Just got my car back from the dealership, This is SO strange. I have no idea why the car is doing this but anyhow, when I get gas and I try to start the car its a lagging with a crank. Now the dealer just put new plugs coils and wires. One was rusty/burnt. Like a year and a half since changed. The tires are 225/48/18W I believe that was the measurement. I dont have a chance to jack it up yet, trying to get it on a lift soon. But I asked Mazda and "they said" they felt no play in the wheels. They feel its something else with the rear. I was just in the car and decided to test the steering. So I turned it all the way to the left and all the way to the right. I hear something that sounds semi unnatural. By the way the e-brake was up and it sounded like a rubbing sound idk. The car started fine but I dont know why EVERY time I get gas I have that issue where its a little hard to start. Thoughts? And should I be hearing anything while turning the steering wheel? The gears for the front wheels, cause the tires have to turn, right?

Could it be the purge valve?

 

If you have warm start issues with new ignition then compression is a good place to start.

If you have an old starter sometimes the upgraded one ( $200ish) from Amazon will help short term as it is a lot faster than the older stock one

There will be scrubbing noises from the tires when turning lock to lock in the front.

Hard to tell what your issue is...internet diagnosis of suspension noises is very difficult. They are hard enough in person

If your purge valve is acting up you will get a CEL...it is one of the systems that OBD2 monitors very strictly

There often is a passenger side rear suspension noise in these cars...I have one in mine and have never gotten it to go away completely. In my case it isn't that annoying and I have so many other noises I hardly notice it any more

 

Firstly thanks a bunch for the responses. I meant to say I have a new starter. The car runs somewhat better with the new plugs, coils and wires. Although I am going back to the dealer on Monday. To see if they can check the Purge valve. Alot of people online had this issue with other cars and it totally fixed the issue. Plus I heard it could lead to engine flooding. I had Mazda check the car with their computer but I didnt mention the purge valve. Maybe they could test the ohm's? They said they got the engine light to flash, hence why they changed the plugs,coils and wires but who knows if they really got it from the purge valve? Also I think I heard him say they cleared the code. P0300. However I know the purge valve is P0456.

 

Is there any connection with the purge valve and the a/c?

I have a hunch the purge valve may be fine, its the ecm that may be not communicating properly with it. Also I noticed that when I turn on my car cold first in the morning and pop the hood, I hear this sound like when one tries to turn off a computer by holding the button on the tower. Anyone know what I mean? Like when the light turns from green to amber that sound.

 

Updates: Sup bros, this is a dark day. I just got back from the Mazda dealership. It wasnt the ecm or the purge valve. Based on "their" testing. However they are doing a cold compression test soon to confirm the problem but they feel on of the engine's apex seals are going bad. I was so crushed to hear that. If ANYONE has any idea what else it could be PLEASE let me know. Much appreciated! The symptoms are it cranks after I get gas and when its hot(less now that I just had the plugs the coils and the wires changed.) It has a new starter and fuel pump. It honestly breaks my heart to give it up esp now when money is a BIG problem for me but if it has to be it has to be. Hope everyone is having a Happy New Year.

 

Alright so this is probably a really dumb question, but it is a different type of engine and i just want to make sure.

Is it alright to add additives like fuel injector cleaner and what not into the fuel tank? I do premix a little with 2 stroke oil, just to make sure i can lubricate the seals as much as possible, and i cant think of a reason why injector cleaner could hurt, but i just want to make sure

 

Anything commonly added to piston engine fuel will be fine with a rotary.

...that Lucas Upper Cylinder Lube is one of my favorites - mostly polyisobutylene, a clean burning super-slippery synthetic 'oil' component.

 

I want to change my coilovers to a simpler Bilstein shock and spring set for regular street use and 0 track time and maintain the stock height of the car. Im thinking of going for the Bilstein B6 HD shock set but im confused which springs to go with them. Any suggestions?

 

Today my car had trouble starting in the cold cold weather. The battery is less than a year old. Any other ideas besides, the engine, the starter, the fuel pump, the pcm, the fuses, the catalytic converter, fuel injectors, solenoids and engine temp sensor?

All those were addressed by the dealership. Well...the car still needs a COLD compression test, soon but what could cause a slow start with the car in super cold weather. Like 1 degree outside? Thanks

 

My '04 had some trouble starting lately (motor recently rebuilt, new ignition components, new starter) and one item I noticed needed attention were the battery clamps. I've been cleaning them, but they were corroded and difficult to clamp from years of constant loosening and tightening. I installed new battery clamps and noticed a significant difference in the way it starts.
Its also good to clean the terminals at the starter too. Those easily become corroded and could cause issues.

