When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have some rattle in my passenger door mirror. Does anyone know how to remove it? I'm looking at the speakers on the inside and thinking I need to remove that first. But I can't seem to pull on it without feeling like something is about to break. Need to get inside the mirror housing to determine what is causing the rattle.
Video walk through by chance?
Search for install instructions for puddle light install. I have them around here somewhere. From memory I think you have to take the whole door panel off... Can't remember for sure as some of that was for wiring of the puddle lights themselves.
Sorry if I'm posting in the wrong place..
2004 RX8, 35K miles. We got it in 2011 w/18K miles
Has a very slight roughness at idle - that is not why I'm writing - that is miniscule.
All of a sudden it's just a little slow to start. Cranks strong and fine, and then it does start - on first crank, just noticing it is a little slower than normal.
Changed the plugs, the ones coming out were the NGK plugs, they looked TERRIBLE. I'll try to upload a pic if I can. New plugs (as per 2014 bulletin) maybe make it slightly better - so think something is still wrong, but not sure what. It's not mis-firing, it runs just fine and has plenty of power!
Looks to have had the recall for Battery, Starter and plugs - when we got it, the battery was new and the starter looks new, so have to assume plugs were changed at that time also - but not sure, we didn't have it then.
Thanks, in advance, for any thoughts on this. If I should be in another thread, please let me know.
Those were narley looking plugs man, have you changed out your plug wires?. I have a 2004 rx8 and it is slow a little because the stock starter is lacking at best. I always change out plugs, wires and coils at the same time. Did you change your coils?. The 2004 rx8 had bad coils from the factory, they short out on the back of the coil. search the site on coils, there are some threads on coils and DIY changing of the coils, it's pretty easy.
Thanks.. We have not changed the coils - not really suspecting them - but maybe we should. Did you buy the OEM Coils and Wires? Also read about using Chevy Coils, with a harness, as they have stronger spark and have heat sink for cooling - not sure if anyone's done that - or if we should. As far as the starter, we don't believe we have the original starter - looked new when we got the car, so we assumed it had that recall - as the battery was not original either. We are afraid that maybe poor compression/excessive oil consumption might have caused the plugs to get so bad. But we will definitely do the coils and wires - let me know which you recommend. They aren't cheap! Thanks for the prompt reply.
Sorry if I'm posting in the wrong place..
2004 RX8, 35K miles. We got it in 2011 w/18K miles
Has a very slight roughness at idle - that is not why I'm writing - that is miniscule.
All of a sudden it's just a little slow to start. Cranks strong and fine, and then it does start - on first crank, just noticing it is a little slower than normal.
Changed the plugs, the ones coming out were the NGK plugs, they looked TERRIBLE. I'll try to upload a pic if I can. New plugs (as per 2014 bulletin) maybe make it slightly better - so think something is still wrong, but not sure what. It's not mis-firing, it runs just fine and has plenty of power!
Looks to have had the recall for Battery, Starter and plugs - when we got it, the battery was new and the starter looks new, so have to assume plugs were changed at that time also - but not sure, we didn't have it then.
Thanks, in advance, for any thoughts on this. If I should be in another thread, please let me know.
USB3 with a 2011 RX8? Bro!
But seriously, that looks like a long period of idle somewhere. Did you buy it recently? Dealers give zero ***** so when it goes through the "auction" process it will be warmed up, started hot, turned off before cold, A/C ran, and free reved. All kind of bullshit.
Judging by those plugs it looks like it was once low on oil and got pretty toasty, and something is up with the coil setup. The are connections, so if someone knocked them loose while cleaning, a bump could dislodge them and make a problem for you. I would replace ASAP, but for right NOW, I would go plug and unplug with some of that grease from Autozone just to make sure they aren't getting knocked around.
My car had that happen where it was being pissy in traffic under 30 and fine >50. It turned out to be those assbitch roads in Houston knocking **** loose in the connection from the PCM TO the Coilpack, not the HT one.
Thanks.. We have not changed the coils - not really suspecting them - but maybe we should. Did you buy the OEM Coils and Wires? Also read about using Chevy Coils, with a harness, as they have stronger spark and have heat sink for cooling - not sure if anyone's done that - or if we should. As far as the starter, we don't believe we have the original starter - looked new when we got the car, so we assumed it had that recall - as the battery was not original either. We are afraid that maybe poor compression/excessive oil consumption might have caused the plugs to get so bad. But we will definitely do the coils and wires - let me know which you recommend. They aren't cheap! Thanks for the prompt reply.
The coils are wearable items on this car and often do not last more than 30K miles. One of mine stopped working at 18K miles.
Upgrading to D585 coils is a common mod. In theory, you can pay once and not have to worry about it again for the life of the car. BHR sells the best known and best regarded kit. I have the on my car and like them.
