms to alert you to any additional/new codes detected. Like many people here, I've had the persistent CEL from the midpipe for the last 3+ years.

 

I'm sure you meant pre-cat O2 sensor. Post-cat sensor doesn't change fuel trims, right?

 

Ill give it a shot

 

Sup fellow Rx8 fans, so some of you know whats going on with my car. Today I went to get an oil change, the car needed it but, the oil is still showing a milky residue on the dipstick. So I decided to buy some dye to put in my coolant reservoir, along with a new coolant cap. Just to check for leaks and assure proper pressure in the line. Also called Mazda and found out an estimate how much it would be for them to inspect it if I am still having this issue. Also replaced the fuel cap by which didnt know the engine light has to be cleared after installing. The new fuel cap does connect to the wire that connects to the fuel cap area. It doesnt connect but I look at it as a benefit cause it usually hangs out as I add some gas to the car and that can drip on the body paint. Will update you guys if I spot any leaks with the UV light. Although Mazda says this is condensation we cant rule out if it is a leak or not into the engine oil. Wish me luck.

 

I have a theory that a "******* HOT" post o2 will increase the fuel trims slightly on the series 2. When monitoring and watching during a drive, if the cat gets over 1500, I start to see it pop up fuel trims at idle. Over 1700 even more, and the highest I have seen is 1800 with no change in fuel trim from 1700. Now keep in mind other things can be doing that, but I do think they may be a failsafe in there to prevent the cat from melting the cars like on the reports and stuff.

 

So...I put the coolant dye in and I didnt take the car for a spin yet but just revved in the driveway. Noticed no leaks inside the engine bay but will also check it tomorrow with the UV light, also the engine and transmission dipsticks. I did notice some antifreeze leaking on the driver side under the car and maybe like under the air intake area. ??? Idk.

 

Help me out here. Are you worried about coolant leaks in general, coolant leaks inside the engine (bad coolant seal), or both? The dye will help with the former. The best way to diagnose the latter is to wait a couple thousand miles and send an oil sample to Blackstone labs. They can detect trace amounts of coolant in the oil in their analysis. Actually, it's a good idea to have them look at the oil anyway. It can tell you a lot about your engine in general. And it only costs $25 plus shipping.

The radiator drain plug is on the driver's side. The hoses are on the passenger's side. Check your drain plug for tightness. If that is tight, you may have a crack in the radiator somewhere. But, before you panic, I don't remember exactly where the heater hoses are routed.

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Thanks for replying. Yep I seen some people send their oil to Blackstone. The car did leak on the drivers side but...right uner the air intake. I will get those hose checked. I have to inspect it after driving it tomorrow. My the dye is much more able to be identified in the dark.(Ofcourse). Also I believe I saw antifreeze leaking to the drivers side in the front of the car where the radiator is.

This part




But no antifreeze on it just in that vicinity, closer to the front of the car corner near the headlight area. I have to get it checked out. I thought my coolant cap was bad but I think its fine cause I can get a tight lock, although if I keep turning it(forcing it) it will keep turning.(not my intention) I guess thats how they work. But I inspected the cap and it looks fine. We'll see how it goes my main concern right now is to not have coolant in my engine oil and vice versa. Also I want to eventually have Mazda check the ECU. New rotors and brake pads are in the distant future. A mechanic told me that when getting the oil change. This is getting expensive.

One more thing when the mechanic did the oil change, the oil leaked out dark = good. Not like a chocolate milk when coolant gets into the oil. So it may just be a loose coolant plug and condensation in the engine oil. Will find out soon. Fingers crossed lol.

 

i need to know if i can put an 08 6 port from a auto trans car in my 04 6 port manual tran. manual trans is staying just the engine being swapped

 

between the two motors you should have everything you need to do the swap.

 

ok great thats what i needed to know, is there a right up anywhere about this? Is it as simple as pull old engine out and put other one in?

 

Why has my car STILL not relearned its fuel trims? Idle has been bouncing a lot when coming to a stop. The car has only stalled once, but otherwise it will usually stutter around 750RPM, then find it. A fair few times now, it has gotten so low the battery light came on.

I know this is a byproduct of having the battery off (which was off when I did my SOHN adapter...a month and a half ago). Since then, I've put 4500 miles on it and it is still bouncing around. My morning routine has been to fire it up and let it come to temps, then proceed to work. The car starts perfectly fine, hot or cold.

I'll rule out the usual suspects of coils, plugs, and wires...those were done 10k ago. What I don't know is if premix has an impact on the idle (I've been doing 8oz. per fill up). Also, I have tried the numerous tricks I've found searching around that worked the previous time I had my battery off to clean the SSV (it took about a week and a half for idle to be back to normal again after that).

Anyone got any input? The only other new thing that I've done is the BHR midpipe and the Borla, and I figure the former would be more suspect than the latter.

 

Did you clean the MAF & ESS?

 

Did not clean the MAF yet. Easiest thing to do, but lets forget that one, me

So glad this thread exists for these moments

 

Please update us if that works or not.

 

There is no way a reset 4500 miles ago has anything to do with your current issue

Why would you rule out plugs coils and wires? It is the most likely problem...and coils and plugs can be defective when new or can fail after 5 minutes...or you may have a wiring problem. Do the diagnostics...start with the ignition....

I would pull the plugs and look at the trailing ones...they are the most important at idle. They likely will tell you a lot. Very often you will only notice a dead trailing coil by a crappy idle. The rest of the time it will run normally

 

Hey everyone, I really need some help please kinda worried. So the engine light came on this morning and I drove to work. After work I cruised into Autozone and had them put the reader on. Got this:

EVAP system leak detected (small leak)
EVAP system leak detected (very small leak)

I believe its related to the antifreeze. Thoughts?

 

Tighten your gas cap. You may need a new one. Look closely at the o-ring on the cap for tears or cuts.

 

Just bought a new one. I believe its not factory original its after market. I will tighten it though. Just called Auto Advance. They said its something I could take care of on the weekend. I am leaking coolant but I think in an appropriate spot. Even though there should be no leakage. I am going to check the UV dye tonight when the engine and all is cooled down. Also it helps to check at night better.