 

Just checked out my battery clamps. They are brown but I'd say fairly clean. My mechanic last year put a protective red coating on top to prevent rusting. I must get them checked out though. I went through a few batteries over the years. I do charge my phone in the charger at times but I dont think it should drain it like it has been. Maybe there is something there.

 

Think I paid $7 at Autozone for new clamps and the install is fairly easy.
If you don't have a good electrical connection, it will require more current to overcome a dirty connection.
It will also limit the amount of current charging the battery.
Not saying this is your problem, but $7 for new clamps and piece of mind isn't bad.
Its also good to do anyway as preventative maintenance if they haven't been replaced in a long time (or not at all).

And don't forget about the terminals at the end of the wires going to the starter.
I've actually had that cause starting issues with another RX8.
Just use a wire brush to clean them (and don't forget to disconnect the battery before cleaning those!)

 

Update we checked the clamps, they are ok. Nothing to be concerned about.

 

So, I've been learning about the RX8 I was wondering if there is different sizes of rotary mortars that could be put in one.

 

Mortars? You mean motors haha. Yeah you can drop the engine from an RX-7. You can even drop a 3 rotor. Really expensive though.

 

You can strap a rocket propulsion engine to an rx8, if your pockets are deep enough.
The key is to use this forum to your advantage and do as much research as possible, then go to other sources for the remainder of that info and make a decision what works best.
Should you still require info, feel free to start a thread about it. But don't expect anyone to take your hand and walk you through the process. Unless you want to pay that person...

 

There are very many different swap threads here with a dedicated forum just for those.

 

Rx8 SOLDIER, I WASN'T WANTING ANYONE TO HOLD MY HAND. I was simply asking a question. I figured someone in this group might have put a turbo in their car. I would always do my research before doing anything to my car. I wouldn't just take someone's advice without checking into it. As I had said I figured I would get opinions on the matter first.

 

lol whos making the popcorn.

there is a swap section as bc said and major hp threads too. turbo/sc/no2

 

No need for popcorn, only reason I posted it here was cause of the title of group, but whatever. But apparently the title is wrong

 

roberta, this is the internet. Please don't take offense. It's difficult to interpret text as emotion.

My post was just to advise you to do your research prior to commiting to an engine swap. We've seen it all over the past 10+ years that the rx8 has been available. We don't know anything about you, other than the fact you're wanting info on other engines. We jump to conclusions because as I said, we've seen it before. MANY times...

Anyways, continue to read up on the engine swap. Enjoy the car, read the new owners threads, read the turbo threads, read ALL threads which apply to you and your goals for the car. Should you have further questions, feel free to post them. Just be warned that if the question you ask could be answered by a simple search, then you'll most likely get razzed by the majority.

Good luck

 

I really didn't take offence to what you said I was looking for opinions on how well or if it's even worth putting a turbo in my car. Maybe I could of worded differently, as far as wanting to know different sizes that was just me being curious on how different sizes there are out there. Sorry if I took it wrong, I have in the past gotten a lot of **** for being a women who is able to work on my own car. Now that being said have a nice day. I will check in to the other groups as well

 

Ok I can tell this one is getting a bit edgy, so I do have a simple question. Did you mean Motor's and it was a typo, or is there another term for a part of the engine?

....the only reason I logged is to know, not to start a fight.

 

It was a typo, that's all.

 

Oh, we had a mild december here but still around 8-10 degrees celsius so your explanation makes sense to me About the shaking... well you can certainly see the gear **** shake and it is felt throughout the body. I cleaned the MAF tonight and then warmed up the engine to see if it would settle in a different position. It sort of did, looks like 850rpm which is a tad higher than I'm used to seeing. Unfortunately not the 1k rpm grand difference that some youtubers seem to get after cleaning :/ But again lurking around threads here 850 seems very normal. Hope it holds, as at least it shakes less.

Thanks for believing in my engine Though unfortunately the test now revealed 740kPa on one rotor and 680kPa on the other while testing at 300 rpm, and it seems by the technical papers from Mazda to be a tad low. The workshop also commented that it was a tad low but not the lowest they had seen and seemed relaxed (more than me ) by the fact that there are no startup issues while hot.

I don't know really though with these values if I could sort of "expect" to get issues at x amount of miles in the future. Maybe it's just useless worrying? I mean, the car works and gets me from A to B with no real hiccups and a grin on my face

To both of you, thanks for the replies!