There is very solid information in this thread (all of which you should read). Specifically this post.
Where can I buy new ignition coils?
You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. These ARE OEM coils, just being sold to auto parts stores directly from the original manufacturer. This is common for virtually every OEM part for any car older than about 5 years old. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last. If you are having trouble getting other coil options where you live, or are wary about purchasing coils from other sources, then this is your cheapest option for coils straight out of the Mazda dealer parts network.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision, and it is unlikely that the dealer or techs will be able to tell you what coil revision you have. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Plugs
Always go with OEM plugs. The only reason to go with anything else is if you are turbocharged or supercharged, have researched ALL the options, and decide to go with something different. Even most FI setups use OEM plugs.
NGK brand, two each of:
RE9B-T <- (trailing / top plugs)
RE7C-L <- (leading / lower plugs)
You can get them from most vendors, Amazon, and autoparts stores easily. The price range is $18-$20 for each plug typically, $72-$80 + shipping total.
Note:
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play". There is a lot more on the subject to understand, so it would be to your benefit if you learned about the needs prior to making a purchase.
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 10-11-2015 at 07:44 AM.
But seriously, that looks like a long period of idle somewhere. Did you buy it recently? Dealers give zero ***** so when it goes through the "auction" process it will be warmed up, started hot, turned off before cold, A/C ran, and free reved. All kind of bullshit.
Judging by those plugs it looks like it was once low on oil and got pretty toasty, and something is up with the coil setup. The are connections, so if someone knocked them loose while cleaning, a bump could dislodge them and make a problem for you. I would replace ASAP, but for right NOW, I would go plug and unplug with some of that grease from Autozone just to make sure they aren't getting knocked around.
My car had that happen where it was being pissy in traffic under 30 and fine >50. It turned out to be those assbitch roads in Houston knocking **** loose in the connection from the PCM TO the Coilpack, not the HT one.
We bought from a private party - and the car did sit for probably most of 2 years. It's never run low on oil since we've had it, never. We've had it for 4 years and it's always started immediately - so this is just a slight, but noticeable change. It runs great still, has plenty of power, and just has a very slight roughness at idle. Sounds like we should change the coils and wires - wondering if anyone has used the Chevy coils. I can search the forum for that. Did you use OEM coils? Thanks a lot for all the info. Maybe just one is loose - will check that asap too.
[QUOTE=Steve Dallas;4721992]The coils are wearable items on this car and often do not last more than 30K miles. One of mine stopped working at 18K miles.
Upgrading to D585 coils is a common mod. In theory, you can pay once and not have to worry about it again for the life of the car. BHR sells the best known and best regarded kit. I have the on my car and like them.
There is very solid information in this thread (all of which you should read). Specifically this post.
Where can I buy new ignition coils?
You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. These ARE OEM coils, just being sold to auto parts stores directly from the original manufacturer. This is common for virtually every OEM part for any car older than about 5 years old. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last. If you are having trouble getting other coil options where you live, or are wary about purchasing coils from other sources, then this is your cheapest option for coils straight out of the Mazda dealer parts network.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision, and it is unlikely that the dealer or techs will be able to tell you what coil revision you have. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Plugs
Always go with OEM plugs. The only reason to go with anything else is if you are turbocharged or supercharged, have researched ALL the options, and decide to go with something different. Even most FI setups use OEM plugs.
The BHR coils should last the lifetime of your car. They are a proven product and give a slight bump in performance and mpg. Charles of BHR is an RX8club member and trusted vendor.
The BHR coils should last the lifetime of your car. They are a proven product and give a slight bump in performance and mpg. Charles of BHR is an RX8club member and trusted vendor.
Definitely going to go with the BHR Coils and Wires - and we already did the suggested plugs.. Thank you ALL so very much for your prompt and helpful replies. You are always here for me and it's much appreciated.
Thanks.. We have not changed the coils - not really suspecting them - but maybe we should. Did you buy the OEM Coils and Wires? Also read about using Chevy Coils, with a harness, as they have stronger spark and have heat sink for cooling - not sure if anyone's done that - or if we should. As far as the starter, we don't believe we have the original starter - looked new when we got the car, so we assumed it had that recall - as the battery was not original either. We are afraid that maybe poor compression/excessive oil consumption might have caused the plugs to get so bad. But we will definitely do the coils and wires - let me know which you recommend. They aren't cheap! Thanks for the prompt reply.
I went with BHR on the coils and so far 10,000 miles on them no issues. Except my always slow starter, guess i have to bite the bullit and buy the up grade starter. I shouldn't whine i got almost 100,000 miles on the original starter and it's still working.
I went with BHR on the coils and so far 10,000 miles on them no issues. Except my always slow starter, guess i have to bite the bullit and buy the up grade starter. I shouldn't whine i got almost 100,000 miles on the original starter and it's still working.
