Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
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So I encountered an issue today by which I was coasting in Neutral due to the fact that I was about to come to a stop behind traffic. However the traffic began moving again before the car came to a complete stop. With this while the car was slowly rolling in Neutral, I changed the gear back to Drive and this is where I (lost power). The engine appeared to have cut off but the ignition was still on. I had no response from the throttle. I pulled on the shoulder, switched the ignition off then back on and the car was back to normal. Any ideas as to what caused this? Thanks (2009 rx8 automatic)
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Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
So I encountered an issue today by which I was coasting in Neutral due to the fact that I was about to come to a stop behind traffic. However the traffic began moving again before the car came to a complete stop. With this while the car was slowly rolling in Neutral, I changed the gear back to Drive and this is where I (lost power). The engine appeared to have cut off but the ignition was still on. I had no response from the throttle. I pulled on the shoulder, switched the ignition off then back on and the car was back to normal. Any ideas as to what caused this? Thanks (2009 rx8 automatic)
2/Either your engine needs maintenance (coils leads,plugs) or is low on compression.
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Everything is good with the engine..no starting issues..rough idling or anything..I was told that When the car engages a larger gear there is too much load and it will cut of. If i had given it a little gas it wouldn't have stalled. I was told to check my throttle body Air, intake filler and maf sensor. Maybe they need cleaning.
It could be a lot of things.
Symptom Troubleshooting:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar..._S01_0002.html
Symptom Troubleshooting:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar..._S01_0002.html
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Important Notes on the Battery....
Duralast is a reman/recycled battery. This is NOT a huge thing, but it is worth noting that is is not 100% pure virgin lead. Odessey is one of the only battery companies I know that use the Virgin Lead, and that is why they are more expensive, but you can push their **** HARD.
Duralast has the benefit of being a Autozone brand and you can go to an Autozone and exchange it without a serious isue.
35 is the important number. That means a Group 35 Battery which is correct for the RX8. My car came with a 26 which lead to issues with the electrical system till I went to the correct battery (3 days....).
Typically you want a Group 35-AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) with Flat Plates (More surface area so better in colder starts)
My guess is that, that battery is not a AGM or a FP battery, but that isn't the end of the world. I believe 800 is for CCA if it indeed does 800 (not just a pass or fail number), but that means it is very important that the battery is 12.7 when you start. You don't have the benefit of a AGM/FP on your side, so you need to make sure that Alternator and charging system is working like it should and that it is leaving that battery at 12.5-13.1 at the end of a drive. (should settle at around 12.5-12.7....)
If something is off there, I would look into the battery and have it tested just in case. Any honest salesman will tell you, its by volume and incentive, not by quality over quantity when it comes to parts dealers... (IE factory incentives and better price margins means it makes it into the store, which usually means, inferior to the top of the market items that has low profit, so a store won't carry them)
Also any time you pull the terminals expect a rich mixture since the PCM needs calibration. Put it away hard and wet to prevent a flooding issue. 3-5K RPM quick burst, then hold 3k then kill it hot. It is a thing you just have to learn for your car. If your cat is going you can get a better feel for it because you can smell the damn gas.....(that is my trick...., also POPOPOPOPOPOPOPOPIOP coming from the tailpipe)
Duralast is a reman/recycled battery. This is NOT a huge thing, but it is worth noting that is is not 100% pure virgin lead. Odessey is one of the only battery companies I know that use the Virgin Lead, and that is why they are more expensive, but you can push their **** HARD.
Duralast has the benefit of being a Autozone brand and you can go to an Autozone and exchange it without a serious isue.
35 is the important number. That means a Group 35 Battery which is correct for the RX8. My car came with a 26 which lead to issues with the electrical system till I went to the correct battery (3 days....).
Typically you want a Group 35-AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) with Flat Plates (More surface area so better in colder starts)
My guess is that, that battery is not a AGM or a FP battery, but that isn't the end of the world. I believe 800 is for CCA if it indeed does 800 (not just a pass or fail number), but that means it is very important that the battery is 12.7 when you start. You don't have the benefit of a AGM/FP on your side, so you need to make sure that Alternator and charging system is working like it should and that it is leaving that battery at 12.5-13.1 at the end of a drive. (should settle at around 12.5-12.7....)