Good to know - seems everyone is going that route and happy with it.. I am "hoping" that we already had the upgraded starter - as it was a recall from before we got the car.. It's never been slow until now- and it's really just a "little" slow - but it's good since it got us to look at the plugs, and see that we need to be getting the coils swapped out as well. Hopefully that will fix our "slow" starter - but as long as it starts, I'm good with that.. You have had good luck with your car - is that your original engine?
Do the series II cooling fans blow inward and outward?
There is 2 points on the motor in the schematic and there is a pair of relays for Fan 1 and 2, but separate relays (1 each) for the second line running to the motor. ( I think medium puts both fans on in series.... (relay number 2? with 2 poles)
So my question is, is one forward and one backward?
Dumb question but how long does it take Mazda USA website to put up new service coupons? Anyone has in the past monitor this or knows? Here we are mid October and no coupons. Whats with their stall?
^No. There is a plastic liner that provides protection for anything significant on that side of the engine. Unless you're REALLY REALLY trying, you won't get water anywhere that a drive in the rain wouldn't also get it.
Not my picture:
This probably belongs here....
I'm old and not very audio-savy, but is there any company out there that could retro-equip an old OEM car head-unit to handle blue-tooth, USB, MP3? Understanding that even if possible this wouldn't be the least-expensive way to go, but I prefer the look of the OEM double-din AM/FM and CD player in my old car. To my eye all the modern units look out of place and can't quite match the rest of the dash back-lighting.
We bought from a private party - and the car did sit for probably most of 2 years. It's never run low on oil since we've had it, never. We've had it for 4 years and it's always started immediately - so this is just a slight, but noticeable change. It runs great still, has plenty of power, and just has a very slight roughness at idle. Sounds like we should change the coils and wires - wondering if anyone has used the Chevy coils. I can search the forum for that. Did you use OEM coils? Thanks a lot for all the info. Maybe just one is loose - will check that asap too.
I am not pointing fingers, but it may have been started and idled to keep the battery charged. Many people don't know not to do that. That could explain the plugs too. If that is the case, it just needs some premix and a hard drive with a safe cooldown.
I thought about the Type C coils, but I disagree with the mounting location of the coils, so I relocated the battery and went with RaceRoots. I recommend BHR only because they are a bit more plug and play, but there is nothing wrong with the RaceRoots.
Mine did have the white point of death, but some people say that is a hoax. Mine were from failure, not from Mazda's random TSP about how it isn't always bad. This also made me want to relocate them to keep them from random discharge. Mine are in the battery tray surrounded by plastic and 1 extra ground.
Your sure about this right? The logic in the PCM only uses one of the relays at 0mph, and why is there 4 contact points on the motor.
Not trying to be a dick, but I think the setup is ******* weird to have 2 redundant relays.
Haha nah man it's cool I don't know about the relays, but a few weeks back I had the car up on a lift. While I was underneath it with the fans on, I put my hand between the engine and the fans to feel the wind pressure and, yep, they blow air inwards towards the engine bay.
One fan blowing air outwards would overheat the car, as the fan blowing outwards is sucking the hot air blown inwards from the other fan, and sending that hot air through the radiator again. I've never seen a car with fans that blow outwards. That's just weird haha.
0mph? My fans stay on when I'm moving slowly. I think it stays on till about 5mph. Do you have the exact speed when the fans turn off? Would love to know!
^No. There is a plastic liner that provides protection for anything significant on that side of the engine. Unless you're REALLY REALLY trying, you won't get water anywhere that a drive in the rain wouldn't also get it.
Not my picture:
You mean that little flap that covers it? It's just dangling there with 2 clips. Is that enough to protect the plugs from a pressure gun? :O
I am not pointing fingers, but it may have been started and idled to keep the battery charged. Many people don't know not to do that. That could explain the plugs too. If that is the case, it just needs some premix and a hard drive with a safe cooldown.
I thought about the Type C coils, but I disagree with the mounting location of the coils, so I relocated the battery and went with RaceRoots. I recommend BHR only because they are a bit more plug and play, but there is nothing wrong with the RaceRoots.
Mine did have the white point of death, but some people say that is a hoax. Mine were from failure, not from Mazda's random TSP about how it isn't always bad. This also made me want to relocate them to keep them from random discharge. Mine are in the battery tray surrounded by plastic and 1 extra ground.
The white spots on the coils doesn't mean anything. I've seen plenty of healthy coils over here with white spots. And I live in a hot climate. The only way to tell is to test the coils according to the FSM.
10-10-2015, 11:08 AM
I don't know about the relays, but a few weeks back I had the car up on a lift. While I was underneath it with the fans on, I put my hand between the engine and the fans to feel the wind pressure and, yep, they blow air inwards towards the engine bay. 