If something is off there, I would look into the battery and have it tested just in case. Any honest salesman will tell you, its by volume and incentive, not by quality over quantity when it comes to parts dealers... (IE factory incentives and better price margins means it makes it into the store, which usually means, inferior to the top of the market items that has low profit, so a store won't carry them)
Also any time you pull the terminals expect a rich mixture since the PCM needs calibration. Put it away hard and wet to prevent a flooding issue. 3-5K RPM quick burst, then hold 3k then kill it hot. It is a thing you just have to learn for your car. If your cat is going you can get a better feel for it because you can smell the damn gas.....(that is my trick...., also POPOPOPOPOPOPOPOPIOP coming from the tailpipe)
Last edited by mazdafan1892; Feb 21, 2016 at 04:27 AM.
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OMG just took out the battery to have it tested, no one will know what I just went through. I lost a bolt and washer. I had to go to a hardware store and got the wrong size. Bought a universal clamp set at Autozone and put the battery back though the bracket is loose. I'll ask my mechanic to help me with it tomorrow. But I am really worried cause the DSC light on the dash is flashing and the Stability control is off. But...my car sounds more powerful now and a little better starting. Although the weather is alot warmer and the seat warmers are still less than mediocore from when I first used them. Oh and more Heat is coming out of the vents like more powerfully. Idk...is it possible that the battery wasnt on tight enough to the clamps? I made sure they were really tight with a hand wrench and some elbow grease. Oh btw bad influence Autozone hooked up the battery to the thing and it read good. I hope its easy for my mechanic to turn on the DSC and stability control. PLease reply.
EDIT:I fixed the DSC and Stabilty control. Now its only the bracket on the battery. I dont know how or where the bottom clips lach onto to make it tight. The car starts better. Again that could be from so many things. I would like a compression test IF it continues to start this well but I bet soon it goes back to the same old way.
EDIT:I fixed the DSC and Stabilty control. Now its only the bracket on the battery. I dont know how or where the bottom clips lach onto to make it tight. The car starts better. Again that could be from so many things. I would like a compression test IF it continues to start this well but I bet soon it goes back to the same old way.
Last edited by mazdafan1892; Feb 21, 2016 at 11:48 AM.
You didn't fix the DSC light. When you unhook the battery, it triggers, but will reset itself after a drive cycle.
The new battery won't solve your issues. Go get the compression tested.
And quit using this thread as your personal whining forum. You've been given plenty of advice, but you don't follow it. The members here can't help you if you can't help yourself. I've avoided responding to your stupid questions, but you really need to start figuring this out. Read the advice that's been given, make a checklist and check off as you troubleshoot. Coming back here every week whining about the same issue is getting annoying, and you've abused the dumb questions thread enough. Your dumb question was answered many months ago.
Make your own thread and start with THE EXACT STEPS YOU HAVE TAKEN to resolve your issue. Compile your symptoms in one spot, so that members don't give you advice that's already been given and you've either investigated or not. You're the cause of your own failures here.
The new battery won't solve your issues. Go get the compression tested.
And quit using this thread as your personal whining forum. You've been given plenty of advice, but you don't follow it. The members here can't help you if you can't help yourself. I've avoided responding to your stupid questions, but you really need to start figuring this out. Read the advice that's been given, make a checklist and check off as you troubleshoot. Coming back here every week whining about the same issue is getting annoying, and you've abused the dumb questions thread enough. Your dumb question was answered many months ago.
Make your own thread and start with THE EXACT STEPS YOU HAVE TAKEN to resolve your issue. Compile your symptoms in one spot, so that members don't give you advice that's already been given and you've either investigated or not. You're the cause of your own failures here.
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Joined: Dec 2014
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You didn't fix the DSC light. When you unhook the battery, it triggers, but will reset itself after a drive cycle.
The new battery won't solve your issues. Go get the compression tested.
And quit using this thread as your personal whining forum. You've been given plenty of advice, but you don't follow it. The members here can't help you if you can't help yourself. I've avoided responding to your stupid questions, but you really need to start figuring this out. Read the advice that's been given, make a checklist and check off as you troubleshoot. Coming back here every week whining about the same issue is getting annoying, and you've abused the dumb questions thread enough. Your dumb question was answered many months ago.
Make your own thread and start with THE EXACT STEPS YOU HAVE TAKEN to resolve your issue. Compile your symptoms in one spot, so that members don't give you advice that's already been given and you've either investigated or not. You're the cause of your own failures here.
The new battery won't solve your issues. Go get the compression tested.
And quit using this thread as your personal whining forum. You've been given plenty of advice, but you don't follow it. The members here can't help you if you can't help yourself. I've avoided responding to your stupid questions, but you really need to start figuring this out. Read the advice that's been given, make a checklist and check off as you troubleshoot. Coming back here every week whining about the same issue is getting annoying, and you've abused the dumb questions thread enough. Your dumb question was answered many months ago.
Make your own thread and start with THE EXACT STEPS YOU HAVE TAKEN to resolve your issue. Compile your symptoms in one spot, so that members don't give you advice that's already been given and you've either investigated or not. You're the cause of your own failures here.
Excuse me but I am not whining, I am explaining issues. I think I have been doing pretty good. I do, do homework. And you act as if I am sitting on my *** doing NOTHING. Which is anything but the truth. I have spend a ton of time on my car, researching, reading, hands on working. I spent lots of time freaking just locating parts that seem obvious to others. I am not a mechanic by the way. I dont care if you consider me whatever, I know I try. Dont assume what you dont know. Oh and it doesnt take much to be nice to people. From the beginning of this thread they mention this is a non-sarcastic thread. Everyone who has been nice and helpful I usually give them likes and say thank you. So to say I am taking advantage, whining or looking for someone to do everything while I do nothing is just not true.
You will likely get much better help if you start a thread where you can get more follow through. The reality of this thread is that is getting used a lot for things that aren't stupid questions....and we miss stuff in here that can't be resolved in one or 2 comments
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Does anybody know if the transmission input shaft bearing can be replaced without cracking the trans open? Not sure if the input shaft can just be pulled out or what, but I would like to replace it while my motor is out, if possible..
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looking for conformation? what do you guys think?
Bought rx8 ran like **** so i did tune up. They were running it on 2 coils for god knows how long. Replaced coils plugs. Never seen so much soot and smoke out the tailpipe in my life so i gave her an hour or some redline driving to sort her out. She was doing alot better so i decide to call it day. Shut her off now she wont start hot or cold. She acts like she wants to almost does realy then its like the rotor hits a brick wall. Jerks the car right then left. My guess is cat is completely clogged and not letting the exhaust fumes out fast enough so the back pressure kills the engine. Saw the diy cat to straight pipe am doing this tomorrow unless anyone else has any ideas.
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From: Midwest
You didn't fix the DSC light. When you unhook the battery, it triggers, but will reset itself after a drive cycle.
The new battery won't solve your issues. Go get the compression tested.
And quit using this thread as your personal whining forum. You've been given plenty of advice, but you don't follow it. The members here can't help you if you can't help yourself. I've avoided responding to your stupid questions, but you really need to start figuring this out. Read the advice that's been given, make a checklist and check off as you troubleshoot. Coming back here every week whining about the same issue is getting annoying, and you've abused the dumb questions thread enough. Your dumb question was answered many months ago.
Make your own thread and start with THE EXACT STEPS YOU HAVE TAKEN to resolve your issue. Compile your symptoms in one spot, so that members don't give you advice that's already been given and you've either investigated or not. You're the cause of your own failures here.
The new battery won't solve your issues. Go get the compression tested.
And quit using this thread as your personal whining forum. You've been given plenty of advice, but you don't follow it. The members here can't help you if you can't help yourself. I've avoided responding to your stupid questions, but you really need to start figuring this out. Read the advice that's been given, make a checklist and check off as you troubleshoot. Coming back here every week whining about the same issue is getting annoying, and you've abused the dumb questions thread enough. Your dumb question was answered many months ago.
Make your own thread and start with THE EXACT STEPS YOU HAVE TAKEN to resolve your issue. Compile your symptoms in one spot, so that members don't give you advice that's already been given and you've either investigated or not. You're the cause of your own failures here.
Too old for PC
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 251
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From: Midwest
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From: Georgetown
Does the OMP system inject more oil than usual into the engine during very cold starts?
Been quite cold here in my part of Canada lately and my 2005 is a daily driver so I've had repeated very cold starts at temperatures from -5 to -20 Celsius.
I've noticed much more oil usage during this period and have had to top up the oil more often than usual.
Been quite cold here in my part of Canada lately and my 2005 is a daily driver so I've had repeated very cold starts at temperatures from -5 to -20 Celsius.
I've noticed much more oil usage during this period and have had to top up the oil more often than usual.
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Another dumb question
I have 2005 Shinka with 67,000 miles. As we live in the Chicago area, and the winters are pretty rough with ice and road salt, I keep my car on a battery tender and unused for nearly half the year. On a sunny day I will take it out for a run. I did this last week, after the car had been sitting for about six weeks. It started up fine, had great acceleration in lower gears, however when I got it onto the interstate I hit the gas and it was sluggish and unresponsive. As I drove, it got better. My question (please be gentle I am NOT mechanically minded) is - could the gas that had been sitting in it have caused this problem? Should I use some fuel additives, or just drive the heck out of it for a bit? Thank you.
I have 2005 Shinka with 67,000 miles. As we live in the Chicago area, and the winters are pretty rough with ice and road salt, I keep my car on a battery tender and unused for nearly half the year. On a sunny day I will take it out for a run. I did this last week, after the car had been sitting for about six weeks. It started up fine, had great acceleration in lower gears, however when I got it onto the interstate I hit the gas and it was sluggish and unresponsive. As I drove, it got better. My question (please be gentle I am NOT mechanically minded) is - could the gas that had been sitting in it have caused this problem? Should I use some fuel additives, or just drive the heck out of it for a bit? Thank you.
Is it a full tank?
Did you get any CELs when you tried to go fast?
You might want to get the OBD scanned for any stored or pending codes.
Octane boost additives are useless.
Try to get it down to a 1/4 tank and add some Techron injector cleaner with some fresh premium gas and cruise around town for a while, see what happens.
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From: Georgetown
I have 2005 Shinka with 67,000 miles. As we live in the Chicago area, and the winters are pretty rough with ice and road salt, I keep my car on a battery tender and unused for nearly half the year. On a sunny day I will take it out for a run. I did this last week, after the car had been sitting for about six weeks. It started up fine, had great acceleration in lower gears, however when I got it onto the interstate I hit the gas and it was sluggish and unresponsive. As I drove, it got better. My question (please be gentle I am NOT mechanically minded) is - could the gas that had been sitting in it have caused this problem? Should I use some fuel additives, or just drive the heck out of it for a bit? Thank you.
Too old for PC
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 251
Likes: 4
From: Midwest
nanwagner,
Despite hype and marketing suggesting otherwise, I've never seen gas "go bad" in 6 months. And I park my car every winter from about Thanksgiving to Easter. That said, a bottle of Stabil doesn't cost a lot if you think of it before storing the car with a full tank of gas.
The Chevon Techron fuel system/injector cleaner isn't a bad idea if the injectors got a little sticky. But I doubt it just started with just a few weeks sitting. If you feel flush, the BG stuff I think is better. Cleaning the MAF sensor, toss in a new air filter if it's been a while, and new plugs might also be in order. Personally if it starts normally and you have no CELs then I'd just put a few miles on when the weather breaks this spring and see how it goes.
Despite hype and marketing suggesting otherwise, I've never seen gas "go bad" in 6 months. And I park my car every winter from about Thanksgiving to Easter. That said, a bottle of Stabil doesn't cost a lot if you think of it before storing the car with a full tank of gas.
The Chevon Techron fuel system/injector cleaner isn't a bad idea if the injectors got a little sticky. But I doubt it just started with just a few weeks sitting. If you feel flush, the BG stuff I think is better. Cleaning the MAF sensor, toss in a new air filter if it's been a while, and new plugs might also be in order. Personally if it starts normally and you have no CELs then I'd just put a few miles on when the weather breaks this spring and see how it goes.
Last edited by Signal 2; Feb 27, 2016 at 04:05 PM.